Abrams Family World Travel

World Travel: 200 Not Out

SO after nearly two-and-a-half years travelling as a family - about 850 days - we have reached our 200th blog.

We've been to many countries and places and often people want to know which ones stand out the most.

I frequently ask Jamie which locations she either misses most or would like to re-visit. Her list is much shorter than mine. 

While we haven't yet found the 'perfect' location and don't even believe such a place exists, here are my top 5 hot spots, in no particular order. 

 

KUKLJICA

A picture-perfect village on the island of Ugljan off the coast of Zadar in Croatia. It holds special memories for us. We lived there for two months in the summer of 2010. We could never get enough of the deep blue Adriatic Sea and local, fresh food. We found the locals so friendly and welcoming. The weather was perfect, too. Jamie doesn't even like me mentioning the place, because she yearns to be there. We shall return one day with Kobra, part of whose named was derived from the village and country.

 

BAHIA

WE lived in Piracanga, an eco village south of Itacare, Brazil, for nine months in 2011. Kobra was born there. That makes the place unique in our memories. Our life there was basic. There were no shops. We made our entertainment by visiting the ocean and river and using what was natural around us. We played on the long, deserted sandy beaches. Sharing a home with us were spiders, bats, a rat and, occasionally to steal our fruit, monkeys. Jamie found our existence there too limiting after a long period. But I miss many aspects of the lifestyle, especially just living in a pair of shorts (nothing else required). Zenchai still talks fondly of the place, too, because he made friends there.

 

BRECON

OUR Christmas of 2011 was spent in the Welsh valleys. We did a stint of house-sitting and looking after cats and ducks in a beautiful cottage. It was mostly cold and wet, but the house was so cosy and the scenery spectacular. We liked the people very much. Both Jamie and I felt a strong affinity for the region. 

 

BUENOS AIRES

THE bustling capital of Argentina is a place I'd like to go back to more than to stay or settle. It has so much going for it - loads of places to visit; lots to do; cheap and efficient transport; lots of restaurants; nice people. I got to know it well during the near-three months we lived there in late-2010/early-2011.

It ranked as one of Zenchai's favourite spots, too, because he loved seeing all the classic old cars scattered on the streets. 

 

VARKALA BEACH

ALTHOUGH we were only in India a few months ago (Jan 2012), I look back affectionately on our time there. The weather was perfect and the people so glowing, inquisitive and almost overwhelmingly friendly and helpful. Being by the beach offered our kids a great playground every day. We felt very safe there. Although it was more touristy than we like and India in general is overpopulated, noisy and polluted, Varkala Beach has a great charm about it. Living and being there is so easy. 

 

World Travel: Buffalo Soldier

I CAN'T pinpoint where Zenchai's love for Bob Marley started. But one thing I do know for certain is that it began while we were on the road, possibly in Brazil. Zenchai will be the first to spot the cliched One Love cafes that seem to be dotted all over the map. He will even find all the rasta paraphernalia. 

For whatever reason, the Marley classic Buffalo Soldier is his absolute favourite song and, given the chance, he plays it over and over. 

It was while in Varkala, India that we first realised he knew the words and heard him bellowing them out whilst playing by the pool.

It turned into an education for him when he started asking "what is a Buffalo Soldier?" We had fun guessing, but had to look up the explanation - the name given to black soldiers in the US army by native Americans during the US Civil War. More specifically, Marley wrote about those black soldiers who fought during the Indian Wars after 1866 and symbolised black resistance. 

Here is what Zenchai imagined a Buffalo Soldier to look like:

I'm not sure, but Zenchai could possibly be the first shaven-headed rasta in history.

(Gabriel, if you are reading this maybe you could answer. Actually, I think you have a lot to answer for).

World Travel: Is Anywhere Cheap Anymore?

THE question is: is there anywhere in the world that is really 'cheap' to live anymore? And, perhaps more importantly, would you want to live there if there is?

People often refer to Asia as very affordable and there are pockets of places where your money goes really far.

In southern India, for instance, we lived quite cheaply. Our hotel apartment (above) was roughly £5 per day and this was in an upscale resort. That's because in India you can bargain for almost everything.

