Abrams Family World Travel

World Travel: Our Favourites - Three Years On

AT the end of our first year of travel, we posted a blog about our favourite spots - places, restaurants, beaches, parks and hotels, locations we’ve travelled to (including before our journey began) and have no trouble recommending. Now that over three years have passed since we started our adventure, we thought it would be a good time for an update.

Places

1. Vancouver, Canada: This city on North America's west coast offers a bit of everything. It ticked a lot of boxes for us. Nearby there's snow and beach for starters. There's an excellent public transport system, a fantastic range of organic/healthy produce, lots to do and see socially, the people are friendly, there's a large alternative schooling community, it's relatively safe and, for Canada, the weather is on the mild side. The only downside was the cost of property and renting. Otherwise, we really loved it - a lot!

2. Napier, New Zealand: Known as the 'Art Deco Capital of the World', this town on the north island is incredibly pretty. There's ocean, stunning surrounding mountains, hiking trails, wonderful rivers, clean parks, loads to do and see, little, if any, traffic, clean air and not lacking anything that we'd want in a big city.

3. Kukljica, Croatia: This little village on the island of Ugljan, across the water by ferry from Zadar, is a magical place for us. It's where I spent much of my childhood during the hot summer months. The Adriatic Sea is gorgeously salty and blue. The village has charm and lots of beautiful, though mostly rocky, bathing spots. It's wonderful during the hot season, but can be harshly cold in the winter.

4. Edinburgh, Scotland: Nice for walking, plenty to see, close to the coast, variety of restaurants, compact.

5. Lisbon, Portugal: Amazing architecture, lovely climate, great squares, economical and efficient public transport.

 

Beaches

1. Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica: Long stretches of sand without a person in sight or litter, stunning sunsets and perfect sea temperatures

2. Whale’s Tail, Costa Rica: Set in a National Park, with impressive caves you can walk through, great sand and warm seas

3. Los Frailes, Ecuador: Clear water, secluded, perfect waves, clean sand, sea temperature consistently good. All it’s missing is some shelter from the scorching sun and somewhere for refreshments (make sure you bring your own!)

4. Englishman’s Bay, Tobago: Long, intimate stretch of beautiful sandy beach with palm trees and clear green water, just where you’d imagine Robinson Crusoe making his base. There’s a shop and café on site also (not built by Crusoe, by the way).

5. Piracanga, Bahia, Brazil: We stayed here for more than 10 months in 2011. We lived practically on the doorstep of miles of vacant sandy beach. The ocean here, while often quite strong, was nearly always the perfect temperature and the sand ideal although we did have to lookout for troublesome little flees. www.piracanga.com

 

Restaurants

1. Napfenyes Etterem, Budapest: So good we ate there every day on our short stay, sometimes twice in a day. Great menu, nice staff. Almost too many delightful dishes, making our choice so much tougher (hence the reason we kept coming back) Rózsa u 39, District VII, Budapest 1077 +36-1-3135555. http://www.napfenyesetterem.hu/

2. Pure Food & Wine, Manhattan, New York: Somewhat pricey, but worth it, if only for the scrumptious desserts. Formal vegan restaurant with raw options. Jamie can't wait to get back there. www.oneluckyduck.com 54 Irving Place New York, NY 10003-2314 Tel: (212) 477-1010

3. Terra, Lisbon, Portugal: Fabulous buffet spread when we visited over seven years ago. Food is fresh and the ginger juice, though laced with sugar, so refreshing. www.restauranteterra.pt Príncipe Real, Rua da Palmeira 15, 1200-311 LISBOA, Portugal Tel: 213 421 407

4. Tiestos, Cuenca, Ecuador: Delicious food delivered in a large tagine (tiesto). The chef can make almost whatever you like and uses his ingredients so perfectly. A hit every time. Juan Jaramillo 7-34, City Centre, Cuenca, Ecuador

5. Buenos Aires Verde, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Outstanding organic vegetarian nosh, always beautifully presented, fresh and nutritious. Plenty of vegan and raw vegan options. Lovely setting, relaxed atmosphere and genuine staff. There is a menu in English. Try the salads, pizza, deserts and smoothies. Reasonably priced as well, especially when compared to most organic raw food/vegetarian restaurants. Gorriti 5657, Buenos Aires. http://www.bsasverde.com/index_en.html. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-0.30am.

 

Parks

1. KL City Park, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: Bang on the doorstep of the Petronas Towers and an enormous shopping centre is a large fountain which backs on to a great park. Whether it's jogging, walking, kids play or splashing in water, this park has it all. It's where I infamously smashed up my shins doing box jumps on marble columns (I slipped!) We spent countless hours there with our kids in the second-to-none children's play area. 

