Abrams Family World Travel

World Travel: Our Favourites - Three Years On

AT the end of our first year of travel, we posted a blog about our favourite spots - places, restaurants, beaches, parks and hotels, locations we’ve travelled to (including before our journey began) and have no trouble recommending. Now that over three years have passed since we started our adventure, we thought it would be a good time for an update.

Places

1. Vancouver, Canada: This city on North America's west coast offers a bit of everything. It ticked a lot of boxes for us. Nearby there's snow and beach for starters. There's an excellent public transport system, a fantastic range of organic/healthy produce, lots to do and see socially, the people are friendly, there's a large alternative schooling community, it's relatively safe and, for Canada, the weather is on the mild side. The only downside was the cost of property and renting. Otherwise, we really loved it - a lot!

2. Napier, New Zealand: Known as the 'Art Deco Capital of the World', this town on the north island is incredibly pretty. There's ocean, stunning surrounding mountains, hiking trails, wonderful rivers, clean parks, loads to do and see, little, if any, traffic, clean air and not lacking anything that we'd want in a big city.

3. Kukljica, Croatia: This little village on the island of Ugljan, across the water by ferry from Zadar, is a magical place for us. It's where I spent much of my childhood during the hot summer months. The Adriatic Sea is gorgeously salty and blue. The village has charm and lots of beautiful, though mostly rocky, bathing spots. It's wonderful during the hot season, but can be harshly cold in the winter.

4. Edinburgh, Scotland: Nice for walking, plenty to see, close to the coast, variety of restaurants, compact.

5. Lisbon, Portugal: Amazing architecture, lovely climate, great squares, economical and efficient public transport.

 

Beaches

1. Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica: Long stretches of sand without a person in sight or litter, stunning sunsets and perfect sea temperatures

2. Whale’s Tail, Costa Rica: Set in a National Park, with impressive caves you can walk through, great sand and warm seas

3. Los Frailes, Ecuador: Clear water, secluded, perfect waves, clean sand, sea temperature consistently good. All it’s missing is some shelter from the scorching sun and somewhere for refreshments (make sure you bring your own!)

4. Englishman’s Bay, Tobago: Long, intimate stretch of beautiful sandy beach with palm trees and clear green water, just where you’d imagine Robinson Crusoe making his base. There’s a shop and café on site also (not built by Crusoe, by the way).

5. Piracanga, Bahia, Brazil: We stayed here for more than 10 months in 2011. We lived practically on the doorstep of miles of vacant sandy beach. The ocean here, while often quite strong, was nearly always the perfect temperature and the sand ideal although we did have to lookout for troublesome little flees. www.piracanga.com

 

Restaurants

1. Napfenyes Etterem, Budapest: So good we ate there every day on our short stay, sometimes twice in a day. Great menu, nice staff. Almost too many delightful dishes, making our choice so much tougher (hence the reason we kept coming back) Rózsa u 39, District VII, Budapest 1077 +36-1-3135555. http://www.napfenyesetterem.hu/

2. Pure Food & Wine, Manhattan, New York: Somewhat pricey, but worth it, if only for the scrumptious desserts. Formal vegan restaurant with raw options. Jamie can't wait to get back there. www.oneluckyduck.com 54 Irving Place New York, NY 10003-2314 Tel: (212) 477-1010

3. Terra, Lisbon, Portugal: Fabulous buffet spread when we visited over seven years ago. Food is fresh and the ginger juice, though laced with sugar, so refreshing. www.restauranteterra.pt Príncipe Real, Rua da Palmeira 15, 1200-311 LISBOA, Portugal Tel: 213 421 407

4. Tiestos, Cuenca, Ecuador: Delicious food delivered in a large tagine (tiesto). The chef can make almost whatever you like and uses his ingredients so perfectly. A hit every time. Juan Jaramillo 7-34, City Centre, Cuenca, Ecuador

5. Buenos Aires Verde, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Outstanding organic vegetarian nosh, always beautifully presented, fresh and nutritious. Plenty of vegan and raw vegan options. Lovely setting, relaxed atmosphere and genuine staff. There is a menu in English. Try the salads, pizza, deserts and smoothies. Reasonably priced as well, especially when compared to most organic raw food/vegetarian restaurants. Gorriti 5657, Buenos Aires. http://www.bsasverde.com/index_en.html. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-0.30am.

