Abrams Family World Travel

World Travel: Our Favourites - Three Years On

AT the end of our first year of travel, we posted a blog about our favourite spots - places, restaurants, beaches, parks and hotels, locations we’ve travelled to (including before our journey began) and have no trouble recommending. Now that over three years have passed since we started our adventure, we thought it would be a good time for an update.

Places

1. Vancouver, Canada: This city on North America's west coast offers a bit of everything. It ticked a lot of boxes for us. Nearby there's snow and beach for starters. There's an excellent public transport system, a fantastic range of organic/healthy produce, lots to do and see socially, the people are friendly, there's a large alternative schooling community, it's relatively safe and, for Canada, the weather is on the mild side. The only downside was the cost of property and renting. Otherwise, we really loved it - a lot!

2. Napier, New Zealand: Known as the 'Art Deco Capital of the World', this town on the north island is incredibly pretty. There's ocean, stunning surrounding mountains, hiking trails, wonderful rivers, clean parks, loads to do and see, little, if any, traffic, clean air and not lacking anything that we'd want in a big city.

3. Kukljica, Croatia: This little village on the island of Ugljan, across the water by ferry from Zadar, is a magical place for us. It's where I spent much of my childhood during the hot summer months. The Adriatic Sea is gorgeously salty and blue. The village has charm and lots of beautiful, though mostly rocky, bathing spots. It's wonderful during the hot season, but can be harshly cold in the winter.

4. Edinburgh, Scotland: Nice for walking, plenty to see, close to the coast, variety of restaurants, compact.

5. Lisbon, Portugal: Amazing architecture, lovely climate, great squares, economical and efficient public transport.

 

Beaches

1. Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica: Long stretches of sand without a person in sight or litter, stunning sunsets and perfect sea temperatures

2. Whale’s Tail, Costa Rica: Set in a National Park, with impressive caves you can walk through, great sand and warm seas

3. Los Frailes, Ecuador: Clear water, secluded, perfect waves, clean sand, sea temperature consistently good. All it’s missing is some shelter from the scorching sun and somewhere for refreshments (make sure you bring your own!)

4. Englishman’s Bay, Tobago: Long, intimate stretch of beautiful sandy beach with palm trees and clear green water, just where you’d imagine Robinson Crusoe making his base. There’s a shop and café on site also (not built by Crusoe, by the way).

5. Piracanga, Bahia, Brazil: We stayed here for more than 10 months in 2011. We lived practically on the doorstep of miles of vacant sandy beach. The ocean here, while often quite strong, was nearly always the perfect temperature and the sand ideal although we did have to lookout for troublesome little flees. www.piracanga.com

 

Restaurants

1. Napfenyes Etterem, Budapest: So good we ate there every day on our short stay, sometimes twice in a day. Great menu, nice staff. Almost too many delightful dishes, making our choice so much tougher (hence the reason we kept coming back) Rózsa u 39, District VII, Budapest 1077 +36-1-3135555. http://www.napfenyesetterem.hu/

2. Pure Food & Wine, Manhattan, New York: Somewhat pricey, but worth it, if only for the scrumptious desserts. Formal vegan restaurant with raw options. Jamie can't wait to get back there. www.oneluckyduck.com 54 Irving Place New York, NY 10003-2314 Tel: (212) 477-1010

3. Terra, Lisbon, Portugal: Fabulous buffet spread when we visited over seven years ago. Food is fresh and the ginger juice, though laced with sugar, so refreshing. www.restauranteterra.pt Príncipe Real, Rua da Palmeira 15, 1200-311 LISBOA, Portugal Tel: 213 421 407

4. Tiestos, Cuenca, Ecuador: Delicious food delivered in a large tagine (tiesto). The chef can make almost whatever you like and uses his ingredients so perfectly. A hit every time. Juan Jaramillo 7-34, City Centre, Cuenca, Ecuador

5. Buenos Aires Verde, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Outstanding organic vegetarian nosh, always beautifully presented, fresh and nutritious. Plenty of vegan and raw vegan options. Lovely setting, relaxed atmosphere and genuine staff. There is a menu in English. Try the salads, pizza, deserts and smoothies. Reasonably priced as well, especially when compared to most organic raw food/vegetarian restaurants. Gorriti 5657, Buenos Aires. http://www.bsasverde.com/index_en.html. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-0.30am.

 

Parks

1. KL City Park, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: Bang on the doorstep of the Petronas Towers and an enormous shopping centre is a large fountain which backs on to a great park. Whether it's jogging, walking, kids play or splashing in water, this park has it all. It's where I infamously smashed up my shins doing box jumps on marble columns (I slipped!) We spent countless hours there with our kids in the second-to-none children's play area. 

2. El Retiro, Madrid, Spain: Outstanding and in the city centre (near Retiro subway). Has many jogging paths and exercise areas as well as a lake with boats, cycle routes and quieter, shaded areas to sit.

3. Munich Olympic Park, Germany: By the former Olympic stadium, these manicured grounds near the centre of the city were used for the 1972 Games. The park has a lake and river and is perfect for running, cycling, rollerblading or just strolling.

4. Central Park, New York: At the tip of Manhattan, the park has something for everyone in any season, Great for walking, running, playing sports, rollerblading or just to pass some time.