2. El Retiro, Madrid, Spain: Outstanding and in the city centre (near Retiro subway). Has many jogging paths and exercise areas as well as a lake with boats, cycle routes and quieter, shaded areas to sit.

3. Munich Olympic Park, Germany: By the former Olympic stadium, these manicured grounds near the centre of the city were used for the 1972 Games. The park has a lake and river and is perfect for running, cycling, rollerblading or just strolling.

4. Central Park, New York: At the tip of Manhattan, the park has something for everyone in any season, Great for walking, running, playing sports, rollerblading or just to pass some time.

5. Bosques de Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina: We stayed just a few blocks from this park. I went running there a lot (it can get busy) and Zenchai and I hired bicycles. We also went there for days out in the sun, just to play about on the grass. It's a huge park with beautiful gardens and monuments as well as a lake in the middle where you can rent paddleboats to calmly take in the scenery and relax. 

 

Sites/Experiences

1. Iguazu Falls, Argentina: Truly breathtaking, immense natural wonder on the Brazilian and Argentine border. Well worth the ridiculously long bus journey from Buenos Aires and wait for the lashing rain to subside.

2. Milford Sounds, New Zealand: Spectacular scenery on the South Island, visions I can't imagine you'd find anywhere else all in one place - mountains, lakes, hills...every corner turned delivered something special.

3. Blue Mountains, Sydney, Australia: Down Under's answer to the Grand Canyon. Impressive views, walks and cable rides.

4. El Zapato/Cajon Dam, Capilla Del Monte, Argentina: This site took us by surprise. We were on a walk, looking for the dam and stumbled upon an immense mountainscape that looked like something from 'The Land Of The Giants'.

5. Superclassico Football - River Plate v Boca Juniors: A truly memorable occasion for any footy fan - the biggest rivalry in the Argentine league. Whether it's at the River Plate Stadium, where the 1978 World Cup final took place, or Boca's smaller, but more cauldron-like ground, this is an unmissable fixture, more so for the bristling atmosphere than the football. 

 

Hotels/Hostals

1. Villa de las Aves, Uvita, Costa Rica: Fabulous two-floor house-type buildings with private jacuzzi, kitchens and a communal pool set in grounds surrounded by trees, animals and birds. With delightful owners, too - from Australia and UK, this is a spectacular place within reach of Costa Rica's great beaches. http://www.villasdelasaves.com/

2. Bahia Principe Tulum, Playa del Carmen, Mexico: All-inclusive resort hotel close to crystal clear sea water and private white sandy beaches.

3. Mandala, Puerto Lopez, Ecuador: Immaculately decorated – has so much to offer, like a library, games room, restaurant, gardens and music room. http://www.hosteriamandala.info/

4. Hip Hotel, Maastricht, Holland: Super sleek, funky one-time apartments converted into themed hotel rooms at affordable prices. There’s secure parking also, but at a fee. http://www.st-martenslane.com/

5. Intercontinental, Chicago airport: Comfortable, tasteful and sheek. 5300 North River Road, Rosemont. Tel: (847) 544-5300

 

Children's Activities

1. Parkour, Vancouver: Of all the activities we have introduced Zenchai to, this was the best. He couldn't get enough. What kid wouldn't want to run, tumble, climb, crash, jump and generally have heaps of fun exploring movement? http://www.originsparkour.com/

2. Wall Climbing, Kuala Lumpur: We took Zenchai along to the largest indoor climbing facility in Asia - and it is huge. It's all supervised and, while a little daunting, children get the chance to scale some enormous walls and grow in confidence. 

3. River Play, Piracanga, Brazil: During our stint at an eco village, we lived close to a river, which was perfect for children. Zenchai learned both to kayak and swim here in addition to spending countless hours just playing.

4. Children's Museum, Buenos Aires: Although the cost of entry wasn't low, it was worth it. Children got to role play and dress up to their heart's content. Zenchai used to beg me to take him here. 

5. Waterfall, Chiang Mai, Thailand: This northern Thai city is surrounded by waterfalls of various sizes. We found one on a Sunday afternoon and the kids loved it so much we couldn't tear them away. 

World Travel: Lessons Learned from Our First Year

We most definitely live and learn travelling the way we do. Mistakes are inevitable, but also invaluable.

That's why every 'bad' experience we've had has effectively been a blessing. It also doesn't harm to learn from what others have been through. Therefore, we thought we'd share with you what information we think has been priceless or helpful from our first 12 months travelling - advice that would most certainly have shortened our learning curve had we known in advance. 

 

Travelling with the sun

Both Claude and I relish the sunshine. So when we mapped out our itinerary to London, we knew that we wanted to follow the sun and be in places during their summers. However, what we did not consider was how our pursuit of warmth would also empty our pockets more quickly.

While it has been fantastic enjoying over a year of summer-like conditions, it has also meant travelling to places during peak season. Had we thought more deeply about travelling with the sun, we could have timed our arrivals into certain cities/areas just before or after the high season.

