Abrams Family World Travel

Napier, New Zealand: Special Place On Planet Earth

WE'VE been travelling now three years and seen many countries. But there haven't been too many where Jamie and I have each felt we would like to stay for, say, more than six months of the year.

But Napier on the north island of New Zealand definitely hit the spot for us. From the moment we arrived by coach, having passed through stunning scenic locations coming down from Auckland, we felt right at home.

It has a bit of everything - the feel of northern California, landscape of Cordoba, Argentina, smells of Croatia, water that looks like the Adriatic, hills to rival Brecon and, in the summer, sunshine like in Greece.

There are vineyards everywhere, the streets are clean, the people nice and friendly, the parks modern and well looked after and the 'traffic' flowing. There are gorgeous rivers where children can play safely. Heck, there's even three CrossFit gyms in the region!

There is no shortage of things to do and see. Excellent beaches are within easy access. There are hiking and cycling trails all over. 

For food, farmers selling fresh fruit and vegetables are abundant. And for shopping, while downtown isn't exactly bustling and huge, there is little that exists in big cities that cannot be found here.

We were fortunate enough to stay here with friends of Jamie's and able to have a good look around. The more we did, the more spectacular it seemed and the more we liked it.

Even the drinking water here is cleaner/safer than elsewhere - no flouride!

In terms of access, Napier lies about four hours-plus from Auckland in the north and about the same from the capital, Wellington, to the south. 

As much as my wife raves about Wellington, Napier has nicer weather (more sunshine) and the ocean waters are warmer, if only marginally so. 

It's a special place on planet earth - at least that's how we feel about it.

Penang, Malaysia: It Had Its Moments

IT wasn't all doom and gloom in Penang. Actually, it wasn't too bad at all - just not what were were after.

It didn't help that the guesthouse we stayed in backed on to a mosque which, every morning at around 5am, called for prayer through a loudspeaker that seemed to go on forever.

Malaysia is, of course, known for it's great food and we got to enjoy some tasty hawker centre meals and, in Georgetown, some fine curries. But Malaysians like their meat and veggie options for us were sometimes limited. Battling through Georgetown traffic in the mid-day heat to find a parking spot that didn't seem to exist in order to eat at a reputed vegetarian restaurant was a challenge we didn't want every day.

There is a superb - and massive - Tesco store that sells produce for even cheaper than you can find in the outdoor markets! And we loved the young Thai coconuts, though we noticed how much the price for them fluctuated from restaurant to restaurant and in the stores. We discovered a nice vegetarian in Batu Ferringhi (called Olive in Eden Parade) that we would recommend. 

For children it was great in Batu Ferringhi. We visited an excellent indoor play centre at the Golden Sands resort (£4 entry for Zenchai) and he ran around for hours. Kobra got in for free and also loved it - as did Jamie.

Also at the Golden Sands is a Segway circuit. You get to ride for 15 minutes for £5. Zenchai was itching to have a go. 

When we arrived, they said Zenchai was tall enough, but feared he didn't have the bodyweight to manouvre the Segway In the end they relented and let Zenchai try. And within minutes he got the hang of it. 

As a family, we went to the tropical fruit farm (not cheap). Included in the price, though, is a buffet. It's a pity for us, though, that some of our favourite fruits, like rambutan, were out of season. We did stop on the way home and eat some fresh - and sweet - durian from the roadside. Delicious!

 

Argentina: Giant Land Of Friendliness, Beauty And Yerba Mate

We knew Argentina was large, but didn’t realise just how until we tried to plan getting around it.

Although it doesn’t seem so, Argentina (population 40 million) is the same size as India in terms of square miles. It’s the eighth largest country in the world.

Our intention was to see it all in three months. Having now had some experience of the country, that idea sounds so ridiculous. We only really scratched the surface. To do it properly, I’d like to go back, hire a campervan and drive around for 12 months. But the visitor’s visa is only valid for three months per entry, so you’d have to leave the country at various stages to make it possible.

We missed out on Patagonia (where there is also a Lake District), Mendoza (the wine country – although we’re not drinkers), Salta, the Los Glacieres National Park, Bariloche and Calafate, the multi-coloured mountains of Jujuy, not to mention the Valdes Peninsula and the wildlife sanctuary in Puerto Madryn.

Although getting around is relatively easy, it is quite expensive, at least when compared with other South American countries like, say, Ecuador. We took an overnight coach to Cordoba (the second largest city) from Buenos Aires, which was fabulous. Booking was easy. You can do it online with Omnilineas or, as we did, go direct to their offices (Maipu 459 on the 10th floor).

