Boipeba: Island Retreat

WE had been told about a little island paradise just off the mainland from Valença called Boipeba. All our friends that had made the journey there came back to Piracanga with a sparkle in their eye.

What was so magical about this place with 300 inhabitants? Could it be because it is a well-known ecological haven that houses a diverse aray of flora and fauna? Or possibly the tranquil beaches created by the surrounding reefs?

We had to find out for ourselves.

Getting to Boipeba from Itacare was fairly straightforward. Buses leave from Itacare every hour for Valença. Journey time is around 2 1/2-3 hours. Then once in Valença, you have to make your way to the Terminal Hidroviario. Take a taxi from bus station for R12, but it's walkable if you don't have mountains of luggage, taking around 10-15 minutes on foot.

There are two options by boat to Boipeba island - fast and slow. We opted for the quick route (one hour journey time) at a cost of R35 per adult. It can get a little chilly (with the wind) and choppy (depending on your driver).

There are lots of options for places to stay. Pousadas are everywhere. But if you're vegan, like us, we'd recommend you get a place with a kitchen. Eating out can be a problem off-season, but even when most restaurants are closed there are still options - more so in the evening when the acaraje (falafel-type fried balls made from black-eyed bean paste) and tapioca stands open for business.

Of course, the real attraction of this island is the beaches - and there are plenty. The water is shallow (great for children) and the sand clean.

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