Something else that did not cross our minds was how travelling with the sun would effect Zenchai's socialisation with other children. By continuously landing in places during summer time, schools have almost always been closed.

When in small villages, like Kukljica in Croatia, this was not so much a problem as potential playmates by the sea were abundant. But in large cities like Buenos Aires, where children weren't roaming freely, this meant lonely playtimes for Zenchai.

Have at least the first night's stay booked

When you arrive in a new location try to have the first night's accommodation pre-booked. Sometimes there's a temptation to take a chance and see what you can find by wondering around - and that's understandable if you're not sure you want to stay. But we've found this rather stressful, especially if you discover the city or town you intend to stay in is fully booked. It's a real pain, particularly if you have children, to go from one hotel/hostel to another, hoping something is available. Going through Europe by car last summer we found ourselves on a few occasions - tired from a long day of driving - cruising down dimly-lit streets in the middle of the night and knocking on doors to find accommodation. Now we check online with tripadvisor and hostelworld and always read reviews, too. It narrows the choice and you discover feedback on whether a place is noisy, a party hostel, has a kitchen, internet etc. 

Challenge of staying with people

On both Claude's and my top ten memories of 2010 was meeting and staying with friends and family. Those moments of union with loved ones have definitely left a huge impression on our hearts.

However, at times those stays didn't always go without a hitch in the sense that we both have felt uncomfortable in instances where our destiny was out of our control. Being reliant on transport, food or basic necessities has at times made us feel powerless, which can create friction for us.

We have learned that we are far more comfortable in other people's spaces if we are able to cater to our basic familial needs and not having to completely pass the buck to those who host us.

Clothing, toys, books etc

With each leg of our trip we have realised our tendency to over-pack, especially clothing, toys for Zenchai and books. This overindulgence created many anxious moments while we waited in queues at the airport to check our luggage.

Would our bags be overweight - again? This is something we are continually refining and with the impending arrival of our newest family member it is also something we need to perfect sooner rather than later.

Suitcases vs Rucksacks

At the moment we are travelling with two suitcases. My monster pink case and Claude's more sensibly-sized case. However, we have encountered many situations where having a rucksack each would have made for smoother travel.

Manage your money smartly

Travellers cheques used to be the only way to carry large amounts of currency when travelling. Not anymore. In Ecuador, travellers cheques were practically useless. Claude had to go from one bank to another to find someone willing to cash them. We haven't used them since. We opted for the FairFX card. It's simple to top up and all you require is an ATM machine to get your cash. FairFX offer you the option of having your money in pounds, dollars or Euros but don't charge for currency conversions or withdrawals (however, banks in certain countries, like Argentina and Uruguay, do impose a fee per transaction - roughly £3, which adds up). It's also worth noting - and checking - before travelling which credit cards certain countries prefer. For instance, Visa is the favoured card in Argentina. And in some countries, like Ecuador, credit card transactions are minimal, so you need access to cash. Do your homework.

Buy fruit and veg locally 

We do our best to purchase fruit and veg from local markets. The produce tends to be fresher, cheaper and local. It also helps keep them in business. In Marrakech, for instance, the difference in price between the markets and supermarket chains was ridiculous. If you're on a tight budget, it is definitely worth considering.

Check your dates!

Twice we turned up in Buenos Aires on days when the city had practically closed down. Once was a national holiday and on another occasion it was the Census. When you need access to shops - particularly for food - you don't want to be caught out. So before travelling or nailing down your dates, it's worth confirming your arrival dates don't coincide with a public holiday. Don't rely on the travel agent to tell you. 

Driving on slower roads

Tolls in France and most of Europe are really expensive. We couldn't believe last summer how much the cost of driving in Europe had escalated. We came off the toll roads in France, Italy, Slovenia and Croatia several times and, guess what? The experience was much more pleasurable: you get to see the real countryside and villages. You see so much more than when bombing up and down motorways, which tend to always look the same. Though it was much slower, going on the A roads is a lot cheaper. If you're not in a hurry, we'd certainly recommend it. 

Have a sick bag when on public transport

We had several incidents - in coaches, cars, taxis, ferries, aeroplanes - when a sick bag was required and we didn't have anything at the ready. In Ecuador, the taxis and public buses were awful in terms of smooth riding. Zenchai sometimes would throw up within minutes! Some plane rides are rough also. It's just better to be equipped and have plastic/paper bags easily at hand. You won't be sorry. 

Always check pots and pans when renting

It's easy when renting an apartment to look the place over, sign on the dotted line and part with your cash without looking in the cupboards to see what they have provided. Check the details. Make sure the accommodation offers what is being advertised. We got caught out in Cuenca last year when the kitchen didn't even have any gas for the burner! We also had to beg for dishes, chopping boards, knives etc - items you'd think would be standard. Don't assume kitchens are fully equipped. 

