Abrams Family World Travel

World Travel: Our Favourites - Three Years On

AT the end of our first year of travel, we posted a blog about our favourite spots - places, restaurants, beaches, parks and hotels, locations we’ve travelled to (including before our journey began) and have no trouble recommending. Now that over three years have passed since we started our adventure, we thought it would be a good time for an update.

Places

1. Vancouver, Canada: This city on North America's west coast offers a bit of everything. It ticked a lot of boxes for us. Nearby there's snow and beach for starters. There's an excellent public transport system, a fantastic range of organic/healthy produce, lots to do and see socially, the people are friendly, there's a large alternative schooling community, it's relatively safe and, for Canada, the weather is on the mild side. The only downside was the cost of property and renting. Otherwise, we really loved it - a lot!

2. Napier, New Zealand: Known as the 'Art Deco Capital of the World', this town on the north island is incredibly pretty. There's ocean, stunning surrounding mountains, hiking trails, wonderful rivers, clean parks, loads to do and see, little, if any, traffic, clean air and not lacking anything that we'd want in a big city.

3. Kukljica, Croatia: This little village on the island of Ugljan, across the water by ferry from Zadar, is a magical place for us. It's where I spent much of my childhood during the hot summer months. The Adriatic Sea is gorgeously salty and blue. The village has charm and lots of beautiful, though mostly rocky, bathing spots. It's wonderful during the hot season, but can be harshly cold in the winter.

4. Edinburgh, Scotland: Nice for walking, plenty to see, close to the coast, variety of restaurants, compact.

5. Lisbon, Portugal: Amazing architecture, lovely climate, great squares, economical and efficient public transport.

 

Beaches

1. Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica: Long stretches of sand without a person in sight or litter, stunning sunsets and perfect sea temperatures

2. Whale’s Tail, Costa Rica: Set in a National Park, with impressive caves you can walk through, great sand and warm seas

3. Los Frailes, Ecuador: Clear water, secluded, perfect waves, clean sand, sea temperature consistently good. All it’s missing is some shelter from the scorching sun and somewhere for refreshments (make sure you bring your own!)

4. Englishman’s Bay, Tobago: Long, intimate stretch of beautiful sandy beach with palm trees and clear green water, just where you’d imagine Robinson Crusoe making his base. There’s a shop and café on site also (not built by Crusoe, by the way).

5. Piracanga, Bahia, Brazil: We stayed here for more than 10 months in 2011. We lived practically on the doorstep of miles of vacant sandy beach. The ocean here, while often quite strong, was nearly always the perfect temperature and the sand ideal although we did have to lookout for troublesome little flees. www.piracanga.com

 

Restaurants

1. Napfenyes Etterem, Budapest: So good we ate there every day on our short stay, sometimes twice in a day. Great menu, nice staff. Almost too many delightful dishes, making our choice so much tougher (hence the reason we kept coming back) Rózsa u 39, District VII, Budapest 1077 +36-1-3135555. http://www.napfenyesetterem.hu/

2. Pure Food & Wine, Manhattan, New York: Somewhat pricey, but worth it, if only for the scrumptious desserts. Formal vegan restaurant with raw options. Jamie can't wait to get back there. www.oneluckyduck.com 54 Irving Place New York, NY 10003-2314 Tel: (212) 477-1010

3. Terra, Lisbon, Portugal: Fabulous buffet spread when we visited over seven years ago. Food is fresh and the ginger juice, though laced with sugar, so refreshing. www.restauranteterra.pt Príncipe Real, Rua da Palmeira 15, 1200-311 LISBOA, Portugal Tel: 213 421 407

4. Tiestos, Cuenca, Ecuador: Delicious food delivered in a large tagine (tiesto). The chef can make almost whatever you like and uses his ingredients so perfectly. A hit every time. Juan Jaramillo 7-34, City Centre, Cuenca, Ecuador

5. Buenos Aires Verde, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Outstanding organic vegetarian nosh, always beautifully presented, fresh and nutritious. Plenty of vegan and raw vegan options. Lovely setting, relaxed atmosphere and genuine staff. There is a menu in English. Try the salads, pizza, deserts and smoothies. Reasonably priced as well, especially when compared to most organic raw food/vegetarian restaurants. Gorriti 5657, Buenos Aires. http://www.bsasverde.com/index_en.html. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-0.30am.

 

Parks

1. KL City Park, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: Bang on the doorstep of the Petronas Towers and an enormous shopping centre is a large fountain which backs on to a great park. Whether it's jogging, walking, kids play or splashing in water, this park has it all. It's where I infamously smashed up my shins doing box jumps on marble columns (I slipped!) We spent countless hours there with our kids in the second-to-none children's play area. 

2. El Retiro, Madrid, Spain: Outstanding and in the city centre (near Retiro subway). Has many jogging paths and exercise areas as well as a lake with boats, cycle routes and quieter, shaded areas to sit.

3. Munich Olympic Park, Germany: By the former Olympic stadium, these manicured grounds near the centre of the city were used for the 1972 Games. The park has a lake and river and is perfect for running, cycling, rollerblading or just strolling.

4. Central Park, New York: At the tip of Manhattan, the park has something for everyone in any season, Great for walking, running, playing sports, rollerblading or just to pass some time.

