Abrams Family World Travel

World Travel: Our Favourites - Three Years On

AT the end of our first year of travel, we posted a blog about our favourite spots - places, restaurants, beaches, parks and hotels, locations we’ve travelled to (including before our journey began) and have no trouble recommending. Now that over three years have passed since we started our adventure, we thought it would be a good time for an update.

Places

1. Vancouver, Canada: This city on North America's west coast offers a bit of everything. It ticked a lot of boxes for us. Nearby there's snow and beach for starters. There's an excellent public transport system, a fantastic range of organic/healthy produce, lots to do and see socially, the people are friendly, there's a large alternative schooling community, it's relatively safe and, for Canada, the weather is on the mild side. The only downside was the cost of property and renting. Otherwise, we really loved it - a lot!

2. Napier, New Zealand: Known as the 'Art Deco Capital of the World', this town on the north island is incredibly pretty. There's ocean, stunning surrounding mountains, hiking trails, wonderful rivers, clean parks, loads to do and see, little, if any, traffic, clean air and not lacking anything that we'd want in a big city.

3. Kukljica, Croatia: This little village on the island of Ugljan, across the water by ferry from Zadar, is a magical place for us. It's where I spent much of my childhood during the hot summer months. The Adriatic Sea is gorgeously salty and blue. The village has charm and lots of beautiful, though mostly rocky, bathing spots. It's wonderful during the hot season, but can be harshly cold in the winter.

4. Edinburgh, Scotland: Nice for walking, plenty to see, close to the coast, variety of restaurants, compact.

5. Lisbon, Portugal: Amazing architecture, lovely climate, great squares, economical and efficient public transport.

 

Beaches

1. Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica: Long stretches of sand without a person in sight or litter, stunning sunsets and perfect sea temperatures

2. Whale’s Tail, Costa Rica: Set in a National Park, with impressive caves you can walk through, great sand and warm seas

3. Los Frailes, Ecuador: Clear water, secluded, perfect waves, clean sand, sea temperature consistently good. All it’s missing is some shelter from the scorching sun and somewhere for refreshments (make sure you bring your own!)

4. Englishman’s Bay, Tobago: Long, intimate stretch of beautiful sandy beach with palm trees and clear green water, just where you’d imagine Robinson Crusoe making his base. There’s a shop and café on site also (not built by Crusoe, by the way).

5. Piracanga, Bahia, Brazil: We stayed here for more than 10 months in 2011. We lived practically on the doorstep of miles of vacant sandy beach. The ocean here, while often quite strong, was nearly always the perfect temperature and the sand ideal although we did have to lookout for troublesome little flees. www.piracanga.com

 

Restaurants

1. Napfenyes Etterem, Budapest: So good we ate there every day on our short stay, sometimes twice in a day. Great menu, nice staff. Almost too many delightful dishes, making our choice so much tougher (hence the reason we kept coming back) Rózsa u 39, District VII, Budapest 1077 +36-1-3135555. http://www.napfenyesetterem.hu/

2. Pure Food & Wine, Manhattan, New York: Somewhat pricey, but worth it, if only for the scrumptious desserts. Formal vegan restaurant with raw options. Jamie can't wait to get back there. www.oneluckyduck.com 54 Irving Place New York, NY 10003-2314 Tel: (212) 477-1010

3. Terra, Lisbon, Portugal: Fabulous buffet spread when we visited over seven years ago. Food is fresh and the ginger juice, though laced with sugar, so refreshing. www.restauranteterra.pt Príncipe Real, Rua da Palmeira 15, 1200-311 LISBOA, Portugal Tel: 213 421 407

4. Tiestos, Cuenca, Ecuador: Delicious food delivered in a large tagine (tiesto). The chef can make almost whatever you like and uses his ingredients so perfectly. A hit every time. Juan Jaramillo 7-34, City Centre, Cuenca, Ecuador

5. Buenos Aires Verde, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Outstanding organic vegetarian nosh, always beautifully presented, fresh and nutritious. Plenty of vegan and raw vegan options. Lovely setting, relaxed atmosphere and genuine staff. There is a menu in English. Try the salads, pizza, deserts and smoothies. Reasonably priced as well, especially when compared to most organic raw food/vegetarian restaurants. Gorriti 5657, Buenos Aires. http://www.bsasverde.com/index_en.html. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-0.30am.

 

Parks

1. KL City Park, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: Bang on the doorstep of the Petronas Towers and an enormous shopping centre is a large fountain which backs on to a great park. Whether it's jogging, walking, kids play or splashing in water, this park has it all. It's where I infamously smashed up my shins doing box jumps on marble columns (I slipped!) We spent countless hours there with our kids in the second-to-none children's play area. 

2. El Retiro, Madrid, Spain: Outstanding and in the city centre (near Retiro subway). Has many jogging paths and exercise areas as well as a lake with boats, cycle routes and quieter, shaded areas to sit.

3. Munich Olympic Park, Germany: By the former Olympic stadium, these manicured grounds near the centre of the city were used for the 1972 Games. The park has a lake and river and is perfect for running, cycling, rollerblading or just strolling.

4. Central Park, New York: At the tip of Manhattan, the park has something for everyone in any season, Great for walking, running, playing sports, rollerblading or just to pass some time.

5. Bosques de Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina: We stayed just a few blocks from this park. I went running there a lot (it can get busy) and Zenchai and I hired bicycles. We also went there for days out in the sun, just to play about on the grass. It's a huge park with beautiful gardens and monuments as well as a lake in the middle where you can rent paddleboats to calmly take in the scenery and relax. 

 

Sites/Experiences

1. Iguazu Falls, Argentina: Truly breathtaking, immense natural wonder on the Brazilian and Argentine border. Well worth the ridiculously long bus journey from Buenos Aires and wait for the lashing rain to subside.