Have a camera on hand and spare battery charged

Do you ever find that when you leave behind your camera a photo opportunity presents itself? We do. So we decided that the golden rule is always take the camera - just in case. Better to have it and not use it than to have a once-in-a-lifetime moment pass you by. Charge your spare battery also. We do it almost immediately whenever one of our batteries dies. Having photographic memories is priceless. Be organised. 

Divide and conquer 

Doing everything as a family can be tiring and absorbing. Sometimes we, as parents, need a break - from partners, being parents and children. We learned to split the responsibilities. We still do things together, but, more now than before, also take turns in looking after Zenchai and going on excursions with him. It's made a significant difference and can really help restore some sanity and reduce the demands of being a close-knit family. 

Carry snacks and a pen

With young children - and pregnant women - you can't go far without having snacks. If, like us, your dietary requirements mean you prefer not to rely on junk food and sweets etc, it's essential to do some shopping in advance and get stocked up in case of any emergencies. Kids can quickly become a handful if they get over-hungry, so we try always to remember to pack fruit and snacks or make the effort to find out where there is a food source nearby. A pen can also come in handy. You never know when you may have to jot down some important information. So keep one tucked away in your bag or pocket at all times. 

Do your research when eating out

When eating out, we make sure we've done some investigating first. We use the Happy Cow and Vegan backpackers websites a lot. They are excellent for details on where to eat vegan around the world. We also have our travel guidebooks, that make recommendations. However, don't always trust the information. We've gone searching for restaurants with great reviews on Happy Cow only to find they no longer exist. That's why it's always useful to have a back-up plan. Similarly, guide books are usually a year or so out of date by the time you buy it. Prices can change. We learned the hard way that it pays to check the prices before sitting down. Usually, restaurants will display their menu and prices in the window. 

Buy watermelons whole

There's a good way to check if a watermelon is ripe: put it to your ear and tap it. If it sounds hollow then it's ready for consumption. But sometimes shops and small grocers will sell large watermelons in halves or slices. This can result in a melon sitting out for a while. We had one case in San Marcos Sierras, Argentina, where it was hot and we bought a half watermelon. By the time we sat down to eat it (about 30 minutes after the purchase), it had virtually turned to alcohol. The best way to avoid this is buy them whole or watch them cut a whole one open if you want slices. 

 

World Travel: Our Favourites - Cities, Beaches, Restaurants, Hotels...

These are our favourite places, restaurants, beaches, parks and hotels, locations we’ve travelled to over the years and have no trouble recommending. It’s a list we shall keep updated periodically as we continue our journey and explore.

Cities

1. Edinburgh, Scotland: Nice for walking, plenty to see, close to the coast, variety of restaurants, compact.

2. Lisbon, Portugal: Amazing architecture, lovely climate, great squares, economical and efficient public transport.

3. New York, USA: Bustling, huge, stimulating, never a shortage of places to go, eat and see. Lots of parks and play areas, excellent and affordable metro.

4. Venice, Italy:  Romantic, picturesque, walkable, trafficless and atmospheric.

5. Maastricht, Holland: Charming, tranquil, small, clean and safe with delightful squares and friendly people.

 

Beaches

1. Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica: Long stretches of sand without a person in sight or litter, stunning sunsets and perfect sea temperatures

2. Whale’s Tail, Costa Rica: Set in a National Park, with impressive caves you can walk through, great sand and warm seas

3. Los Frailes, Ecuador: Clear water, secluded, perfect waves, clean sand, sea temperature consistently good. All it’s missing is some shelter from the scorching sun and somewhere for refreshments (make sure you bring your own!)

4. Englishman’s Bay, Tobago: Long, intimate stretch of beautiful sandy beach with palm trees and clear green water, just where you’d imagine Robinson Crusoe making his base. There’s a shop and café on site also.

5. Playa del Carmen, Mexico: White, cool sand and crystal clear waters.

 

Restaurants

1. Napfenyes Etterem, Budapest: So good we ate there every day on our short stay, sometimes twice in a day. Great menu, nice staff. Almost too many delightful dishes, making our choice so much tougher (hence the reason we kept coming back) Rózsa u 39, District VII, Budapest 1077 +36-1-3135555. http://www.napfenyesetterem.hu/

2. Pure Food & Wine, Manhattan, New York: Somewhat pricey, but worth it, if only for the scrumptious desserts. Formal vegan restaurant with raw options. www.oneluckyduck.com 54 Irving Place New York, NY 10003-2314 Tel: (212) 477-1010

