Abrams Family World Travel

World Travel: Our Favourites - Three Years On

AT the end of our first year of travel, we posted a blog about our favourite spots - places, restaurants, beaches, parks and hotels, locations we’ve travelled to (including before our journey began) and have no trouble recommending. Now that over three years have passed since we started our adventure, we thought it would be a good time for an update.

Places

1. Vancouver, Canada: This city on North America's west coast offers a bit of everything. It ticked a lot of boxes for us. Nearby there's snow and beach for starters. There's an excellent public transport system, a fantastic range of organic/healthy produce, lots to do and see socially, the people are friendly, there's a large alternative schooling community, it's relatively safe and, for Canada, the weather is on the mild side. The only downside was the cost of property and renting. Otherwise, we really loved it - a lot!

2. Napier, New Zealand: Known as the 'Art Deco Capital of the World', this town on the north island is incredibly pretty. There's ocean, stunning surrounding mountains, hiking trails, wonderful rivers, clean parks, loads to do and see, little, if any, traffic, clean air and not lacking anything that we'd want in a big city.

3. Kukljica, Croatia: This little village on the island of Ugljan, across the water by ferry from Zadar, is a magical place for us. It's where I spent much of my childhood during the hot summer months. The Adriatic Sea is gorgeously salty and blue. The village has charm and lots of beautiful, though mostly rocky, bathing spots. It's wonderful during the hot season, but can be harshly cold in the winter.

4. Edinburgh, Scotland: Nice for walking, plenty to see, close to the coast, variety of restaurants, compact.

5. Lisbon, Portugal: Amazing architecture, lovely climate, great squares, economical and efficient public transport.

 

Beaches

1. Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica: Long stretches of sand without a person in sight or litter, stunning sunsets and perfect sea temperatures

2. Whale’s Tail, Costa Rica: Set in a National Park, with impressive caves you can walk through, great sand and warm seas

3. Los Frailes, Ecuador: Clear water, secluded, perfect waves, clean sand, sea temperature consistently good. All it’s missing is some shelter from the scorching sun and somewhere for refreshments (make sure you bring your own!)

4. Englishman’s Bay, Tobago: Long, intimate stretch of beautiful sandy beach with palm trees and clear green water, just where you’d imagine Robinson Crusoe making his base. There’s a shop and café on site also (not built by Crusoe, by the way).

5. Piracanga, Bahia, Brazil: We stayed here for more than 10 months in 2011. We lived practically on the doorstep of miles of vacant sandy beach. The ocean here, while often quite strong, was nearly always the perfect temperature and the sand ideal although we did have to lookout for troublesome little flees. www.piracanga.com

 

Restaurants

1. Napfenyes Etterem, Budapest: So good we ate there every day on our short stay, sometimes twice in a day. Great menu, nice staff. Almost too many delightful dishes, making our choice so much tougher (hence the reason we kept coming back) Rózsa u 39, District VII, Budapest 1077 +36-1-3135555. http://www.napfenyesetterem.hu/

2. Pure Food & Wine, Manhattan, New York: Somewhat pricey, but worth it, if only for the scrumptious desserts. Formal vegan restaurant with raw options. Jamie can't wait to get back there. www.oneluckyduck.com 54 Irving Place New York, NY 10003-2314 Tel: (212) 477-1010

3. Terra, Lisbon, Portugal: Fabulous buffet spread when we visited over seven years ago. Food is fresh and the ginger juice, though laced with sugar, so refreshing. www.restauranteterra.pt Príncipe Real, Rua da Palmeira 15, 1200-311 LISBOA, Portugal Tel: 213 421 407

4. Tiestos, Cuenca, Ecuador: Delicious food delivered in a large tagine (tiesto). The chef can make almost whatever you like and uses his ingredients so perfectly. A hit every time. Juan Jaramillo 7-34, City Centre, Cuenca, Ecuador

5. Buenos Aires Verde, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Outstanding organic vegetarian nosh, always beautifully presented, fresh and nutritious. Plenty of vegan and raw vegan options. Lovely setting, relaxed atmosphere and genuine staff. There is a menu in English. Try the salads, pizza, deserts and smoothies. Reasonably priced as well, especially when compared to most organic raw food/vegetarian restaurants. Gorriti 5657, Buenos Aires. http://www.bsasverde.com/index_en.html. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-0.30am.

 

Parks

1. KL City Park, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: Bang on the doorstep of the Petronas Towers and an enormous shopping centre is a large fountain which backs on to a great park. Whether it's jogging, walking, kids play or splashing in water, this park has it all. It's where I infamously smashed up my shins doing box jumps on marble columns (I slipped!) We spent countless hours there with our kids in the second-to-none children's play area. 

2. El Retiro, Madrid, Spain: Outstanding and in the city centre (near Retiro subway). Has many jogging paths and exercise areas as well as a lake with boats, cycle routes and quieter, shaded areas to sit.

3. Munich Olympic Park, Germany: By the former Olympic stadium, these manicured grounds near the centre of the city were used for the 1972 Games. The park has a lake and river and is perfect for running, cycling, rollerblading or just strolling.

4. Central Park, New York: At the tip of Manhattan, the park has something for everyone in any season, Great for walking, running, playing sports, rollerblading or just to pass some time.