2. Milford Sounds, New Zealand: Spectacular scenery on the South Island, visions I can't imagine you'd find anywhere else all in one place - mountains, lakes, hills...every corner turned delivered something special.

3. Blue Mountains, Sydney, Australia: Down Under's answer to the Grand Canyon. Impressive views, walks and cable rides.

4. El Zapato/Cajon Dam, Capilla Del Monte, Argentina: This site took us by surprise. We were on a walk, looking for the dam and stumbled upon an immense mountainscape that looked like something from 'The Land Of The Giants'.

5. Superclassico Football - River Plate v Boca Juniors: A truly memorable occasion for any footy fan - the biggest rivalry in the Argentine league. Whether it's at the River Plate Stadium, where the 1978 World Cup final took place, or Boca's smaller, but more cauldron-like ground, this is an unmissable fixture, more so for the bristling atmosphere than the football. 

 

Hotels/Hostals

1. Villa de las Aves, Uvita, Costa Rica: Fabulous two-floor house-type buildings with private jacuzzi, kitchens and a communal pool set in grounds surrounded by trees, animals and birds. With delightful owners, too - from Australia and UK, this is a spectacular place within reach of Costa Rica's great beaches. http://www.villasdelasaves.com/

2. Bahia Principe Tulum, Playa del Carmen, Mexico: All-inclusive resort hotel close to crystal clear sea water and private white sandy beaches.

3. Mandala, Puerto Lopez, Ecuador: Immaculately decorated – has so much to offer, like a library, games room, restaurant, gardens and music room. http://www.hosteriamandala.info/

4. Hip Hotel, Maastricht, Holland: Super sleek, funky one-time apartments converted into themed hotel rooms at affordable prices. There’s secure parking also, but at a fee. http://www.st-martenslane.com/

5. Intercontinental, Chicago airport: Comfortable, tasteful and sheek. 5300 North River Road, Rosemont. Tel: (847) 544-5300

 

Children's Activities

1. Parkour, Vancouver: Of all the activities we have introduced Zenchai to, this was the best. He couldn't get enough. What kid wouldn't want to run, tumble, climb, crash, jump and generally have heaps of fun exploring movement? http://www.originsparkour.com/

2. Wall Climbing, Kuala Lumpur: We took Zenchai along to the largest indoor climbing facility in Asia - and it is huge. It's all supervised and, while a little daunting, children get the chance to scale some enormous walls and grow in confidence. 

3. River Play, Piracanga, Brazil: During our stint at an eco village, we lived close to a river, which was perfect for children. Zenchai learned both to kayak and swim here in addition to spending countless hours just playing.

4. Children's Museum, Buenos Aires: Although the cost of entry wasn't low, it was worth it. Children got to role play and dress up to their heart's content. Zenchai used to beg me to take him here. 

5. Waterfall, Chiang Mai, Thailand: This northern Thai city is surrounded by waterfalls of various sizes. We found one on a Sunday afternoon and the kids loved it so much we couldn't tear them away. 

Vancouver: The Tasty Location

WHAT makes a location perfect? Sunshine? Beach? Beautiful views? Happy people? Safety? Opportunity? Low cost of living? Community? Clean air?

I know every person has their own preference. But I also know by the big grin on my wife's face whenever she comes home from the store after purchasing groceries that the wide availability of healthy and organic goods is near the top of her list. Actually, put it at THE top.

I have seen her positively brimming with delight at the discovery of an abundant health food store or a restaurant that tickles her fancy or a massive fresh food market.

In some countries we've been to, like India, Ecuador, Brazil and some parts of Europe, it was either hard or too expensive for us to source the type of foods we like for a balanced diet.

But Vancouver is undisputedly fantastic for the range of organic, gluten-free, vegan, vegetarian and fresh food. So much so that Vancouver is now Jamie's No. 1 destination to live. Here you can also find community gardens everywhere, some more imaginative than others (see photo above). 

Here there are organic stores in abundance. There's a Wholefoods not far from where we are based, but just in our local high street there are two excellent alternatives with everything you could wish for and more.

It's a great plus, because we can eat healthily all the time, but Jamie's like a child in a toy store every time she tops up our groceries.

As you probably know, Jamie is a real foodie loves to play and experiment. Admittedly, her nosh is delicious. 

While I love to gobble up her treats, I know we're on a tight budget, too, and have to be prudent with our expenses.

For that reason (and having one fussy young eater) we don't eat out too often, but, invariably, whenever we do I always walk away thinking (or should I say knowing?) that Jamie's grub is far more delicious. 

 

Vancouver: Around The World In 1,111 Days

GIVEN that we started our journey over three years ago by heading close to South America's west coast - Ecuador - we have now practically circumnavigated the globe - in 1,111 days by arriving in Vancouver, Canada from Auckland.

It means that Zenchai, our son, has more or less been travelling half his life. Whereas our daughter, Kobra, knows no other life. She is a true nomad - born on the road, in Brazil, and has rolled with the punches ever since. She transitions from one location to another more easily than any of us. 

Vancouver will be our home for the next three months. It feels strange being in a big city again, having become so used to New Zealand's open spaces and lack of frenzy. 

But we look forward to the changes - in location, climate (far cooler), economy (more expensive, at least with regards to accommodation) - and the opportunity a place like Vancouver will offer us. We've settled into our cosy Laneway Home from which we can see the snow-capped mountains in the distance.

We are here, though, primarily for CrossFit, as I am on a three-month intern program at CrossFit Vancouver, one of the top and pioneering CrossFit facilities in the world.

I have the qualifications to coach (having passed the exams), but that's just theory and coaching is all about putting the knowledge into practice.