5. Bosques de Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina: We stayed just a few blocks from this park. I went running there a lot (it can get busy) and Zenchai and I hired bicycles. We also went there for days out in the sun, just to play about on the grass. It's a huge park with beautiful gardens and monuments as well as a lake in the middle where you can rent paddleboats to calmly take in the scenery and relax. 

 

Sites/Experiences

1. Iguazu Falls, Argentina: Truly breathtaking, immense natural wonder on the Brazilian and Argentine border. Well worth the ridiculously long bus journey from Buenos Aires and wait for the lashing rain to subside.

2. Milford Sounds, New Zealand: Spectacular scenery on the South Island, visions I can't imagine you'd find anywhere else all in one place - mountains, lakes, hills...every corner turned delivered something special.

3. Blue Mountains, Sydney, Australia: Down Under's answer to the Grand Canyon. Impressive views, walks and cable rides.

4. El Zapato/Cajon Dam, Capilla Del Monte, Argentina: This site took us by surprise. We were on a walk, looking for the dam and stumbled upon an immense mountainscape that looked like something from 'The Land Of The Giants'.

5. Superclassico Football - River Plate v Boca Juniors: A truly memorable occasion for any footy fan - the biggest rivalry in the Argentine league. Whether it's at the River Plate Stadium, where the 1978 World Cup final took place, or Boca's smaller, but more cauldron-like ground, this is an unmissable fixture, more so for the bristling atmosphere than the football. 

 

Hotels/Hostals

1. Villa de las Aves, Uvita, Costa Rica: Fabulous two-floor house-type buildings with private jacuzzi, kitchens and a communal pool set in grounds surrounded by trees, animals and birds. With delightful owners, too - from Australia and UK, this is a spectacular place within reach of Costa Rica's great beaches. http://www.villasdelasaves.com/

2. Bahia Principe Tulum, Playa del Carmen, Mexico: All-inclusive resort hotel close to crystal clear sea water and private white sandy beaches.

3. Mandala, Puerto Lopez, Ecuador: Immaculately decorated – has so much to offer, like a library, games room, restaurant, gardens and music room. http://www.hosteriamandala.info/

4. Hip Hotel, Maastricht, Holland: Super sleek, funky one-time apartments converted into themed hotel rooms at affordable prices. There’s secure parking also, but at a fee. http://www.st-martenslane.com/

5. Intercontinental, Chicago airport: Comfortable, tasteful and sheek. 5300 North River Road, Rosemont. Tel: (847) 544-5300

 

Children's Activities

1. Parkour, Vancouver: Of all the activities we have introduced Zenchai to, this was the best. He couldn't get enough. What kid wouldn't want to run, tumble, climb, crash, jump and generally have heaps of fun exploring movement? http://www.originsparkour.com/

2. Wall Climbing, Kuala Lumpur: We took Zenchai along to the largest indoor climbing facility in Asia - and it is huge. It's all supervised and, while a little daunting, children get the chance to scale some enormous walls and grow in confidence. 

3. River Play, Piracanga, Brazil: During our stint at an eco village, we lived close to a river, which was perfect for children. Zenchai learned both to kayak and swim here in addition to spending countless hours just playing.

4. Children's Museum, Buenos Aires: Although the cost of entry wasn't low, it was worth it. Children got to role play and dress up to their heart's content. Zenchai used to beg me to take him here. 

5. Waterfall, Chiang Mai, Thailand: This northern Thai city is surrounded by waterfalls of various sizes. We found one on a Sunday afternoon and the kids loved it so much we couldn't tear them away. 

World Travel: Wherever We Lay Our Hats...

HERE'S a question we get a lot (and for obvious reasons): "So, where's home?"

We've been travelling so long that we don't really know. Often we say, "wherever we are". And that's the truth. Home is where we (as a family) are. We don't own a house and Kobra, for instance, hasn't lived anywhere for more than six months. 

This year, travelling mostly through Asia before getting to Australia and then New Zealand, we have had to relocate 35 times!

We've stayed in hostels, houses, concrete apartment complexes without views, boats, tents, campervans, resorts, hotels, homestays and with family, strangers and friends. 

It's been an interesting year, starting in India, finishing in New Zealand, taking in Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia and Australia in between. We have met many amazing people, forged some strong friendships, faced many challenges and learned some incredible lessons.

So we thought we'd make the rest of this blog somewhat visual, showing the places we have stayed, and thanking you all for following and sharing in our journey. 

First port of call, Varkala Beach in India

Preparing for sun and beach on our balcony

  In search of a better deal, we find a new apartment

  And then, for a great price, a resort with a pool

  An excellent hostel in Alleppey, recommended by Lonely Planet

Followed by a night on the backwaters

  In Fort Cochin, the night Liverpool win the Carling Cup

Stopping over in Kuala Lumpur for a few nights

From one hotel to another - in Chiang Mai, Thailand

The Greenhill apartments in Chiangers - and lobby transport

Penang beach living in Batu Ferringgi, but it doesn't work out for us there

We head by coach to Kuala Lumpur for a spot of apartment-sitting in Bangsar

Renting nine floors up in Chan So Lin, Kuala Lumpur

In Subang Jaya to take care of cats

House sharing off the beaten track as we return to Chiang Mai

Birthday celebrations in a seventh-floor Chiang Mai apartment

A weekend in Singapore, where we got ripped off buying durian

A stopover in scorching Phuket on our way to Bali


 

A couple of nights by a main road and with noisy neighbours in Ubud

Renting a two-story home in Ubud for £10 a day

House-sitting and caring for a dog, rabbits and a chicken in the stunning Blue Mountains outside Sydney

 A townhouse in the Sydney suburbs

 Campervanning our way to Melbourne from Sydney

Magical sunset in Bonbeach, a stone's throw from where we stayed

  Camping by the beach in Mornington, near Melbourne 

Pretty cool, family-friendly hostel in Parnell, Auckland

  A family home in Auckland, caring for a dog and two cats

 

Sydney: No Blues In The Mountains

FREQUENTLY we are asked how, financially, we are able to keep travelling the way we do.

