Abrams Family World Travel

Vancouver: Around The World In 1,111 Days

GIVEN that we started our journey over three years ago by heading close to South America's west coast - Ecuador - we have now practically circumnavigated the globe - in 1,111 days by arriving in Vancouver, Canada from Auckland.

It means that Zenchai, our son, has more or less been travelling half his life. Whereas our daughter, Kobra, knows no other life. She is a true nomad - born on the road, in Brazil, and has rolled with the punches ever since. She transitions from one location to another more easily than any of us. 

Vancouver will be our home for the next three months. It feels strange being in a big city again, having become so used to New Zealand's open spaces and lack of frenzy. 

But we look forward to the changes - in location, climate (far cooler), economy (more expensive, at least with regards to accommodation) - and the opportunity a place like Vancouver will offer us. We've settled into our cosy Laneway Home from which we can see the snow-capped mountains in the distance.

We are here, though, primarily for CrossFit, as I am on a three-month intern program at CrossFit Vancouver, one of the top and pioneering CrossFit facilities in the world.

I have the qualifications to coach (having passed the exams), but that's just theory and coaching is all about putting the knowledge into practice.

So I'm hoping they will teach me to become a coach - to equip me on my journey to transform lives through CrossFit, which promotes better health and well-being through strength and conditioning and changes in diet.

When I left England three years ago and quit my job of 23 years as a print journalist, the plan was to discover a new passion as we travelled the world. It took longer than I had hoped. But that's how it is.

I knew when I first tried CrossFit, though, that this was it. And I have always been one to chase my passions and make dreams (like travelling the world with my family) come true, regardless of what others think or say. 

CrossFit is my new passion and as our travel feels like it is winding down, our attention is focusing more on the future and what that will hold for us. We are planning accordingly. 

Vancouver promises to be a pivotal stop along the way.

World Travel: Groundhog Day

TEN pm and we were driving around Auckland when we should have been in the sky, on our way from New Zealand to Vancouver, Canada.

We had been sitting at the gate for our international flight when my name was called over the loudspeaker.

Jamie and I glanced at each other, thinking 'what could this be about?'

I was soon to find out. 

When I got to the Air New Zealand representatives, I was told we couldn't fly - because we didn't have an onward-bound ticket from Canada.

We were going to Canada for three months, everything booked, and were not sure of our next move, so left it open.

I check for small details like this before planning trips. And while it's clearly stated before entering countries like Australia and New Zealand that you need an onward-bound ticket, I didn't read anything similar for Canada. Well, apparently you do. I must have missed this one. 

So after representatives failed to help me sort it out as time approached for us to board, I was advised to go to the internet counter and book a flight. Any flight.

With time ticking, I searched the net for a good deal, but there was nothing cheap and when I finally nailed a flight (which wasn't cheap), my credit card denied the transaction. I suppose the fee was too large and it flagged up a security warning. It's great to know my credit card people are watching out for fraudsters, but it didn't help me on this occasion.

I was resigned to defeat. There wasn't enough time left. I returned to the airline counter and explained what had happened. Out came the manager, all apologetic but firm, doing her job and explaining we had to come off the flight.

"So what next?" I asked.

"You'll have to get another flight," she replied.

"You mean buy another one?" I asked.

"Possibly," she said.

This was now going from huge inconvenience to disaster. But I managed to stay calm. I accepted our fate and had to fill in landing cards, as though we had all arrived in New Zealand, in order to go through immigration and passport control to collect our luggage etc.

It took forever. Soon Jamie and the kids, all looking tired and a bit flummoxed, joined me.

We made our way back, finding it hard not to think about the prospect of doing it all again the next day. There was good news around the corner, though. It turned out we didn't have to buy new flights and that we would be put on the same flight 24 hours later, so long as we had proof of an onward-bound journey in Canada.

All of us were hungry. We finally got through to the main airport area, where we had to wait to be reunited with our bags and then sort out paperwork for the flight the next day.

Another manager came over to me to explain the situation, saying that ALL non-Canadian and non-American citizens must have onward-bound flights upon arrival in Canada. That means Kobra and I, since Zenchai has an American passport. 

Then more good news - he said the airline (Air New Zealand) would put us up in a hotel for the night and pay for the taxis etc, which was a relief given our cab meter was at NZ$84 by the time we arrived.

So we waited, snacking on apples and letting the kids run around the busy airport, until finally we had taxi and hotel vouchers presented to us.

We loaded ourselves into a cab and set off, only for the taxi driver to end up in the wrong part of town.