5. Bosques de Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina: We stayed just a few blocks from this park. I went running there a lot (it can get busy) and Zenchai and I hired bicycles. We also went there for days out in the sun, just to play about on the grass. It's a huge park with beautiful gardens and monuments as well as a lake in the middle where you can rent paddleboats to calmly take in the scenery and relax. 

 

Sites/Experiences

1. Iguazu Falls, Argentina: Truly breathtaking, immense natural wonder on the Brazilian and Argentine border. Well worth the ridiculously long bus journey from Buenos Aires and wait for the lashing rain to subside.

2. Milford Sounds, New Zealand: Spectacular scenery on the South Island, visions I can't imagine you'd find anywhere else all in one place - mountains, lakes, hills...every corner turned delivered something special.

3. Blue Mountains, Sydney, Australia: Down Under's answer to the Grand Canyon. Impressive views, walks and cable rides.

4. El Zapato/Cajon Dam, Capilla Del Monte, Argentina: This site took us by surprise. We were on a walk, looking for the dam and stumbled upon an immense mountainscape that looked like something from 'The Land Of The Giants'.

5. Superclassico Football - River Plate v Boca Juniors: A truly memorable occasion for any footy fan - the biggest rivalry in the Argentine league. Whether it's at the River Plate Stadium, where the 1978 World Cup final took place, or Boca's smaller, but more cauldron-like ground, this is an unmissable fixture, more so for the bristling atmosphere than the football. 

 

Hotels/Hostals

1. Villa de las Aves, Uvita, Costa Rica: Fabulous two-floor house-type buildings with private jacuzzi, kitchens and a communal pool set in grounds surrounded by trees, animals and birds. With delightful owners, too - from Australia and UK, this is a spectacular place within reach of Costa Rica's great beaches. http://www.villasdelasaves.com/

2. Bahia Principe Tulum, Playa del Carmen, Mexico: All-inclusive resort hotel close to crystal clear sea water and private white sandy beaches.

3. Mandala, Puerto Lopez, Ecuador: Immaculately decorated – has so much to offer, like a library, games room, restaurant, gardens and music room. http://www.hosteriamandala.info/

4. Hip Hotel, Maastricht, Holland: Super sleek, funky one-time apartments converted into themed hotel rooms at affordable prices. There’s secure parking also, but at a fee. http://www.st-martenslane.com/

5. Intercontinental, Chicago airport: Comfortable, tasteful and sheek. 5300 North River Road, Rosemont. Tel: (847) 544-5300

 

Children's Activities

1. Parkour, Vancouver: Of all the activities we have introduced Zenchai to, this was the best. He couldn't get enough. What kid wouldn't want to run, tumble, climb, crash, jump and generally have heaps of fun exploring movement? http://www.originsparkour.com/

2. Wall Climbing, Kuala Lumpur: We took Zenchai along to the largest indoor climbing facility in Asia - and it is huge. It's all supervised and, while a little daunting, children get the chance to scale some enormous walls and grow in confidence. 

3. River Play, Piracanga, Brazil: During our stint at an eco village, we lived close to a river, which was perfect for children. Zenchai learned both to kayak and swim here in addition to spending countless hours just playing.

4. Children's Museum, Buenos Aires: Although the cost of entry wasn't low, it was worth it. Children got to role play and dress up to their heart's content. Zenchai used to beg me to take him here. 

5. Waterfall, Chiang Mai, Thailand: This northern Thai city is surrounded by waterfalls of various sizes. We found one on a Sunday afternoon and the kids loved it so much we couldn't tear them away. 

Chiang Mai: Slower Pace Of Life

 

I USED to think the traffic lights in Las Vegas used to take an eternity to change. But I reckon Chiang Mai probably has the record for being the slowest.

Whenever you have an appointment in this town (especially during the busy hours) be sure to leave early or factor in some extra minutes for sitting at traffic lights.

On some days it can take me 30 minutes to complete a journey I'd usually make in 20 with green lights all the way.

 

The longest light change I have encountered is five minutes. But no-one seems to get overly frustrated. It just means the traffic piles up and you pull away from the lights with dozens of motorbikes around you instead of only a few.

Of course, there is a positive to having slow lights. You can be waiting in a long line of traffic and yet still make it through because the lights stay green so long. And it's useful, too, that you can turn left on a red light.

It's all just part of Chiang Mai life. While driving here seemed manic at first, now, after having cruised here a few months, I find it quite comfortable, having got used to the rhythm of the traffic. You have to keep your wits about you as bikes overtake on the inside and out. But, generally, I find that the traffic moves slower than, say, in London. Driving here seems therefore safer and far less aggressive. It's completely tame compared to somewhere like India.

The driving is selfish, though. No-one lets you out. You have to force your way on to the road. And, as a pedestrian crossing a main road, don't expect cars to slow down - even if you are carrying or walking with a young child. Pedestrian crossings don't seem to matter greatly where they are not at a set of traffic lights.

While almost anything goes in India, life on the road seems more orderly in Chiang Mai. You do see motorbikes driving the wrong way on freeways and main roads occasionally. Motorcyclists often ride without helmets and send text messages as they go. And the police don't seem bothered except on days when it's on their agenda. 

Chiang Mai may be Thailand's second largest city, but it feels relatively small to other places we have stayed, like Kuala Lumpur or Buenos Aires. Getting to know the city is quick and easy. And if you get lost it doesn't take long to work out which direction to go. 