So I'm hoping they will teach me to become a coach - to equip me on my journey to transform lives through CrossFit, which promotes better health and well-being through strength and conditioning and changes in diet.

When I left England three years ago and quit my job of 23 years as a print journalist, the plan was to discover a new passion as we travelled the world. It took longer than I had hoped. But that's how it is.

I knew when I first tried CrossFit, though, that this was it. And I have always been one to chase my passions and make dreams (like travelling the world with my family) come true, regardless of what others think or say. 

CrossFit is my new passion and as our travel feels like it is winding down, our attention is focusing more on the future and what that will hold for us. We are planning accordingly. 

Vancouver promises to be a pivotal stop along the way.

New Zealand: Seeing It All On A Budget

IF I had known New Zealand was as spectacularly beautiful as it is, I would have come here sooner. Or at least planned to do so.

Or if I had listened to my wife when she was telling me how special NZ is (she lived there 10 years ago), we'd have maybe visited this part of the world first. Who knows? Or maybe saving NZ for last - or near-last - was a smart move. 

For an outdoors lifestyle, New Zealand offers everything from beach to mountains to skiing to surfing to hiking to tramping to any number of sports. Is there a more scenically beautiful country in the world? 

Although we arrived here before Christmas and spent time in Auckland, Napier and Wellington (my wife's old stamping ground) in the North Island, we desperately wanted to see the South Island, too - without missing too much.

New Zealand isn't cheap, though. We explored a variety of ways of seeing all we could in the near-three weeks remaining at our disposal. But there wasn't a way we could think of - with a family of four - without stretching the budget.

As a single person or a couple, costs can be reduced dramatically (you could even resort to hitch-hiking if you had to), but with little ones it's not that simple, though in Motueka we did meet an interesting and adventurous American/Canadian couple (see Jasonschlarb.com) who had been cycling NZ with a two-year-old!

The big issue for us was how to get around. We ruled out bicycles, obviously. Do we buy a car and then sell it before we leave? Do we go by coach, but then be limited to seeing only what the coach tour allows (and deal with the motion sickness our kids get on buses) and then have to stay in costly hotels? Do we rent a vehicle, but then fork out around NZ$80 per night in accommodation on top? And long distance train travel in NZ is pretty non-existent.

We looked at all sorts of options, but seeing as accommodation and food are usually the two most expensive elements of travel, a rental camper of some description fitted the bill. Why not have a house on wheels?

The regular campers (three or four-berth) were just too expensive at around NZ$120-plus per day (in high season, which it was) and used up too much fuel. Trying to get a relocation camper didn't work either as in NZ the time period given to drive a vehicle from one location to another is limited and fuel doesn't come free as is usually the case when relocating in Australia.

In the end we found the Spaceships/Rockets. These are Toyota cars with double beds in the back. They can be hired in NZ from three locations: Christchurch (which we did); Auckland; Queenstown. They also are classified as cars, which means it's cheaper to take on the ferry from Picton (in the south) to Wellington. The ferry crossing at NZ $258 still wasn't exactly a snip, though.

We shopped around for our Spaceship and got a good deal from the Christchurch location at NZ$55 per day. With a Sat Nav, our daily rental was NZ$60 (approximately £30). We also hired a tent for NZ$100, which came in useful (for storing luggage at night) even though I slept in it only once (usually, Jamie, Kobra and I would kip on the double bed at the back of the Rocket and Zenchai in the reclined passenger seat up front).

That cosy set-up worked well, though had some drawbacks as in summer it stays light for longer and Zenchai often didn't nod off until around 10pm. Also, once or twice his long legs would reach out in the night and knock the controls and we'd wake up with the hazard lights blinking!

Going back to costs, though, you have to also factor in fuel prices, which add up as you cover ground each day. But having refused to shell out for the Galapagos Islands when in Ecuador in 2010, we didn't want to repeat the mistake of not seeing somewhere special (the Galapagos are expensive to see, but completely unique) because of the price. Some experiences are worth any price, if you know what I mean. 

We trimmed our costs further by eating in practically the whole time. We'd stop at supermarkets, buy our produce and cook out with the equipment (two-hob portable cooker) that came with our Rocket vehicle. 

Another cost to bear in mind is campsites. Freedom camping is prohibited in New Zealand anywhere but in designated areas. Fines can be hefty.

We found the DOC (Department of Conservation) campsites to be the best value. Often they would charge NZ$6 per adult and NZ$3 for children aged over five. This meant we were staying for NZ$15 per night. For that, you would at least get the use of a toilet. Usually, there was running water (though not always drinkable). Some sites had showers (but cold). 

Many of the DOC sites are in scenic reserves, by lakes or rivers or the ocean. We found some exceptional places to put our heads down for the night.

However, some regions of NZ have more DOC sites than others and when we couldn't locate one we'd resort to the more pricey campsites  (Top 10, Kiwi etc) that have hot showers, kitchens, TV rooms, playgrounds, pools, internet etc. These were priced anywhere between NZ$20 and NZ$60, though we never paid above NZ$55.

But Jamie and I certainly preferred the DOC sites, just for their beauty, peacefulness and being so close to nature. The more touristy sites were just too busy and lacked any real character or privacy.

When the costs were totalled, though, this is how it was broken down in terms of average daily expenses: campsites NZ$26.60; petrol NZ$52.43; food, drink and essential items NZ$57.66.

Not exactly rock bottom prices, but you'd struggle to find a room for four anywhere on our route for anywhere close to what we spent at campsites. And how could you feed your family three times a day for less than what amounts to £30 without venturing to a fast-food joint?