It's a perfectly valid question, of course. But the answer is we have to be prudent with our funds and also find creative ways of making our bucks stretch further.

One way has been house-sitting, which we have been doing for nearly three years and involves caring for someone's home (and, usually, pets) while they are away, giving the owners peace of mind that their home is and animals are safe in their absence. In return, we get free accommodation, which is one of our biggest costs. 

We are members on two websites - trustedhousesitters.com and housecarers.com - and apply when we see house-sitting jobs become available where we are travelling or about to travel. We pride ourselves on doing a good job and leaving homes cleaner than when we arrived.

We have come to meet some genuinely amazing, gracious and generous people this way and see and stay in fantastic places from Notting Hill to Brecon to Huddersfield to Kuala Lumpur. Our most recent assignment was in the Blue Mountains, about an hour outside of Sydney. We stayed there - in a beautiful family home - 11 days, looking after a dog, rabbits and a hen.

It's a spectacular part of Australia, hence the advertising promo for the region which reads, "Easy to get to. Impossible to forget". The Blue Mountains is so called because of the density of Eucalyptus trees which emit into the atmosphere droplets of oil which, when combined with dust particles and water vapour, form rays of light that are predominantly blue.

There is so much to see and do in the region that you could live here years and not scratch the surface, so we took the more popular options, starting with the famous Three Sisters near Katoomba, which was about 45 minutes drive from where we stayed in Warrimoo.

The Blue Mountains covers some one million hectares and became a World Heritage site 12 years ago. In it you will see trees that have been around from before mankind and cave systems that have survived 350 million years.

At Echo Point in Katoomba is a large visitor centre and observation area where you can get the best views of The Three Sisters - three rock formations, each over 900m tall, that stand out side by side with a massive open landscape as a backdrop.

Aboriginal folklore says the rocks were three sisters who were turned to stone.

There is a walkway that extends for miles, it seems, around the cliff edge. It is all perfectly safe, spotless and perfectly maintained.

We didn't have time to see everything on our first visit, so returned to take in the Scenic Railway - the world's steepest incline railway - a cableway that takes you back to the top and a Scenic Skyway, another cable ride. You can purchase a ticket for all three with discounted rates for families and if you arrive before 11am.

Zenchai was particularly fascinated by the history of gold mining in the area and the log cabins for workers that have been preserved and some of the other equipment that was used.

Katoomba itself is a quiant little town that has a giant screen cinema (six stories high) showing film of the region's environmental value, but we didn't have time to check this out.

Fresh and organic food-lovers should make a trip to the food co-op on Ha'Penny Lane, just off the main high street, though we also found other stores in the region offering a wide and good selection of fruits, vegetables and such items.

Another destination we visited was Wentworth Falls, which, like in Katoomba, has special views and dramatic trails.

Being in the mountains was cooler than in the city. It felt so much fresher and healthier. We took several local walks, on one occasion - foolishly as it turned out - trying to follow a 5km trail from the house we were sitting, but got lost as the sun started to go down.

Thankfully, we came across a family riding their horses and they kindly offered to drive us most of the way back. Only then did we realise how far we had come - with Zenchai on foot and me carrying Kobra - and that the shortcut back to our 'home' would have involved scrambling through a overgrown bush trail.

As serious snakes and poisonous insects live in the region, the local lady thought better of suggesting we try this and dropped off all of us - dog included - where we could make it back safely, which we did. But, as someone once wrote, "If everything always went to plan there would be no adventures"!

Pai: A Slice Of Relaxation

SEVEN hundred and sixty two stomach-churning bends later and I was in Pai, a hippy town three hours north of Chiang Mai.

I'd had my fill of sitting, scrunched up and sweating, at the back of a poorly-ventilated mini-van with a driver who, if I didn't know better, had been hired from Ecuador, where they all drive like they are late for dinner.

I should have known what was ahead when I saw the sick bags conveniently placed in front of every seat. But I survived. The discomfort was all worth it and for £3 I couldn't really complain. 

Pai is set amidst trees and sloping green, lush hills. From the balcony of my hotel room, I could see the beautiful landscape and hear the river flowing. This getaway was my birthday gift from Jamie and the kids - yes, time off. The children cried when I gathered my bags and dropped them off at the bus station. But Jamie had felt bad that almost every year my birthday passes as a non-event, so she wanted to do something special. 

Of course, I'd have liked to celebrate surrounded by my family. But being in Pai alone was not only different, but just what I needed.

I'd considered visiting one of the southern islands instead, but didn't fancy jumping on a jet again so soon after our recent escapade to Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and, briefly, Bangkok. 

Full-time parenting is intense and so, too, is regular airline travel. I wanted/needed some reprieve. Pai hit the spot. It's laidback, has plenty to do (hiking, rafting, yoga, swimming, sightseeing etc), there are dozens of vegetarian/organic restaurants to lounge around in, massages to be had, a nice public pool (60baht/£1.10 entrance) and many nearby attractions.