The traffic bothered me when I first came here, mostly because we were here during the intense land-burning in March and the volume of cars on the road, particularly during rush-hour, added to the pollution, but now it's just an accepted part of the scenery and lifestyle. 

 

 

When I look at the surrounding mountainscape from our apartment window each day I find it astonishing to believe that on our first visit here the trees and hills were practically invisible (see the contrasting photos above).

For one reason or another, we haven't yet fully explored the beautiful countryside - and there is a lot to see and do. I often wonder what it is that lures people to Chiang Mai and has them waxing lyrical about the place. Easy access to nature from the city is an often-given reason.

We are slowly growing fonder of the city, but so many people we meet who have relocated here describe it in almost-heavenly terms. We shall see if we feel the same in the months to come. 

 

World Travel: 200 Not Out

SO after nearly two-and-a-half years travelling as a family - about 850 days - we have reached our 200th blog.

We've been to many countries and places and often people want to know which ones stand out the most.

I frequently ask Jamie which locations she either misses most or would like to re-visit. Her list is much shorter than mine. 

While we haven't yet found the 'perfect' location and don't even believe such a place exists, here are my top 5 hot spots, in no particular order. 

 

KUKLJICA

A picture-perfect village on the island of Ugljan off the coast of Zadar in Croatia. It holds special memories for us. We lived there for two months in the summer of 2010. We could never get enough of the deep blue Adriatic Sea and local, fresh food. We found the locals so friendly and welcoming. The weather was perfect, too. Jamie doesn't even like me mentioning the place, because she yearns to be there. We shall return one day with Kobra, part of whose named was derived from the village and country.

 

BAHIA

WE lived in Piracanga, an eco village south of Itacare, Brazil, for nine months in 2011. Kobra was born there. That makes the place unique in our memories. Our life there was basic. There were no shops. We made our entertainment by visiting the ocean and river and using what was natural around us. We played on the long, deserted sandy beaches. Sharing a home with us were spiders, bats, a rat and, occasionally to steal our fruit, monkeys. Jamie found our existence there too limiting after a long period. But I miss many aspects of the lifestyle, especially just living in a pair of shorts (nothing else required). Zenchai still talks fondly of the place, too, because he made friends there.

 

BRECON

OUR Christmas of 2011 was spent in the Welsh valleys. We did a stint of house-sitting and looking after cats and ducks in a beautiful cottage. It was mostly cold and wet, but the house was so cosy and the scenery spectacular. We liked the people very much. Both Jamie and I felt a strong affinity for the region. 

 

BUENOS AIRES

THE bustling capital of Argentina is a place I'd like to go back to more than to stay or settle. It has so much going for it - loads of places to visit; lots to do; cheap and efficient transport; lots of restaurants; nice people. I got to know it well during the near-three months we lived there in late-2010/early-2011.

It ranked as one of Zenchai's favourite spots, too, because he loved seeing all the classic old cars scattered on the streets. 

 

VARKALA BEACH

ALTHOUGH we were only in India a few months ago (Jan 2012), I look back affectionately on our time there. The weather was perfect and the people so glowing, inquisitive and almost overwhelmingly friendly and helpful. Being by the beach offered our kids a great playground every day. We felt very safe there. Although it was more touristy than we like and India in general is overpopulated, noisy and polluted, Varkala Beach has a great charm about it. Living and being there is so easy. 

 

World Travel: Is Anywhere Cheap Anymore?

THE question is: is there anywhere in the world that is really 'cheap' to live anymore? And, perhaps more importantly, would you want to live there if there is?

People often refer to Asia as very affordable and there are pockets of places where your money goes really far.

In southern India, for instance, we lived quite cheaply. Our hotel apartment (above) was roughly £5 per day and this was in an upscale resort. That's because in India you can bargain for almost everything.

But elsewhere we haven't found the costs to be equally inexpensive. And I think it's important, too, to make the distinction between travelling solo and as a family. If I were travelling by myself, living in hostels and eating out only for one and at McDonalds (which I wouldn't go near except to use the toilets) or the MSG-laden food hawkers, my daily costs would be reduced substantially. But multiply everything by four if you have a family like mine. You can't really stay in dorms when you have children. 

We are now in Kuala Lumpur, which, when compared to London, is relatively cheap, but not when pitted against other Asian cities we have been to (with the exception of Singapore).

We pay £34 a day for a one-bedroom serviced apartment with a makeshift kitchen. In the developed western world that is a great deal. But in Thailand (Chiang Mai) we were paying about £16 per night. You could find even cheaper deals in CM and if you were by yourself or a smaller family unit - a studio apartment rents for about £10 per night. 

Kuala Lumpur, at least, offers an excellent transport system. Almost each day I commute by train and bus for 90 minutes (each way) to attend my Crossfit class in Petaling Jaya. My transport costs are a mere £2!

We're not convinced either whether eating in saves money when you can, for instance, go to an Indian restaurant for masala dosai and feed the family well for £2.50. 

We don't really go to upscale restaurants. The most expensive it gets for us is when we search out organic restaurants, but even then, when compared to the UK, the prices are far from crazy. The most we've paid for a family meal in KL is £12. 

Back in the UK, we spent on average £113 per week on food when we stayed in Brecon (for Christmas) and £139 whilst in Huddersfield, where we ate in most of the time. Compare that with the average of £114 we spent per week mostly eating out in India. 