If we'd had longer to travel, we would have probably opted to buy a second-hand camper. They can be cheap in NZ. I met a Frenchman at our hostel in Auckland who had bought a camper for NZ$3,500, driven over 10,000km over two months and sold it for about the same price! It can be done.

We could have been more lavish with our spending and gone on plane trips, tours, cruises etc. But, with two young children, that didn't really work. We had our enjoyment by exploring mostly what New Zealand offers for free - the great outdoors.

We skipped many places we had hoped to visit, but that just means we'll have to come back again. 

World Travel: Surviving Motion Sickness

I'M not the worst in our family for motion sickness. I recall years ago, when on holiday in Mauritius on a deep-sea fishing trip (my pre-vegan days), being sick the entire time (about six hours). And as a kid, when we used to take family trips through Europe, I'd often have my head hanging out of the window of my dad's Renault 16 (especially on winding roads) or whatever model he had at the time.

But Zenchai's in a different league. He'll get sick if we go over a speed bump! No, I'm exagerating the point, but the little guy is terribly sensitive to motion sickness. He's okay on city buses, trains, quad bikes and Indian/Thai tuk-tuks, but fast taxis, bumpy aeroplane rides, rough ferry crossings and long-distance coaches in particular have his little guts stewing.

What prompted this blog was our trip down from Auckland to beautiful Napier by coach on New Year's Day. I thought it was a relatively smooth one, but not Zenchai. 

About two hours into the journey, after he'd chowed down a few peanut butter sandwiches (not the Stig sandwiches he's pictured with above) for breakfast, he started to feel ill. 

I noticed the signs - the frequent yawning. But we didn't react fast enough. Zenchai complained he wasn't feeling well. Jamie, sat in front of us with Kobra, started searching for a bag and then handed it to me. I tried getting it open. But it was too late. As I fumbled trying to find the bag opening, Zenchai projectile vommited all over himself and me. Yuck!

Then something amazing happened. An Australian passenger travelling alone (a man and father of two teenage boys) quickly dashed to the rescue and offered his help!

Armed with a bag of baby wipes, I accepted his assistance (of course) and handed them to him. Between us, we managed to mop up most of the sick. 

We've been through this scenario before, especially when in Ecuador, where the roads are winding and the drivers handle them like maniacs.

So armed with some experience, here are our tips for surviving motion sickness with children.

1. Don't read.

2. Get fresh air (if possible).

3. Watch the road and get a seat near the front if on a coach or bus.

4. Get your child to sleep if he or she can.

5. Travel on an empty stomach (which is contrary to a lot of advice, but just my experience). If you must eat, try potato chips (we don't usually eat them, but they apparently work for those with sensitive guts and we tried it recently on Zenchai - with success)

6. Carry extra clothing.

7. Make sure you have sick bags.

8. Take baby wipes or something to clean up a mess with.

After Zenchai had emptied the contents of his belly, he was pretty much okay. He at least survived the remaining three hours on the road, though Kobra had her turn and spat up all over Jamie, who isn't a great coach traveller either.

But don't let all of this put you off embarking on long travels with your children. After all, if we can survive then surely anyone can. 

 

Pai: A Slice Of Relaxation

SEVEN hundred and sixty two stomach-churning bends later and I was in Pai, a hippy town three hours north of Chiang Mai.

I'd had my fill of sitting, scrunched up and sweating, at the back of a poorly-ventilated mini-van with a driver who, if I didn't know better, had been hired from Ecuador, where they all drive like they are late for dinner.

I should have known what was ahead when I saw the sick bags conveniently placed in front of every seat. But I survived. The discomfort was all worth it and for £3 I couldn't really complain. 

Pai is set amidst trees and sloping green, lush hills. From the balcony of my hotel room, I could see the beautiful landscape and hear the river flowing. This getaway was my birthday gift from Jamie and the kids - yes, time off. The children cried when I gathered my bags and dropped them off at the bus station. But Jamie had felt bad that almost every year my birthday passes as a non-event, so she wanted to do something special. 

Of course, I'd have liked to celebrate surrounded by my family. But being in Pai alone was not only different, but just what I needed.

I'd considered visiting one of the southern islands instead, but didn't fancy jumping on a jet again so soon after our recent escapade to Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and, briefly, Bangkok. 

Full-time parenting is intense and so, too, is regular airline travel. I wanted/needed some reprieve. Pai hit the spot. It's laidback, has plenty to do (hiking, rafting, yoga, swimming, sightseeing etc), there are dozens of vegetarian/organic restaurants to lounge around in, massages to be had, a nice public pool (60baht/£1.10 entrance) and many nearby attractions.

At night there are street vendors selling tasty food and their handcrafted goods. It feels a little commercial, though in a far less intrusive way than other tourist towns I have visited.

Prices are more than reasonable, especially as I was visiting during the off-season when it's not swarming with visitors. I'd certainly consider coming again to Pai, but with the car sick-prone family (if I can get them here without them suffering on the journey) for a longer stay. The cost of renting is far less than in Chiang Mai.

The place reminds me of a cross between Vilcabamba, where we stayed in southern Ecuador, and Capilla Del Monte, the town outside of Cordoba, Argentina where we'd spent Christmas in 2010.

I didn't have enough time in three days to explore all this place has to offer (which is why I would like to return). The options are seemingly endless - adventure rafting, rock climbing, kayaking, mountain biking, zip line adventure, piranha fishing, elephant trekking, hot springs, waterfalls, Pai canyon, temples, cooking courses, markets, Muay Thai boxing, kung fu, tai chi, permaculture courses etc.

I was here to chill out, recharge my batteries and get a feel for the place or else I would have indulged more. I rented a bike (only 70b/£1.20) and cycled six undulating kilometres out of town to the hot springs for a nice soak, taking in some nice views and dodging elephant dung as I went.