At night there are street vendors selling tasty food and their handcrafted goods. It feels a little commercial, though in a far less intrusive way than other tourist towns I have visited.

Prices are more than reasonable, especially as I was visiting during the off-season when it's not swarming with visitors. I'd certainly consider coming again to Pai, but with the car sick-prone family (if I can get them here without them suffering on the journey) for a longer stay. The cost of renting is far less than in Chiang Mai.

The place reminds me of a cross between Vilcabamba, where we stayed in southern Ecuador, and Capilla Del Monte, the town outside of Cordoba, Argentina where we'd spent Christmas in 2010.

I didn't have enough time in three days to explore all this place has to offer (which is why I would like to return). The options are seemingly endless - adventure rafting, rock climbing, kayaking, mountain biking, zip line adventure, piranha fishing, elephant trekking, hot springs, waterfalls, Pai canyon, temples, cooking courses, markets, Muay Thai boxing, kung fu, tai chi, permaculture courses etc.

I was here to chill out, recharge my batteries and get a feel for the place or else I would have indulged more. I rented a bike (only 70b/£1.20) and cycled six undulating kilometres out of town to the hot springs for a nice soak, taking in some nice views and dodging elephant dung as I went.

The roads aren't especially busy. Most visitors tend to travel by moped and at certain times of day it can become a little congested, though, by comparison, Chiang Mai feels huge and noisy. 

After three days away, Chiang Mai was my next destination. This time I decided to take the local bus (cheaper but slower and longer). There is only one a day - leaving at noon. I got to the bus station early - and waited...and waited.

It did come, eventually. The bus was crammed. I looked for a seat. There were only a few. As I got closer, I realised someone had been sick there. I chose to give it a miss.

So I was back to square one, the mini-van. I got on the next one, grabbing the last available seat, probably the worst spot possible - right beside the driver. My long legs were squeezed into a tight space, shins pressed against the dashboard and my rucksack on my lap. I couldn't move my aching legs as I'd interefere with the driver changing gear. I held this position for the best part of three hours, desperate to get to Chiang Mai, counting down the kilometres as we travelled.

Oh how relieved I was to see the bus terminal in Chiang Mai and Jamie and the kids parked up, waiting. But like most rough journeys home, you feel like you need another break. 

 

 

Asia: Five Days, Four Cities, Three Flights, Two Children, An Overpriced Durian and No Almond Butter!

WE were all relieved to get back to our apartment in Chiang Mai after four days away and time spent in Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and Bangkok.

Zenchai was going stir crazy on the aeroplane back to Thailand. We had a five-hour layover in Bangkok after our Air Asia flight had been cancelled. Tired, hungry and cooped up, Zenchai gave us a testing experience. Kobra slept most of the way. Aeroplanes just aren't designed for young children.

We stopped in Kuala Lumpur the first night as we couldn't get a connecting flight that day on to Singapore.

KL airport is a long way from the city centre. But we elected to use the train instead of taxi or bus or coach (as we'd done in the past). It's far cheaper, more efficient and comfortable. The trains are fast and slick, like in Germany. It made travelling a far more pleasant experience.

Kobra attracted a lot of attention from travellers, many of whom had their picture taken with her like she was some kind of celebrity. It bordered on the ridiculous. 

Zenchai looked on, unamused. He doesn't like the attention he gets in Asia - all the touching without first asking drives him crazy, often quite literally. He is also protective of his little sister.

Anyhow, by the time we arrived in KL city centre, checked-in to our hotel and dropped off our luggage, it was time to head out again. We had a family appointment - a play date for Zenchai with his second cousin at a playcentre in Bangsar Village shopping mall. He had been looking forward to it for ages. Z and his cousin ran around for hours. Money well spent. Zenchai also received a belated birthday gift - a Monster Truck book, which he loved. Afterwards we went for a Banana Leaf dinner after which it was time to head back to the hotel (by train) and then get up in the morning for our mid-day flight to Singapore.

Getting to KL airport was quicker than heading into the city when we arrived. On the train we met a nice English/French-Moroccan family with a young boy. Zenchai wasn't too sociable at first, but later warmed up a bit. 

At KL airport we checked in, grabbed a bite to eat at our favourite veggie Indian restaurant and then waited for our plane to depart. Zenchai amused himself by driving around luggage trollies.

I had been to Singapore before, but it was the first time for Jamie and the kids. As we were about to land, the captain made an interesting announcement, warning against bringing into the country knuckle-dusters, swords, guns and numb chucks! What sort of people go to Singapore, I wondered?

Then, of course, he reminded everyone about the stiff penalty for drug-smuggling - mandatory death sentence. They may as well have added raw almond butter to the list (more on that later).

I had an exam to sit in Singapore, but squeezing in any last-minute revision wasn't easy with a family in tow. Hours after arriving and nursing a deltoid injury, I headed to Reebok Crossfit Enduro for a workout. Some 90 power cleans later my shoulders somehow felt better. Jamie and the kids amused themselves at a park nearby and then in the gym while they waited. Zenchai got creative with all the equipment.

All hungry, we went in search of food. We didn't find eating in Singapore very easy. It's all Chinese, mostly fried, high on meat and starchy carbs and laced with msg. We settled for some veggie soup. Zenchai had a juice and some rice. Then it was off to bed - late - after a long walk in the still-ultra humid conditions.