 

Parks

1. KL City Park, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: Bang on the doorstep of the Petronas Towers and an enormous shopping centre is a large fountain which backs on to a great park. Whether it's jogging, walking, kids play or splashing in water, this park has it all. It's where I infamously smashed up my shins doing box jumps on marble columns (I slipped!) We spent countless hours there with our kids in the second-to-none children's play area. 

2. El Retiro, Madrid, Spain: Outstanding and in the city centre (near Retiro subway). Has many jogging paths and exercise areas as well as a lake with boats, cycle routes and quieter, shaded areas to sit.

3. Munich Olympic Park, Germany: By the former Olympic stadium, these manicured grounds near the centre of the city were used for the 1972 Games. The park has a lake and river and is perfect for running, cycling, rollerblading or just strolling.

4. Central Park, New York: At the tip of Manhattan, the park has something for everyone in any season, Great for walking, running, playing sports, rollerblading or just to pass some time.

5. Bosques de Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina: We stayed just a few blocks from this park. I went running there a lot (it can get busy) and Zenchai and I hired bicycles. We also went there for days out in the sun, just to play about on the grass. It's a huge park with beautiful gardens and monuments as well as a lake in the middle where you can rent paddleboats to calmly take in the scenery and relax. 

 

Sites/Experiences

1. Iguazu Falls, Argentina: Truly breathtaking, immense natural wonder on the Brazilian and Argentine border. Well worth the ridiculously long bus journey from Buenos Aires and wait for the lashing rain to subside.

2. Milford Sounds, New Zealand: Spectacular scenery on the South Island, visions I can't imagine you'd find anywhere else all in one place - mountains, lakes, hills...every corner turned delivered something special.

3. Blue Mountains, Sydney, Australia: Down Under's answer to the Grand Canyon. Impressive views, walks and cable rides.

4. El Zapato/Cajon Dam, Capilla Del Monte, Argentina: This site took us by surprise. We were on a walk, looking for the dam and stumbled upon an immense mountainscape that looked like something from 'The Land Of The Giants'.

5. Superclassico Football - River Plate v Boca Juniors: A truly memorable occasion for any footy fan - the biggest rivalry in the Argentine league. Whether it's at the River Plate Stadium, where the 1978 World Cup final took place, or Boca's smaller, but more cauldron-like ground, this is an unmissable fixture, more so for the bristling atmosphere than the football. 

 

Hotels/Hostals

1. Villa de las Aves, Uvita, Costa Rica: Fabulous two-floor house-type buildings with private jacuzzi, kitchens and a communal pool set in grounds surrounded by trees, animals and birds. With delightful owners, too - from Australia and UK, this is a spectacular place within reach of Costa Rica's great beaches. http://www.villasdelasaves.com/

2. Bahia Principe Tulum, Playa del Carmen, Mexico: All-inclusive resort hotel close to crystal clear sea water and private white sandy beaches.

3. Mandala, Puerto Lopez, Ecuador: Immaculately decorated – has so much to offer, like a library, games room, restaurant, gardens and music room. http://www.hosteriamandala.info/

4. Hip Hotel, Maastricht, Holland: Super sleek, funky one-time apartments converted into themed hotel rooms at affordable prices. There’s secure parking also, but at a fee. http://www.st-martenslane.com/

5. Intercontinental, Chicago airport: Comfortable, tasteful and sheek. 5300 North River Road, Rosemont. Tel: (847) 544-5300

 

Children's Activities

1. Parkour, Vancouver: Of all the activities we have introduced Zenchai to, this was the best. He couldn't get enough. What kid wouldn't want to run, tumble, climb, crash, jump and generally have heaps of fun exploring movement? http://www.originsparkour.com/

2. Wall Climbing, Kuala Lumpur: We took Zenchai along to the largest indoor climbing facility in Asia - and it is huge. It's all supervised and, while a little daunting, children get the chance to scale some enormous walls and grow in confidence. 

3. River Play, Piracanga, Brazil: During our stint at an eco village, we lived close to a river, which was perfect for children. Zenchai learned both to kayak and swim here in addition to spending countless hours just playing.