The roads aren't especially busy. Most visitors tend to travel by moped and at certain times of day it can become a little congested, though, by comparison, Chiang Mai feels huge and noisy. 

After three days away, Chiang Mai was my next destination. This time I decided to take the local bus (cheaper but slower and longer). There is only one a day - leaving at noon. I got to the bus station early - and waited...and waited.

It did come, eventually. The bus was crammed. I looked for a seat. There were only a few. As I got closer, I realised someone had been sick there. I chose to give it a miss.

So I was back to square one, the mini-van. I got on the next one, grabbing the last available seat, probably the worst spot possible - right beside the driver. My long legs were squeezed into a tight space, shins pressed against the dashboard and my rucksack on my lap. I couldn't move my aching legs as I'd interefere with the driver changing gear. I held this position for the best part of three hours, desperate to get to Chiang Mai, counting down the kilometres as we travelled.

Oh how relieved I was to see the bus terminal in Chiang Mai and Jamie and the kids parked up, waiting. But like most rough journeys home, you feel like you need another break. 

 

 

Chiang Mai: Why Birthdays Are Great

I LOVE birthdays in our family and not for the obvious reasons.

It's because my wife makes and invents great cakes. They're not ordinary cakes. Her recipes are delicious and I'm always encouraging her to produce a book. She uses healthy ingredients - or as healthy as can be for cake-making - and so I can indulge happily without any feelings of guilt or concerns about eating the 'wrong' stuff.

In fact, we encourage our kids to eat Jamie's cakes, which are full of protein, fruits, healthy fats and no cholesterol. She uses goji berries, cashew nuts, coconut cream and butter, dates (instead of sugar), strawberries, pumpkin seeds, spirulina, nuts etc.

For Zenchai's sixth birthday, she produced one of her finest. Zenchai asked for strawberry, vanilla and chocolate and that's precisely what he got. 

Nothing was cooked. And yet it looked - and tasted - like a dream. One of the best ever. The cake lasted more than two days. We had some for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 

Before Zenchai's birthday was over, Jamie was asking me what cake I would like for my birthday (two months down the road) - she's hinting at a durian one, by the way.

That's either devotion or obsession. Jamie likes to eat her own cakes, but possibly not as much as she enjoys making them. 

Zenchai genuinely enjoyed his day. Last year it was in Brazil and, the year before, Ecuador. But he told me the day after that he'd like to spend his next birthday in Thailand. We indulged him in all the things he enjoyed. We took him to his favourite restaurant for lunch - Punpun - where he wanted potato naan and a fresh coconut/cinnamon smoothie. He played all day with his new toys, we took a trip to feed some giraffes at the Night Safari and then topped things off at The Centre Of The Universe, an outdoor salt water swimming complex.

After that, we returned home, as it was dark, cooked Zenchai his favourite mashed potatoes, read him some stories and put him to bed. 

 

World Travel: Is Anywhere Cheap Anymore?

THE question is: is there anywhere in the world that is really 'cheap' to live anymore? And, perhaps more importantly, would you want to live there if there is?

People often refer to Asia as very affordable and there are pockets of places where your money goes really far.

In southern India, for instance, we lived quite cheaply. Our hotel apartment (above) was roughly £5 per day and this was in an upscale resort. That's because in India you can bargain for almost everything.

But elsewhere we haven't found the costs to be equally inexpensive. And I think it's important, too, to make the distinction between travelling solo and as a family. If I were travelling by myself, living in hostels and eating out only for one and at McDonalds (which I wouldn't go near except to use the toilets) or the MSG-laden food hawkers, my daily costs would be reduced substantially. But multiply everything by four if you have a family like mine. You can't really stay in dorms when you have children. 

We are now in Kuala Lumpur, which, when compared to London, is relatively cheap, but not when pitted against other Asian cities we have been to (with the exception of Singapore).

We pay £34 a day for a one-bedroom serviced apartment with a makeshift kitchen. In the developed western world that is a great deal. But in Thailand (Chiang Mai) we were paying about £16 per night. You could find even cheaper deals in CM and if you were by yourself or a smaller family unit - a studio apartment rents for about £10 per night. 

Kuala Lumpur, at least, offers an excellent transport system. Almost each day I commute by train and bus for 90 minutes (each way) to attend my Crossfit class in Petaling Jaya. My transport costs are a mere £2!

We're not convinced either whether eating in saves money when you can, for instance, go to an Indian restaurant for masala dosai and feed the family well for £2.50. 

We don't really go to upscale restaurants. The most expensive it gets for us is when we search out organic restaurants, but even then, when compared to the UK, the prices are far from crazy. The most we've paid for a family meal in KL is £12. 

Back in the UK, we spent on average £113 per week on food when we stayed in Brecon (for Christmas) and £139 whilst in Huddersfield, where we ate in most of the time. Compare that with the average of £114 we spent per week mostly eating out in India. 

So keeping costs down really depends where you are. For us, eating in in England was only marginally more expensive than eating out in India, albeit in a fairly touristy part of India. 

In Thailand the street food is cheap, but (unfortunately) laced with MSG and sugar, so we ended up eating in better restaurants and for more. We ate out most of the time, but also bought lots of fruit and coconuts. You'd be surprised how the costs add up. On average we'd spend about £120 per week on food in Thailand. But Malaysia has been off the chart. 

Our shopping bill at supermarkets in KL can be hefty. As an alternative, I've tried local markets, like Pudu, where you can buy all sorts of vegetables (though the fruit selection is disappointing). I filled a shopping bag for about £8 (mostly veg) and a similar shop in England would have set me back at least £20. 

But supermarkets offer organic produce, which is important to us. Most of the fruits and vegetables in the outdoor markets in KL appear to have been imported from countries like China, where they spray crops heavily.