Eventually, we got there - too late for any dinner. Quickly, I sent a message to the person who had offered to fetch us from Vancouver airport, hoping she'd get it in time. We then just stripped off and got into bed. What a day. 

The next morning I was on the internet checking out flights until a friend (and travel agent) helped me out. We were all set.

Slowly, we made our way through the day. I took Zenchai to a nearby park to allow him to exert some energy and work his legs in readiness for 13 hours on an airplane.

Eventually, the time came to again set off for the airport - 15 minutes away. We arrived in good time, produced our documents showing we would be leaving Canada, and headed on through to the gate once more.

It was a tough flight, though. None of us, except for Kobra, really slept. Zenchai was over-tired and probably over-stimulated from the in-flight entertainment. Air New Zealand is a great airline, but we struggled through to Canada.

Upon arrival, the immigration lines were long. We queued until an officer saw Jamie nursing Kobra and pulled us out to a faster track.

But the immigration officer grilled us. "Where are you staying?" "How are you affording this?" "How long have you been travelling?" What sort of work do you do?" "Where was your daughter born?" "Does she have a Brazilian passport?" "Can I see it?" etc.

That wasn't the end of it. We were then pulled out of line again, this time to have our bags searched. It appeared like a random procedure, but I didn't think we particularly looked like smugglers.

In the end, though, the officer asked some more questions, took our passports, presumably ran a few checks and came back satisfied. 

We were in Vancouver, safely. It was colder than in New Zealand - cloudy with drizzle, but not as cold as I had anticipated. We arrived at our home for the next three months, a cosy Laneway Home, and slowly settled in. Seasoned travellers we may all be, but it still doesn't get any easier. 

World Travel: Surviving Motion Sickness

I'M not the worst in our family for motion sickness. I recall years ago, when on holiday in Mauritius on a deep-sea fishing trip (my pre-vegan days), being sick the entire time (about six hours). And as a kid, when we used to take family trips through Europe, I'd often have my head hanging out of the window of my dad's Renault 16 (especially on winding roads) or whatever model he had at the time.

But Zenchai's in a different league. He'll get sick if we go over a speed bump! No, I'm exagerating the point, but the little guy is terribly sensitive to motion sickness. He's okay on city buses, trains, quad bikes and Indian/Thai tuk-tuks, but fast taxis, bumpy aeroplane rides, rough ferry crossings and long-distance coaches in particular have his little guts stewing.

What prompted this blog was our trip down from Auckland to beautiful Napier by coach on New Year's Day. I thought it was a relatively smooth one, but not Zenchai. 

About two hours into the journey, after he'd chowed down a few peanut butter sandwiches (not the Stig sandwiches he's pictured with above) for breakfast, he started to feel ill. 

I noticed the signs - the frequent yawning. But we didn't react fast enough. Zenchai complained he wasn't feeling well. Jamie, sat in front of us with Kobra, started searching for a bag and then handed it to me. I tried getting it open. But it was too late. As I fumbled trying to find the bag opening, Zenchai projectile vommited all over himself and me. Yuck!

Then something amazing happened. An Australian passenger travelling alone (a man and father of two teenage boys) quickly dashed to the rescue and offered his help!

Armed with a bag of baby wipes, I accepted his assistance (of course) and handed them to him. Between us, we managed to mop up most of the sick. 

We've been through this scenario before, especially when in Ecuador, where the roads are winding and the drivers handle them like maniacs.

So armed with some experience, here are our tips for surviving motion sickness with children.

1. Don't read.

2. Get fresh air (if possible).

3. Watch the road and get a seat near the front if on a coach or bus.

4. Get your child to sleep if he or she can.

5. Travel on an empty stomach (which is contrary to a lot of advice, but just my experience). If you must eat, try potato chips (we don't usually eat them, but they apparently work for those with sensitive guts and we tried it recently on Zenchai - with success)

6. Carry extra clothing.

7. Make sure you have sick bags.

8. Take baby wipes or something to clean up a mess with.

After Zenchai had emptied the contents of his belly, he was pretty much okay. He at least survived the remaining three hours on the road, though Kobra had her turn and spat up all over Jamie, who isn't a great coach traveller either.

But don't let all of this put you off embarking on long travels with your children. After all, if we can survive then surely anyone can. 

 

Australia: Sydney To Melbourne By Campervan

WE set off with a great sense of excitement, the buzz one gets from anticipating a completely new and long-anticipated experience.