4. Children's Museum, Buenos Aires: Although the cost of entry wasn't low, it was worth it. Children got to role play and dress up to their heart's content. Zenchai used to beg me to take him here. 

5. Waterfall, Chiang Mai, Thailand: This northern Thai city is surrounded by waterfalls of various sizes. We found one on a Sunday afternoon and the kids loved it so much we couldn't tear them away. 

New Zealand: 19 Days On The Road With Two Children

IT didn't exactly start perfectly, with Zenchai throwing a tizzy in a car park in Christchurch (a case of being too hungry). But it only could get better from there. And, thankfully, it did.

Some 3,404km and nearly three weeks later, we'd explored New Zealand's stunning South Island, crossed the Cook Strait back to the North Island, and driven up to Auckland.

The landscape in NZ is overwhelmingly spectacular. Each day, when I thought it couldn't get any better, it did. Often we'd see ice-capped mountains, rolling green hills, blue lakes - all in the same location!

The roads, especially on the South Island, were practically empty. No traffic jams. There were occasional, though brief, roadworks. But it was a pleasure getting around.

However, we tried not to be on the road too long each day (between two and three hours) to save our children from boredom and confinement. Often we'd time the driving for when Kobra would take her nap. 

We did most of our camping in DOC (Department of Conservation) campsites. We received a booklet when we hired our Rocket rental vehicle and each night aimed for a DOC site near where we aimed to stop.

The sites are all relatively cheap (around NZ$15 per night) and in some extraordinary locations. The entry fee goes towards maintenance of the sites. Facilities are usually quite basic. We did most of our bathing in chilly but stunning, picture-postcard lakes or rivers. For shaving, I would try to find a public toilet en route or use the reflection of the car windows as my mirror. 

We were mostly fortunate with the weather. It was summer time after all. We hardly saw rain the first week and there were just a few days when we were washed out. 

The rain would also make it harder for sleeping. Not only did it sound loud pounding on the roof, but our canopy at the back of the vehicle would, in the case of a heavy downpour, leak a little. We just turned ourselves around, so our heads were in the middle of the vehicle rather than the back.

But, generally, we all slept reasonably well. We were tightly packed, but that was great on the few chilly nights when the skies were clear. 

In campsites there would often be children for ours to play with. We could see Zenchai's confidence growing in approaching other youngsters. He had a ball. So did Kobra. One day when we stayed by the amazing Lake Hawea, north of Queenstown, Zenchai just walked over to some children and the next thing we knew he was on a speedboat trip. He just took off on the lake. We laughed about how our son was off with some strangers we'd never met. But we felt sure he was safe and loving it. I heard him brag to one other child as he boarded the boat, "I've been on a ship called the Sea Shepherd. It's a real pirate ship, you know?" 

However, Kobra fell asleep while Zenchai was out on the water and, because we needed to get going, Jamie and I started looking at each other, thinking 'How long is he going to be out there?' 

In the end, I had to kayak to the boat (using a kayak our camping neighbours had kindly offered to us) to get Zenchai back. Like those neighbours, the people we met along our trip were always friendly. I found customer service in NZ to be outstanding, too. The Kiwis are a welcoming bunch. 

Starting in Christchurch, we headed south to Dunedin, where we visited this steepest street in the world and observed the endangered yellow-eyed penguins and seals at a special conservation.

From there we made our way across land, via Gore towards Te Anau, where there is a fabulous lake and we stayed the night. The following day we headed north to the unforgettably stunning Milford Sound in Fiordland, taking in the mountains, valleys and breathtaking scenery. 

There is just one road there, Milford Sound being the only fiord accessible by land. Make sure you fill your vehicle with petrol before you head there as there are no gas stations. 

We headed back towards Te Anau, camping by a river for the night at Deer Flat. The next day we ventured towards Queenstown, which was more spectacular than I ever imagined.

Although it's full of young people on adrenaline rushes (lots of adventure-type activities going on here) and a ski town in the winter, Queenstown is beautiful. The water, almost turquoise in parts, reminded me of Europe's fantastic Adriatic Sea. 

Queenstown can be expensive, so we headed out for our next stop at another special DOC campsite at Moke Lake.

The next day, after passing through sparkling Wanaka, we stayed at Kidds Bush at Hawea Conservation Park, again by the lake. It was also breathtaking.