But elsewhere we haven't found the costs to be equally inexpensive. And I think it's important, too, to make the distinction between travelling solo and as a family. If I were travelling by myself, living in hostels and eating out only for one and at McDonalds (which I wouldn't go near except to use the toilets) or the MSG-laden food hawkers, my daily costs would be reduced substantially. But multiply everything by four if you have a family like mine. You can't really stay in dorms when you have children. 

We are now in Kuala Lumpur, which, when compared to London, is relatively cheap, but not when pitted against other Asian cities we have been to (with the exception of Singapore).

We pay £34 a day for a one-bedroom serviced apartment with a makeshift kitchen. In the developed western world that is a great deal. But in Thailand (Chiang Mai) we were paying about £16 per night. You could find even cheaper deals in CM and if you were by yourself or a smaller family unit - a studio apartment rents for about £10 per night. 

Kuala Lumpur, at least, offers an excellent transport system. Almost each day I commute by train and bus for 90 minutes (each way) to attend my Crossfit class in Petaling Jaya. My transport costs are a mere £2!

We're not convinced either whether eating in saves money when you can, for instance, go to an Indian restaurant for masala dosai and feed the family well for £2.50. 

We don't really go to upscale restaurants. The most expensive it gets for us is when we search out organic restaurants, but even then, when compared to the UK, the prices are far from crazy. The most we've paid for a family meal in KL is £12. 

Back in the UK, we spent on average £113 per week on food when we stayed in Brecon (for Christmas) and £139 whilst in Huddersfield, where we ate in most of the time. Compare that with the average of £114 we spent per week mostly eating out in India. 

So keeping costs down really depends where you are. For us, eating in in England was only marginally more expensive than eating out in India, albeit in a fairly touristy part of India. 

In Thailand the street food is cheap, but (unfortunately) laced with MSG and sugar, so we ended up eating in better restaurants and for more. We ate out most of the time, but also bought lots of fruit and coconuts. You'd be surprised how the costs add up. On average we'd spend about £120 per week on food in Thailand. But Malaysia has been off the chart. 

Our shopping bill at supermarkets in KL can be hefty. As an alternative, I've tried local markets, like Pudu, where you can buy all sorts of vegetables (though the fruit selection is disappointing). I filled a shopping bag for about £8 (mostly veg) and a similar shop in England would have set me back at least £20. 

But supermarkets offer organic produce, which is important to us. Most of the fruits and vegetables in the outdoor markets in KL appear to have been imported from countries like China, where they spray crops heavily.

Although I can get a kilo of fresh lychee for £2 and buy T-shirts for £2, too, a cup of camomile tea at Starbucks in a good neighbourhood will set you back £1.50. On average we have spent over £150 per week in KL. 

Prices for the same product can vary also. For instance, fresh coconuts can go for anything from between 75p to £1.50. It's not outrageous, but more expensive than we paid in Thailand and Brazil (although coconuts in Thailand are far superior in taste).

A whole 1kg durian costs around £2 in KL, a 5.5litre water bottle just over £1 and taxis are good value (though be sure to flag down the red or yellow ones and not the blue taxis, which are exectutive. Tip: make sure the meter is running). 

The cost of going out in KL is hit and miss. Some attractions, like the KLCC play park, are free. Others, like Aquaria, cost me £16 for Zenchai and I. In London, at the Aquarium, it's nearly double and in Florida I found attractions for kids to be really pricey. 

We're heading back to Chiang Mai in Thailand next month, though, because renting an apartment there is cheaper and easier than in Kuala Lumpur. We tried really hard, but couldn't find a way to stay in KL affordably. 

As I wrote in a previous blog, renting in KL is made difficult - almost impossible - for those wishing to stay less than 12 months. 

We couldn't find any reasonable houses or condos, fully furnished and in a safe, clean area near a train station (otherwise you really need a car) for less than £400 per month. Realistically, we were looking at shelling out at least £500. But the majority of apartments go for £500 per month upwards and you can get two/three bedroom places for that amount. In nice areas most people are paying closer to £800-£1,000. 