3. Terra, Lisbon, Portugal: Fabulous buffet spread when we visited over five years ago. Food is fresh and the ginger juice, though laced with sugar, so refreshing. www.restauranteterra.pt Príncipe Real, Rua da Palmeira 15, 1200-311 LISBOA, Portugal Tel: 213 421 407

4. Tiestos, Cuenca, Ecuador: Delicious food delivered in a large tagine (tiesto). The chef can make almost whatever you like and uses his ingredients so perfectly. A hit every time. Juan Jaramillo 7-34, City Centre, Cuenca, Ecuador

5. Buenos Aires Verde, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Outstanding organic vegetarian nosh, always beautifully presented, fresh and nutritious. Plenty of vegan and raw vegan options. Lovely setting, relaxed atmosphere and genuine staff. There is a menu in English. Try the salads, pizza, deserts and smoothies. Reasonably priced as well, especially when compared to most organic raw food/vegetarian restaurants. Gorriti 5657, Buenos Aires. http://www.bsasverde.com/index_en.html. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-0.30am.

 

Parks

1. El Retiro, Madrid, Spain: Outstanding and in the city centre (near Retiro subway). Has many jogging paths and exercise areas as well as a lake with boats, cycle routes and quieter, shaded areas to sit.

2. Munich Olympic Park, Germany: By the former Olympic stadium, these manicured grounds near the centre of the city were used for the 1972 Games. The park has a lake and river and is perfect for running, cycling, rollerblading or just strolling.

3. Central Park, New York: At the tip of Manhattan, the park has something for everyone in any season, Great for walking, running, playing sports, rollerblading or just to pass some time.

4. Ruislip Lido, Ruislip, England: Close to where we used to live on the west side of London, there’s a lake, a man-made sandy beach, extensive kids play area and path around the water for walking, cycling or running. Great in the mornings, when no-one is awake, the lido also backs on to Ruislip Woods, an expansive wooded area.

5. Cyber Park, Marrakech, Morocco: Clean, educational and close to the famous Medina. Closes around 5pm. It has a calm feel while also providing a great play area for children.

 

Hotels/hostals

1. Villa de las Aves, Uvita, Costa Rica: Fabulous two-floor house-type buildings with private jacuzzi, kitchens and a communal pool set in grounds surrounded by trees, animals and birds. With delightful owners, too - from Australia and UK, this is a spectacular place within reach of Costa Rica's great beaches. http://www.villasdelasaves.com/

2. Bahia Principe Tulum, Playa del Carmen: Mexico All-inclusive resort hotel close to crystal clear sea water and private white sandy beaches.

3. Mandala, Puerto Lopez, Ecuador: Immaculately decorated – has so much to offer, like a library, games room, restaurant, gardens and music room. http://www.hosteriamandala.info/

4. Hip Hotel, Maastricht, Holland: Super sleek, funky one-time apartments converted into themed hotel rooms at affordable prices. There’s secure parking also, but at a fee. http://www.st-martenslane.com/

5. Intercontinental, Chicago airport: Comfortable, tasteful and sheek. 5300 North River Road, Rosemont. Tel: (847) 544-5300

Ecuador: The Highs and Lows

OUR FIVE HIGHLIGHTS

1.) Los Frailes Beach

Inside a national park a short ride north from Puerto Lopez, this was a hidden treasure. The beach was clean, the water blue and warm, the waves fun and the sand pristine.

It’s a deserted spot away from all the tourists and a fabulous place to spend several hours. Bring your own food (there’s no catering on site) and plenty of sun block. Cost of admission: $12 per adult.

2.) Tiestos restaurant, Cuenca

We loved this place so much we just kept going back. The owner and chef, Juan Carlos, is a warm, charming man who’s attention to detail and desire to please his customers is unmistakable.

The food is outstanding and plentiful. And for a fairly upscale restaurant, the prices were reasonable also. Don’t visit Cuenca without sampling this place.

3.) Thermal Pools of Papallacta

There isn’t a more relaxing way to escape from Quito. The journey by bus from the capital is about an hour and then hop in a taxi to this fantastic, heavenly collection of hot, warm and cold plunge pools.

A great place for families, romantic couples or just to visit by yourself. Price: $7 for adults and $3 for children.

4.) Centre of the earth & museum

You can’t go to Quito without visiting the centre of the earth. The monument, in fact, sits about 100 yards from the exact spot. But given it was discovered by the French many years ago, before Sat Nav, the error was an acceptable one.

There’s a museum inside the monument and a small village selling all sorts of goods, plus restaurants. Less than half a mile away is another museum – outdoors, interactive and more fun. Be sure to visit. Entrance fee $3 for adults at the interactive museum and $2 for the monument museum.

5.) Climbing the Quito Basilica

From the top, which is quite a climb, you get some of the most spectacular views of the city. Quito is many things, but the site of all the buildings surrounded by mountains is quite staggering. It costs $2 for adults to enter, but is worth it.