We didn't feel disappointed until the next day, when we camped out at Paringa Lake and got ambushed by sand flies. We had been warned. But it didn't help. It was so severe they came through into the car during the night along with mosquitoes. We slept mostly with covers over our faces and then Jamie and I made an executive decision first thing in the morning - to sling everything in the back of the car and get out as fast as we could! 

On the next stage of our journey we passed through the gold-mining town of Ross, which is apparently sitting on NZ$700 million of the precious metal. Zenchai got his own mining pan and gave it a go in the nearby river, excitedly hoping he'd get rich. No such luck. 

By the time we reached Hokitika further up the west coast, rain was on its way. For the second night running (but for different reasons) our sleep was broken. But the kids didn't seem to be affected much. With rain lashing down, we took to the roads and, because we couldn't see a great deal, just kept driving, getting as far as Motueka.

There, we found a decent campsite, full of children for Zenchai and Kobra to play with. The next day we headed to Golden Bay in the impressive Abel Tasman National Park, where we had the beach to ourselves. The sun was out, but the wind fresh. Zenchai and I did some sprint training and then built sandcastles.

We moved on to Kaiteriteri, staying in the Bethany Park campsite where they offered a family deal for only NZ$20. Zenchai made friends again. He was playing football in the dark. The next morning, with the sun shining gloriously, we headed for the beach before hitting the roads, passing through Nelson as we proceeded north. 

Hours of driving took us to Rarangi, where we stopped at the remote Whites Bay. It took some finding, going up lots of winding roads. That night, before dinner, firemen came to our site to warn us of a possible Tsunami from the earthquake in the Soloman Islands. The beach was closed. But nothing happened. 

It wasn't far from there to catch the ferry across the Strait from Picton, where there is an excellent kids playground. Luckily for us the Strait was calm (ish). It was a glorious day. By 4.30pm we were in Wellington again. We didn't stop, instead heading onwards Otaki, where we camped at Otaki Forks, a gorgeous spot in the Tararua Forest Park. We had the place to ourselves and a glorious river to bathe in the next morning - though it was the coldest plunge pool I'd ever experienced!

We did a spot of shopping in Otaki at outlet malls, especially for Icebreaker clothing as we equipped ourselves for our next stop, Vancouver. Icebreaker clothing is expensive (it supposedly doesn't smell from prolonged use), but there were some great deals.

Our journey took us back to Napier, where we stayed with friends for three nights, having intended to be there only two. We just couldn't bring ourselves to leave and I got to revisit CrossFit Napier - three times!!

From Napier it was a two-hour drive to Taupo, where we stopped for lunch, and then another 90 minutes to Tauranga, where we ended up at a caravan park not typical of the places we had frequented on the rest of our journey. It was cheap (NZ$20), but the notice in the kitchen warning about theft in the area didn't exactly make us feel at home.

The nearer to Auckland we went, the more traffic we encountered. Tauranga, for instance, was surprisingly congested. We ended up racing the clock a little to reach our hostel in Auckland, buy food for dinner and our flight out of New Zealand the next day and then take our rental Rocket to a car wash before dropping it off by 4pm.

We made it without a hitch. The staff at Spaceship (Rocket) were friendly as ever. They didn't baulk at the broken tent either. It was a (standard) NZ$25 cab fare back to the hostel as we entered our final 24 hours in New Zealand. 

In terms of travel highlights since we departed the UK over three years ago, New Zealand is right up there at the top. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

World Travel: 200 Not Out

SO after nearly two-and-a-half years travelling as a family - about 850 days - we have reached our 200th blog.

We've been to many countries and places and often people want to know which ones stand out the most.

I frequently ask Jamie which locations she either misses most or would like to re-visit. Her list is much shorter than mine. 

While we haven't yet found the 'perfect' location and don't even believe such a place exists, here are my top 5 hot spots, in no particular order. 

 

KUKLJICA

A picture-perfect village on the island of Ugljan off the coast of Zadar in Croatia. It holds special memories for us. We lived there for two months in the summer of 2010. We could never get enough of the deep blue Adriatic Sea and local, fresh food. We found the locals so friendly and welcoming. The weather was perfect, too. Jamie doesn't even like me mentioning the place, because she yearns to be there. We shall return one day with Kobra, part of whose named was derived from the village and country.

