Piracanga: The Hike To Itacare

The only way to get food if you choose not to eat in the restaurant at Piracanga is to trek to Itacare, about 6km away up the beach.

The best way is to leave when the tide is low and the sand firmer and thus easier to walk on.

But with supplies low and a few bills to settle, I set out after lunch, around 2pm - and when the tide is high and the sun still strong (I figure if I can do it during the most difficult conditions, I can do it anytime).

With a green shopping bag, swimming shorts, water bottle and sleeveless shirt, I say goodbye to Jamie and hop on a raft to cross the river, pulling a rope to reach the other side.

Sweat soon drips from my head as I march through the sand, waves crashing against the shore to my left. I walk partly in the water, to keep myself cool, and once I go beyond the first bend I see a lighthouse in the distance. This, I discover, is Itacare.

I continue walking in that direction, looking at the coastline and alone with my thoughts, taking in water and enjoying the privacy on this huge stretch of golden beach. The sand is clean. Although much is swept up by the strong waves, it’s usually just bits of wood or coconut shells.

Nearing the lighthouse, having walked for around 40 minutes at a reasonable pace, I stop for a swim, hanging up my shirt and parking my bag in the shade. The water feels fantastic, the waves great fun and I don’t want to get out. But I must in order to make it back before the sun goes down.

Reluctantly, I proceed another 20 minutes to a beautiful bay, where there is a restaurant and tables. Here I take a canoe across to Itacare. I’d been told to pay no more than R3. The driver of the canoe is friendly, but speaks as much English as I do Portugese. But we manage.

I climb into his canoe, sitting at the front. A young lady joins me for the short journey. The driver puts up his sail. We see a few dolphins on the way.

The journey is quite smooth. I take my belongings and get out, asking the price. He tells me R5. I give him R6, expecting some change, but he walks off. I make no fuss.

I walk into Itacare to get our goods, stopping at a health food store for some granola (for Zenchai) and then pick up several pineapples and mangoes, enough to fill my bag. Then I head back, walking down to the shore and along to where the canoes are parked. As I arrive, the same driver is waiting and asks if I want to return.

In my best Portugese, I say ‘How much?’ He says R6. The price has gone up. I tell him I was told it was R2 or R3. He scoffs.

We go back across the water. This time he paddles. The sun is going down. Arriving on the other side, I climb out and hand him R5 and walk off. He says nothing.

I begin to walk back, the sun on my left and with the temperature falling. It is cooler, but nice. I keep walking and walking – barefoot.

As darkness arrives, I look behind me. The lighthouse seems like it is still over my shoulder, making me feel as if I have made no progress. I walk and walk some more. Then I start jogging. Still Itacare remains close.

Will I return before darkness? Although the sand is harder, I can’t go any faster because of my load. The balls of my feet start to hurt. Stars emerge as the sun disappears. I pass by one of the Piracanga chefs, cycling in the opposite direction. He is the only person I see that day on the beach.

Eventually, I come to a bend. Once I go around the corner, Itacare will be out of sight. As I turn this corner, I notice lights in the distance – lights from Piracanga. I walk towards them and down to the river banks, where I also follow the reflection of the water.

The river is low and the raft stuck on the other side in the sand. So I lift up my bag of goods and walk through the water to the other side.

I arrive at 7pm, much later than I had anticipated, but just in time for dinner, Jamie and Zenchai waiting. I wrap around my waist a towel and, hungry for food and drink, sit down to eat.

That night I slept well. But the fruits will last only a few days and the journey has to be repeated.

But this is the way of life here in Piracanga, where we trade convenience and abundance for simplicity and a greater sense of freedom.

Comments

[Steven]

Are you trying to put Mum off from coming!! I think you should buy yourself a smal speed boat, or a bike with big fat tyres to get through the sand!

With petrol prices rising into the clouds back here, we will soon be doing 2 hour walks from home to Waitrose to get our food as well!

[Claude]

People do these sort of things routinely on a daily basis all over the world - sometimes just for water. I suppose it makes you realise how fortunate you are. This sort of life is hard for some and ideal for others. There are very few vehicles here also - to keep pollution to a minimum. Once I've done the walk for several months it will probably not feel arduous at all.

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