By the time we had finished - 1,126 km later - we were all pretty whacked and with butt pains. If we were to take this journey again, I would certainly allow at least six or seven days.

There are many stunning spots along the way and things to do and see. But we had only four days to make the journey and around 300km to cover each day. With children, we tried to make frequent stops or time the driving around when Kobra would take her naps. Sometimes this meant passing by towns we would otherwise have stopped at and looked around. In truth, I underestimated the length and time of the journey.

Having said that, it was a great trip and experience. Australia is a vast and magnificent country and there are fewer better ways to sample that than on wheels.

For the economically-minded, you may want to consider doing it our way. We opted for a relocation vehicle return - that is a rental vehicle that has been driven one-way and needs to be taken back to its original location. Although it is often advertised as 'free', it isn't. Still, it's cheaper and more enjoyable than flying.

Usually these deals crop up at the last moment, so I kept tabs on several websites before landing a 4-berth Toyota Mobile Home with standbyrelocs.com.

It was really simple to book. I saw the vehicle I wanted (which matched the dates available for me) and telephoned. I did most of it over the phone, received confirmation and details by email and turned up on the designated day to collect the vehicle.

Considering that flights from Sydney to Melbourne are around $250 per adult, our total outlay came to around $400 for two adults and two children.

This included hiring a baby seat for $30, a Sat Nav for $10 per day and reducing my insurance excess to $100 from $1,000 by forking out $18 per day. We also received $150 worth of petrol free (make sure you keep your receipts), which meant my share of the fuel costs came to approximately $100. The other significant outlay was for powered sites at camping grounds, which ranged from between $35-$40 per night. And camping grounds along Princes Highway are easy to find.

The relocation staff were very professional. Zenchai and I took the bus and then train from Five Dock, Sydney, where we were based, to Mascot, where we collected the vehicle. While the paperwork was being processed, we were given a mini laptop to watch a video about how the camper operated.

Zenchai and I drove back to Five Dock to collect Jamie, Kobra and the luggage and then we were on our way, targeting Lake Tabourie as our first stop, though it took us a long time on a Friday afternoon to get out of Sydney.

We arrived in Lake Tabourie just as the sun was going down and the campsite reception was closing its doors.

It was a fantastic spot, which only really became apparent in the morning, when (after a fairly rough night sleeping - temperatures dropped dramatically) we saw the ocean and the river. The way they combined - with the bright blue sky - reminded us of our time in Piracanga, Brazil.

On that first night we made a makeshift dinner (protein bars Jamie had made before the journey, plus some toast and a protein shake each) and then got the camper ready for bedtime.

For two persons these campers are perfectly adequate, but with four it's challenging, especially when you have two lively kids dancing around (as you can imagine after being couped up) and more luggage than available room.

Kobra tipped over a tub of dried mulberries and then her protein drink spilled all over a cushion. Then Kobra knocked Jamie, while she was devouring some coconut yoghurt, and that ended up over Jamie and the furniture. Needless to say, our first evening was one of serious adjustment.

Although the camper came better equipped than many apartments we had rented, it was tight for space once the bedding was down. Kobra tripped over my foot at one point and hurtled down the gap by the sliding door. Zenchai was up and down the bunk ladder, thinking he was in a playground, and trying to build with cushions.

We finally got to bed around 10pm - Jamie and the kids down below while I squeezed myself - literally - on to a shelf above. With barely enough room to turn, I somehow got through the night and dragged my aching body out in the morning, yearning for the nearby toilets (nice and clean), while the kids still slept, of course. 

For the children the campsite was great also, not just for playing on the beach and by the water, but because the facilities for young ones are outstanding. We gave Zenchai and Kobra time to burn some energy in the playground before we departed.

Back on the road, with Jamie and Kobra in the rear and Zenchai beside me as my navigator, we headed for Pambula Beach. We were lucky with the weather the whole way. It had been raining in Sydney when we departed, but became progressively brighter as we headed towards Melbourne.

At the end of the second day we reached Pambula Beach with enough daylight for the kids to play while Jamie prepared dinner. Again, the facilities were first class and we had the added attraction of wild kangaroos EVERYWHERE. So, too, were kangaroo droppings!

Although the camp staff said to keep away from the kangaroos and pay them little attention, I couldn't resist being fascinated, so the morning after our arrival - this time Zenchai slept up top and I joined Jamie and Kobra down below - I took the kids for a closer look. The kangaroos weren't afraid. They even came sniffing around our camper - for food, of course.