 

BAHIA

WE lived in Piracanga, an eco village south of Itacare, Brazil, for nine months in 2011. Kobra was born there. That makes the place unique in our memories. Our life there was basic. There were no shops. We made our entertainment by visiting the ocean and river and using what was natural around us. We played on the long, deserted sandy beaches. Sharing a home with us were spiders, bats, a rat and, occasionally to steal our fruit, monkeys. Jamie found our existence there too limiting after a long period. But I miss many aspects of the lifestyle, especially just living in a pair of shorts (nothing else required). Zenchai still talks fondly of the place, too, because he made friends there.

 

BRECON

OUR Christmas of 2011 was spent in the Welsh valleys. We did a stint of house-sitting and looking after cats and ducks in a beautiful cottage. It was mostly cold and wet, but the house was so cosy and the scenery spectacular. We liked the people very much. Both Jamie and I felt a strong affinity for the region. 

 

BUENOS AIRES

THE bustling capital of Argentina is a place I'd like to go back to more than to stay or settle. It has so much going for it - loads of places to visit; lots to do; cheap and efficient transport; lots of restaurants; nice people. I got to know it well during the near-three months we lived there in late-2010/early-2011.

It ranked as one of Zenchai's favourite spots, too, because he loved seeing all the classic old cars scattered on the streets. 

 

VARKALA BEACH

ALTHOUGH we were only in India a few months ago (Jan 2012), I look back affectionately on our time there. The weather was perfect and the people so glowing, inquisitive and almost overwhelmingly friendly and helpful. Being by the beach offered our kids a great playground every day. We felt very safe there. Although it was more touristy than we like and India in general is overpopulated, noisy and polluted, Varkala Beach has a great charm about it. Living and being there is so easy. 

 

Piracanga: A Tale Of Baby-naming

My mummy told me that I was conceived on the shores of magical water: the Adriatic Sea, on a small island of Croatia in a tiny village called Kukljica where my daddy used to visit to spend his childhood summers.

She and my father both believe a name is like a mantra. It should have a nice vibration, sound and meaning. But my mother couldn't think of a girl's name that fulfilled this criteria and she was convinced all along that I was a girl. You can imagine the distress (as my arrival neared) that she felt.

However, one afternoon while sitting on the edge of the Piracanga ocean watching and listening to the crash and roar of the waters she felt inspired.

My mum wanted a name that would honour my place of conception and birth. She started playing with the letters of Kukljica, Croatia and Brazil. In her mind, she scattered them and reorganised them, trying to create a suitable name.

Then the lightbulb went on. She took the 'K' from Kukljica, the 'O' for the sound in Croatia and the 'BRA' from Brazil and combined them to make Kobra.

She looked up from her place in the sand and said to my daddy, "I've got it! Kobra. What do you think?"

My daddy liked it. I even gave a kick of approval from the womb.

My parents still weren't completely convinced I should be Kobra, but then as all things happen for a reason and guide us all to a higher sense of knowing, they began seeing signs.

The first confirmation was when a book arrived for my mummy all about freebirth. What was interesting was that all of the artwork in the book was surrounded by drawings of snakes. And at the very front was the spiritual explanation of the snake as a totem.

In the spiritual world the snake represents the sloughing off of the old and rebirth or transmutation to the new. The snake also has a magnetic resonance with Mother Earth and snake spirit guides teach ways to peer into the hearts of others and find ways to assist them on their spiritual paths. I think my mummy and daddy liked that.

Then the following day my big brother and mummy went on a nature walk in the forest, where they spotted their first Brazilian snake. 

By this time they were feeling more confident with the name Kobra. 

However, more "signs" were shown. In the house where I was to be born there were snakes painted on two different walls - they hadn't noticed these before. 

Finally, one day my mother was contemplating me and connecting with me in the womb. She peered out into the garden to see a snake slithering across the path. 

That was the final straw. I would be Kobra.

 

World Travel: Lessons Learned from Our First Year

We most definitely live and learn travelling the way we do. Mistakes are inevitable, but also invaluable.