5. Bosques de Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina: We stayed just a few blocks from this park. I went running there a lot (it can get busy) and Zenchai and I hired bicycles. We also went there for days out in the sun, just to play about on the grass. It's a huge park with beautiful gardens and monuments as well as a lake in the middle where you can rent paddleboats to calmly take in the scenery and relax. 

 

Sites/Experiences

1. Iguazu Falls, Argentina: Truly breathtaking, immense natural wonder on the Brazilian and Argentine border. Well worth the ridiculously long bus journey from Buenos Aires and wait for the lashing rain to subside.

2. Milford Sounds, New Zealand: Spectacular scenery on the South Island, visions I can't imagine you'd find anywhere else all in one place - mountains, lakes, hills...every corner turned delivered something special.

3. Blue Mountains, Sydney, Australia: Down Under's answer to the Grand Canyon. Impressive views, walks and cable rides.

4. El Zapato/Cajon Dam, Capilla Del Monte, Argentina: This site took us by surprise. We were on a walk, looking for the dam and stumbled upon an immense mountainscape that looked like something from 'The Land Of The Giants'.

5. Superclassico Football - River Plate v Boca Juniors: A truly memorable occasion for any footy fan - the biggest rivalry in the Argentine league. Whether it's at the River Plate Stadium, where the 1978 World Cup final took place, or Boca's smaller, but more cauldron-like ground, this is an unmissable fixture, more so for the bristling atmosphere than the football. 

 

Hotels/Hostals

1. Villa de las Aves, Uvita, Costa Rica: Fabulous two-floor house-type buildings with private jacuzzi, kitchens and a communal pool set in grounds surrounded by trees, animals and birds. With delightful owners, too - from Australia and UK, this is a spectacular place within reach of Costa Rica's great beaches. http://www.villasdelasaves.com/

2. Bahia Principe Tulum, Playa del Carmen, Mexico: All-inclusive resort hotel close to crystal clear sea water and private white sandy beaches.

3. Mandala, Puerto Lopez, Ecuador: Immaculately decorated – has so much to offer, like a library, games room, restaurant, gardens and music room. http://www.hosteriamandala.info/

4. Hip Hotel, Maastricht, Holland: Super sleek, funky one-time apartments converted into themed hotel rooms at affordable prices. There’s secure parking also, but at a fee. http://www.st-martenslane.com/

5. Intercontinental, Chicago airport: Comfortable, tasteful and sheek. 5300 North River Road, Rosemont. Tel: (847) 544-5300

 

Children's Activities

1. Parkour, Vancouver: Of all the activities we have introduced Zenchai to, this was the best. He couldn't get enough. What kid wouldn't want to run, tumble, climb, crash, jump and generally have heaps of fun exploring movement? http://www.originsparkour.com/

2. Wall Climbing, Kuala Lumpur: We took Zenchai along to the largest indoor climbing facility in Asia - and it is huge. It's all supervised and, while a little daunting, children get the chance to scale some enormous walls and grow in confidence. 

3. River Play, Piracanga, Brazil: During our stint at an eco village, we lived close to a river, which was perfect for children. Zenchai learned both to kayak and swim here in addition to spending countless hours just playing.

4. Children's Museum, Buenos Aires: Although the cost of entry wasn't low, it was worth it. Children got to role play and dress up to their heart's content. Zenchai used to beg me to take him here. 

5. Waterfall, Chiang Mai, Thailand: This northern Thai city is surrounded by waterfalls of various sizes. We found one on a Sunday afternoon and the kids loved it so much we couldn't tear them away. 

World Travel: Wherever We Lay Our Hats...

HERE'S a question we get a lot (and for obvious reasons): "So, where's home?"

We've been travelling so long that we don't really know. Often we say, "wherever we are". And that's the truth. Home is where we (as a family) are. We don't own a house and Kobra, for instance, hasn't lived anywhere for more than six months. 

This year, travelling mostly through Asia before getting to Australia and then New Zealand, we have had to relocate 35 times!

We've stayed in hostels, houses, concrete apartment complexes without views, boats, tents, campervans, resorts, hotels, homestays and with family, strangers and friends. 

It's been an interesting year, starting in India, finishing in New Zealand, taking in Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia and Australia in between. We have met many amazing people, forged some strong friendships, faced many challenges and learned some incredible lessons.

So we thought we'd make the rest of this blog somewhat visual, showing the places we have stayed, and thanking you all for following and sharing in our journey. 

First port of call, Varkala Beach in India

Preparing for sun and beach on our balcony

  In search of a better deal, we find a new apartment

  And then, for a great price, a resort with a pool

  An excellent hostel in Alleppey, recommended by Lonely Planet

Followed by a night on the backwaters

  In Fort Cochin, the night Liverpool win the Carling Cup

Stopping over in Kuala Lumpur for a few nights

From one hotel to another - in Chiang Mai, Thailand

The Greenhill apartments in Chiangers - and lobby transport

Penang beach living in Batu Ferringgi, but it doesn't work out for us there

We head by coach to Kuala Lumpur for a spot of apartment-sitting in Bangsar

Renting nine floors up in Chan So Lin, Kuala Lumpur

In Subang Jaya to take care of cats

House sharing off the beaten track as we return to Chiang Mai

Birthday celebrations in a seventh-floor Chiang Mai apartment

A weekend in Singapore, where we got ripped off buying durian

A stopover in scorching Phuket on our way to Bali


 

