Day escapes from Cuenca

While in Cuenca we felt the need to escape the exhaust-filled air. 

Our first adventure was to Baños-Cuenca to the aguas termales (thermal baths). We hopped on to to a number 12 bus for 25¢ each and out of the stinky air we went. Baños-Cuenca is only about 5k out of the city, but the bus journey took about half an hour with all the stops. (When getting the number 12 bus be sure one if it's destinations is Baños. There are large white placards in the front bus window with the major stops. Claude made the mistake of taking the wrong bus on his first attempt to getting to Baños and ended-up an hour out of town. If in doubt double check with the driver.) 

Our guide books suggested a particular thermal bath called Hosteria Durán. It has two large swimming pools and a more exclusive area that you could enjoy for a bit extra. We took the cheap option and paid $6.20 for two adults and one child. There is a restaurant and cafe attached to the Hosteria if you feel a bit peckish after your pool time. We didn't try the fare, but the restaurant looked fairly swanky. 

The easiest way to find Hosteria Durán is to get off the bus before you get into Baños. Keep your eyes peeled to the left and look for their very large sign. Many people get off here to go to the baths. 

Abrams Family Travel Tip: All buses running in Cuenca are 25¢ per journey. Young children do not have to pay. Take the right change as the drivers do not carry any. You can jump on to a bus just about anywhere (when you see a bus approaching just wave your hand as if you were pointing your index finger to the ground saying 'stop here'), although there are designated bus stops (blue signs that say 'Parada Bus'). You can get off at anytime by ringing the bell or saying very loudly 'Gracias'. Always enter the bus through the front door and exit at the back. 

Our second journey out of Cuenca was to El Cajas Parque Nacional. There are many guided tours on offer for around $40 (not including your park entrance fee of $10). These tours are usually around five hours. 

As we like to do things on a shoestring and an authentic experience, we decided to forego a guided tour and take the trip with a friend we met at Govinda's. As Cajas is even higher in altitude than Cuenca, a five-hour hike may be a bit much if you are not acclimatised. 

If you are staying in town, catch a number 3 bus heading towards the Ferria Libre (do not get off at Ferria Libre). Get off the bus in a little area called Sayausi (if you are unsure, ask the driver to let you know). You'll know you are in the right spot if when you get off the bus you can see a road that runs like a 'Y" parallel to where you are standing. This is the road where the buses heading to Guayaquil run. When you see a Guayaquil bus (usually large tour buses) flag it down. Tell them you are getting off at El Cajas. This should cost you between $1.50 - $2.00 and there may be standing room only, which isn't major as it is only about a 20-minute ride. 

You'll get off at or near Casa Vieja, a restaurant. Stop in for a Canelazo, which is a hot alcoholic drink made of aguardiente (sugar cane alcohol), panela, and boiled cinnamon water, before you head off for your hike. We had ours minus the aguardiente. 

Just at the bottom edge of the restaurant's property is a river. Cross at the metal bridge and you'll see a path leading up into the man-made pine forrest. Follow this path around the large boulder and soon enough you'll come to your first lake. If you continue around the lake near the virgin cloud forrest trees you'll soon come to another lake. Doing this little route and heading back is usually a good first attempt at that altitude of 3,200 meters. 

Remember to stick to the path. It is very well trodden and if at any point you feel unsure, stop and listen for traffic from the road below and that will get you back to where you started. 

If your tummy is rumbling after your altitude hike, pop back into Casa Vieja for a bite to eat. The food isn't fantastic, but she was able to put together a little vegan dish for us. 

To get back to Cuenca, flag down a bus coming from Guayaquil - any bus passing by. If they don't stop it is because they are too full. All the buses will be heading into the main bus terminal in Cuenca, which travels by Ferria Libre. We got off there and grabbed another number 3 bus back into town. 

Abrams Family Travel Tip: Be sure to pack plenty of sunscreen - do not let the clouds deceive you - sunhat or wooly hat, rain coat, scarf, dress in layers, bring snacks and water.

PS. The above hike was not a strenuous hike. Zenchai managed the entire hike, both ways without even the slightest hint of a whinge and even ran parts of it.

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