So keeping costs down really depends where you are. For us, eating in in England was only marginally more expensive than eating out in India, albeit in a fairly touristy part of India. 

In Thailand the street food is cheap, but (unfortunately) laced with MSG and sugar, so we ended up eating in better restaurants and for more. We ate out most of the time, but also bought lots of fruit and coconuts. You'd be surprised how the costs add up. On average we'd spend about £120 per week on food in Thailand. But Malaysia has been off the chart. 

Our shopping bill at supermarkets in KL can be hefty. As an alternative, I've tried local markets, like Pudu, where you can buy all sorts of vegetables (though the fruit selection is disappointing). I filled a shopping bag for about £8 (mostly veg) and a similar shop in England would have set me back at least £20. 

But supermarkets offer organic produce, which is important to us. Most of the fruits and vegetables in the outdoor markets in KL appear to have been imported from countries like China, where they spray crops heavily.

Although I can get a kilo of fresh lychee for £2 and buy T-shirts for £2, too, a cup of camomile tea at Starbucks in a good neighbourhood will set you back £1.50. On average we have spent over £150 per week in KL. 

Prices for the same product can vary also. For instance, fresh coconuts can go for anything from between 75p to £1.50. It's not outrageous, but more expensive than we paid in Thailand and Brazil (although coconuts in Thailand are far superior in taste).

A whole 1kg durian costs around £2 in KL, a 5.5litre water bottle just over £1 and taxis are good value (though be sure to flag down the red or yellow ones and not the blue taxis, which are exectutive. Tip: make sure the meter is running). 

The cost of going out in KL is hit and miss. Some attractions, like the KLCC play park, are free. Others, like Aquaria, cost me £16 for Zenchai and I. In London, at the Aquarium, it's nearly double and in Florida I found attractions for kids to be really pricey. 

We're heading back to Chiang Mai in Thailand next month, though, because renting an apartment there is cheaper and easier than in Kuala Lumpur. We tried really hard, but couldn't find a way to stay in KL affordably. 

As I wrote in a previous blog, renting in KL is made difficult - almost impossible - for those wishing to stay less than 12 months. 

We couldn't find any reasonable houses or condos, fully furnished and in a safe, clean area near a train station (otherwise you really need a car) for less than £400 per month. Realistically, we were looking at shelling out at least £500. But the majority of apartments go for £500 per month upwards and you can get two/three bedroom places for that amount. In nice areas most people are paying closer to £800-£1,000. 

In Thailand we might end up spending around £300-£400 for lodging, but we'd get even more for our money - greater space and perhaps the use of a pool and gym.

But the downside in Chiang Mai is that there is no metro system - getting around town you have to rely on taxis and rickshaws or hire a moped, which isn't what I want to do with young children (a moped would cost about £300 per month). The traffic is thick and the roads not all built for walking down. We spent about £70 on transport during the month we lived in Chiang Mai. Car rentals are about £400 per month. 

There are always the southern islands of Thailand to visit. But we hear from friends based there that costs are inflated also - mostly because of the rise of tourists willing to pay big bucks and the owners holding out until the off-season.

Of course, there are places to go that won't cost much - even for families, but there's a reason for that: either it's incredibly remote or there's something wrong with it, like ultra polluted or crime-infested. Not everyone wants to take their family to a place like that. 

It's interesting, really, because both Jamie and I have in recent weeks reflected more on our time last year in Brazil, which on the whole is a dearer place to live than in most of Asia. But we found in Piracanga, Bahia, an eco-village by the ocean where it was impossible to be sucked in by consumerism and our outgoings were generally low, that the quality of life (sunshine, beach, river, wholefood diet, living more off the land) was much higher. 

We're not saying we want to return to Brazil or, specifically Piracanga, but it's an example of how getting the balance right can be tough and it often depends on the family's needs and wants. We don't want to be somewhere too remote or basic or, for that matter, in the thick of a bustling city. 

We have been travelling now for over two years and, in terms of affordability and taking into account inflation, the cheapest countries we have visited look something like this (cheapest first): 1. Ecuador; 2. India; 3. Thailand; 4. Brazil; 5. Malaysia; 6. Croatia; 7. Argentina; 8. USA;  9. Uruguay; 10. Western Europe.

 

World Travel: Five Moments To Savour In 2011

  

  

BIRTH OF KOBRA  

 

I feel privileged to have been present – and actively so – when both my children were born. I caught Zenchai. But with Kobra it was slightly different.

 

Although Jamie gave birth to her in the toilet, as she did for Zenchai, she had been in labour mostly by herself for roughly 45 minutes – no more. It was pouring with rain outside the Brazilian beach home where we were living and pitched black.

 

Our midwife arrived in the nick of time and by chance, with Jamie on her knees and ready for Kobra’s arrival. It was a magical feeling and occasion.

 

 

 

  

 

 LIVING ON LIGHT FOR 21 DAYS

 

The idea of going without food for three weeks and both food and water for the first seven of them seemed ludicrous. But I had the most extraordinary time by myself - thinking, feeling, being and without hardly any stress in the most beautiful, natural surroundings in Serra Grande, Bahia, Brazil.

 

Although I lost a lot of weight and strength, I gained so much in terms of perspective, understanding, direction, strength of mind and peace.

 

 

VISITING THE AWESOME IGUAZU FALLS 

 

I’d been saying almost from the time we arrived in Argentina that I wanted to go to Iguazu. I’d seen the photos and felt it was too far to go to not see in person.