A couple of nights by a main road and with noisy neighbours in Ubud

Renting a two-story home in Ubud for £10 a day

House-sitting and caring for a dog, rabbits and a chicken in the stunning Blue Mountains outside Sydney

 A townhouse in the Sydney suburbs

 Campervanning our way to Melbourne from Sydney

Magical sunset in Bonbeach, a stone's throw from where we stayed

  Camping by the beach in Mornington, near Melbourne 

Pretty cool, family-friendly hostel in Parnell, Auckland

  A family home in Auckland, caring for a dog and two cats

 

Ubud: Driving Rules? There Are No Rules

MY heading is a bit misleading, but there are certain things you need to know before taking to the roads here. Of course, there are rules. It's not complete chaos - like driving in India or Cairo. But at times it feels like it. Actually, most of the time.

It doesn't help most of the roads are so narrow and full of holes and that there are scores of motorbikes, most of which overtake without hesitation on the inside and out. Near-misses are a daily occurrence. Jamie refuses to drive here.

At least the Balinese mostly wear helmets (which isn't the case in Chiang Mai, for instance). But you see three or four people to a bike and sometimes a parent carrying a small child who is fast asleep!

There is plenty of pollution because traffic in the centre can build up. We keep the windows up and AC on when we get into town - even though we dislike using AC. 

But driving in this charming town is made a little harder because our cheap car rental doesn't have much oomph. Just the other day it conked out going up a steep hill. I had to yank up the handbrake and start it up again with a long line of impatient traffic behind me. Even in first gear and with plenty of gas, it choked its way up.

Much of the time our Suzuki feels like a tank. It's not quite swift enough to dodge the barking mutts out in the street, some of whom just laze in the road and don't even move as you approach, which doesn't help when you need to swerve around it and a vehicle is approaching from the opposite direction. Then there are all the chickens, roosters, the pedestrians, children, people carrying large loads…you really need to have your wits about you.

If you get out of town, you might encounter cattle and pigs along the road, too. We've found the signposting in some more remote areas out of town almost non-existent. It's really a case of knowing your geography, having a map and asking directions. But I've been advised to always get a second opinion. Balinese are polite people, so will give you any direction rather than say they don't know.

At major junctions it is not clear who has the right of way. I really couldn't figure it out. In the end, I just forced my way out. Then I read an article from a local trying to make sense of it. She said it's about eye contact! That didn't help me, seeing most cars have tinted windows and motorcyclists helmets. Big trucks and buses usually won't take their turn, so beware!

If a car flashes you in England, it usually means the car is letting you pass. But here it signals the opposite. I got caught out a few times and it's hairy.

And if a car puts on its hazard lights at a junction it usually means the vehicle is going straight and not that it has a problem. 

Parking can be a hassle as well. With the roads being so narrow, you need to find either an official parking spot or stop to the side, leaving enough space for passing traffic. 

Be careful not to go too far to the side on the small side streets, because they all have deep gutters (used for burning litter). Once you're in there, you're not coming out - without the help of a tow truck. I've seen a few motorbikes being fished out.

And in the centre of town, where it's really busy, parking is harder. In some areas if you find a spot (not too difficult early in the day), the chances are you will be charged, though the fee is minimal. Don't bother trying to argue because there are no signs saying you must pay to park. 

However, I did complain when parking at the Monkey Forest for that very reason. Someone just turned up as we left and demanded payment. I told him he needed to inform me in advance and not when I had finished. 

But that's how things work around here. If they can extract another 1,000 rupees from you they will. 

When all is said and done, having a car (even our slow one, pictured above) is better than not having one - unless you are located centrally.

The alternative is taking taxis and, as visitors, we've been overcharged several times. Bargain hard with them. Everyone here seems to be a taxi driver. 

Although I prefer to walk when I can, it isn't always an easy option, particularly in heat and with young children. In places there are no pavements and where there are, often they are horribly uneven. 

Zenchai, for one, prefers getting around by car, but that's because he didn't enjoy the street dogs all barking at him.

The Balinese people aren't so aggressive, though. In fact, they are on the whole very friendly. And even on the roads, it's more a case of volume of traffic and disorder and worn road surfaces than terrible driving which makes getting around feel so perilous. However, my wife isn't convinced about how capable the Balinese are of controlling their vehicles. 

Asia: Close Encounters Of The Animal Kind

I STILL wrestle with my decision whenever I visit zoos. So often the animals look so sad, isolated in cages, appearing painfully thin or bored.

Even under these circumstances, I still wonder whether life for them is better in captivity, where they are (usually) well fed and kept safe, or in their natural habitat, where many species are continually under threat, ironically from us, humans.

However, zoos and wildlife parks offer us the opportunity to see wild animals up close. And in Chiang Mai the zoo is better than most I have experienced. Many of the animals roam freely or in large spaces. 

They have in Chiang Mai a zoo and a popular attraction called the Night Safari (although it is open during the day also).

And our kids have been fortunate to have experienced some intimate, close encounters with animals they would never have seen other than on television or computers or in books and magazines.

Zenchai and Kobra loved feeding giraffes in Chiang Mai, where you can buy food for the animals and hand it to them. 

These tremendously tall creatures with incredibly long tongues literally took food from my young daughter's hands and kept coming back for more. 