The next morning I had to wake up Zenchai from a deep sleep. He had a training appointment at 9am at Crossfit. We caught a train and walked the rest of the way. He did some running around and lifting. On the way home, he felt proud - and didn't stop talking about it.

We were all hungry by the time we met up with Jamie and Kobra. But then we made our worst purchase of the weekend. Seeking out durian, I bought a 2kgs one, noticing a sign that said $10 per kilo. I asked "how much?" and the reply came "$14". But it turned out to be "$40" and not "14". By then I had already eaten it. That's a whopping £20 for a durian!! 

To make matters worse, Jamie didn't even like it. 

If it took Jamie and I hours to get over the shock, at least the kids weren't fussed. We decided to seek out a play centre. The hotel gave us directions - by train, bus and then on foot.

We found it - eventually. First, though, we stopped at an upscale restaurant called The Living Cafe that was right up Jamie's street - lots of delicious raw food desserts, but at near-jaw-dropping prices.

We each had a slice and then headed off into the heat on foot with only approximate directions. Of course, half a mile down the road Zenchai decided he needed the toilet (No. 2) and there was nowhere to go and no cab to be found to take us quickly where we wanted to go.

In spotless Singapore, we had to find some bushes and be as discreet as possible! Anyone with children knows these things happen. 

Onwards we marched, sweat dripping and Jamie and I taking turns carrying Kobra. We passed a doggie day care resort only for Zenchai to remark that Kobra needed to go there for some brushing up - because her hair "was messy like a dog's". 

Finally, we tracked down Fidgets Play Centre at Turf City, a huge shopping complex. Although it wasn't cheap, it was worth it. We hardly saw Zenchai, who in quick time was running around and playing with other kids. Kobra enjoyed it as well. Parents usually take a seat, grab a coffee, read a magazine and let the kids run wild. There are TV cameras to help you locate or observe your child. It was, for want of a better word, mayhem. But this was a Saturday afternoon.

The highlight for Zenchai was getting his face painted - as The Joker! The other children gathered round as Zenchai underwent his makeover. He said he really liked the woman painting him, because she reminded him of his grandmother in England.

"She spoke exactly like grandmere and was the same size," he said. 

But for someone not wanting attention, Zenchai sure attracted a lot of glances, particularly on the train on the way back to our hotel and a shopping mall at Clementi Station, where we stopped for dinner. As soon as he returned to the hotel, he had me wipe off the paint. 

The next morning for breakfast we set off to Little India, where Zenchai polished off a Masala Dosai. He'd missed them since leaving Kuala Lumpur. We found a place which offered quality food for excellent prices.

On the way back to our hotel on foot we passed a giant supermarket - the type that sold absolutely everything. If the durian was our purchasing disaster of the weekend, buying some clippers to cut Zenchai's hair was the greatest deal. For the equivalent of a few haircuts (£7.50), I came out of the store with a fine electrical appliance.

I left Jamie and the kids at a playground while I returned to the hotel to prepare for my test. I met up with them later and we headed off into the Arab quarter for some dinner. More disappointment: no falafel; moussaka that was plain and didn't have the advertised chick peas; ran out of pita bread; inflated prices etc. 

The night wasn't over. We went to bed, but at 2.30am while everyone was fast asleep, I tiptoed around the room to get dressed and went around the corner from our hotel to watch England's exit on penalties (again) from the Euro 2012 against Italy. 

It was around 5am when I returned to sleep. Singapore was still pretty busy. I took Zenchai out for some coconut water and flesh for breakfast and then strolled with the kids around the block while Jamie did the packing.

Little did I know I was wondering through a red light district. Prostitutes were all over the pavement and they swarmed over Kobra, pulling at her little cheeks and trying to take her away from me for a cuddle. Quickly, I got her out of there. Zenchai reacted angrily when they tried approaching him. Too much attention for the kids. It was time to head out of town.

Jamie had finished packing. We walked to the train station and then headed to the airport, let the children play for a while at the many excellent kids' facilities, got some food and checked in.

We flew to Bangkok airport, which was busy, and had time to kill. Although the clouds gathering outside looked stormy, I suggested we head into the sprawling city by train for some food. First we checked in and it was laughable to see the line of passengers at the next kiosk heading to Chennai, India - all with flat screen TVs!

It took about 40 minutes in and 40 minutes out by train. It was raining so hard that we couldn't really go anywhere. We purchased some food (but could find nowhere to eat it) and turned around. By then the trains were packed. That was our experience of Bangkok. 

By the time we reached the airport again it was nearly time to board. We scoffed down our food and headed through security, which is where the raw almond butter (mentioned earlier) comes in.

We'd bought a nice, big jar in Kuala Lumpur, because we can't find it in Chiang Mai. But security in Singapore deemed it a liquid and said we couldn't bring it through.

We'd carried it in our hand luggage from Kuala Lumpur, so thought nothing of doing the same from Singapore to Chiang Mai.

I could see the fury on Jamie's face when the security man, doing his job, of course, wouldn't back down.

"Don't mess with my almond butter!" told the story of my wife's painful expression. But he took it from us and, without waiting for us to go out of sight, dropped it into a bin. Ouch!!

"Do you realise how expensive that is?" said Jamie. 