FIVE LOWLIGHTS

1.) Cuenca air pollution

The wheezing, choking buses of this city spoiled our time there. The city centre wasn’t so big and blue buses were everywhere. Avoiding the choking black puffs of smoke was almost impossible. We’d heard so many good reviews of Cuenca that our expectations were admittedly high. But even in heaven, this level of pollution would make us want to bolt.

2.) Not getting to the Galapagos Islands

Prices for tours to the Galapagos are extraordinarily steep. We couldn’t justify the expense, even if it meant coming all this way and missing some of the most stunning islands in the world.

But nearly everyone we met who had been there had told us the cost was worth it – what you see is truly unique and unforgettable. Maybe next time…

3.) Dirty beaches with stinging jelly fish in Puerto Lopez

We’d hoped to find long stretches of sandy beaches and a beautiful ocean. The beaches are long and sandy, but there was too much litter and the lingering smell of fish in the air was unavoidable along the beachfront.

Watch out in the water for stinging jelly fish. They seem to turn up every other day.

4.) Restaurant at the volcanic crater

The hotel at El Crater, with amazing views from the rooms, was fabulous, if pricey. But in the nearby restaurant the food quality didn’t match the outstanding and immaculate décor. For the price (it wasn’t cheap), we expected better.

5.) El Puente Apartment/hotel, Cuenca

Not somewhere we’d recommend, even if the daily cost of stay was cheaper than any hostals. Rooms are large and you get a kitchen, but the customer service was, for want of a better word, bordering on abysmal.

The Road to Guayaquil

Dense fog, winding mountain roads, landslides, daredevil drivers…your life feels out of your hands when you take a journey by road in Ecuador.

Drivers, be they in charge of buses, taxis, lorries or cars, don’t think twice about taking risks, often overtaking on blind bends and two or three vehicles at a time.

Be prepared for delays. We were held up an hour at the entrance to El Cajas national park, where they were relaying the road surface, and just outside of Guayaquil, where a bus had crashed off the road.

Poor Zenchai had suffered badly with motion sickness on the way from Loja to Cuenca, so we looked for an alternative to buses when travelling to Guayaquil on the beginning of our trek towards the Ruta de la Sol (Route of the Sun) along the coast.

We found a reasonable solution in Elmoctour, a people-carrier firm based on Av Remigio Crespo 3-54 (Tel: 2455326) in Cuenca. They charged $12 per person for the four-hour journey (we gave the driver an additional $5 for taking us straight to our hotel).

Zenchai slept more than half the trip, thankfully during the mountain phase where sometimes visibility was practically a hair-raising zero.

By the time he woke up, the vegetation had changed dramatically, the air felt muggier and the temperature had risen. 

We were in Guayaquil.

Of course, we’d been forewarned countless times: be on guard for pickpockets and muggers; it’s not safe to walk around.

While we’re never dismissive of friendly advice, we always prefer to judge from experience and, perhaps because of the many unflattering reviews, Guayaquil, though bustling and a big city, was a somewhat pleasant surprise.

The Malecon (boardwalk) in particular is clean and smart and there’s a breeze coming off the water that takes the edge off the humidity.

There are also some nice parks and interesting museums and buildings, although we didn’t get the chance to fully explore given we were there for virtually an afternoon.

Zenchai, in particular, had great fun running around, working up a sweat and it felt like a relief after Cuenca for us to allow him to burn off some energy along the Malecon without worrying about him falling or darting into traffic.

We stayed at the Suites Madrid, in town. A young man called Christoper, who spoke excellent English, was exceedingly helpful, to the point when I asked to visit the supermarket he accompanied me and he even drove us in his car down to the Malecon.

However, the hotel can be noisy. For $35, it was, by Ecuadorian standards, overpriced. The hostal is in a busy part of town. We had the sound of water dropping on to corrugated iron all night, not to mention the staff talking loudly in the hollow corridors and car alarms going off in the street.

Abrams Family Travel Tip: For car/motion sickness try some ginger essential oil and rub on the underside of the wrists; keep your eyes on the road (if your can); have some ‘fresh’ air coming into the vehicle; have a supply of sick bags – and napkins for cleaning - at the ready.

Day escapes from Cuenca

While in Cuenca we felt the need to escape the exhaust-filled air. 

Our first adventure was to Baños-Cuenca to the aguas termales (thermal baths). We hopped on to to a number 12 bus for 25¢ each and out of the stinky air we went. Baños-Cuenca is only about 5k out of the city, but the bus journey took about half an hour with all the stops. (When getting the number 12 bus be sure one if it's destinations is Baños. There are large white placards in the front bus window with the major stops. Claude made the mistake of taking the wrong bus on his first attempt to getting to Baños and ended-up an hour out of town. If in doubt double check with the driver.) 