The same happened with elephants, those awesome, big animals, though I couldn't help but feel sorry for them having to wear such clumsy, large chains around their ankles.

We saw elephants up close in India, too, where they are 'used' in so many of the street parades.

In Ubud, Bali, our animal experience got even better at the Monkey Forest. Here although the monkeys live wildly in the trees, they are at ease with humans, probably because they are fed by them every day.

They still have to be approached with caution, as do most wild animals, but essentially they are only after your food. And if you treat them with respect (and don't stroke their heads), all should be okay. One or two people did complain of being bitten, though we saw tourists throwing them sweets and other food items clearly not suited for monkeys.

On our first visit we took with us one banana (though they can be purchased at the forest entrances) and almost before Zenchai could take it out of our bag a monkey swooped and grabbed it off him.

I had a unique moment with one infant monkey, though. I just held out my arm high to the side with a piece of food in my palm and the fearless monkey climbed up me and, resting on my hands, happily ate away. At one point the monkey even looked me in the eye and pinched my nose, more out of curiosity than anything else. His padded hands were so soft. 

I think at this point Zenchai could see he had little to fear, especially from the small ones, and he endeavoured to feed them, first picking up pieces of sweet potato that had been chopped and left for them by the forest attendants and then old coconuts.

He had more success with the latter, picking up a shell that had been left aside and then offering it to a larger monkey, who extended his hand and took it for consumption.

This was a real, live and priceless educational experience for my kids - one they could see, smell and feel. 

It wasn't just about being around monkeys and feeding them, but understanding how they live, feed and survive and also how we humans treat and value them. 

Zenchai, as ever, asked many questions, but also liked the monkeys so much that he said he wanted one for himself, which opened up the discussion as to why wild animals are called wild and should remain precisely that. 

Phuket: Quick Dose Of Beach Life

HOW good it felt to be back by the ocean again. We stopped in Phuket for a day to break up our journey from Chiang Mai to Bali. We're glad we did.

The kids played outdoors practically the whole time, but there was a price to pay. The sun was scorching. For the first time ever, Zenchai got mildly sun-burned. In fact, we all did - and it didn't take long. Be warned.

It is said that Phuket has two seasons: hot and wet; and bloody hot! Officially, it was rainy season and our hotel was practically deserted. We had a few trickles of rain, but it was mostly sunny.

We didn't surface until late in the day as we had left Chiang Mai on an overnight flight and arrived in the ealy hours of the morning. We were all tired.

But after breakfast the kids were in the pool, which they had all to themselves. Zenchai swam and entertained himself by making boats from banana leaves and banana flowers, make-believing they were pirate ships.

It felt good to be back by the coast again, even if it was only for a day. 

I took an exploratory walk, to see what the neighbourhood had to offer, which wasn't a great deal.

I noticed, though, from the moment we landed that everything in Phuket is about three times the price it is in Chiang Mai.

Getting a taxi after midnight, when we landed, cost us 400b (£8), the taxi drivers insisting the journey was 15 minutes when it was actually five! But what can you do when there was no alternative?

The next day, as I searched for food and fruit for snacking for our kids, I again noticed the inflated prices - and no fruit shops in sight!

We were staying close to the airport, so the rest of the island, particularly where it is busier, is likely to be different. 

However, the light at the end of this proverbial tunnel I was walking was the golden 
beach. It was about a 15-minute walk from our hotel and the ocean was a beautiful warm temperature and the sand nice underfoot - not too sticky and no glass or sharp objects to be found.

We went there late in the day, around 5pm, when the sun wasn't as fierce - or so we thought. It was still hot even as we played in the water.

Kobra made friends with an older local boy while Zenchai was busy building castles and moats. Eventually, the boy, who barely spoke English, joined Zenchai and they all played together, digging, running races etc. 

They played until the sun went down and it was time to eat. The beach is lined with restaurants and we didn't know which one to choose. We picked one in the end and the food was nice even if the experience was spoiled by insects dive-bombing our table. 

In the dark, we headed back to the hotel, showered up, packed our bags again in readiness for rising at 4am for our flight and hit the sack. 

Chiang Mai: Falling Head Over Heels...Nearly

LIVING in a small apartment with two young children, we need to get out - and often. 

Kids, especially ours, have energy to burn. They need fresh air, active play and some stimulation.

So we try to plan day trips here and there. And one particularly successful excursion was to the Buatong Waterfalls in a national park in Nam Dtok, about a one-hour drive north of the city on highway 1001. It's in the Mae Taeng district.

We looked it up online before going and though the directions seemed somewhat vague, it was easy to find. As directed, it took us one hour. Signs are in English. We turned off the road, parked up and a short walk away were the splendid waterfalls also known as the "Sticky Waterfalls", because of how it feels underfoot, and "Spring of Seven Colours", referring to the colours from the reflection of the sun.

It's a glorious place with plenty to explore and little creatures, like spiders and crabs, all over the place if you look closely enough. 

However, it was pouring with rain when we arrived - it is the rainy season after all - but, luckily for us, the shower was coming to an end. The timing was near-perfect.

Before long the sun came out and we enjoyed the water. Zenchai couldn't wait to get in and took particular delight in scaling the muscular torso of the falls to the top and back down again.