In Thailand we might end up spending around £300-£400 for lodging, but we'd get even more for our money - greater space and perhaps the use of a pool and gym.

But the downside in Chiang Mai is that there is no metro system - getting around town you have to rely on taxis and rickshaws or hire a moped, which isn't what I want to do with young children (a moped would cost about £300 per month). The traffic is thick and the roads not all built for walking down. We spent about £70 on transport during the month we lived in Chiang Mai. Car rentals are about £400 per month. 

There are always the southern islands of Thailand to visit. But we hear from friends based there that costs are inflated also - mostly because of the rise of tourists willing to pay big bucks and the owners holding out until the off-season.

Of course, there are places to go that won't cost much - even for families, but there's a reason for that: either it's incredibly remote or there's something wrong with it, like ultra polluted or crime-infested. Not everyone wants to take their family to a place like that. 

It's interesting, really, because both Jamie and I have in recent weeks reflected more on our time last year in Brazil, which on the whole is a dearer place to live than in most of Asia. But we found in Piracanga, Bahia, an eco-village by the ocean where it was impossible to be sucked in by consumerism and our outgoings were generally low, that the quality of life (sunshine, beach, river, wholefood diet, living more off the land) was much higher. 

We're not saying we want to return to Brazil or, specifically Piracanga, but it's an example of how getting the balance right can be tough and it often depends on the family's needs and wants. We don't want to be somewhere too remote or basic or, for that matter, in the thick of a bustling city. 

We have been travelling now for over two years and, in terms of affordability and taking into account inflation, the cheapest countries we have visited look something like this (cheapest first): 1. Ecuador; 2. India; 3. Thailand; 4. Brazil; 5. Malaysia; 6. Croatia; 7. Argentina; 8. USA;  9. Uruguay; 10. Western Europe.

 

Kuala Lumpur: Breakfast Tales

WE aren't the kind of family that eats the usual eggs, bacon, sausage and toast breakfast. Nor do either of my children know what Cocoa Krispies, Frosted Flakes or even Weetabix are.

We seem to fall into a routine breakfast that is location-dependant. In Croatia it was heaping large amounts of watermelon. In Argentina we had fruit salads with tahini-honey dressing and bee pollen.

Brazil brought us chia seed/banana pancakes at first before we evolved to mouth-watering chocolate pudding with homemade granola. In India we all loved a good masala dosai and in England Zenchai always started his day with his grandmere's homemade bread followed by a (vegan) protein shake (we use the Sunwarrior brand). 

Since being in Kuala Lumpur our accomodation has been diverse, sometimes having a kitchen and sometimes not. When we didn't have a kitchen we ate masala dosai or fruits, then when we had a well-appointed kitchen, I made granola and smoothies (almost every store-bought variety of cereal is sugar-coated or well overpriced). Now we have a kitchen, but it is pretty lame. 

When we lived back London I used to make a scrummy, nutritious chia seed pudding. Zenchai used to lap it up. So I pulled out all the stops and created a travelling rendiditon of it. Fortunately, the stores here have a huge variety of health foods, so it was pretty easy.

However, I haven't used chia seeds even though they sell them here. Instead, I use Thai sweet basil seeds (we have some leftover from our last trip here), which react the same as chia.

Kuala Lumpur Breakfast of Champions:

2-4 TBS Thai sweet basil seeds or chia seeds

water or nut milk (enough to cover the seeds)

1/4 - 1/2 C coconut milk (depending on how coconutty you like it)

splash vanilla essence

dribble maple syrup or honey (optional)

one chopped banana

2-4 dates

chopped brazil nuts

dried mulberries

goji berries

Here is the skinny:

Pour the water or nut milk over the seeds, add the vanilla and maple syrup. Stir until well combined. Then add the coconut milk, stir well and place in fridge for 5-10 minutes. While the seed mixture is in fridge you can chop the banana, brazil nuts and dates. When the fridge time is up, add the remaining goodies. Spoon into mouth. Smile, it tastes naughty but it is packed with nutrition.