I visited alone the amazing Iguazu Falls, which was a 16-hour coach journey from the capital, but a truly spectacular sight. 

Together, though, we explored a few areas around Cordoba, like the hippy town of San Marcos Sierras, where we felt reunited with nature, and Capilla Del Monte, where we spent Christmas and New Year.

But we soon decided that constantly hopping from one place to another while Jamie was pregnant and Zenchai only four-and-a-half wasn’t what we had in mind. So we picked a few locations and pitched our tent, so to speak, for longer periods. That way we felt more settled and like we were living rather than visiting or touring.

Buenos Aires was enjoyable, a real walking city and easy to navigate. Each block is about 100m and the roads run on a grid system, much like in New York. But breathing in the pollution and cigarette smoke (Argentines are big smokers) almost wherever we walked where it was reasonably populated had us eager to move on in the end.

It’s sophisticated by South American standards, very European in its atmosphere and culture. The people are very helpful and friendly. Argentines, I noticed, love public displays of affection. They are big on tattoos also.

Buenos Aires is a city with tree-lined streets, cobbled roads, pastry and grocery shops on practically every corner, graffiti on walls and abandoned classic cars scattered everywhere (much to Zenchai’s delight). It’s home to the tango and yerba mate.

Cordoba, where we went after Capilla Del Monte, is much smaller than the capital: compact by comparison and cleaner (hardly any dog mess on the pavements). There is less to do and see, however. But it’s a shopper’s paradise (I can’t recall being in a place where there are so many shops – and all selling, more or less, the same items).

We rented apartments where we could in Argentina. This was the cheapest option, but only for stays of two weeks or more. We tried first online, but the process was tediously slow. With the bulk of rent required up front (in cash), be prepared to get your money out. And be warned that the banks in Argentina charge for ATM withdrawals and place a limit on the amount you can withdraw. (Talking of banks, be sure not to leave your need for cash until a Sunday afternoon as most banks are dry by then. If you’re desperate, go to an ATM inside a large petrol station).

After getting tired of waiting for rental agencies to reply to emails when we first arrived in Buenos Aires, we tried knocking on doors and this produced almost instant results. We’d recommend you find the area you like and then approach real estate people in the vicinity.

On our return to Buenos Aires in January, we successfully secured an apartment online with www.4rentargentina.com. Again, we had to pay in cash.

Palermo was our favourite neighbourhood. Home to the zoo, Botanical and Japanese Gardens, Palermo is large. If you want to be near the park – or are a jogger* - make sure you search in that area or opt for Recoleta, where there is also the extraordinary Cementerio de la Recoleta. San Telmo, an old district, also has lots to offer and is probably the place to be for museums, antique and old book shops, jewelry and bars. There is also a big food market.

When we were on the road or having short stays, we opted for hostels. Some are cheap and others not so (we happened to get to dusty San Marcos Sierras and Capilla del Monte during peak season). Buenos Aires has a wide selection, but do your homework and read reviews (trip advisor is a good starting point) before booking.

We preferred the hostels we found in Cordoba to Buenos Aires. Hostels are fine if you want a cheap space and to prepare your own meals, but it’s sometimes not ideal for families with small children (although in Cordoba it wasn’t a problem – try Babilonia Hostel and Pewman Che Hostel).

Many hostels can be noisy and sharing bathrooms has its drawbacks when you have a son who’s desperate for the toilet and a pregnant wife. Also, in Argentina the culture is to stay out late – even for kids – so taking an early night often comes at a price.

The positive side to hostels (for families) is that they offer a chance to meet other travellers. And for Zenchai this sometimes included children, which was nice.

Zenchai handled the travelling side well. We looked into internal air flights for ease of getting around, but it was too expensive, particularly for non-residents. As for food, buying from a grocer, as we tended to, was affordable. I could fill a large bag with fruit and veg, to last us several days, for about £15. The same would cost at least double back in England. One evening in Cordoba, I even bought enough veg to make dinner for three and it came to the equivalent of £1.

The variety is better for fruits than vegetables. It didn’t compare in Buenos Aires and Cordoba with what we could get our hands on in Capilla Del Monte - a small town which you can easily cover on foot in a few hours, probably less if you are doing just the centre. Getting there, we took a bus from Cordoba. It takes a lot longer (about four hours) if you are on a bus that stops in every town. The direct one (Sarmiento is the operator) takes around an hour.