A word of caution, though: some of the rocks, especially where it appears darker, are ultra slippery, almost like ice (most of the falls are safe). I twice went down - and that was treading carefully! Zenchai took a tumble, too. 

Thankfully, with Jamie carrying Kobra, that was the full extent of our mishaps. Otherwise we spent a delightful two hours playing in the gushing falls, which were the perfect temperature. There is more to see, though, like caves and springs. Make a day of it.

Zenchai made friends, too - with a little butterfly that landed on his head and wouldn't budge. Zenchai became quite attached to the insect. The butterfly remained perched there until we reached our car after having walked up the many wooden stairs that run alongside the falls. Then it flew off. You can imagine how a six-year-old with a vivid imagination interpreted the whole episode. Needless to say, though, he's now in love with butterflies.

Entry to the national park is free and it doesn't get too busy. There are toilet facilities and shops selling refreshments. We took our own, as did many other visitors, and preferred to stop on the way home at a roadside market in one of the many villages we passed through to top up our food supplies.

This was a real find for us. It's not especially well known to tourists, but the locals - and monks - go there often. If you get the chance, make the trip. It's worth it. 

 

World Travel: Emptying The Bucket List

WE are soon to be leaving Chiang Mai, Thailand. Our visas are about to expire. We debated about whether to leave and return, thus extending our stay in Thailand, or to visit the local immigration office to pay to have our visas extended or to travel onwards.

Chiang Mai has grown on us. We've made some good contacts and acquaintances and slowly started to enjoy the lifestyle. The cost of living and availability of fresh, organic produce has been a major plus. We will particularly miss going to Crossfit, the daily coconuts and Jamie has enjoyed getting back into yoga. However, we may yet return again.

However, although we have been travelling for more than two-and-a-half years, Jamie and I both have places we would still like to visit, especially on this side of the world.

For Jamie, Bali has always been on her list. And for me it is Australia. 

I've tried to go to Australia before but something has always stopped me - like getting a dream job. 

It's now or never - at least it feels that way. And while we are there it would be criminal not to go to New Zealand, where Jamie has lived before and has many friends. Jamie has also been to Oz several times. 

Our timing, though, could not be worse. Australia is now an expensive place to stay and I thought that we would just not be able to afford it.

But then an opportunity came our way when one of Jamie's Aussie friends offered us the chance to house-sit in Melbourne while they are away on holiday (in Thailand, ironically).

It was too good to pass up. So we are on our way Down Under, landing in Sydney and then, if we can find a deal, taking an RV (campervan) - which is another dream of ours - to Melbourne. But first will stop in Bali for about a month. 

 

 

Pai: A Slice Of Relaxation

SEVEN hundred and sixty two stomach-churning bends later and I was in Pai, a hippy town three hours north of Chiang Mai.

I'd had my fill of sitting, scrunched up and sweating, at the back of a poorly-ventilated mini-van with a driver who, if I didn't know better, had been hired from Ecuador, where they all drive like they are late for dinner.

I should have known what was ahead when I saw the sick bags conveniently placed in front of every seat. But I survived. The discomfort was all worth it and for £3 I couldn't really complain. 

Pai is set amidst trees and sloping green, lush hills. From the balcony of my hotel room, I could see the beautiful landscape and hear the river flowing. This getaway was my birthday gift from Jamie and the kids - yes, time off. The children cried when I gathered my bags and dropped them off at the bus station. But Jamie had felt bad that almost every year my birthday passes as a non-event, so she wanted to do something special. 

Of course, I'd have liked to celebrate surrounded by my family. But being in Pai alone was not only different, but just what I needed.

I'd considered visiting one of the southern islands instead, but didn't fancy jumping on a jet again so soon after our recent escapade to Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and, briefly, Bangkok. 

Full-time parenting is intense and so, too, is regular airline travel. I wanted/needed some reprieve. Pai hit the spot. It's laidback, has plenty to do (hiking, rafting, yoga, swimming, sightseeing etc), there are dozens of vegetarian/organic restaurants to lounge around in, massages to be had, a nice public pool (60baht/£1.10 entrance) and many nearby attractions.

At night there are street vendors selling tasty food and their handcrafted goods. It feels a little commercial, though in a far less intrusive way than other tourist towns I have visited.

Prices are more than reasonable, especially as I was visiting during the off-season when it's not swarming with visitors. I'd certainly consider coming again to Pai, but with the car sick-prone family (if I can get them here without them suffering on the journey) for a longer stay. The cost of renting is far less than in Chiang Mai.

The place reminds me of a cross between Vilcabamba, where we stayed in southern Ecuador, and Capilla Del Monte, the town outside of Cordoba, Argentina where we'd spent Christmas in 2010.

I didn't have enough time in three days to explore all this place has to offer (which is why I would like to return). The options are seemingly endless - adventure rafting, rock climbing, kayaking, mountain biking, zip line adventure, piranha fishing, elephant trekking, hot springs, waterfalls, Pai canyon, temples, cooking courses, markets, Muay Thai boxing, kung fu, tai chi, permaculture courses etc.

I was here to chill out, recharge my batteries and get a feel for the place or else I would have indulged more. I rented a bike (only 70b/£1.20) and cycled six undulating kilometres out of town to the hot springs for a nice soak, taking in some nice views and dodging elephant dung as I went.