That was the final straw to what was becoming an arduous journey. It was late when the plane touched down in Chiang Mai. Zenchai had shuffled in his seat like he'd dropped a jar of ants down his shorts. We were relieved to get off the plane. 

Our car was in the car park. We located it (eventually), paid 1,000 baht (£20) and headed home. 

As we drove, listening to Cat Stevens for about the 1,000th time, I remarked how great it was to live so close to the airport - about 10 minutes. Getting to the apartment was effortless, which is more than can be said for the rest of our adventure. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chiang Mai: Slower Pace Of Life

 

I USED to think the traffic lights in Las Vegas used to take an eternity to change. But I reckon Chiang Mai probably has the record for being the slowest.

Whenever you have an appointment in this town (especially during the busy hours) be sure to leave early or factor in some extra minutes for sitting at traffic lights.

On some days it can take me 30 minutes to complete a journey I'd usually make in 20 with green lights all the way.

 

The longest light change I have encountered is five minutes. But no-one seems to get overly frustrated. It just means the traffic piles up and you pull away from the lights with dozens of motorbikes around you instead of only a few.

Of course, there is a positive to having slow lights. You can be waiting in a long line of traffic and yet still make it through because the lights stay green so long. And it's useful, too, that you can turn left on a red light.

It's all just part of Chiang Mai life. While driving here seemed manic at first, now, after having cruised here a few months, I find it quite comfortable, having got used to the rhythm of the traffic. You have to keep your wits about you as bikes overtake on the inside and out. But, generally, I find that the traffic moves slower than, say, in London. Driving here seems therefore safer and far less aggressive. It's completely tame compared to somewhere like India.

The driving is selfish, though. No-one lets you out. You have to force your way on to the road. And, as a pedestrian crossing a main road, don't expect cars to slow down - even if you are carrying or walking with a young child. Pedestrian crossings don't seem to matter greatly where they are not at a set of traffic lights.

While almost anything goes in India, life on the road seems more orderly in Chiang Mai. You do see motorbikes driving the wrong way on freeways and main roads occasionally. Motorcyclists often ride without helmets and send text messages as they go. And the police don't seem bothered except on days when it's on their agenda. 

Chiang Mai may be Thailand's second largest city, but it feels relatively small to other places we have stayed, like Kuala Lumpur or Buenos Aires. Getting to know the city is quick and easy. And if you get lost it doesn't take long to work out which direction to go. 

The traffic bothered me when I first came here, mostly because we were here during the intense land-burning in March and the volume of cars on the road, particularly during rush-hour, added to the pollution, but now it's just an accepted part of the scenery and lifestyle. 

 

 

When I look at the surrounding mountainscape from our apartment window each day I find it astonishing to believe that on our first visit here the trees and hills were practically invisible (see the contrasting photos above).

For one reason or another, we haven't yet fully explored the beautiful countryside - and there is a lot to see and do. I often wonder what it is that lures people to Chiang Mai and has them waxing lyrical about the place. Easy access to nature from the city is an often-given reason.

We are slowly growing fonder of the city, but so many people we meet who have relocated here describe it in almost-heavenly terms. We shall see if we feel the same in the months to come. 

 

Chiang Mai: Back With A Difference

WE are back in Chiang Mai. It feels different. It's still hot, but the sweat doesn't roll off me here continually as it did in Kuala Lumpur.

We have found a place to call home for the next month or perhaps longer. We are still assessing. But it feels more peaceful in our new abode, set away from the often noisy streets.

We don't hear any traffic - only the sounds of insects and creatures in the forest or nearby dogs barking. It's nice to be surrounded by nature. But this comes at a cost. I'm frequently removing spiders and scorpions and various other bugs/insects. But that's life. We got used to that in Brazil, where the critters were tarantulas, bats, rats and monkeys.

Slowly, we are settling in to Thai life again, minus all the pollution that convinced us to leave several months ago. We have a car at our disposal, which allows us much more freedom to explore. Getting around in rickshaws and taxis is fun to begin with, but, in the heat, soon loses its appeal, especially when you have young children.

Chiang Mai isn't so large that getting lost presents a problem. If you have a sense of direction, you can easily get back on track. Kuala Lumpur would have been a nightmare to drive in. I'm finding my way around Chiang Mai quite quickly and easily, though you always have to have your wits about you with so many scooters around.

With our own wheels, we can check out the rich variety of organic produce they have in Chiang Mai. There is a big initiative here to provide pesticide-free goods and our diet has improved substantially. Each day (for about £1 per kilo) I buy Jamie a durian (she's addicted).

We eat in much more. Our garden has jackfruit, mango and banana trees and an organic garden. We have purified water from the tap. The children have space to stretch their legs and play and raise their voices heartily.

Jamie has slowly started her yoga again and I'm happy back at Crossfit Chiang Mai. Each week we try to have a Thai massage (it's painful, but great - and only £11 for two hours!)

We're working on finding outlets for Zenchai and have made contact with several groups in town who are educating their children in a way we'd like to have Zenchai learn about the world and life. We'll see how that goes.

So far, so good. 

 

Kuala Lumpur: Spiderman For The Day

THE only way to know if you are good at something is to be given the chance to try. So we do our best to expose our children to a variety of activities whenever possible or affordable.

The latest for Zenchai was rock-climbing, something that I, for years, have wanted to have a go at but, for various reasons, haven't. 