That's why every 'bad' experience we've had has effectively been a blessing. It also doesn't harm to learn from what others have been through. Therefore, we thought we'd share with you what information we think has been priceless or helpful from our first 12 months travelling - advice that would most certainly have shortened our learning curve had we known in advance. 

 

Travelling with the sun

Both Claude and I relish the sunshine. So when we mapped out our itinerary to London, we knew that we wanted to follow the sun and be in places during their summers. However, what we did not consider was how our pursuit of warmth would also empty our pockets more quickly.

While it has been fantastic enjoying over a year of summer-like conditions, it has also meant travelling to places during peak season. Had we thought more deeply about travelling with the sun, we could have timed our arrivals into certain cities/areas just before or after the high season.

Something else that did not cross our minds was how travelling with the sun would effect Zenchai's socialisation with other children. By continuously landing in places during summer time, schools have almost always been closed.

When in small villages, like Kukljica in Croatia, this was not so much a problem as potential playmates by the sea were abundant. But in large cities like Buenos Aires, where children weren't roaming freely, this meant lonely playtimes for Zenchai.

Have at least the first night's stay booked

When you arrive in a new location try to have the first night's accommodation pre-booked. Sometimes there's a temptation to take a chance and see what you can find by wondering around - and that's understandable if you're not sure you want to stay. But we've found this rather stressful, especially if you discover the city or town you intend to stay in is fully booked. It's a real pain, particularly if you have children, to go from one hotel/hostel to another, hoping something is available. Going through Europe by car last summer we found ourselves on a few occasions - tired from a long day of driving - cruising down dimly-lit streets in the middle of the night and knocking on doors to find accommodation. Now we check online with tripadvisor and hostelworld and always read reviews, too. It narrows the choice and you discover feedback on whether a place is noisy, a party hostel, has a kitchen, internet etc. 

Challenge of staying with people

On both Claude's and my top ten memories of 2010 was meeting and staying with friends and family. Those moments of union with loved ones have definitely left a huge impression on our hearts.

However, at times those stays didn't always go without a hitch in the sense that we both have felt uncomfortable in instances where our destiny was out of our control. Being reliant on transport, food or basic necessities has at times made us feel powerless, which can create friction for us.

We have learned that we are far more comfortable in other people's spaces if we are able to cater to our basic familial needs and not having to completely pass the buck to those who host us.

Clothing, toys, books etc

With each leg of our trip we have realised our tendency to over-pack, especially clothing, toys for Zenchai and books. This overindulgence created many anxious moments while we waited in queues at the airport to check our luggage.

Would our bags be overweight - again? This is something we are continually refining and with the impending arrival of our newest family member it is also something we need to perfect sooner rather than later.

Suitcases vs Rucksacks

At the moment we are travelling with two suitcases. My monster pink case and Claude's more sensibly-sized case. However, we have encountered many situations where having a rucksack each would have made for smoother travel.

Manage your money smartly

Travellers cheques used to be the only way to carry large amounts of currency when travelling. Not anymore. In Ecuador, travellers cheques were practically useless. Claude had to go from one bank to another to find someone willing to cash them. We haven't used them since. We opted for the FairFX card. It's simple to top up and all you require is an ATM machine to get your cash. FairFX offer you the option of having your money in pounds, dollars or Euros but don't charge for currency conversions or withdrawals (however, banks in certain countries, like Argentina and Uruguay, do impose a fee per transaction - roughly £3, which adds up). It's also worth noting - and checking - before travelling which credit cards certain countries prefer. For instance, Visa is the favoured card in Argentina. And in some countries, like Ecuador, credit card transactions are minimal, so you need access to cash. Do your homework.

Buy fruit and veg locally 

We do our best to purchase fruit and veg from local markets. The produce tends to be fresher, cheaper and local. It also helps keep them in business. In Marrakech, for instance, the difference in price between the markets and supermarket chains was ridiculous. If you're on a tight budget, it is definitely worth considering.

Check your dates!

Twice we turned up in Buenos Aires on days when the city had practically closed down. Once was a national holiday and on another occasion it was the Census. When you need access to shops - particularly for food - you don't want to be caught out. So before travelling or nailing down your dates, it's worth confirming your arrival dates don't coincide with a public holiday. Don't rely on the travel agent to tell you. 