Although I can get a kilo of fresh lychee for £2 and buy T-shirts for £2, too, a cup of camomile tea at Starbucks in a good neighbourhood will set you back £1.50. On average we have spent over £150 per week in KL. 

Prices for the same product can vary also. For instance, fresh coconuts can go for anything from between 75p to £1.50. It's not outrageous, but more expensive than we paid in Thailand and Brazil (although coconuts in Thailand are far superior in taste).

A whole 1kg durian costs around £2 in KL, a 5.5litre water bottle just over £1 and taxis are good value (though be sure to flag down the red or yellow ones and not the blue taxis, which are exectutive. Tip: make sure the meter is running). 

The cost of going out in KL is hit and miss. Some attractions, like the KLCC play park, are free. Others, like Aquaria, cost me £16 for Zenchai and I. In London, at the Aquarium, it's nearly double and in Florida I found attractions for kids to be really pricey. 

We're heading back to Chiang Mai in Thailand next month, though, because renting an apartment there is cheaper and easier than in Kuala Lumpur. We tried really hard, but couldn't find a way to stay in KL affordably. 

As I wrote in a previous blog, renting in KL is made difficult - almost impossible - for those wishing to stay less than 12 months. 

We couldn't find any reasonable houses or condos, fully furnished and in a safe, clean area near a train station (otherwise you really need a car) for less than £400 per month. Realistically, we were looking at shelling out at least £500. But the majority of apartments go for £500 per month upwards and you can get two/three bedroom places for that amount. In nice areas most people are paying closer to £800-£1,000. 

In Thailand we might end up spending around £300-£400 for lodging, but we'd get even more for our money - greater space and perhaps the use of a pool and gym.

But the downside in Chiang Mai is that there is no metro system - getting around town you have to rely on taxis and rickshaws or hire a moped, which isn't what I want to do with young children (a moped would cost about £300 per month). The traffic is thick and the roads not all built for walking down. We spent about £70 on transport during the month we lived in Chiang Mai. Car rentals are about £400 per month. 

There are always the southern islands of Thailand to visit. But we hear from friends based there that costs are inflated also - mostly because of the rise of tourists willing to pay big bucks and the owners holding out until the off-season.

Of course, there are places to go that won't cost much - even for families, but there's a reason for that: either it's incredibly remote or there's something wrong with it, like ultra polluted or crime-infested. Not everyone wants to take their family to a place like that. 

It's interesting, really, because both Jamie and I have in recent weeks reflected more on our time last year in Brazil, which on the whole is a dearer place to live than in most of Asia. But we found in Piracanga, Bahia, an eco-village by the ocean where it was impossible to be sucked in by consumerism and our outgoings were generally low, that the quality of life (sunshine, beach, river, wholefood diet, living more off the land) was much higher. 

We're not saying we want to return to Brazil or, specifically Piracanga, but it's an example of how getting the balance right can be tough and it often depends on the family's needs and wants. We don't want to be somewhere too remote or basic or, for that matter, in the thick of a bustling city. 

We have been travelling now for over two years and, in terms of affordability and taking into account inflation, the cheapest countries we have visited look something like this (cheapest first): 1. Ecuador; 2. India; 3. Thailand; 4. Brazil; 5. Malaysia; 6. Croatia; 7. Argentina; 8. USA;  9. Uruguay; 10. Western Europe.

 

World Travel: Lessons Learned from Our First Year

We most definitely live and learn travelling the way we do. Mistakes are inevitable, but also invaluable.

That's why every 'bad' experience we've had has effectively been a blessing. It also doesn't harm to learn from what others have been through. Therefore, we thought we'd share with you what information we think has been priceless or helpful from our first 12 months travelling - advice that would most certainly have shortened our learning curve had we known in advance. 

 

Travelling with the sun

Both Claude and I relish the sunshine. So when we mapped out our itinerary to London, we knew that we wanted to follow the sun and be in places during their summers. However, what we did not consider was how our pursuit of warmth would also empty our pockets more quickly.

While it has been fantastic enjoying over a year of summer-like conditions, it has also meant travelling to places during peak season. Had we thought more deeply about travelling with the sun, we could have timed our arrivals into certain cities/areas just before or after the high season.

Something else that did not cross our minds was how travelling with the sun would effect Zenchai's socialisation with other children. By continuously landing in places during summer time, schools have almost always been closed.

When in small villages, like Kukljica in Croatia, this was not so much a problem as potential playmates by the sea were abundant. But in large cities like Buenos Aires, where children weren't roaming freely, this meant lonely playtimes for Zenchai.

Have at least the first night's stay booked

When you arrive in a new location try to have the first night's accommodation pre-booked. Sometimes there's a temptation to take a chance and see what you can find by wondering around - and that's understandable if you're not sure you want to stay. But we've found this rather stressful, especially if you discover the city or town you intend to stay in is fully booked. It's a real pain, particularly if you have children, to go from one hotel/hostel to another, hoping something is available. Going through Europe by car last summer we found ourselves on a few occasions - tired from a long day of driving - cruising down dimly-lit streets in the middle of the night and knocking on doors to find accommodation. Now we check online with tripadvisor and hostelworld and always read reviews, too. It narrows the choice and you discover feedback on whether a place is noisy, a party hostel, has a kitchen, internet etc. 

Challenge of staying with people

On both Claude's and my top ten memories of 2010 was meeting and staying with friends and family. Those moments of union with loved ones have definitely left a huge impression on our hearts.

However, at times those stays didn't always go without a hitch in the sense that we both have felt uncomfortable in instances where our destiny was out of our control. Being reliant on transport, food or basic necessities has at times made us feel powerless, which can create friction for us.