As we are staying in Subang Jaya, though, we paid a visit to the Camp 5 Climbing Gym in neighbouring Petaling Jaya, where Zenchai could pretend to be Spiderman for the day. 

It's an impressive set-up to say the least - all inside a massive shopping centre on the fifth floor. It's the biggest facility of its kind in Asia with walls of varying difficulty and heights.

Children under the age of seven usually have to climb alongside a parent (or adult) - and I was prepared to have a go - but when we arrived the staff said Zenchai was fine to go by himself (although he did have an older cousin for company), so we let him.

There are even some tiny climbs for very small children (as young as two), so this really is a place for the family. 

We opted for the "try climbing" package - the ideal way to start - which costs R48 (about £9) and lasts an hour. That's ample time for a youngster on their first attempt. 

Zenchai was first kitted out in climbing shoes and a safety harness and then taken to some small walls for basic instruction. 

Then he had a crack at some of the more adventurous and challenging climbs and, to begin with, raced his way up before suddenly realising how high he was and, on the verge of tears when facing his fears, begging to come down.

But his confidence wasn't entirely dented. I could see he wanted to test his own limits at his speed. He jumped straight back in the saddle, so to speak. The staff were good and patient. Zenchai bounded up the next wall, going a bit further, and back down again.  

Although he lost concentration a few times (looking at other kids) and panicked a little when his feet couldn't find a ledge to push off of, Zenchai did remarkably well, much better than I had anticipated he would. And it was all very safe. 

In fact, when he'd finished his final climb, on a section where the rope tugs you up as you climb and you can almost float back down to the ground when you are finished, Zenchai was disappointed to leave.

"I love it," he said. "I didn't think I'd like it, but I really did. I want to come again."

We'll try to make that happen - if not in Kuala Lumpur, then in another location we decide to visit. 

Camp 5 is inside the One Utama Shopping Centre. Tel: 03 7726 0420. It is open from 2-11pm on weekdays and 10am-8pm on weekends. There is also a cafe in the climbing area serving fairly healthy (and vegetarian) food - at least when compared to the rest of the shopping centre. One Utama has just about everything you can think of from those who want to leave their kids and wonder off. There are batting cages for baseball enthusiasts, a diving centre in the basement, karaoke bar, bowling alley and hundreds of shops and eating places. It seems like it never ends. 

 

 

 

 

World Travel: Is Anywhere Cheap Anymore?

THE question is: is there anywhere in the world that is really 'cheap' to live anymore? And, perhaps more importantly, would you want to live there if there is?

People often refer to Asia as very affordable and there are pockets of places where your money goes really far.

In southern India, for instance, we lived quite cheaply. Our hotel apartment (above) was roughly £5 per day and this was in an upscale resort. That's because in India you can bargain for almost everything.

But elsewhere we haven't found the costs to be equally inexpensive. And I think it's important, too, to make the distinction between travelling solo and as a family. If I were travelling by myself, living in hostels and eating out only for one and at McDonalds (which I wouldn't go near except to use the toilets) or the MSG-laden food hawkers, my daily costs would be reduced substantially. But multiply everything by four if you have a family like mine. You can't really stay in dorms when you have children. 

We are now in Kuala Lumpur, which, when compared to London, is relatively cheap, but not when pitted against other Asian cities we have been to (with the exception of Singapore).

We pay £34 a day for a one-bedroom serviced apartment with a makeshift kitchen. In the developed western world that is a great deal. But in Thailand (Chiang Mai) we were paying about £16 per night. You could find even cheaper deals in CM and if you were by yourself or a smaller family unit - a studio apartment rents for about £10 per night. 

Kuala Lumpur, at least, offers an excellent transport system. Almost each day I commute by train and bus for 90 minutes (each way) to attend my Crossfit class in Petaling Jaya. My transport costs are a mere £2!

We're not convinced either whether eating in saves money when you can, for instance, go to an Indian restaurant for masala dosai and feed the family well for £2.50. 

We don't really go to upscale restaurants. The most expensive it gets for us is when we search out organic restaurants, but even then, when compared to the UK, the prices are far from crazy. The most we've paid for a family meal in KL is £12. 

Back in the UK, we spent on average £113 per week on food when we stayed in Brecon (for Christmas) and £139 whilst in Huddersfield, where we ate in most of the time. Compare that with the average of £114 we spent per week mostly eating out in India. 

So keeping costs down really depends where you are. For us, eating in in England was only marginally more expensive than eating out in India, albeit in a fairly touristy part of India. 

In Thailand the street food is cheap, but (unfortunately) laced with MSG and sugar, so we ended up eating in better restaurants and for more. We ate out most of the time, but also bought lots of fruit and coconuts. You'd be surprised how the costs add up. On average we'd spend about £120 per week on food in Thailand. But Malaysia has been off the chart. 

Our shopping bill at supermarkets in KL can be hefty. As an alternative, I've tried local markets, like Pudu, where you can buy all sorts of vegetables (though the fruit selection is disappointing). I filled a shopping bag for about £8 (mostly veg) and a similar shop in England would have set me back at least £20. 

But supermarkets offer organic produce, which is important to us. Most of the fruits and vegetables in the outdoor markets in KL appear to have been imported from countries like China, where they spray crops heavily.

Although I can get a kilo of fresh lychee for £2 and buy T-shirts for £2, too, a cup of camomile tea at Starbucks in a good neighbourhood will set you back £1.50. On average we have spent over £150 per week in KL. 

