I began doing research on the small town of San Marcos Sierras when the idea of going there was planted into my awareness. Information was fairly scarce to come by, but one thing that really piqued my interest was that the area was renowned for its honey - some even calling it the honey capital. So when I discovered that there was a bee education centre there I knew it would be on our 'to go to' list.
Just 2km from the town plaza is El Arbol - El Mundo De Las Abejas (The Tree - The World Of Bees). At the main entrance you are greeted with a sign "Toque y Pase", which means to ring the bell and walk through the tree-lined path.
We arrived late afternoon around 5pm and the sun and heat of the day was still surprisingly scorching. But as we ducked through the very dry terrain, we noticed tree after tree had wooden placards stating the name of the tree, what the honey from the tree is medicinally used for and even ways in which to ingest or use the honey.
We had made it as far as the Mistol tree when Claudio, our host, chief beekeeper and owner, welcomed us. Immediately it was noticeable that Claudio was passionate about bees.
This became even more apparent as he spoke to us - his Spanish sometimes would reach an almost incomprehensible pace. However, much of what he shared with us went beyond language and into our hearts.
His centre is named El Arbol after the Algarroba tree, the original tree. The indigenous people of Argentina revered the Algarroba tree for its many uses, both medicinally and for the food by-products like flour and honey. Algarroba is in the same family as carob and mesquite, but uniquely different. Like carob, it 'fruits' as a yellow-greenish pod. The honey from the Algorroba tree is medium dark in colour with a distinct sweet taste.
It had only occurred to me in that moment (of course it made total sense, too) that bees can eat the nectar from flowering trees to make honey. I know it must seem very elementary, but in my mind I had only imagined bees eating the nectar from garden flowers or shrubs. And it also clicked into place why bees are so integral to almond tree pollination, which in the US has become somewhat of a crisis situation. Now with that very big piece of information in place the world of bees became even more mesmerising.
Claudio described in intricate detail how the bees mate, communicate and live under the rule of one queen. Not only are so many crops dependant on bees working their pollination magic, but the bees are also totally self-sufficient, taking nothing from nature. All those beautiful hexagonal honeycomb structures they create. They even prefer not to use supplies given to them for building their homes.
At El Arbol there are 600 beekeeping boxes. The reason Claudio uses the wooden crates for the bees is what he calls a beekeeping secret. He believes that all bees will work to keep their body temperatures to an even 34C. If their body temperatures fall below this they have to work very hard to bring the temperature to equilibrium by doing what he described as a dance or shake of the body and wings. When the bees are in this state they produce less honey. By giving the bees the crates for their home it allows them to be more efficient and, of course, the microclimate of San Marcos is very agreeable, too.
In the centre itself there is a glass-paned window attached to a bee box, which allowed us to see inside their home. Claudio showed us the bees that had just come back into the hive. The bees had pollen stuck to their legs and were doing a particular flutter. This movement communicated to the other bees where the nectar could be found. Bees often use a specific infinity pattern of movement, too.
I had to ask Claudio about whether he, too, was suffering from disappearing and dying bees like in the US. With a big smile he nodded no. But when I prodded him more about this phenomena, he suggested there are many variables affecting the bees in the US. One of them is when beekeepers take out all the honey for themselves and replace it with sugar or glucose. He went on to explain that honey is not only a complete food for humans, but it IS the complete food for bees. A beekeeper should only take half and leave the other half for the bees. Another modern beekeeping practice is to take all the propolis that the bees produce and replace it with an antibiotic. Propolis is an antibiotic created and used by the bees. The bees are intelligent enough to know the difference in both of these cases.
This was followed by the all important question: "How did he get into beekeeping?" If a man's eyes could light-up then his surely did. He replied with a childish laugh, "By accident. You know like wife is accident. Then children are accident." Claudio placed a lot of emphasis on the significance of being in tune with the bees. His beekeeping style is such that when he handles the bees he doesn't wear gloves or a special suit, only a mask over his face. This sensitivity to the bees has formed a unique bond with them. He has even taught his three children how to care for and handle bees in a nurturing way. Who could disagree with a man that had been successfully caring for bees for 25 years!
Turning away from our glimpse into the secret life of bees we gathered at Claudio's colourful and bountiful tasting station. There was row upon row of differently shaded honeys. Some where almost black like molasses, while others were the more familiar light amber. He offered us spoonful after spoonful all while describing the tone, depth and medicinal use. My tongue was on sweet overload by the last spoonful!
In the end we purchased a rather large jar of Mistol honey. The Mistol tree flowers in November and then develops a small, round red berry that traditionally used to be picked and eaten by the indigenous children. Like the fruit, the honey is dark in hue with red highlights. Mistol honey is often used here in the winter months to sooth throat ailments.
I'm not sure how many varieties of honey Claudio has on offer. There is enough variety to satisfy any honey lover and maybe even convert a non-honey lover into one.
When it was time to depart none of us felt ready. There was something very special about Claudio and the work he is doing. We had the feeling we could spend many hours listening and learning from him. I even mentioned to Claude that he should take up beekeeping, but he dismissed that idea. However, maybe in some distant or near future I will study under a beekeeper, simply just to learn more about the ancient wisdom bees offer.
AbramsFamilyWorldTravel Tip:
If you take a remis to El Arbol arrange for them to pick you 1.5 - 2 hours later so you fully delight in the bees and honey.
El Arbol Address: Las Gramillas, San Marcos Sierras, Cordoba, Argentina, Tel: 03549-15433088, Email: mieleselarbol@hotmail.com, Web: www.mieleselarbol.com.ar, Beekeeper: Claudio Jaroszewski, Hours: 9am - 7pm.
My friend Alejandro is from San Marcos Sierras, when I visited there, I met his sister (name forgotten), who also was in the honey business. Next time you see Claudio, maybe ask him if he knows Alejandro's sister. She was very nice, and, since it's been years, probably she won't remember me; nevertheless, if she's still there, she'd be a good connection.
Posted by: Bill M | 28 December 2010 at 03:08 AM
Did some searching on the internet how to get from San Marcos Sierras to Brazil (Rio) by bus, and if that's even possible. Didn't find it, but your family blog came up on the front page. Since you stayed their for a bit, perhaps from your conversations with people there or your own experience you know if that's possible or I'd have to go back to BsAs then fly or go to Foz de iguazu and take a bus from there. I lived in Argentina in 2006 but never even heard of San Marcos Sierra at that time. Thx in advance for any help. Phoebe*
Posted by: Phoebe* | 18 August 2011 at 06:06 AM
lol I'm almos positive I know who the Bill M comment is above, since he stayed in Vilcabamba, too! we lived there at the same time
Posted by: Phoebe* | 18 August 2011 at 06:07 AM
Hi Phoebe. The bus system in Argentina and Brazil is pretty good. But the distance from San Marcos to Rio is huge. However, if you don't mind spending days on buses I am sure it can be done. Go through Iguazu and then down to Rio. Spend some time in Iguazu, though. It's spectacular. Enjoy.
Posted by: Claude | 23 August 2011 at 07:41 PM
People should be made aware of the neageivts of urban beekeeping. Honeybees are prone to swarming. After swarming, the bees can re-locate into all sorts of places. So all the buildings should be made bee-proof. There's a lot of swarms around my area at the moment I'm constantly telling people to bee-proof their houses, they just give me blank looks, except the people who have an infestation, THEY take notice.
Posted by: Lisa | 11 August 2012 at 12:28 PM