Our guide books suggested a particular thermal bath called Hosteria Durán. It has two large swimming pools and a more exclusive area that you could enjoy for a bit extra. We took the cheap option and paid $6.20 for two adults and one child. There is a restaurant and cafe attached to the Hosteria if you feel a bit peckish after your pool time. We didn't try the fare, but the restaurant looked fairly swanky. 

The easiest way to find Hosteria Durán is to get off the bus before you get into Baños. Keep your eyes peeled to the left and look for their very large sign. Many people get off here to go to the baths. 

Abrams Family Travel Tip: All buses running in Cuenca are 25¢ per journey. Young children do not have to pay. Take the right change as the drivers do not carry any. You can jump on to a bus just about anywhere (when you see a bus approaching just wave your hand as if you were pointing your index finger to the ground saying 'stop here'), although there are designated bus stops (blue signs that say 'Parada Bus'). You can get off at anytime by ringing the bell or saying very loudly 'Gracias'. Always enter the bus through the front door and exit at the back. 

Our second journey out of Cuenca was to El Cajas Parque Nacional. There are many guided tours on offer for around $40 (not including your park entrance fee of $10). These tours are usually around five hours. 

As we like to do things on a shoestring and an authentic experience, we decided to forego a guided tour and take the trip with a friend we met at Govinda's. As Cajas is even higher in altitude than Cuenca, a five-hour hike may be a bit much if you are not acclimatised. 

If you are staying in town, catch a number 3 bus heading towards the Ferria Libre (do not get off at Ferria Libre). Get off the bus in a little area called Sayausi (if you are unsure, ask the driver to let you know). You'll know you are in the right spot if when you get off the bus you can see a road that runs like a 'Y" parallel to where you are standing. This is the road where the buses heading to Guayaquil run. When you see a Guayaquil bus (usually large tour buses) flag it down. Tell them you are getting off at El Cajas. This should cost you between $1.50 - $2.00 and there may be standing room only, which isn't major as it is only about a 20-minute ride. 

You'll get off at or near Casa Vieja, a restaurant. Stop in for a Canelazo, which is a hot alcoholic drink made of aguardiente (sugar cane alcohol), panela, and boiled cinnamon water, before you head off for your hike. We had ours minus the aguardiente. 

Just at the bottom edge of the restaurant's property is a river. Cross at the metal bridge and you'll see a path leading up into the man-made pine forrest. Follow this path around the large boulder and soon enough you'll come to your first lake. If you continue around the lake near the virgin cloud forrest trees you'll soon come to another lake. Doing this little route and heading back is usually a good first attempt at that altitude of 3,200 meters. 

Remember to stick to the path. It is very well trodden and if at any point you feel unsure, stop and listen for traffic from the road below and that will get you back to where you started. 

If your tummy is rumbling after your altitude hike, pop back into Casa Vieja for a bite to eat. The food isn't fantastic, but she was able to put together a little vegan dish for us. 

To get back to Cuenca, flag down a bus coming from Guayaquil - any bus passing by. If they don't stop it is because they are too full. All the buses will be heading into the main bus terminal in Cuenca, which travels by Ferria Libre. We got off there and grabbed another number 3 bus back into town. 

Abrams Family Travel Tip: Be sure to pack plenty of sunscreen - do not let the clouds deceive you - sunhat or wooly hat, rain coat, scarf, dress in layers, bring snacks and water.

PS. The above hike was not a strenuous hike. Zenchai managed the entire hike, both ways without even the slightest hint of a whinge and even ran parts of it.

Mad Hatters

I AM not a hat person. But Jamie and Zenchai are. However, I enjoyed the hour or so we spent at the Panama Hat Museum in Cuenca.

It’s fun - trying on hats, seeing how they are made, marvelling at the variety, not to mention the expertise of the workers.

Interestingly, while these hats are said to have originated in Panama, the reality is that more of them are made and worn in Cuenca than anywhere else in the world. The real name for them is a Montecristi. 

They came to be known as 'Panama Hats' during the 19th century when they were worn by workers on the Panama Canal for protection against the fierce sun. 

The process for making the hats is fascinating. Fibres come from the toquilla palm which grows in abundance on the Ecuadorian coastlands. Efforts have been made to grow the palms elsewhere, but to no avail and thus Ecuador remains the epicentre for Panama Hat production. 

Preparing the palms requires harvesting the shoots before, by hand, beating and splitting them in order to remove long, thin leaves that are bundled up and then boiled for around 20 minutes before being left to dry for three days.

During the drying process, the leaves reduce in size and roll up, making them perfect for weaving into hats. The more closely together the fibres are woven the better - and more expensive - the hat. Standard hats are sold for around $15. The best ones can fetch in excess of $500! A good hat will keep your head dry during a rainstorm. 

