SEVERAL friends of ours had described this place as "the most beautiful they had ever visited." While it's obviously a special spot on the island, we wouldn't go so far as to hand it such a lofty status.
Perhaps it didn't help going off-season, but one of our aforementioned friends had visited only a few weeks before us and was blown away.
The weather for our stay was, admittedly, not great for beach life. Most of the restaurants were closed, giving it a sort of abandoned feeling. Getting food produce (for those, like us, choosing the self-catering option) is fairly limited. You have to buy in Boipeba and bring it with you on the tractor or horse and cart, which is the only way to reach this part of the island without walking about 6.5km around the coast or 4.8km across from Boipeba centre.
To catch the transport requires a walk of around 1km. It's not signposted, so be prepared to ask several times. People are very friendly and will point you in the right direction.
Close to the tractor stop is a grocery store and, believe it or not, a type of health food shop (basic, but good). There are some bars etc also.
The journey is bumpy by horse and cart and there's no shelter should it rain. It's a slow trek and the poor horse works his butt off trudging through the sand, especially when going downhill.
In Morere there are several pousadas with kitchens, but most come without. We found the rates, by Brazilian standards, quite high. For instance, we were being asked to pay around R120 per night. In Boipeba the going rate was roughly half that. It seemed the owners would prefer their accommodation empty rather than have someone stay for a reduced fee.
The attraction, of course, is the long stretch of beaches. There are some rocky parts, but it is mostly sand and the water very clear and shallow, perfect for young children.
Evidently, Heaven migrated from Bali, where it was hanging out in the mid 1970s. But then, perception always trumps place--and time trumps both of those!
Posted by: Bill Moss | 07 November 2011 at 03:41 PM