Prices for the same product can vary also. For instance, fresh coconuts can go for anything from between 75p to £1.50. It's not outrageous, but more expensive than we paid in Thailand and Brazil (although coconuts in Thailand are far superior in taste).

A whole 1kg durian costs around £2 in KL, a 5.5litre water bottle just over £1 and taxis are good value (though be sure to flag down the red or yellow ones and not the blue taxis, which are exectutive. Tip: make sure the meter is running). 

The cost of going out in KL is hit and miss. Some attractions, like the KLCC play park, are free. Others, like Aquaria, cost me £16 for Zenchai and I. In London, at the Aquarium, it's nearly double and in Florida I found attractions for kids to be really pricey. 

We're heading back to Chiang Mai in Thailand next month, though, because renting an apartment there is cheaper and easier than in Kuala Lumpur. We tried really hard, but couldn't find a way to stay in KL affordably. 

As I wrote in a previous blog, renting in KL is made difficult - almost impossible - for those wishing to stay less than 12 months. 

We couldn't find any reasonable houses or condos, fully furnished and in a safe, clean area near a train station (otherwise you really need a car) for less than £400 per month. Realistically, we were looking at shelling out at least £500. But the majority of apartments go for £500 per month upwards and you can get two/three bedroom places for that amount. In nice areas most people are paying closer to £800-£1,000. 

In Thailand we might end up spending around £300-£400 for lodging, but we'd get even more for our money - greater space and perhaps the use of a pool and gym.

But the downside in Chiang Mai is that there is no metro system - getting around town you have to rely on taxis and rickshaws or hire a moped, which isn't what I want to do with young children (a moped would cost about £300 per month). The traffic is thick and the roads not all built for walking down. We spent about £70 on transport during the month we lived in Chiang Mai. Car rentals are about £400 per month. 

There are always the southern islands of Thailand to visit. But we hear from friends based there that costs are inflated also - mostly because of the rise of tourists willing to pay big bucks and the owners holding out until the off-season.

Of course, there are places to go that won't cost much - even for families, but there's a reason for that: either it's incredibly remote or there's something wrong with it, like ultra polluted or crime-infested. Not everyone wants to take their family to a place like that. 

It's interesting, really, because both Jamie and I have in recent weeks reflected more on our time last year in Brazil, which on the whole is a dearer place to live than in most of Asia. But we found in Piracanga, Bahia, an eco-village by the ocean where it was impossible to be sucked in by consumerism and our outgoings were generally low, that the quality of life (sunshine, beach, river, wholefood diet, living more off the land) was much higher. 

We're not saying we want to return to Brazil or, specifically Piracanga, but it's an example of how getting the balance right can be tough and it often depends on the family's needs and wants. We don't want to be somewhere too remote or basic or, for that matter, in the thick of a bustling city. 

We have been travelling now for over two years and, in terms of affordability and taking into account inflation, the cheapest countries we have visited look something like this (cheapest first): 1. Ecuador; 2. India; 3. Thailand; 4. Brazil; 5. Malaysia; 6. Croatia; 7. Argentina; 8. USA;  9. Uruguay; 10. Western Europe.

 

Kuala Lumpur: Breakfast Tales

WE aren't the kind of family that eats the usual eggs, bacon, sausage and toast breakfast. Nor do either of my children know what Cocoa Krispies, Frosted Flakes or even Weetabix are.

We seem to fall into a routine breakfast that is location-dependant. In Croatia it was heaping large amounts of watermelon. In Argentina we had fruit salads with tahini-honey dressing and bee pollen.

Brazil brought us chia seed/banana pancakes at first before we evolved to mouth-watering chocolate pudding with homemade granola. In India we all loved a good masala dosai and in England Zenchai always started his day with his grandmere's homemade bread followed by a (vegan) protein shake (we use the Sunwarrior brand). 

Since being in Kuala Lumpur our accomodation has been diverse, sometimes having a kitchen and sometimes not. When we didn't have a kitchen we ate masala dosai or fruits, then when we had a well-appointed kitchen, I made granola and smoothies (almost every store-bought variety of cereal is sugar-coated or well overpriced). Now we have a kitchen, but it is pretty lame. 

When we lived back London I used to make a scrummy, nutritious chia seed pudding. Zenchai used to lap it up. So I pulled out all the stops and created a travelling rendiditon of it. Fortunately, the stores here have a huge variety of health foods, so it was pretty easy.

However, I haven't used chia seeds even though they sell them here. Instead, I use Thai sweet basil seeds (we have some leftover from our last trip here), which react the same as chia.

Kuala Lumpur Breakfast of Champions:

2-4 TBS Thai sweet basil seeds or chia seeds

water or nut milk (enough to cover the seeds)

1/4 - 1/2 C coconut milk (depending on how coconutty you like it)

splash vanilla essence

dribble maple syrup or honey (optional)

one chopped banana

2-4 dates

chopped brazil nuts

dried mulberries

goji berries

Here is the skinny:

Pour the water or nut milk over the seeds, add the vanilla and maple syrup. Stir until well combined. Then add the coconut milk, stir well and place in fridge for 5-10 minutes. While the seed mixture is in fridge you can chop the banana, brazil nuts and dates. When the fridge time is up, add the remaining goodies. Spoon into mouth. Smile, it tastes naughty but it is packed with nutrition.