 

Because Jamie was becoming more heavily pregnant, I opted to go alone. I took a 16-hour bus ride there and was greeted upon my arrival with a thunderstorm which raged for hours.

 

I got soaked, but the rain soon passed and what I witnessed was absolutely immense. A speedboat journey into the falls was the undoubted highlight of the visit. The same day I headed back to Buenos Aires by bus – taking 18 hours – but it was worth it!

 

 

 

WATCHING ZENCHAI LEARN TO SWIM AND KAYAK BY HIMSELF 

 

Zenchai can be ambivalent towards water. Some days I couldn't get him out of the ocean or river and on others it was painful trying to encourage him to take a dip. He's an extremist after all.

 

In spite of this, we spent many hours together splashing around. It wasn't until late into our eight-month stay in Piracanga, Bahia that Zenchai took an interest in kayaking. Around the same time his swimming seemed to blossom.

 

I don't know if, overall, his confidence was soaring, but after I'd made several failed attempts to teach him to kayak, a few days later I saw him paddling up and down the river like a pro all by himself.

 

And then a matter of days later when Zenchai and I were down by the river alone, he'd made his way across without me. Inexplicably, he jumped in when the tide was rising and current strong.

 

I heard him shout for help, saying his feet couldn't touch the ground, but instead of going under, he was thrashing his arms, freestyle, and staying afloat. I didn't want to panic him by rushing, so walked towards him as quickly as I could. He continued swimming until I arrived. Proud moment.

 

SEEING AND HEARING MY CHILD SPEAK A FOREIGN LANGUAGE 

  

This is nothing new. Children learn to speak new languages all the time. But when I saw and heard it with my own eyes and ears it still felt wonderful.

 

Zenchai spent only three months in a Brazilian school, but he also mixed a lot with native-speaking children.

 

Everyone kept saying when we arrived that he'd be speaking Portuguese in no time, but I couldn't imagine it.

 

However, he transitioned amazingly well and by the time we left Brazil he was singing in Portuguese and using his new language when playing by himself.

London: From Greenwich Market to A Northwood Steakhouse

JAMIE likes to celebrate her birthday and this year was particularly special for her as it fell on 11-11-11. Last year there were just three of us (and Kobra sprouting in Jamie's belly) in Buenos Aires.

Back in London, she wanted to share the occasion with friends. So we arranged it - at Lomito, an Argentine steakhouse in Northwood, Middlesex, close to where we used to live.

First, though, we spent the day at Greenwich Market in south London. Neither of us had been there before. It was easy and relatively quick (though expensive at £8 per adult) to get to by train. Change on the Jubilee Line at Finchley Road for Canary Wharf, walk about 100m to take the Docklands Light Railway to Cutty Sark and the market is about 400m away.

It's a happening place. Zenchai loved it, too, because there were several stalls selling antique toy cars and he got to rummage through boxes trying to find a good deal. He ended up buying a couple of matchbox cars at £1 each and was satisfied with that.

Jamie went there for some vegan cupcakes. She'd read online about Ms Cupcake and thought they would make for a good dessert in the evening at the steakhouse. So we bought one each for everyone invited and a few extra.

They looked great even if they were a bit pricey at £2 each. But, to be honest, they were too sweet. If you need proof, even Zenchai couldn't finish his and what five-year-old turns away a pudding?

However, we did enjoy some Ethiopian nosh for lunch, though there wasn't really anywhere suitable to sit down and eat it, especially as it was so chilly (in the summer you can go to the nearby park). It wasn't what I'd call typical Ethiopian, though. There was so much else (foodwise) on offer that you'd be foolish not to revisit - next time we might try Brazilian, Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Carribean or Italian.

Aside from food, the market is great for arts, crafts, collectables and, as already mentioned, antiques. The stalls change on a daily basis. Check out their website for more details.

We headed back while it was still daylight with, amazingly, the London Underground running without a hitch. Then later in the evening, with Zenchai in bed, Jamie, Kobra and I spent the night with friends dining at a restaurant with a unique atmosphere.

After nearly a year in Brazil, it felt strange getting dressed up in trousers, shirt and shoes!

As for the food, even for non-meat-eaters like ourselves there was plenty to tickle our tastebuds, which is ironic given how I sometimes have a hard time finding something suitable in vegetarian establishments. The food matched the mood and setting. A great time was had and Jamie looked happy, which was the main thing. I won't mention her age, though!

 

 

Piracanga: Anyone For Capoeira?

HANDSTANDS, cartwheels, forward rolls…I couldn't do them when I was a kid and more supple. What hope did I have now?

That was the thought that surged through my mind initially when challenged with the idea of trying capoeira, a traditional Brazilian martial art/dance.

I'd watched it being performed in the squares of Salvador and it being practiced in Buenos Aires, Argentina and on beaches in Ecuador. It looked fun - and amazingly acrobatic at times.

Not being especially flexible, I shied away at trying. Jamie had always wanted to give it a go, but it wasn't possible after she became pregnant and then gave birth to Kobra.

The opportunity to learn the art instead came my way. I said yes, mainly to encourage Zenchai to try. However, I've ended up being a regular and Zenchai, who loves to show off his capoeira skills in the streets, has only dabbled at it.

It's an excellent workout, particularly on the legs and shoulders. Now I am doing cartwheels and high kicks, sort of. Zenchai and I have been going twice a week and we are trying to encourage others in the eco village to participate.