Each day was a quest for balance and co-ordination - giving the kids enough play time and preparing meals while they did so. Ideally, though, we'd have stayed a day or two at each camp site or gone into town to see what was on offer or spent more time at the beach. And the surrounding areas offered great trekking and outdoor pursuits. The options were endless.

On day three our intended target was Lakes Entrance. The roads were long and mostly straight. We passed through a pretty town called Eden, famous for whale-spotting and I wish we'd had time to visit the Killer Whale museum. Eventually, we stopped for lunch by the water in Mallacoota, which is a 20km detour off Princes Highway but well worth it. Everyone, except me, of course, napped as we passed mile after mile of national forest. Road signs warning against tiredness were everywhere. Often we seemed like the only vehicle on the road.

By the time we reached Lakes Entrance, we had a few more hours of daylight remaining, so we ventured further, to make our drive on the final day less daunting, and stopped for the night in the town of Sale.

It was another chilly evening. This time we all huddled together in sleeping bags to keep warm and got up early, with frost on the windscreen, in readiness for the remaining 200km.

Zenchai was excited to reach Melbourne, because there he would be staying with friends of Jamie's who have three boys.

We made it ahead of schedule. I dropped off Jamie and the kids then headed into Melbourne to return the vehicle, get my deposit back and then, by train, find my way to the family for the beginning of the next chapter of our journey.

 

 

Phuket: Quick Dose Of Beach Life

HOW good it felt to be back by the ocean again. We stopped in Phuket for a day to break up our journey from Chiang Mai to Bali. We're glad we did.

The kids played outdoors practically the whole time, but there was a price to pay. The sun was scorching. For the first time ever, Zenchai got mildly sun-burned. In fact, we all did - and it didn't take long. Be warned.

It is said that Phuket has two seasons: hot and wet; and bloody hot! Officially, it was rainy season and our hotel was practically deserted. We had a few trickles of rain, but it was mostly sunny.

We didn't surface until late in the day as we had left Chiang Mai on an overnight flight and arrived in the ealy hours of the morning. We were all tired.

But after breakfast the kids were in the pool, which they had all to themselves. Zenchai swam and entertained himself by making boats from banana leaves and banana flowers, make-believing they were pirate ships.

It felt good to be back by the coast again, even if it was only for a day. 

I took an exploratory walk, to see what the neighbourhood had to offer, which wasn't a great deal.

I noticed, though, from the moment we landed that everything in Phuket is about three times the price it is in Chiang Mai.

Getting a taxi after midnight, when we landed, cost us 400b (£8), the taxi drivers insisting the journey was 15 minutes when it was actually five! But what can you do when there was no alternative?

The next day, as I searched for food and fruit for snacking for our kids, I again noticed the inflated prices - and no fruit shops in sight!

We were staying close to the airport, so the rest of the island, particularly where it is busier, is likely to be different. 

However, the light at the end of this proverbial tunnel I was walking was the golden 
beach. It was about a 15-minute walk from our hotel and the ocean was a beautiful warm temperature and the sand nice underfoot - not too sticky and no glass or sharp objects to be found.

We went there late in the day, around 5pm, when the sun wasn't as fierce - or so we thought. It was still hot even as we played in the water.

Kobra made friends with an older local boy while Zenchai was busy building castles and moats. Eventually, the boy, who barely spoke English, joined Zenchai and they all played together, digging, running races etc. 

They played until the sun went down and it was time to eat. The beach is lined with restaurants and we didn't know which one to choose. We picked one in the end and the food was nice even if the experience was spoiled by insects dive-bombing our table. 

In the dark, we headed back to the hotel, showered up, packed our bags again in readiness for rising at 4am for our flight and hit the sack. 

Asia: Five Days, Four Cities, Three Flights, Two Children, An Overpriced Durian and No Almond Butter!

WE were all relieved to get back to our apartment in Chiang Mai after four days away and time spent in Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and Bangkok.

Zenchai was going stir crazy on the aeroplane back to Thailand. We had a five-hour layover in Bangkok after our Air Asia flight had been cancelled. Tired, hungry and cooped up, Zenchai gave us a testing experience. Kobra slept most of the way. Aeroplanes just aren't designed for young children.

We stopped in Kuala Lumpur the first night as we couldn't get a connecting flight that day on to Singapore.

KL airport is a long way from the city centre. But we elected to use the train instead of taxi or bus or coach (as we'd done in the past). It's far cheaper, more efficient and comfortable. The trains are fast and slick, like in Germany. It made travelling a far more pleasant experience.