We have learned that we are far more comfortable in other people's spaces if we are able to cater to our basic familial needs and not having to completely pass the buck to those who host us.

Clothing, toys, books etc

With each leg of our trip we have realised our tendency to over-pack, especially clothing, toys for Zenchai and books. This overindulgence created many anxious moments while we waited in queues at the airport to check our luggage.

Would our bags be overweight - again? This is something we are continually refining and with the impending arrival of our newest family member it is also something we need to perfect sooner rather than later.

Suitcases vs Rucksacks

At the moment we are travelling with two suitcases. My monster pink case and Claude's more sensibly-sized case. However, we have encountered many situations where having a rucksack each would have made for smoother travel.

Manage your money smartly

Travellers cheques used to be the only way to carry large amounts of currency when travelling. Not anymore. In Ecuador, travellers cheques were practically useless. Claude had to go from one bank to another to find someone willing to cash them. We haven't used them since. We opted for the FairFX card. It's simple to top up and all you require is an ATM machine to get your cash. FairFX offer you the option of having your money in pounds, dollars or Euros but don't charge for currency conversions or withdrawals (however, banks in certain countries, like Argentina and Uruguay, do impose a fee per transaction - roughly £3, which adds up). It's also worth noting - and checking - before travelling which credit cards certain countries prefer. For instance, Visa is the favoured card in Argentina. And in some countries, like Ecuador, credit card transactions are minimal, so you need access to cash. Do your homework.

Buy fruit and veg locally 

We do our best to purchase fruit and veg from local markets. The produce tends to be fresher, cheaper and local. It also helps keep them in business. In Marrakech, for instance, the difference in price between the markets and supermarket chains was ridiculous. If you're on a tight budget, it is definitely worth considering.

Check your dates!

Twice we turned up in Buenos Aires on days when the city had practically closed down. Once was a national holiday and on another occasion it was the Census. When you need access to shops - particularly for food - you don't want to be caught out. So before travelling or nailing down your dates, it's worth confirming your arrival dates don't coincide with a public holiday. Don't rely on the travel agent to tell you. 

Driving on slower roads

Tolls in France and most of Europe are really expensive. We couldn't believe last summer how much the cost of driving in Europe had escalated. We came off the toll roads in France, Italy, Slovenia and Croatia several times and, guess what? The experience was much more pleasurable: you get to see the real countryside and villages. You see so much more than when bombing up and down motorways, which tend to always look the same. Though it was much slower, going on the A roads is a lot cheaper. If you're not in a hurry, we'd certainly recommend it. 

Have a sick bag when on public transport

We had several incidents - in coaches, cars, taxis, ferries, aeroplanes - when a sick bag was required and we didn't have anything at the ready. In Ecuador, the taxis and public buses were awful in terms of smooth riding. Zenchai sometimes would throw up within minutes! Some plane rides are rough also. It's just better to be equipped and have plastic/paper bags easily at hand. You won't be sorry. 

Always check pots and pans when renting

It's easy when renting an apartment to look the place over, sign on the dotted line and part with your cash without looking in the cupboards to see what they have provided. Check the details. Make sure the accommodation offers what is being advertised. We got caught out in Cuenca last year when the kitchen didn't even have any gas for the burner! We also had to beg for dishes, chopping boards, knives etc - items you'd think would be standard. Don't assume kitchens are fully equipped. 

Have a camera on hand and spare battery charged

Do you ever find that when you leave behind your camera a photo opportunity presents itself? We do. So we decided that the golden rule is always take the camera - just in case. Better to have it and not use it than to have a once-in-a-lifetime moment pass you by. Charge your spare battery also. We do it almost immediately whenever one of our batteries dies. Having photographic memories is priceless. Be organised. 

Divide and conquer 

Doing everything as a family can be tiring and absorbing. Sometimes we, as parents, need a break - from partners, being parents and children. We learned to split the responsibilities. We still do things together, but, more now than before, also take turns in looking after Zenchai and going on excursions with him. It's made a significant difference and can really help restore some sanity and reduce the demands of being a close-knit family. 

Carry snacks and a pen

With young children - and pregnant women - you can't go far without having snacks. If, like us, your dietary requirements mean you prefer not to rely on junk food and sweets etc, it's essential to do some shopping in advance and get stocked up in case of any emergencies. Kids can quickly become a handful if they get over-hungry, so we try always to remember to pack fruit and snacks or make the effort to find out where there is a food source nearby. A pen can also come in handy. You never know when you may have to jot down some important information. So keep one tucked away in your bag or pocket at all times. 

Do your research when eating out

When eating out, we make sure we've done some investigating first. We use the Happy Cow and Vegan backpackers websites a lot. They are excellent for details on where to eat vegan around the world. We also have our travel guidebooks, that make recommendations. However, don't always trust the information. We've gone searching for restaurants with great reviews on Happy Cow only to find they no longer exist. That's why it's always useful to have a back-up plan. Similarly, guide books are usually a year or so out of date by the time you buy it. Prices can change. We learned the hard way that it pays to check the prices before sitting down. Usually, restaurants will display their menu and prices in the window. 

Buy watermelons whole

There's a good way to check if a watermelon is ripe: put it to your ear and tap it. If it sounds hollow then it's ready for consumption. But sometimes shops and small grocers will sell large watermelons in halves or slices. This can result in a melon sitting out for a while. We had one case in San Marcos Sierras, Argentina, where it was hot and we bought a half watermelon. By the time we sat down to eat it (about 30 minutes after the purchase), it had virtually turned to alcohol. The best way to avoid this is buy them whole or watch them cut a whole one open if you want slices. 