 

Kuala Lumpur: The Asian Toilet Mystery

I DON'T spend my days dreaming up blogs like this. I just want to make that clear. 

This subject just came to me because on many occasions since we've been in Asia (India, Thailand and Malaysia) I've had to take Zenchai to the toilet when there has been just a hole in the ground (like the one pictured above at one of our favourite restaurants). It's otherwise known as a squat toilet and common in many other parts of the world, too.

The squat toilet itself is not a problem. Zenchai, like many young kids, has a perfect squat technique and can hold the position for hours, unlike most adults. 

There were still two things I couldn't quite figure out, though. First was the fact that when you drop your pants, often they land on a floor wet from pee or water. Yuck!

Often in these circumstances I have Zenchai take off his shorts to avoid this, but it becomes a tricky balancing act as so many of the toilets are too small for two people.

Second is the cleaning procedure. In most of these toilets there is either a bucket of water and scoop or a hose spray. These are used for flushing and washing yourself afterwards.

That's fine. But what I also noticed is that in about 90 per cent of these toilets, there wasn't a piece of paper in sight. 

So while cleaning yourself with water is easy, how do you then dry yourself and avoid walking around for the next hour in wet underwear?

Usually, Zenchai has had on his swimmers and hasn't been bothered by having a wet bottom. But on some other occasions I've had to rush off to find paper.

It transpires that the locals in Asia always carry paper with them - or at least I hope they do. And in some cases I've seen bus receipts thrown down the toilet hole - I guess any piece of paper will do.

So the important piece of advice I am offering here is that when travelling through Asia or other parts of the globe where a toilet is just a hole in the floor, make sure (a) you have a good squat and (b) carry paper with you at all times. 

 

Kuala Lumpur: Living Out Of A Box And The Rent Game

DON'T believe everything you hear and read: "Asia is cheap"; "Renting in Kuala Lumpur is easy".

Sure, there are parts of Asia which aren't costly at all, like parts of India, where we visited in January. And you can find places to stay in KL without difficulty - if you're prepared to commit to a one or two-year contract or live in the middle of nowhere, without easy access to public transport or stay in accommodation that isn't clean or safe. There are some compromises we don't want to make.

We've been in Malaysia two weeks, searching hard for a place to make home for a while, beginning in Penang and now Kuala Lumpur, and we've not yet seen an apartment!

Agents don't seem to respond to emails and one never even showed for our appointment. Most, though, seem to give up the moment you say you want to rent for only five or six months. How many times have I heard the words "you won't get anything for that price on a short-term let"?

The prices are, by Asian standards, almost through the roof. There are deals to be had, but you have to really look deeply to find them. However, the cost of renting here is in many places comparable with back home in the UK, somewhere I consider really expensive.

We've been advised to look instead for serviced apartments, but most are too small for the price and a family. Plus their idea of a kitchen is a microwave oven. And they are not cheap either.

On the positive side we sometimes can eat out - and well - for as little as £2 for the whole family and travelling a long way across the city by train doesn't set me back much more than £1. However, you also have to be disciplined living in a city where shops are everywhere and beckoning you to spend, spend and spend. But accommodation is always the big cost for the family traveller and we haven't been able to score any cheap digs so far.

We are soldiering on, but moving from hotel/guesthouse to hotel/guesthouse is tough work. Living often in a small, square room with two children full of energy and often sharing bathrooms with other tenants has its many challenges. We're tired of the thin walls where we can hear our neighbour's music at midnight and having to walk through smokey common rooms. We want our own space - and fast! We want to be able to eat in instead of out all the time. 

Living out of our rucksacks isn't simple either. It's okay for a few days, but we've been at it solidly for weeks now and off-and-on for months.

KL has a lot going for it, especially for kids. We like the city, though we are not really city people. The public transport (train) system is excellent. The city is mostly clean and feels safe, although there are always reports of muggings and robberies etc.

Our time here is definitely temporary, though we want to begin enjoying it more and that's proving hard when nearly all our time is consumed by research and making phone calls.