To those who aren't familiar with it, capoeira was introduced to Brazil by African slaves in about the 16th century. There are two main styles, Mestre Bimba, which is more of what I have been taught, and Angola, which is slower and practiced lower to the ground.

The slaves used capoeira as a way of defending themselves but also to keep their morale high and preserve their culture. In 1892 it was even outlawed for 20 years (though some claim it was even longer). The punishment if caught doing capoeira was to have your Achilles tendons severed!

Zenchai and I visited a famous capoeira academy in the old part of Salvador and watched and listened as one of the teachers played music and talked to us.

Capoeira is now a national sport in Brazil although it's not competitive. It feels more like play and the idea is to keep moving - never be a still target.

Usually, you will see demonstrations of capoeira in city squares. Be warned in Salvador, though (especially in the Old Town), that if you try to take photos someone will likely approach you for some money. You may also be invited to participate!

 

 

 

 

World Travel: Lessons Learned from Our First Year

We most definitely live and learn travelling the way we do. Mistakes are inevitable, but also invaluable.

That's why every 'bad' experience we've had has effectively been a blessing. It also doesn't harm to learn from what others have been through. Therefore, we thought we'd share with you what information we think has been priceless or helpful from our first 12 months travelling - advice that would most certainly have shortened our learning curve had we known in advance. 

 

Travelling with the sun

Both Claude and I relish the sunshine. So when we mapped out our itinerary to London, we knew that we wanted to follow the sun and be in places during their summers. However, what we did not consider was how our pursuit of warmth would also empty our pockets more quickly.

While it has been fantastic enjoying over a year of summer-like conditions, it has also meant travelling to places during peak season. Had we thought more deeply about travelling with the sun, we could have timed our arrivals into certain cities/areas just before or after the high season.

Something else that did not cross our minds was how travelling with the sun would effect Zenchai's socialisation with other children. By continuously landing in places during summer time, schools have almost always been closed.

When in small villages, like Kukljica in Croatia, this was not so much a problem as potential playmates by the sea were abundant. But in large cities like Buenos Aires, where children weren't roaming freely, this meant lonely playtimes for Zenchai.

Have at least the first night's stay booked

When you arrive in a new location try to have the first night's accommodation pre-booked. Sometimes there's a temptation to take a chance and see what you can find by wondering around - and that's understandable if you're not sure you want to stay. But we've found this rather stressful, especially if you discover the city or town you intend to stay in is fully booked. It's a real pain, particularly if you have children, to go from one hotel/hostel to another, hoping something is available. Going through Europe by car last summer we found ourselves on a few occasions - tired from a long day of driving - cruising down dimly-lit streets in the middle of the night and knocking on doors to find accommodation. Now we check online with tripadvisor and hostelworld and always read reviews, too. It narrows the choice and you discover feedback on whether a place is noisy, a party hostel, has a kitchen, internet etc. 

Challenge of staying with people

On both Claude's and my top ten memories of 2010 was meeting and staying with friends and family. Those moments of union with loved ones have definitely left a huge impression on our hearts.

However, at times those stays didn't always go without a hitch in the sense that we both have felt uncomfortable in instances where our destiny was out of our control. Being reliant on transport, food or basic necessities has at times made us feel powerless, which can create friction for us.

We have learned that we are far more comfortable in other people's spaces if we are able to cater to our basic familial needs and not having to completely pass the buck to those who host us.

Clothing, toys, books etc

With each leg of our trip we have realised our tendency to over-pack, especially clothing, toys for Zenchai and books. This overindulgence created many anxious moments while we waited in queues at the airport to check our luggage.

Would our bags be overweight - again? This is something we are continually refining and with the impending arrival of our newest family member it is also something we need to perfect sooner rather than later.

Suitcases vs Rucksacks

At the moment we are travelling with two suitcases. My monster pink case and Claude's more sensibly-sized case. However, we have encountered many situations where having a rucksack each would have made for smoother travel.

Manage your money smartly

Travellers cheques used to be the only way to carry large amounts of currency when travelling. Not anymore. In Ecuador, travellers cheques were practically useless. Claude had to go from one bank to another to find someone willing to cash them. We haven't used them since. We opted for the FairFX card. It's simple to top up and all you require is an ATM machine to get your cash. FairFX offer you the option of having your money in pounds, dollars or Euros but don't charge for currency conversions or withdrawals (however, banks in certain countries, like Argentina and Uruguay, do impose a fee per transaction - roughly £3, which adds up). It's also worth noting - and checking - before travelling which credit cards certain countries prefer. For instance, Visa is the favoured card in Argentina. And in some countries, like Ecuador, credit card transactions are minimal, so you need access to cash. Do your homework.

Buy fruit and veg locally 

We do our best to purchase fruit and veg from local markets. The produce tends to be fresher, cheaper and local. It also helps keep them in business. In Marrakech, for instance, the difference in price between the markets and supermarket chains was ridiculous. If you're on a tight budget, it is definitely worth considering.

Check your dates!

Twice we turned up in Buenos Aires on days when the city had practically closed down. Once was a national holiday and on another occasion it was the Census. When you need access to shops - particularly for food - you don't want to be caught out. So before travelling or nailing down your dates, it's worth confirming your arrival dates don't coincide with a public holiday. Don't rely on the travel agent to tell you. 