Kobra attracted a lot of attention from travellers, many of whom had their picture taken with her like she was some kind of celebrity. It bordered on the ridiculous. 

Zenchai looked on, unamused. He doesn't like the attention he gets in Asia - all the touching without first asking drives him crazy, often quite literally. He is also protective of his little sister.

Anyhow, by the time we arrived in KL city centre, checked-in to our hotel and dropped off our luggage, it was time to head out again. We had a family appointment - a play date for Zenchai with his second cousin at a playcentre in Bangsar Village shopping mall. He had been looking forward to it for ages. Z and his cousin ran around for hours. Money well spent. Zenchai also received a belated birthday gift - a Monster Truck book, which he loved. Afterwards we went for a Banana Leaf dinner after which it was time to head back to the hotel (by train) and then get up in the morning for our mid-day flight to Singapore.

Getting to KL airport was quicker than heading into the city when we arrived. On the train we met a nice English/French-Moroccan family with a young boy. Zenchai wasn't too sociable at first, but later warmed up a bit. 

At KL airport we checked in, grabbed a bite to eat at our favourite veggie Indian restaurant and then waited for our plane to depart. Zenchai amused himself by driving around luggage trollies.

I had been to Singapore before, but it was the first time for Jamie and the kids. As we were about to land, the captain made an interesting announcement, warning against bringing into the country knuckle-dusters, swords, guns and numb chucks! What sort of people go to Singapore, I wondered?

Then, of course, he reminded everyone about the stiff penalty for drug-smuggling - mandatory death sentence. They may as well have added raw almond butter to the list (more on that later).

I had an exam to sit in Singapore, but squeezing in any last-minute revision wasn't easy with a family in tow. Hours after arriving and nursing a deltoid injury, I headed to Reebok Crossfit Enduro for a workout. Some 90 power cleans later my shoulders somehow felt better. Jamie and the kids amused themselves at a park nearby and then in the gym while they waited. Zenchai got creative with all the equipment.

All hungry, we went in search of food. We didn't find eating in Singapore very easy. It's all Chinese, mostly fried, high on meat and starchy carbs and laced with msg. We settled for some veggie soup. Zenchai had a juice and some rice. Then it was off to bed - late - after a long walk in the still-ultra humid conditions.

The next morning I had to wake up Zenchai from a deep sleep. He had a training appointment at 9am at Crossfit. We caught a train and walked the rest of the way. He did some running around and lifting. On the way home, he felt proud - and didn't stop talking about it.

We were all hungry by the time we met up with Jamie and Kobra. But then we made our worst purchase of the weekend. Seeking out durian, I bought a 2kgs one, noticing a sign that said $10 per kilo. I asked "how much?" and the reply came "$14". But it turned out to be "$40" and not "14". By then I had already eaten it. That's a whopping £20 for a durian!! 

To make matters worse, Jamie didn't even like it. 

If it took Jamie and I hours to get over the shock, at least the kids weren't fussed. We decided to seek out a play centre. The hotel gave us directions - by train, bus and then on foot.

We found it - eventually. First, though, we stopped at an upscale restaurant called The Living Cafe that was right up Jamie's street - lots of delicious raw food desserts, but at near-jaw-dropping prices.

We each had a slice and then headed off into the heat on foot with only approximate directions. Of course, half a mile down the road Zenchai decided he needed the toilet (No. 2) and there was nowhere to go and no cab to be found to take us quickly where we wanted to go.

In spotless Singapore, we had to find some bushes and be as discreet as possible! Anyone with children knows these things happen. 

Onwards we marched, sweat dripping and Jamie and I taking turns carrying Kobra. We passed a doggie day care resort only for Zenchai to remark that Kobra needed to go there for some brushing up - because her hair "was messy like a dog's". 

Finally, we tracked down Fidgets Play Centre at Turf City, a huge shopping complex. Although it wasn't cheap, it was worth it. We hardly saw Zenchai, who in quick time was running around and playing with other kids. Kobra enjoyed it as well. Parents usually take a seat, grab a coffee, read a magazine and let the kids run wild. There are TV cameras to help you locate or observe your child. It was, for want of a better word, mayhem. But this was a Saturday afternoon.

The highlight for Zenchai was getting his face painted - as The Joker! The other children gathered round as Zenchai underwent his makeover. He said he really liked the woman painting him, because she reminded him of his grandmother in England.

"She spoke exactly like grandmere and was the same size," he said. 