 

World Travel: Items We're Glad We Didn't Leave Behind

Packing for a long-term trip requires careful planning. The inclination is always to take much more than you really need. But here are the items, in no particular order, we found invaluable on our travels last year.

Macbook Pro

Although Jamie is pregnant, this is her little baby. She treats it with love and affection. It's superb for anything creative, has bags of memory and starts quickly. Being slim and sleek in design makes it easier to carry than most large laptops, too. It's also more sturdily built. Macbook Pros aren't cheap, but they are worth it. We use ours not just for writing blogs, researching online and managing our travels, but also to stay in touch via Skype, Facebook and email. 

  Scottevest 

The ultimate travel jacket, especially when going through airports. There are dozens of pockets (22, in fact) of various sizes. I can carry his camera, books, money, passport, items of clothing, snacks etc comfortably. For those who have phones and ipods or even ipads, you could easily add these as well. The sleeves detach for warm weather and is good to wear in light showers. Going through airport security, I just remove the jacket instead of having to place all his items into trays. It's comfortable and cool enough to wear on the plane as well, meaning you have easy access to all your gadgets. 

Keen Men's Newport H2 waterproof sandal 

 I have had these for several years. I bought them in the US. For the last year I wore them almost every day and everywhere. I've hiked and run in them, gone through salt water seas and oceans, and yet they are nearly as good today as they were when purchased. The Keens don't smell either like same sandals tend to with prolonged use. 

Fitmag Exercise Bands 

If you love to exercise or just want to stay in shape, there are plenty of ways to do so, even when travelling. I carry my resistance bands on every trip (easy to pack) and use them almost daily. Mine were made by fitmag (the pro+ range costing around £20), but there are plenty of brands on the market. The point is, if you are used to weights and need an alternative, these chords or bands are the answer. They offer a multitude of different exercises and travel well (a bag is supplied). My only gripe is that one of the bands snapped when using it. But I've still managed fine with the others. 

Memory Stick

As we have two laptops, this is an essential gadget for sending copy from one machine to another, especially if you are in a location where you can't get an internet connection. Sticks with a greater memory are invaluable also for saving and backing up photos. 

Berkey Water filter bottle 

Although we have mixed feelings about the Travel Berkey water filter system we purchased, the Sport Berkey bottle (price around $28 US) has been an excellent purchase. We take it everywhere with us and, because you can fill it with water from any running water source, the savings on buying water has been considerable. The bottle is a constant travel companion, although it does need regular cleaning and the filter requires changing after a while. 

Platypus Sunscreen shirt for Zenchai

This was a birthday gift for Zenchai several years ago. Made in Australia and from nylon and lycra, it protects him from the sun and was bought specifically for that reason. This means you don't have to plaster him in sunscreen all over. The top is comfortable and durable, too.

Garmin Sat Nav 

We purchased a Garmin Nuvi 1490 GPS system last (British) summer, shortly before leaving for Europe by road on our way to Croatia. I wasn't sold on the idea at first. I'm an avid map-reader, but at the end of the trip I admitted it was a God-send. In some countries road signs are impossible to read. The Garmin eliminated a lot of stress. We updated to include US maps for when we went to Florida last September and October and I used it extensively. Our model gave the speed, notified us of speed limits and speed cameras etc. The only hiccup we had was when driving to London from Croatia and going through Italy, where the Garmin seemed to lose track of where it was. In some locations, especially when driving up or down mountains, the Garmin can't find a signal. Overall, it was invaluable. 

Ridesafer Children's Travel Vest

We bought this item to save us carrying around the world a child's car seat. We put it on Zenchai and buckle him in to the car seat belts. It provides good comfort and is easily transportable. In countries where using seat belts isn't considered essential (like Morocco and South America), the travel vest is really handy. There are down sides: it can get hot to wear in humid climates and can be a pain to buckle and unbuckle when on short and frequent-stop journeys; sometimes Zenchai, when restless, would mess with the buckles (which is a worry) and, without the elevation of a car seat, he'd struggle to see out of the windows clearly. But for the sake of your child's safety, those are inconveniences worth tolerating. 

Floats for Zenchai

A cheap buy in Kukljica, Croatia (about £2), but very useful. Some more expensive types are difficult to get on. Ours are easily inflated in seconds and slip on. They kept Zenchai afloat in pools and rough seas. 

Norelco Philips electric razor

The cheapest shaving option is probably disposable wet blades that can be bought from chemists or supermarkets. But my face is sensitive to these. He uses the Norelco, which we got for around £40. It gives a close shave, is easy to clean (can be washed under a hot tap) and charges quickly, so can be used without the chord plugged in. It's durable also. Mine has survived several drops and fallen to pieces. But it worked perfectly when reassembled. 

Red Marmot hooded rain jacket

We bought this all-season jacket in New York for Jamie a few years ago prior to a trip to Costa Rica. It's proved useful ever since for wherever we have travelled. It's lightweight, easy to pack, waterproof, breathable and comfortable. 

Olympus Stylus 400 

You can't go on a long journey like this without a camera. Although our silver Olympus is a seven-year-old digital point-and-shoot purchased on ebay, it's withstood knocks and drops and still taken some impressive photos. We're looking for a new model, because the Olympus, perhaps with old age, isn't performing quite as well with indoor pictures as it used to. But for durability it's stood the test of time and it's a nice size for carrying around and remaining discreet. We've had it on beaches, by rivers, up mountains and in hot, cold and humid climates without a thing going wrong. 

Compression bags

These can either be vacuum-sealed or done manually, by pressing all the air out with hands and knees. What then happens is that all the air is sucked out, leaving the compression bag half as large as it was originally. It's helped us to fit all our clothes and (beach) towels into our cases, leaving space for all our other items. They are easy to pack and unpack and you'll be astonished how much space it can save.