The roads aren't especially busy. Most visitors tend to travel by moped and at certain times of day it can become a little congested, though, by comparison, Chiang Mai feels huge and noisy. 

After three days away, Chiang Mai was my next destination. This time I decided to take the local bus (cheaper but slower and longer). There is only one a day - leaving at noon. I got to the bus station early - and waited...and waited.

It did come, eventually. The bus was crammed. I looked for a seat. There were only a few. As I got closer, I realised someone had been sick there. I chose to give it a miss.

So I was back to square one, the mini-van. I got on the next one, grabbing the last available seat, probably the worst spot possible - right beside the driver. My long legs were squeezed into a tight space, shins pressed against the dashboard and my rucksack on my lap. I couldn't move my aching legs as I'd interefere with the driver changing gear. I held this position for the best part of three hours, desperate to get to Chiang Mai, counting down the kilometres as we travelled.

Oh how relieved I was to see the bus terminal in Chiang Mai and Jamie and the kids parked up, waiting. But like most rough journeys home, you feel like you need another break. 

 

 

Crossfit: A Family Affair

I DISCOVERED Crossfit, a high-intensity core strength and conditioning training programme, nearly a year ago. I wish I'd found it sooner.

Despite having been sporty my entire life, nothing has hit the mark for me quite like Crossfit and now I'm a certified Level 1 instructor I want to share the passion I have for sport/staying fit/strong with others. 

It's not for everyone, of course. One reason is because it's seriously hard. Workouts are comprised of weight-lifting, gymnastics and metabolic conditioning (running, cycling, rowing etc). Often sessions include a combination of the three modalities.

The workouts aren't usually too long and they don't need to be. Anaerobic workouts have been proven to have as good as if not a greater effect on aerobic capacity than aerobic training. There's also less wear and tear and little, if any, loss of strength.

I train between five and six times a week. Most of my workouts range between eight-20 minutes in duration, though some are longer, up to 45 minutes. I'm in the gym about an hour, because I warm up thoroughly and then warm down and stretch afterwards. However, some of my warm-ups now are comparable with the workouts I used to do.

I love the intensity and the competition of Crossfit. And I have developed a tremendous admiration for gymnasts and weight-lifters. 

Everyone in the gym is strongly encouraged to have goals. They can be target weights to lift or skills to learn, like the muscle-up, which involves pulling yourself up on the Olympic rings and then performing a tricep dip at the top. That's one I'm still working on.

Often at the end of a training session, I focus on skills. Having never been particularly gymnastic, I love trying to learn moves that have always seemed impossible. But more important is mastering the basics of lifting, pressing and squatting.

At Crossfit everyone usually trains together and there's a lot of help from fellow athletes in terms of motivation and advice. That's far more enjoyable and encouraging than the endless hours I used to spend in globo gyms where you barely even acknowledge others training around you and routines were just that - routine.

I was surprised, though, when Jamie accepted my invitation to try Crossfit. Jamie is a long-time yoga teacher. Though many yoga poses are extremely tough, she admits to not liking intensive work, the type that comes with pushing oneself to the limit and perhaps a hard grunt and groan in the process. 

We joke with each other that she never sweats - even in Thailand (though this has now been disproved). And I often recount the time we once worked out at a YMCA gym in Toledo, Ohio and how she got grumpy whenever I tried to push her to force out more reps.

Now she's at Crossfit Chiang Mai and her name is posted up on the scoreboard each day with her time (for the workout) or weight (for how much she has lifted) or both (if it's that type of workout day). Usually, I go in the morning (as I'm an early bird) and Jamie in the afternoon, so one of us can take care of the children.

I'm proud of her for stepping out of the comfort zone and trying something that is tough and demands hard work. In fact, I admire anyone who sticks with Crossfit. It's so easy to seek something less challenging. Crossfit's definition is "Constantly varied functional movement at high intensity". 

You get reminded frequently that intensity produces results (and power) and week in and week out you are asked to perform strict push-ups, pull-ups, chin-ups, (everyone's favourite) burpees, air squats and then throw in back squats, overhead squats, front squats, push presses, power cleans, snatches, deadlifts, kettlebell swings etc and then some 100m sprints or 5km runs or 1km shuttles. It is "constantly varied" and these are all movements which you use or may end up using on a daily basis. Going to the toilet, after all, involves a squat. Lifting something heavy off the ground would require a deadlift and overhead a press etc. 

Weight-lifting will strengthen bones and gymnastics aid body control, flexibility and balance. Crossfit workouts target also co-ordination, agility, speed, strength, cardio respiratory endurance, power and stamina. 

You won't get bored, but you will get fitter. And often you have no clue what's on the agenda until you walk into the gym by when there's no turning back. 

Don't fear that you will have to lift or push the same as everyone else and be left feeling humiliated or inadequate. The gyms are not at all packed with supermen and superwomen to make you look and feel inferior. Remember that intensity is relative and so workouts are tailored or scaled for safety and to ensure everyone works to a capacity that produces results. 

All the talk of Crossfit in our home has, obviously, got Zenchai interested, too. He sees that I go to the gym almost every day. So on a visit to Singapore recently he had his first session. I took him to Reebok Crossfit Enduro run by Juria Maree, a top coach from South Africa. 

She normally takes a kids Crossfit class every Saturday, but wasn't around the weekend we were there to conduct a class. But she arranged for another coach to come in and hand Zenchai his initiation.