Driving on slower roads

Tolls in France and most of Europe are really expensive. We couldn't believe last summer how much the cost of driving in Europe had escalated. We came off the toll roads in France, Italy, Slovenia and Croatia several times and, guess what? The experience was much more pleasurable: you get to see the real countryside and villages. You see so much more than when bombing up and down motorways, which tend to always look the same. Though it was much slower, going on the A roads is a lot cheaper. If you're not in a hurry, we'd certainly recommend it. 

Have a sick bag when on public transport

We had several incidents - in coaches, cars, taxis, ferries, aeroplanes - when a sick bag was required and we didn't have anything at the ready. In Ecuador, the taxis and public buses were awful in terms of smooth riding. Zenchai sometimes would throw up within minutes! Some plane rides are rough also. It's just better to be equipped and have plastic/paper bags easily at hand. You won't be sorry. 

Always check pots and pans when renting

It's easy when renting an apartment to look the place over, sign on the dotted line and part with your cash without looking in the cupboards to see what they have provided. Check the details. Make sure the accommodation offers what is being advertised. We got caught out in Cuenca last year when the kitchen didn't even have any gas for the burner! We also had to beg for dishes, chopping boards, knives etc - items you'd think would be standard. Don't assume kitchens are fully equipped. 

Have a camera on hand and spare battery charged

Do you ever find that when you leave behind your camera a photo opportunity presents itself? We do. So we decided that the golden rule is always take the camera - just in case. Better to have it and not use it than to have a once-in-a-lifetime moment pass you by. Charge your spare battery also. We do it almost immediately whenever one of our batteries dies. Having photographic memories is priceless. Be organised. 

Divide and conquer 

Doing everything as a family can be tiring and absorbing. Sometimes we, as parents, need a break - from partners, being parents and children. We learned to split the responsibilities. We still do things together, but, more now than before, also take turns in looking after Zenchai and going on excursions with him. It's made a significant difference and can really help restore some sanity and reduce the demands of being a close-knit family. 

Carry snacks and a pen

With young children - and pregnant women - you can't go far without having snacks. If, like us, your dietary requirements mean you prefer not to rely on junk food and sweets etc, it's essential to do some shopping in advance and get stocked up in case of any emergencies. Kids can quickly become a handful if they get over-hungry, so we try always to remember to pack fruit and snacks or make the effort to find out where there is a food source nearby. A pen can also come in handy. You never know when you may have to jot down some important information. So keep one tucked away in your bag or pocket at all times. 

Do your research when eating out

When eating out, we make sure we've done some investigating first. We use the Happy Cow and Vegan backpackers websites a lot. They are excellent for details on where to eat vegan around the world. We also have our travel guidebooks, that make recommendations. However, don't always trust the information. We've gone searching for restaurants with great reviews on Happy Cow only to find they no longer exist. That's why it's always useful to have a back-up plan. Similarly, guide books are usually a year or so out of date by the time you buy it. Prices can change. We learned the hard way that it pays to check the prices before sitting down. Usually, restaurants will display their menu and prices in the window. 

Buy watermelons whole

There's a good way to check if a watermelon is ripe: put it to your ear and tap it. If it sounds hollow then it's ready for consumption. But sometimes shops and small grocers will sell large watermelons in halves or slices. This can result in a melon sitting out for a while. We had one case in San Marcos Sierras, Argentina, where it was hot and we bought a half watermelon. By the time we sat down to eat it (about 30 minutes after the purchase), it had virtually turned to alcohol. The best way to avoid this is buy them whole or watch them cut a whole one open if you want slices. 

 

Piracanga: Two Weeks In

We have been here only a fortnight, yet have settled in quite quickly. Piracanga has given us what we felt was missing from life in a big city like Buenos Aires: intimacy; clean air; an outdoor life; a sense of community; greater sociability; child interaction for Zenchai; more freedom.

It’s not perfect – and what place is? – but it feels more like home each day. Such a life requires an adjustment, especially when you have arrived from some place busy. You can feel lost in the early days.

Our Romanian friends who live with us call it ‘Piracanga Syndrome’. I didn’t have much difficulty adjusting. After a year travelling, I find it much easier to settle. I enjoy silence and introspectiveness. Piracanga, being so tranquil, has offered me that.

There is nature everywhere. It looks like the Garden of Eden. There is no rush to life. We try not to live by the clock, but, ironically, had to buy one – to ensure Zenchai gets to school on time and we make it for lunch at 1pm and dinner at 7pm.

I’d prefer not eat by the clock, though. Some days I don’t even feel hungry when food is served. But I eat because, for now, the restaurant is our only food source. Next month, when we move into a beautiful house to ourselves, we shall cater more for ourselves.

However, that will mean more frequent trips to Itacare. That’s not a problem, though. The mosquitos are a nuisance, however – particularly for Zenchai. He gets nibbled on every night. They don’t seem to like me as much. And Zenchai can’t stop scratching. That’s the worst part.

Mosquitos are something you have to get used to. This is their land. They were here first. We are the invaders. The other species don’t trouble me at all – even the family of bats that flap around in our bedroom sometimes in the early morning. Actually, I can only marvel at how brilliant they are at flying at great speed in darkness.

Zenchai isn’t scared either. He’s really comfortable outside playing in the sand, bushes and under the trees. This is a world of great discovery for him. And he’s delighted with himself for learning to dive underwater, even if he can’t yet swim.