Long-distance train networks aren’t reliable in Argentina, but the subway (Subte) in Buenos Aires is excellent and very cheap at 1.10 pesos (20p) per person. It runs from 6.30am-11pm and trains come frequently, even on weekends. To ride the buses is the same cost.

Clothes and shoes etc are expensive, so we didn’t do any shopping of that kind (especially as we’re always trying to travel lightly), except for Zenchai’s Argentina top which I found at a fair price in one of the many shops in the capital city selling football kits.

Eating out could be costly also. It depended where you went. We had some cheap and good meals for under £10 and others, though not so frequently, that came to nearly £30. The food is decent, though unexceptional, at least by vegan standards (I can’t comment on steak houses etc).

In Cordoba, we found several lunchtime vegetarian options which were fine. Eating out at night was more difficult, because of Zenchai’s sleeping times and how Argentine’s prefer to feast late. But, to be honest, we generally found dining out rather disappointing wherever we went last year, regardless of the country. When we look back on our favourite meals, it’s nearly always been those home-cooked and/or with family. You can’t beat it!

Overall, though, we really enjoyed our Argentina experience. It surpassed all expectations. We had a memorable time. I felt really at home and safe in the places we visited and with the people. When travelling with a family, that’s definitely an important factor to consider.

AbramsFamilyWorldTravel Tip: A Note for runners - I wouldn't recommend jogging or running through the city, particularly after 8am. There's too much traffic and pollution and too many traffic lights, not to mention the dog poop on the pavements. Head for the parks. One of the best is Parque 3 de Febrero, also known as The House of Sports. There you can run around 1km path that circles a boating lake. It's safe and you'll be joined by cyclists, roller-bladers and walkers. You can run on the tarmac, grass or gravel. 

Capilla Del Monte: Hiking Uritorco

The stunning Cerro Utorico mountain had stared at us since we arrived (we could see it from the porch of our apartment) and I wanted to hike to its summit. I waited for the cloudless days to pass, to avoid the climb in extreme heat as daily temperatures neared 40 degrees, but the sun over Christmas is relentless.

Then, with days running out on our stay, finally a storm arrives and I decide, regardless of the weather, I will make my ascent the next morning. I make my preparations: walking shoes; water (it is recommended you have 2 litres); sandwiches (avocado, tomato, tahini and lettuce); fruits (grapefruit , apple and two oranges); sunblock. I'd also recommend a change of shirt and towel (especially if you go in summer).

I rise at 6am, then quietly (as Jamie and Zenchai slept) ate some watermelon (to hydrate), wash and put on some clothes. I then have a fruit salad before setting off as the sun rises. The streets are quiet, almost deserted as I head towards Utorico.

The walk from the centre of town to base camp is 3km. The hike to the top is 5,548m. Estimated time up is 4hrs and down 3hrs. Slowly, I head through town then, following signs, find base camp after crossing a dried-out river bed.

Base camp is also a restaurant. To advance up the mountain, one must pay 40 pesos and complete a form with your details. You are requested to start coming down at 3pm. 

Grab a stick on your way. This is useful going up and down for providing stability. 

The path signs are clearly marked. Stick to them, but be sure to stop and look around. Take in the surroundings, breath in the clean air, feel the solitude and peace. Take photos, but bear in mind the views get much better as you go higher. 

It is a fantastic workout. I hear my heart pounding. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone who's not in reasonable condition. With an estimated three hours to go to the top, my shirt is ringing wet and my head dripping with sweat. But, to be honest, I am loving it!

I walk alone until halfway when, taking in more amazing views of Capilla, am joined by three wild dogs. I call them Guardians of Uritorco. They stick with me the rest of the way, stopping when I stop and walking whenever I continue. One always stays behind me and two lead the way, as though they are guiding me safely to the peak. I hope they are not after food as a reward, what with me being vegan. 

I could hear the dogs panting until we reach the cross that marks Uritorco's roof. We make it and it is worth it. 

I walk around, looking in awe from every direction and then find a spot to sit down and have my lunch in silence, just gazing out over the mountain's edge. All I can hear is nature - the birds, wind, insects and, of course, the dogs.

Then it is time to go down. This is the hardest part. The paths are rocky and jagged. It's easy to twist an ankle and fall - and you wouldn't want to do that. Take it easy. Enjoy the walk. 

Finally at the bottom, my feet and knees are aching. I look behind me, bid farewell to the impressive Uritorco and head back into town. By 2pm I am back at our apartment. Time for a nice dip in the pool!