I booked Zenchai in for 9am. Together we marched down there from our hotel. I tried not to say much - in case he got cold feet. But he was fired up (once he woke up). He is so proud of the fact he has a great squat and can stay in that position almost endlessly (like most children can). 

When we arrived at the gym, coach Ubin Khoo introduced himself and took over. He explained clearly to Zenchai what they were going to do and, most importantly, he made it sound like fun.

Ubin had to think on his feet, however. Zenchai's concentration and enthusiasm waned a few times and Ubin had to reignite his interest. He did so by having Zenchai design a course using various gym props and then driving around it on an ab roller. Ubin then challenged Zenchai to do laps and go round even quicker. Then he added medicine balls and Zenchai had to push them out of the way as he drove the roller and then they had a game of skittles using cones. Improvisation whilst maintaining safety and fun was the key. Zenchai, being a car-lover, revelled in it. He turned himself into a vehicle. 

After 30 minutes Zenchai was sweating and so, too, was Ubin. Zenchai felt proud of himself and Ubin was satisfied he had found a way to get Zenchai to lift the medicine balls, which was his target. 

I am not sure when or even if Zenchai will go again. There's no Crossfit for kids in Chiang Mai yet. But we're trying to teach him, by example, about the importance of exercise and a healthy diet. Children need to regularly go outdoors and play and let their imagination run riot.

I was always an active child who played sports, but so many children nowadays, especially with technology games so prevalent and addictive, aren't motivated to go outside and stretch their legs and work their lungs. 

Of course, I can't make Zenchai interested in Crossfit or anything else for that matter. But if he sees his mother and father doing something and feeling better for it, I feel more confident he's going to recognise the value and invest (with time and effort) in his well-being. 

 

 

Asia: Five Days, Four Cities, Three Flights, Two Children, An Overpriced Durian and No Almond Butter!

WE were all relieved to get back to our apartment in Chiang Mai after four days away and time spent in Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and Bangkok.

Zenchai was going stir crazy on the aeroplane back to Thailand. We had a five-hour layover in Bangkok after our Air Asia flight had been cancelled. Tired, hungry and cooped up, Zenchai gave us a testing experience. Kobra slept most of the way. Aeroplanes just aren't designed for young children.

We stopped in Kuala Lumpur the first night as we couldn't get a connecting flight that day on to Singapore.

KL airport is a long way from the city centre. But we elected to use the train instead of taxi or bus or coach (as we'd done in the past). It's far cheaper, more efficient and comfortable. The trains are fast and slick, like in Germany. It made travelling a far more pleasant experience.

Kobra attracted a lot of attention from travellers, many of whom had their picture taken with her like she was some kind of celebrity. It bordered on the ridiculous. 

Zenchai looked on, unamused. He doesn't like the attention he gets in Asia - all the touching without first asking drives him crazy, often quite literally. He is also protective of his little sister.

Anyhow, by the time we arrived in KL city centre, checked-in to our hotel and dropped off our luggage, it was time to head out again. We had a family appointment - a play date for Zenchai with his second cousin at a playcentre in Bangsar Village shopping mall. He had been looking forward to it for ages. Z and his cousin ran around for hours. Money well spent. Zenchai also received a belated birthday gift - a Monster Truck book, which he loved. Afterwards we went for a Banana Leaf dinner after which it was time to head back to the hotel (by train) and then get up in the morning for our mid-day flight to Singapore.

Getting to KL airport was quicker than heading into the city when we arrived. On the train we met a nice English/French-Moroccan family with a young boy. Zenchai wasn't too sociable at first, but later warmed up a bit. 

At KL airport we checked in, grabbed a bite to eat at our favourite veggie Indian restaurant and then waited for our plane to depart. Zenchai amused himself by driving around luggage trollies.

I had been to Singapore before, but it was the first time for Jamie and the kids. As we were about to land, the captain made an interesting announcement, warning against bringing into the country knuckle-dusters, swords, guns and numb chucks! What sort of people go to Singapore, I wondered?

Then, of course, he reminded everyone about the stiff penalty for drug-smuggling - mandatory death sentence. They may as well have added raw almond butter to the list (more on that later).

I had an exam to sit in Singapore, but squeezing in any last-minute revision wasn't easy with a family in tow. Hours after arriving and nursing a deltoid injury, I headed to Reebok Crossfit Enduro for a workout. Some 90 power cleans later my shoulders somehow felt better. Jamie and the kids amused themselves at a park nearby and then in the gym while they waited. Zenchai got creative with all the equipment.

All hungry, we went in search of food. We didn't find eating in Singapore very easy. It's all Chinese, mostly fried, high on meat and starchy carbs and laced with msg. We settled for some veggie soup. Zenchai had a juice and some rice. Then it was off to bed - late - after a long walk in the still-ultra humid conditions.

The next morning I had to wake up Zenchai from a deep sleep. He had a training appointment at 9am at Crossfit. We caught a train and walked the rest of the way. He did some running around and lifting. On the way home, he felt proud - and didn't stop talking about it.

We were all hungry by the time we met up with Jamie and Kobra. But then we made our worst purchase of the weekend. Seeking out durian, I bought a 2kgs one, noticing a sign that said $10 per kilo. I asked "how much?" and the reply came "$14". But it turned out to be "$40" and not "14". By then I had already eaten it. That's a whopping £20 for a durian!! 