But for someone not wanting attention, Zenchai sure attracted a lot of glances, particularly on the train on the way back to our hotel and a shopping mall at Clementi Station, where we stopped for dinner. As soon as he returned to the hotel, he had me wipe off the paint. 

The next morning for breakfast we set off to Little India, where Zenchai polished off a Masala Dosai. He'd missed them since leaving Kuala Lumpur. We found a place which offered quality food for excellent prices.

On the way back to our hotel on foot we passed a giant supermarket - the type that sold absolutely everything. If the durian was our purchasing disaster of the weekend, buying some clippers to cut Zenchai's hair was the greatest deal. For the equivalent of a few haircuts (£7.50), I came out of the store with a fine electrical appliance.

I left Jamie and the kids at a playground while I returned to the hotel to prepare for my test. I met up with them later and we headed off into the Arab quarter for some dinner. More disappointment: no falafel; moussaka that was plain and didn't have the advertised chick peas; ran out of pita bread; inflated prices etc. 

The night wasn't over. We went to bed, but at 2.30am while everyone was fast asleep, I tiptoed around the room to get dressed and went around the corner from our hotel to watch England's exit on penalties (again) from the Euro 2012 against Italy. 

It was around 5am when I returned to sleep. Singapore was still pretty busy. I took Zenchai out for some coconut water and flesh for breakfast and then strolled with the kids around the block while Jamie did the packing.

Little did I know I was wondering through a red light district. Prostitutes were all over the pavement and they swarmed over Kobra, pulling at her little cheeks and trying to take her away from me for a cuddle. Quickly, I got her out of there. Zenchai reacted angrily when they tried approaching him. Too much attention for the kids. It was time to head out of town.

Jamie had finished packing. We walked to the train station and then headed to the airport, let the children play for a while at the many excellent kids' facilities, got some food and checked in.

We flew to Bangkok airport, which was busy, and had time to kill. Although the clouds gathering outside looked stormy, I suggested we head into the sprawling city by train for some food. First we checked in and it was laughable to see the line of passengers at the next kiosk heading to Chennai, India - all with flat screen TVs!

It took about 40 minutes in and 40 minutes out by train. It was raining so hard that we couldn't really go anywhere. We purchased some food (but could find nowhere to eat it) and turned around. By then the trains were packed. That was our experience of Bangkok. 

By the time we reached the airport again it was nearly time to board. We scoffed down our food and headed through security, which is where the raw almond butter (mentioned earlier) comes in.

We'd bought a nice, big jar in Kuala Lumpur, because we can't find it in Chiang Mai. But security in Singapore deemed it a liquid and said we couldn't bring it through.

We'd carried it in our hand luggage from Kuala Lumpur, so thought nothing of doing the same from Singapore to Chiang Mai.

I could see the fury on Jamie's face when the security man, doing his job, of course, wouldn't back down.

"Don't mess with my almond butter!" told the story of my wife's painful expression. But he took it from us and, without waiting for us to go out of sight, dropped it into a bin. Ouch!!

"Do you realise how expensive that is?" said Jamie. 

That was the final straw to what was becoming an arduous journey. It was late when the plane touched down in Chiang Mai. Zenchai had shuffled in his seat like he'd dropped a jar of ants down his shorts. We were relieved to get off the plane. 

Our car was in the car park. We located it (eventually), paid 1,000 baht (£20) and headed home. 

As we drove, listening to Cat Stevens for about the 1,000th time, I remarked how great it was to live so close to the airport - about 10 minutes. Getting to the apartment was effortless, which is more than can be said for the rest of our adventure. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chiang Mai: UFO Sightings Or What?

 

I WAS reading Zenchai his bedtime stories when Jamie came into the bedroom and, with Kobra on the breast and asleep, whispered to me to come out.

I put down the book and Zenchai, curious of course, followed me out. "Look at the sky," Jamie said. We did. And we saw these strange orange lights, one by one, travelling across the city in what seemed like a formation of some kind.

Immediately, I thought about what they could be. Aeroplane? Balloon? Helicopter? But the shapes and movement didn't fit any of the aircraft that sprang to mind. I'd never seen anything like it.

The light of all the aircrafts were bright and larger than you would see on any aeroplane. Each one looked identical, like tiny moons and all bright orange. And there was absolutely no sound, which ruled out a helicopter or plane or there being a spotlight. 

So we continued watching, feeling puzzled yet intrigued. About a dozen or more went through the sky at decent speed and then disappeared into the distance, high and far. 