Living on the road may sound exotic to some, but at times like this it's as testing and exhausting as any paid job I've had. 

 

 

Singapore: Shopping Malls, Skyscrapers And Cultural Diversity

THOUGH I was in Singapore only for four days, I was impressed by what I saw and experienced. 

It is particularly clean. Everything seems to run smoothly and without much of a hint of chaos. It is, like New York, very walkable. The pavements are wide and cars even stop to let you cross the road!

The signposting is clear. It's not so big that you have to rely on public transport to get everywhere. I walked solidly for about eight hours on my first day and covered a large portion of the city.

There is a lot going on - loads of attractions - and, for a city, there are plenty of trees and green spaces. No wonder Singapore is known as 'Garden City'. I noticed government initiatives in many places encouraging the population to make their city more ecologically friendly. 

The modern architecture is pretty spectacular. With the warm, humid climate, tall skyscrapers and waterfront, downtown has a Miami feel to it (without the tackiness), but with a touch of Monte Carlo thrown in and an atmosphere that is, for want of a better word, orderly.

There's a mostly Chinese and Indian culture served by Chinatown and Little India (the best place I found for internet shops). Languages spoken are English, Mandarin, Malay and Tamil. 

Foodwise, you can get almost anything you like. Actually, you can get your hands on everything here. Singapore is shopping mall crazy. They are abundant downtown and all are stunningly large, containing the designer stores. There's a Starbucks on every corner it seems. The economy, it appears, is booming. Singapore is, according to most lists, one of the richest countries in the world.

Although goods are not as cheap as in Thailand, it doesn't cost anywhere near as much to eat out in Singapore as it does in Europe or the US - if you operate prudently. 

For a more authentic feel, you can munch at the many hawker centres where the food markets are. They are everywhere. I also went into the ethnic areas for a more genuine feel of the city and to escape the giant malls. 

Little India has restaurant after restaurant and shops selling goods at discounted prices. There is also a small arab quarter and ample choice for vegetarians/vegans if you look hard enough.

But the Singaporians like their meat. Frogs are something of a delicacy, too. Most nights and especially on weekends, the streets are full of tables and restaurants jammed with customers. TV screens in restaurants show the Premiership football live from England. 

Remnants of the former British Empire are everywhere, not least The Raffles hotel, named after Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, who turned Singapore into a busy port and the city created by Raffles remains practically the same today in layout as it was nearly 200 years ago.

Singapore is a mix of old and new and contrasting cultures. People work hard and, from what I saw, spend hard, too. 

The island (only 604sq km) is densely populated and though everything seems so clean and controlled, Singapore is not without its problems, waste disposal being one of them. Most of it being incarcerated. But the need to find alternative solutions has prompted the urgency to work with the people to improve methods of recycling.

People clearly care about their city although the cost of living here is one of the highest in all of asia (behind Japan). I didn't notice it too much, probably because I declined to shop at all the modern stores. There's definitely a cheaper way to surviving a place like this, though the heftiest costs are for accommodation and schooling, something that is more difficult for most residents to avoid.

 

 

 

 

 

Singapore: Flying Into The Future

CHANGI airport has a glimmering, expansive and futuristic feel to it that almost takes your breath away. So immaculate and space-age like, it's as if the Singaporians have thought of everything.

If there is a ever an airport to be stranded at, especially with kids, Singapore is the one.
Just so happened that I was travelling alone. But there's a play area, family zone and toys and books section, not to mention an entertainment deck and baby-care room.

For adults the list is even longer, from spas and massages to strolling through one of five gardens, taking a plunge in the rooftop swimming pool, TV lounges, business centres and 500 free internet stations.

Singapore is a busy airport with 301,711 flights in 2011 - one  every 100 seconds!

That said, Changi is so big and organised you don't feel as if you can't move and the queues were not excessive when I travelled.

On my journey out of Singapore (to Penang), I was so sweaty walking to the train station from my hotel and getting to the airport in the middle of the day that I needed to take a shower.

Luckily for everyone on my flight, Changi had the facilities. It cost S$8.50 (£4.25), but you get a towel and luxury service. If you wanted - and had the time and budget - you could throw in a massage or spend time in a jacuzzi.

