THE main reason we are here, in Varkala Beach, is because of my great long-time friend Bob Lesson.
He introduced us, verbally, to this southern Indian town and, from his adventures here, sewed the seeds for us to plant ourselves in India for six weeks as we grow to discover Asia.
Bob first travelled to India back in the 1970s, when he was at school. I love telling the story of how, in his school summer holidays, Bob disappeared for six weeks, hitch-hiking halfway around the world - unbeknown to his parents, who couldn't afford to take him on holiday! Bob went through India, via Afghanistan, barely with any money in his pocket, on his way to Sri Lanka.
It was in India, where he was exposed to great poverty and, ironically, generosity, that Bob was most greatly influenced.
Naturally, Bob can't get enough of this huge country, the seventh largest in the world, and for three of the last four years he has come to Varkala.
So when we planned our journey to Asia and knew Bob was intending to visit Varkala again, we exchanged notes and decided to rendezvous here.
Bob's arrival was fairly typical - a knock at the door and a big grin at 6am after his early-morning arrival via Dubai.
Since then it's been fun, games and adventures. Zenchai loves Bob.
Bob introduced us to a wonderful Indian woman called Kumari, who at her home cooks the most fantastic Kerala-style meals (above), including a great banana curry. She has been doing it for over 20 years and doesn't advertise (and has refused to be included in the Lonely Planet). But by word of mouth visitors learn of her cooking and generous spreads (at a cost of R200 [approximately £3] per person). Everyone eats with their hands and on banana leafs instead of plates. She just comes round and dishes out the food until you can eat no more. On one recent occasion she served us 14 different dishes! We were all thoroughly stuffed and Kumari so happy.
She genuinely loves entertaining and pleasing people with her food. And there is always more than enough. We went once for dinner and again for lunch a few days later, when Zenchai, much to his delight, got to ride up front in a tuk-tuk. The food at Kumari's was delicious each time.
If you want to experience 'real' Kerala food, you can contact Kumari by telephone (9387911309). She takes customers for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, but needs to know in advance when you are coming.
While in the food mood, Bob and I signed up for one of Varkala Beach's cooking courses (at the Bamboo Village).
Although the organisation was poor - the price wasn't made clear (we ended up paying R900 [£13] between us) and, when we arrived, we were told to wait in reception while the chef was impatiently waiting for us - it was worth it.
We very nearly didn't go through with it, though. When the chef lectured us about punctuality, Bob took great offence, which is unusual for Bob. He told the chef how he felt and was close to walking out. The chef didn't quite understand it wasn't our fault.
So we stayed - and I'm glad we did. So, too, was Bob. He and I served up some amazing nosh, as good as anything we have eaten in Varkala thus far (except perhaps for Kumari!) He taught us a few things, too, like putting a slice of onion over each ear to prevent tears when cutting it (look closely at pic above). And we adapted all the dishes to be vegan (except for Bob's fish, of course) by substituting coconut milk for cow's milk and vegetable or coconut oil for ghee.
On our menu was Masala Dosa, Vegetable Biriyani, Green Papaya Masala, Fish in Banana Leaf, Onion Pakora and Dhal Curry. It was all made from scratch and with (mostly) natural ingredients - in less than 90 minutes. This included preparation time.
Afterwards, Bob and I sat down and scoffed the lot (about 90 per cent of it) and didn't feel to eat again for the rest of the day. It was that delicious and satisfying. But if you choose to do the course, be sure to invite your friends and family. There is plenty to go around.
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クロエ ロゴ http://www.vanformer.net/%e8%b6%85%e6%bf%80%e5%ae%89-%e3%82%af%e3%83%ad%e3%82%a8-%e3%83%ad%e3%82%b4see-by-%e3%82%af%e3%83%ad%e3%82%a8%e3%82%af%e3%83%ad%e3%82%a8-%e3%83%81%e3%82%a7%e3%83%bc%e3%83%b3%e3%83%90%e3%83%83/
Posted by: クロエ ロゴ | 10 September 2013 at 08:51 PM