The stunning Cerro Utorico mountain had stared at us since we arrived (we could see it from the porch of our apartment) and I wanted to hike to its summit. I waited for the cloudless days to pass, to avoid the climb in extreme heat as daily temperatures neared 40 degrees, but the sun over Christmas is relentless.
Then, with days running out on our stay, finally a storm arrives and I decide, regardless of the weather, I will make my ascent the next morning. I make my preparations: walking shoes; water (it is recommended you have 2 litres); sandwiches (avocado, tomato, tahini and lettuce); fruits (grapefruit , apple and two oranges); sunblock. I'd also recommend a change of shirt and towel (especially if you go in summer).
I rise at 6am, then quietly (as Jamie and Zenchai slept) ate some watermelon (to hydrate), wash and put on some clothes. I then have a fruit salad before setting off as the sun rises. The streets are quiet, almost deserted as I head towards Utorico.
The walk from the centre of town to base camp is 3km. The hike to the top is 5,548m. Estimated time up is 4hrs and down 3hrs. Slowly, I head through town then, following signs, find base camp after crossing a dried-out river bed.
Base camp is also a restaurant. To advance up the mountain, one must pay 40 pesos and complete a form with your details. You are requested to start coming down at 3pm.
Grab a stick on your way. This is useful going up and down for providing stability.
The path signs are clearly marked. Stick to them, but be sure to stop and look around. Take in the surroundings, breath in the clean air, feel the solitude and peace. Take photos, but bear in mind the views get much better as you go higher.
It is a fantastic workout. I hear my heart pounding. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone who's not in reasonable condition. With an estimated three hours to go to the top, my shirt is ringing wet and my head dripping with sweat. But, to be honest, I am loving it!
I walk alone until halfway when, taking in more amazing views of Capilla, am joined by three wild dogs. I call them Guardians of Uritorco. They stick with me the rest of the way, stopping when I stop and walking whenever I continue. One always stays behind me and two lead the way, as though they are guiding me safely to the peak. I hope they are not after food as a reward, what with me being vegan.
I could hear the dogs panting until we reach the cross that marks Uritorco's roof. We make it and it is worth it.
I walk around, looking in awe from every direction and then find a spot to sit down and have my lunch in silence, just gazing out over the mountain's edge. All I can hear is nature - the birds, wind, insects and, of course, the dogs.
Then it is time to go down. This is the hardest part. The paths are rocky and jagged. It's easy to twist an ankle and fall - and you wouldn't want to do that. Take it easy. Enjoy the walk.
Finally at the bottom, my feet and knees are aching. I look behind me, bid farewell to the impressive Uritorco and head back into town. By 2pm I am back at our apartment. Time for a nice dip in the pool!
Oh my God, what a fantastic post. I felt I was with you. When you show the dogs joining you and how they act as your guides a shiver went through me. What an awesome experience...thanks for sharing.
I am thinking of visiting Argentina, Chile or Ecuador (or some or all of themI) in two weeks. I am following your blog to help me make up my mind.
Leigh
Posted by: India-leigh | 02 January 2011 at 02:49 AM
Nothing can beat a good hike and being at one with nature!
Posted by: Steven | 02 January 2011 at 02:31 PM
Thank you, Leigh. I almost had shivers when reading that you got shivers. Glad you enjoyed the post. Argentina is a vast and amazing place. We haven't had time to go to Patagonia, but it's a region I would love one day to go to. Also, I have heard some impressive reviews of Chile. Good luck and enjoy wherever you decide to go.
Claude
Posted by: Claude Abrams | 02 January 2011 at 03:04 PM
I am a student planning a trip to Capilla del Monte and San Marcos Sierras and found your blog very helpful. Gracias!
Posted by: Merritt | 23 May 2011 at 11:58 PM
Thank you for reading. Glad we could help. Hope you enjoy it as much as we did.
Posted by: Claude | 26 May 2011 at 11:41 PM