 

UFOs? I'd never seen one before. But this fitted the description perfectly. They were flying objects and I could not identify them. And when I started researching a little on the internet, I discovered that over the past decade or more quite a few reports of similar sightings in or around Chiang Mai had been filed. And these type of sightings are cropping up everywhere and have been for ever since I can remember.

I tried filming what I saw with my camera, but it was much too dark (as you can see from the uploaded video). My equipment is not sophisticated enough and I was too far away. But the vision remains clear in my mind. 

What this all means I have no clue. But the owner of the house in which we lived had warned us about UFO sightings and, to be honest, I just shrugged it off at the time.

What we saw, though, took place on a Saturday night around 8.30pm and directly over Chiang Mai. Surely we couldn't have been the only ones to have seen it?

 

Penang, Malaysia: Missing The X-Factor

WE have been to destinations with high expectations and come away disappointed. Conversely, we've visited some places with no intention of lingering and been pleasantly surprised. The trick, I think, is to keep expectations low. Like going to the movies to watch a film everyone is raving about - your hopes tend to get inflated. Best not to read too many reviews and go with an open mind. 

Penang, an island off the coast of Malaysia (though a part of Malaysia), has long been on our list of places to visit and explore. We know people who live here and love it (ie good reviews). And we wanted to test it out for ourselves. 

You can read and research destinations as much as you like, but you can't ever be sure of the X-factor - the only way is to make a visit in person.

I knew, though, from the moment I stepped out at Penang airport it wasn't for me. Don't ask me how I knew. I just felt it energetically. But I didn't say anything (immediately) to Jamie or the kids. 

We headed to Batu Ferringhi, a beach area in the north, to set up base. Our intention was to lodge at a guesthouse for a few nights and, as best we could, search for an apartment rental with a view to staying for several months.

But I didn't have the urge to stay and neither, really, did Jamie. But we thought we'd still try. Sometimes locations can grow on you.

The trouble for us in Penang was two-fold: (1) finding an apartment wasn't straightforward and landlords wanted tenants for a year (2) Batu Ferringhi, while touristy, is remote and spread out and we needed a car to get around. Public transport isn't like in Kuala Lumpur.

There are very few real estate agents like you find, for instance, in the UK. You can't visit a neighbourhood, step into the office of a letting agent, look at his list of accommodations and ask to view them. It just doesn't work that way in Penang. To find accommodation you answer local adverts, find a reliable agent by phone or internet or visit condos or areas you like and then ask around. Hardly anyone ever responds to emails either. It's seriously time-consuming and, with kids in tow, hard work - not to mention really boring for the youngsters.

As for transport, hiring a car long-term was beyond our budget. We did so for a short period and drove around, but still were not moved to make Penang our home, even for a short period. It didn't tick our boxes. 

The beaches were, to be blunt, fairly average. They weren't clean and after getting stung by a jellyfish within seconds of entering the water, I wasn't too enthralled with the idea of encouraging Zenchai and Kobra to take a dip, even if the ocean temperature was beautiful. It's a pity.

Without a hire car, we would have been at the mercy of the local (and erractic) bus service. With a car, though, we got to see a fair chunk of the island. We explored other areas as a potential base, but nothing suited us. 

After some discussion, Jamie and I opted to move on, using the theory that making a decision is better than taking no decision. The idea is to keep moving forwards - somewhere - regardless of the outcome. It all works out in the end.

I referred to a message Jamie received on Facebook, where a friend of hers asked if she was following her 'list' rather than her 'bliss' and it was a fair point.

We quickly opted to head by bus (four-and-a-half hours) to Kuala Lumpur, where we'd been previously and enjoyed, to try our luck there. 

 

 

 

 

Singapore: Flying Into The Future

CHANGI airport has a glimmering, expansive and futuristic feel to it that almost takes your breath away. So immaculate and space-age like, it's as if the Singaporians have thought of everything.

If there is a ever an airport to be stranded at, especially with kids, Singapore is the one.
Just so happened that I was travelling alone. But there's a play area, family zone and toys and books section, not to mention an entertainment deck and baby-care room.

For adults the list is even longer, from spas and massages to strolling through one of five gardens, taking a plunge in the rooftop swimming pool, TV lounges, business centres and 500 free internet stations.

Singapore is a busy airport with 301,711 flights in 2011 - one  every 100 seconds!

That said, Changi is so big and organised you don't feel as if you can't move and the queues were not excessive when I travelled.

On my journey out of Singapore (to Penang), I was so sweaty walking to the train station from my hotel and getting to the airport in the middle of the day that I needed to take a shower.