 You can buy one – or two or more – at the museum if you choose. There’s a café on site, too, but we didn’t try it.

Address: Calle Larga 10-41. No admission and try on as many hats as you like.

Finger-licking Good

We couldn’t resist another, and sadly final, visit to Tiestos. What a place! Best food in Cuenca.

As usual, owner and chef Juan Carlos made us feel totally welcome. The man has a way with people as well as food.

Having cooked us Italian and Indian on previous visits, this time he said, ‘How about Chinese?’

He delivered, in person (as he does), a wonderful Chinese stir-fry, more than enough for the three of us.

It was cooked in his Tiesto (hence the restaurant name) – a large tagine, used in Ecuador for making maize tortillas.

“People think I’m crazy for cooking in this,” he said, explaining that his style of food is called Cuencan fusion.

We asked for the cheque, but before it arrived came a dessert – on the house!

It was a work of art (see photo), created by Juan’s wife and using only fruit and chocolate.
Zenchai licked it off the plate…almost literally.

“Yummie,” he said. “Can you ask the chef how to make this,” he told his mother.

Tiestos - Juan Jarmillo 7-34 y Borrero, Tel: 2835 310

Note: Tiestos is open for lunch and dinner every day except Mondays.

Baptism Of Thunder

 I AM all for new experiences. That’s one of the main reasons for travelling. But I’ve had my share of wet nights watching football back in England. 

We all know the South Americans are passionate about football, but my first opportunity to watch a game live on this continent will have to wait. 

I went along to a Cuenca-Barcelona (the latter even have the same badge and colours as Spain’s European champions) match. But it was like trying to get into Barcelona-Real Madrid in Spain. These two sides are big rivals and thousands showed up a good hour before kick-off. 

It may sound spoiled, but in England I am used to all-seater (for safety reasons) stadiums and roofs (that cover the spectators). Here the stadium, not far from the city centre, was tiered, mostly standing-only and greatly exposed to the elements. And when the heavens opened, like Our Creator had turned on his/her power shower, I was quickly soaked through to the bone and feeling like a rat in a puddle. 

Getting a ticket wasn’t so straightforward. There didn’t seem to be a box-office of any kind. Tickets were purchased from touts, which is illegal in Britain, but here conducted openly under the noses of the police – and their horses. 

I’d been instructed to pay no more than around $8, but when I was told $15 I figured the price was for westerners. I passed. 

Quickly, though, with the weather doing nothing to dampen the enthusiasm of the fans, most tickets disappeared except for los ninos – and at 6ft in a land of short people, I didn't feel I was going to pass for a youngster. 

I first tried getting in at the home side’s end, but this proved futile. I walked around to where the visitors from Guayaquil had gathered and the lines seemed longer than the Tomebamba river. 

So I took shelter from the rain across the road, watching the thousands getting drenched but still singing, and then traipsed off home. 

The score, by the way, was 1-1, which didn’t matter to me. But back at our apartment, I could hear the roars when the goals went in. 

Ps. I thought I’d really miss following my team, Liverpool, but I have to make do with the internet and sites like goal.com, where I follow the action on a live video printer. It’s a lot less stressful, especially as Liverpool have had a lousy season. It reminds me of when I was much younger and listened to football on the radio. There’s a lot to be said for leaving things to the imagination.

Abrams Family Travel Tip: Bring your waterproofs, arrive early and expect to do a cash deal on the street

Our Cuenca Restaurant Recommendations

 Govindas ~ Lunch Heaven

For unbeatable value for money, try Govinda’s – Jaramillo 7-27. It’s open for breakfast and lunch only (8am-3pm), but the lunch buffet (almuerzos) – for $2 per person – is fantastic. The complete vegetarian fare includes a hearty soup, fresh juice and a main meal. The staff are friendly and helpful. Around lunchtime it gets quite busy, but there is ample seating in this ambient restaurant.

Tiesto's ~ Dinner Bliss   

Friends of ours had said they’d enjoyed the best curry of their lives in Ecuador – and this from people who’d actually been to India!

So we checked out Tiesto's for ourselves and ended up eating there two nights in succession. It’s not an Indian restaurant. I’m not sure how to describe it except that the food is out of this world, scrumptious.

Being vegan, our choice on the menu was limited. However, the chef and owner bounced over to greet us (as he does with every table!) and was more than happy to indulge us with an off-the-menu vegan delight, which proved an understatement. For the Spanish speaking novices he speaks good English, too.

 For $18, we had a massive feast the first night – egg plant (aubergines) cooked Italian style in a large tagine-like dish – and the next evening he said he’d prepare something Indian, which he did.

Delicious – there’s no other word for it. The service and décor are superb with a perfect atmosphere. If you’re ever in Cuenca, be sure to treat yourself. Address: 7-34 Jaramillo (opposite Govinda’s).