To make matters worse, Jamie didn't even like it. 

If it took Jamie and I hours to get over the shock, at least the kids weren't fussed. We decided to seek out a play centre. The hotel gave us directions - by train, bus and then on foot.

We found it - eventually. First, though, we stopped at an upscale restaurant called The Living Cafe that was right up Jamie's street - lots of delicious raw food desserts, but at near-jaw-dropping prices.

We each had a slice and then headed off into the heat on foot with only approximate directions. Of course, half a mile down the road Zenchai decided he needed the toilet (No. 2) and there was nowhere to go and no cab to be found to take us quickly where we wanted to go.

In spotless Singapore, we had to find some bushes and be as discreet as possible! Anyone with children knows these things happen. 

Onwards we marched, sweat dripping and Jamie and I taking turns carrying Kobra. We passed a doggie day care resort only for Zenchai to remark that Kobra needed to go there for some brushing up - because her hair "was messy like a dog's". 

Finally, we tracked down Fidgets Play Centre at Turf City, a huge shopping complex. Although it wasn't cheap, it was worth it. We hardly saw Zenchai, who in quick time was running around and playing with other kids. Kobra enjoyed it as well. Parents usually take a seat, grab a coffee, read a magazine and let the kids run wild. There are TV cameras to help you locate or observe your child. It was, for want of a better word, mayhem. But this was a Saturday afternoon.

The highlight for Zenchai was getting his face painted - as The Joker! The other children gathered round as Zenchai underwent his makeover. He said he really liked the woman painting him, because she reminded him of his grandmother in England.

"She spoke exactly like grandmere and was the same size," he said. 

But for someone not wanting attention, Zenchai sure attracted a lot of glances, particularly on the train on the way back to our hotel and a shopping mall at Clementi Station, where we stopped for dinner. As soon as he returned to the hotel, he had me wipe off the paint. 

The next morning for breakfast we set off to Little India, where Zenchai polished off a Masala Dosai. He'd missed them since leaving Kuala Lumpur. We found a place which offered quality food for excellent prices.

On the way back to our hotel on foot we passed a giant supermarket - the type that sold absolutely everything. If the durian was our purchasing disaster of the weekend, buying some clippers to cut Zenchai's hair was the greatest deal. For the equivalent of a few haircuts (£7.50), I came out of the store with a fine electrical appliance.

I left Jamie and the kids at a playground while I returned to the hotel to prepare for my test. I met up with them later and we headed off into the Arab quarter for some dinner. More disappointment: no falafel; moussaka that was plain and didn't have the advertised chick peas; ran out of pita bread; inflated prices etc. 

The night wasn't over. We went to bed, but at 2.30am while everyone was fast asleep, I tiptoed around the room to get dressed and went around the corner from our hotel to watch England's exit on penalties (again) from the Euro 2012 against Italy. 

It was around 5am when I returned to sleep. Singapore was still pretty busy. I took Zenchai out for some coconut water and flesh for breakfast and then strolled with the kids around the block while Jamie did the packing.

Little did I know I was wondering through a red light district. Prostitutes were all over the pavement and they swarmed over Kobra, pulling at her little cheeks and trying to take her away from me for a cuddle. Quickly, I got her out of there. Zenchai reacted angrily when they tried approaching him. Too much attention for the kids. It was time to head out of town.

Jamie had finished packing. We walked to the train station and then headed to the airport, let the children play for a while at the many excellent kids' facilities, got some food and checked in.

We flew to Bangkok airport, which was busy, and had time to kill. Although the clouds gathering outside looked stormy, I suggested we head into the sprawling city by train for some food. First we checked in and it was laughable to see the line of passengers at the next kiosk heading to Chennai, India - all with flat screen TVs!

It took about 40 minutes in and 40 minutes out by train. It was raining so hard that we couldn't really go anywhere. We purchased some food (but could find nowhere to eat it) and turned around. By then the trains were packed. That was our experience of Bangkok. 

By the time we reached the airport again it was nearly time to board. We scoffed down our food and headed through security, which is where the raw almond butter (mentioned earlier) comes in.

We'd bought a nice, big jar in Kuala Lumpur, because we can't find it in Chiang Mai. But security in Singapore deemed it a liquid and said we couldn't bring it through.

We'd carried it in our hand luggage from Kuala Lumpur, so thought nothing of doing the same from Singapore to Chiang Mai.

I could see the fury on Jamie's face when the security man, doing his job, of course, wouldn't back down.

"Don't mess with my almond butter!" told the story of my wife's painful expression. But he took it from us and, without waiting for us to go out of sight, dropped it into a bin. Ouch!!

"Do you realise how expensive that is?" said Jamie. 

That was the final straw to what was becoming an arduous journey. It was late when the plane touched down in Chiang Mai. Zenchai had shuffled in his seat like he'd dropped a jar of ants down his shorts. We were relieved to get off the plane. 

Our car was in the car park. We located it (eventually), paid 1,000 baht (£20) and headed home. 

As we drove, listening to Cat Stevens for about the 1,000th time, I remarked how great it was to live so close to the airport - about 10 minutes. Getting to the apartment was effortless, which is more than can be said for the rest of our adventure.