The river, especially at low tide, is the perfect place to learn. He has found a new friend, a five-year-old girl from Canada. She came at the perfect time, because his other buddy, a young boy from Greece, returned home.

Stella, the girl, is here only for another week. Zenchai will have to grow used to people coming and going. It’s the same for Jamie and I. We have met some fabulous people. There are groups arriving all the time.

At present there is a 65-strong contingent of Moksha yoga teacher trainers. But learning to accept that nothing stays the same is a great lesson in life. If you resist, everything feels much harder. Here, we try to go with the flow, which isn’t the same as conformity, but is about sailing smoothly through what each day brings you, be it ‘good’ or ‘bad’.

I’ve found it easier to devote time and attention to Zenchai. It’s an important time for him, what with starting school and a sibling on the way. He seems more contented than in the city, where he was being dragged around. Here he often goes out and plays by himself and we don’t see him for a long time. He even ventures to school by himself.

We don’t have any reason to worry for his safety. It’s a comforting feeling. That doesn’t mean Piracanga – long-term – is the place for us, but that is the type of environment we have been searching for in order to raise our children. I think every parent would like that.

Talking of ‘our children’, everyone seems to think we are having a girl. The track record in Piracanga suggests that will be the case. Of the eight children born here, the first was a boy and the last seven all female.

Jamie is doing well and was growing so large several people thought she was carrying twins. She is definitely larger at this stage second time around. Three other women are due to birth around the same time in mid-April (two of whom have confirmation they are indeed having girls, too).

The midwife is going to have her hands full!

Brazil: Planes, Pains And Automobiles

SOME journeys go smoothly and some do not. If you travel frequently, as we do, there are going to be occasions when you have disasters.

We had such a trip getting to Salvador in Brazil from Buenos Aires (via Sao Paulo). But, in truth, it could have been even worse.

A night without sleep followed by a day of flight delays can be difficult enough to cope with, but is made even harder when travelling with children.

All things considered, though, we – and, in particular, Zenchai – handled it amazingly well. We’d started at 6am, when rising from our hostel in Buenos Aires, and finished at 12.45am (11.45pm Argentina time), when our heads finally hit the pillows at our accommodation in Salvador.

Our plan to check out of our apartment in Buenos Aires to spend our final night in a hotel (which ended up being more like a hostel) backfired. We figured because of our early start, it would be better to be in a hostel, where they could call us a taxi for the airport (about 35 mins from Palermo) and wake us up.

The latter wasn’t required, though. Our fellow residents made enough noise drinking and talking loudly all night – so loudly they might as well have been in our room!

Although I booked a wake-up call, it never came. So, luckily, we were already up. None of us got much sleep. We’d gone to bed late that evening – after going out for dinner and then packing – and Zenchai took some time falling asleep. He required some waking up, too.

Then, after getting ready in 45 minutes, we headed for the airport in a private car (which turned out, at 125 pesos, to be about the same as a taxi). The driver dropped us off and, two hours before our departure time, we headed inside to check-in for our TAM flight, scheduled for 9.40am.

But when we were asked by a TAM official for details of our flight, she dropped the bombshell – “You’re flight is taking off now. The flight was changed two months ago. Were you not informed?”

To that I replied a big “NO” and calmly asked what our options were. It was 8am and they told us that we would go on a waiting list for the next flight, at 1pm, but there were no guarantees. “Come back at 12pm,” said the supervisor.

We hung around the airport, depleting our food supplies for the long trip, and headed back at noon faced with the prospect of camping out for the 2.45pm flight or, God forbid, the 5pm.

Fortunately for us, TAM put us on the 1pm. But we didn’t have much time after checking in our luggage. We had to be escorted through security and passport control to make it. The flight went without hiccups - until we got near Sao Paulo and the pilot made an announcement in Portugese. I could hear the groans. Then he updated the situation in English.

“The airport in Sao Paulo has been closed due to a severe thunder storms. There are no planes landing or taking off. We shall be in a holding pattern until cleared for landing.”

Although we had time to spare between connections, we still had immigration to clear. We waited around 45 minutes in the sky before touching Brazilian soil.

After getting our passports stamped (no questions asked), collecting our luggage and re-checking it, we grabbed a snack before heading to our gate for the Salvador flight. It was hot and cramped in the waiting area and our situation wasn’t helped when our plane was delayed an hour. This meant we’d arrive in Salvador at 10.45pm (hopefully our ride, organised by the hostel in Salvador, would still be there – we’d sent several emails updating them on our situation).

Zenchai fell asleep towards the end of the plane journey. He was so tired, he just turned to me and said, “I’m going to sleep.” Seldom does he ever say that.

We carried him off the plane, along with our bags. He snoozed until we had collected our cases and were ready to find our ride.

There he (the driver) was, in the crowd of people waiting, holding a sign with my name on it. Moses (his name) had been there since 5pm! Poor guy.

He seemed shocked, having been told to look out for an Englishman. "You look like one of us," was the gist of what he said.

Traffic in Salvador had died down by that time of night. Zenchai nodded off again in the cab and Moses drove us the 30km or so from the airport to the Historic Centre, where we were staying.

By then we were all ready to hit the sack, even if the streets were still lined with party revellers. Zenchai went out like a light. So did Jamie and I.

Our Brazilian adventure had already begun!