Needless to say that when I arrived  at Changi from Chang Mai (which, comparatively, seemed like another world), I was spoiled for choice as to how to further my journey into the city.

My options were the airport shuttle/limousine ($45-50), car rental, taxi ($18-38), train ($1..40-$2) or bus (under $2). The exchange rate is roughly $2 for every pound.

I opted for the train. And, as I suspected would be the case, it was immaculate, efficient and cheap.

I noticed the penalty signs for smoking ($1,000) and eating or drinking ($500) and wondered whether leaving my fingerprints on the pole I was holding on to would be a violation of one kind or another.

There were even arrows on the floor as you wait to board the train, telling those getting on where to stand and those disembarking (or 'alighting' as they like to say here) where to go.

As I headed out of the airport, though, everything started to go downhill, metaphorically speaking, of course.

Lugging my heavy rucksack on my back and carrying the other over one shoulder, I emerged from the train station nearest my lodging and searched in darkness for my road.

Although it happened to run by the train stop, there was no indication of which way the numbers ran or which direction I should head. I asked a few people, but no-one seemed to know. So I took a wild guess and, in the humidity, lumbered on.

After about 10 minutes and with no hotel in sight, I took a detour to find a taxi. I stood on a busy street corner and flagged down whatever cabs came my way.

Having recently been in India, where taxi drivers will do anything for your business, I was surprised when six taxis stopped and each refused my custom, using excuses like 'I don't know where it is'.

Eventually, one driver did tell me where to go, but, bizarrely, showed no interest in driving me. I walked on another 800m, through a vibrant (mostly Chinese) restaurant area. The pavements were packed with diners, and I passed by durian stalls displaying more of these giant-sized, prickly fruits than you could possibly count.

By the time I arrived at my hotel I was so hot that I feared a local might make a citizen's arrest for me dripping my sweat all over the pavement.

I checked in to my soul-less 'room without a view' and tried taking a shower, but it didn't work (I got it going eventually the next day) and, given the lateness of the hour and my hunger levels, had a quick wash and ventured out to eat.

I settled for a couple of coconuts  (juice and flesh) for an expensive $8 and headed back for a night's rest to see what this sprawling city would bring me in the day time.

 

India: Goodbye - For Now

OUR time in India came and went so quickly it felt as if we were leaving just as we were getting started.

Kerala was supposed to be an introduction for us and as with any introduction there follows a chapter or two or three….So I suspect we will be back one day. When and where I have no clue. But India is such a gigantic country that there are endless territories to explore and possibilities for adventure. 

We all enjoyed our time here. The people, so colourful and full of character, were on the whole very gentle, welcoming and friendly. The food was delicious, plentiful and incredibly affordable (compared to Europe). The towns were noisy and calamitous - yet full of life, commotion and, sadly, pollution and litter.

Nonetheless, there is so much more to this country that one day I would like to see, discover and experience.

India, though, really is one of those places where you couldn't ever be sure what you were going to see next. A local had told Bob Lesson, our friend from London, about the expression "Things like that happen in India." And, really, just about anything can occur.

As with all the countries we have visited, we met many wonderful, interesting and inspiring people, but in India, more so than almost any other nation, there was more ease with which to strike up a conversation with strangers, be they natives or visitors.

We had some adventures and many memorable moments. Kobra finally started walking with more confidence and has barely had to wear shoes since birth 10 months ago. Zenchai's swimming came on in leaps and bounds and he also loved driving tuk-tuks, taking his first ride on the back of a motorbike, steering a houseboat on the backwaters in Alleppey and eating Masala Dosas for breakfast. I could see Zenchai beginning to regain some confidence in himself and in dealing with strangers (which he often doesn't enjoy).

We got to spend time with Bob and it's always a joy to share our travels with people we know - and miss - from 'home'.

Though it felt like we saw so much, in reality it was so little - just a microscopic taster of Indian life. Kerala isn't, I am told, like the rest of India. 