Luckily for everyone on my flight, Changi had the facilities. It cost S$8.50 (£4.25), but you get a towel and luxury service. If you wanted - and had the time and budget - you could throw in a massage or spend time in a jacuzzi.

Needless to say that when I arrived  at Changi from Chang Mai (which, comparatively, seemed like another world), I was spoiled for choice as to how to further my journey into the city.

My options were the airport shuttle/limousine ($45-50), car rental, taxi ($18-38), train ($1..40-$2) or bus (under $2). The exchange rate is roughly $2 for every pound.

I opted for the train. And, as I suspected would be the case, it was immaculate, efficient and cheap.

I noticed the penalty signs for smoking ($1,000) and eating or drinking ($500) and wondered whether leaving my fingerprints on the pole I was holding on to would be a violation of one kind or another.

There were even arrows on the floor as you wait to board the train, telling those getting on where to stand and those disembarking (or 'alighting' as they like to say here) where to go.

As I headed out of the airport, though, everything started to go downhill, metaphorically speaking, of course.

Lugging my heavy rucksack on my back and carrying the other over one shoulder, I emerged from the train station nearest my lodging and searched in darkness for my road.

Although it happened to run by the train stop, there was no indication of which way the numbers ran or which direction I should head. I asked a few people, but no-one seemed to know. So I took a wild guess and, in the humidity, lumbered on.

After about 10 minutes and with no hotel in sight, I took a detour to find a taxi. I stood on a busy street corner and flagged down whatever cabs came my way.

Having recently been in India, where taxi drivers will do anything for your business, I was surprised when six taxis stopped and each refused my custom, using excuses like 'I don't know where it is'.

Eventually, one driver did tell me where to go, but, bizarrely, showed no interest in driving me. I walked on another 800m, through a vibrant (mostly Chinese) restaurant area. The pavements were packed with diners, and I passed by durian stalls displaying more of these giant-sized, prickly fruits than you could possibly count.

By the time I arrived at my hotel I was so hot that I feared a local might make a citizen's arrest for me dripping my sweat all over the pavement.

I checked in to my soul-less 'room without a view' and tried taking a shower, but it didn't work (I got it going eventually the next day) and, given the lateness of the hour and my hunger levels, had a quick wash and ventured out to eat.

I settled for a couple of coconuts  (juice and flesh) for an expensive $8 and headed back for a night's rest to see what this sprawling city would bring me in the day time.

 

India: Goodbye - For Now

OUR time in India came and went so quickly it felt as if we were leaving just as we were getting started.

Kerala was supposed to be an introduction for us and as with any introduction there follows a chapter or two or three….So I suspect we will be back one day. When and where I have no clue. But India is such a gigantic country that there are endless territories to explore and possibilities for adventure. 

We all enjoyed our time here. The people, so colourful and full of character, were on the whole very gentle, welcoming and friendly. The food was delicious, plentiful and incredibly affordable (compared to Europe). The towns were noisy and calamitous - yet full of life, commotion and, sadly, pollution and litter.

Nonetheless, there is so much more to this country that one day I would like to see, discover and experience.

India, though, really is one of those places where you couldn't ever be sure what you were going to see next. A local had told Bob Lesson, our friend from London, about the expression "Things like that happen in India." And, really, just about anything can occur.

As with all the countries we have visited, we met many wonderful, interesting and inspiring people, but in India, more so than almost any other nation, there was more ease with which to strike up a conversation with strangers, be they natives or visitors.

We had some adventures and many memorable moments. Kobra finally started walking with more confidence and has barely had to wear shoes since birth 10 months ago. Zenchai's swimming came on in leaps and bounds and he also loved driving tuk-tuks, taking his first ride on the back of a motorbike, steering a houseboat on the backwaters in Alleppey and eating Masala Dosas for breakfast. I could see Zenchai beginning to regain some confidence in himself and in dealing with strangers (which he often doesn't enjoy).

We got to spend time with Bob and it's always a joy to share our travels with people we know - and miss - from 'home'.

Though it felt like we saw so much, in reality it was so little - just a microscopic taster of Indian life. Kerala isn't, I am told, like the rest of India. 

Varkala Beach was perfect for our children. The weather was incredible - sunshine every day without fail. We shall miss the friendly attention of the Indian people and their beaming smiles and head wiggles as well as being able to take our kids to the beach each day. 

Next we're off (briefly) to Malaysia and then to Thailand - a new frontier to explore and enjoy.