Varkala Beach was perfect for our children. The weather was incredible - sunshine every day without fail. We shall miss the friendly attention of the Indian people and their beaming smiles and head wiggles as well as being able to take our kids to the beach each day. 

Next we're off (briefly) to Malaysia and then to Thailand - a new frontier to explore and enjoy.

 

Amritapuri: Hugging Amma

FOR quite some time I have known of Amma, the hugging Indian guru. She visited London a couple times while we were living there, but for one reason or other I never made it to one of her hug-fests. 

While in Varkala her name kept popping up here and there. Her photo was also plastered in many of the places we frequented. I soon found out we were on Amma's home turf. Her ashram was only about 60km from Varkala. 

After a little investigation, we found out we could have our own Amma experience by hopping on the train for a short jaunt and then taking a taxi the remainder of the way.

While waiting on the Varkala platform we met a Russian family also journeying to see Amma. They had been the week before and really felt something in her presence. We decided to join forces and continue the pilgrimage together.

When we arrived at Amma's ashram (getting off at Karunagappalli station) we were fortunate to have the Russian family as they acted as our guides, showing us around the extensive ashram and how things are done in order to get a hug from Amma.

The ashram itself is of a considerable size with several high-rise flats for residents (more being built, too), a swimming pool, post office, ayurvedic shop, clothing shop/tailors, souvenir stall, several food cafes, temple and so on. Some consider it a five-star ashram. No photos are permitted. 

Around 10am a man sitting at a table began giving out international darshan tokens (darshan, or blessing, is what is recieved from Amma when she hugs you.) We had a 2pm slot, which meant that we were to return to the great hall at 1.30pm to start queueing up. 

We mooched around the ashram and, interestingly, bumped into two seperate people from different countries that we had met on other travels. It felt slightly bizarre! Zenchai and Claude had a swim at the ashram pool (men and women must swim at separate times). We ate (disappointingly, there wasn't any indian food on offer for visitors) and before we knew it, it was time to join the line.

Everything around Amma is meticulously orderly. While sitting in the queue you can feel the flurry of her devotees as they move people to and fro. We sat in the snail-paced line, sweating it out in the heavily stagnant air for just under two hours before we recieved our darshan.

As you are moved along the line closer to Amma things become very serious. There are many hushes and stoney faces (and glances of dismay if you happen to have children that make the wrong squeak or movement). Just before we were a hug away from recieving our own family hug, one of Amma's assistants asked me something. With the continual loud sound of the kirtan in the hall, I thought she asked if we were there to recieve darshan. I of course answered yes and thought 'what a silly question'. Claude then turned to me and said "why did you tell her we were Russian?" I laughed at him and his obvious mistaken hearing.

So it was our turn. Zenchai was thrown in. I am not even sure what happened to him, but later he told me he recieved an Amma kiss not a hug. Kobra was then taken and sat on Amma's lap and I was thrust head-first into Amma's bossom. She or her assistant nuzzled my head a few different directions before it was in the optimal hugging position. Then I heard Kobra crying, but I couldn't move my head. She had been taken from Amma by a devotee and Claude was shoved into the other bossom.

Amma said something, but I couldn't focus because all I could think about was Kobra and getting her. I even murmered to Claude something about trying to get her, but it was lost in the tornado of movement and noise. Seconds later, after we were pulled off Amma, I retrieved Kobra and Zenchai and we were quickly ushered to sit down nearish to the hugging station.

Some people report amazing healings after recieivng darshan from Amma, some feel incredible love or burst into tears. I can't say I felt any of those things. I did feel slightly dizzy but that may have been due to all the head-diving and heat.

My experience was tainted by hearing Kobra cry and not being able to attend to her needs. Claude's experience was similiar to mine except he couldn't appreciate the moment as fully because of the rough handling of Zenchai.

Later, once reuntied with our Russian commrades, we swapped notes on our experiences. As it turns out, Claude hadn't misheard Amma's devotee. Amma was told we were Russian and she gave us our blessing - in Russian! 

We asked Zenchai what he thought of the whole experience. He said "I felt really special." So it wasn't a total loss then!