Driving on slower roads

Tolls in France and most of Europe are really expensive. We couldn't believe last summer how much the cost of driving in Europe had escalated. We came off the toll roads in France, Italy, Slovenia and Croatia several times and, guess what? The experience was much more pleasurable: you get to see the real countryside and villages. You see so much more than when bombing up and down motorways, which tend to always look the same. Though it was much slower, going on the A roads is a lot cheaper. If you're not in a hurry, we'd certainly recommend it. 

Have a sick bag when on public transport

We had several incidents - in coaches, cars, taxis, ferries, aeroplanes - when a sick bag was required and we didn't have anything at the ready. In Ecuador, the taxis and public buses were awful in terms of smooth riding. Zenchai sometimes would throw up within minutes! Some plane rides are rough also. It's just better to be equipped and have plastic/paper bags easily at hand. You won't be sorry. 

Always check pots and pans when renting

It's easy when renting an apartment to look the place over, sign on the dotted line and part with your cash without looking in the cupboards to see what they have provided. Check the details. Make sure the accommodation offers what is being advertised. We got caught out in Cuenca last year when the kitchen didn't even have any gas for the burner! We also had to beg for dishes, chopping boards, knives etc - items you'd think would be standard. Don't assume kitchens are fully equipped. 

Have a camera on hand and spare battery charged

Do you ever find that when you leave behind your camera a photo opportunity presents itself? We do. So we decided that the golden rule is always take the camera - just in case. Better to have it and not use it than to have a once-in-a-lifetime moment pass you by. Charge your spare battery also. We do it almost immediately whenever one of our batteries dies. Having photographic memories is priceless. Be organised. 

Divide and conquer 

Doing everything as a family can be tiring and absorbing. Sometimes we, as parents, need a break - from partners, being parents and children. We learned to split the responsibilities. We still do things together, but, more now than before, also take turns in looking after Zenchai and going on excursions with him. It's made a significant difference and can really help restore some sanity and reduce the demands of being a close-knit family. 

Carry snacks and a pen

With young children - and pregnant women - you can't go far without having snacks. If, like us, your dietary requirements mean you prefer not to rely on junk food and sweets etc, it's essential to do some shopping in advance and get stocked up in case of any emergencies. Kids can quickly become a handful if they get over-hungry, so we try always to remember to pack fruit and snacks or make the effort to find out where there is a food source nearby. A pen can also come in handy. You never know when you may have to jot down some important information. So keep one tucked away in your bag or pocket at all times. 

Do your research when eating out

When eating out, we make sure we've done some investigating first. We use the Happy Cow and Vegan backpackers websites a lot. They are excellent for details on where to eat vegan around the world. We also have our travel guidebooks, that make recommendations. However, don't always trust the information. We've gone searching for restaurants with great reviews on Happy Cow only to find they no longer exist. That's why it's always useful to have a back-up plan. Similarly, guide books are usually a year or so out of date by the time you buy it. Prices can change. We learned the hard way that it pays to check the prices before sitting down. Usually, restaurants will display their menu and prices in the window. 

Buy watermelons whole

There's a good way to check if a watermelon is ripe: put it to your ear and tap it. If it sounds hollow then it's ready for consumption. But sometimes shops and small grocers will sell large watermelons in halves or slices. This can result in a melon sitting out for a while. We had one case in San Marcos Sierras, Argentina, where it was hot and we bought a half watermelon. By the time we sat down to eat it (about 30 minutes after the purchase), it had virtually turned to alcohol. The best way to avoid this is buy them whole or watch them cut a whole one open if you want slices. 

 

World Travel: Jamie's Top 10 Memories 2010

I found it really hard to narrow my list down to 10 things, but here they are, in no particular order.

1. Adriatic Sea - There is something spectacularly special about the deep blue waters of the Adriatic Sea that reaches me on a soul level. I am enamoured with that salty body of water.

2. Attending Hippocrates Health Institute in West Palm Beach - After four years of intensive mothering, I was able to really refill my cup. I was nourished in every way needed.

3. Visiting friends and family in their home countries/cities - It was so delightful to be welcomed into friends' and families’ homes. Connecting with distant relatives and far-away friends really made my year. I can’t even express how loved we have felt.

4. Kindness of strangers - Many times this year we have had experienced generosity in all its various forms. It continually brings a smile to my face how blessed we are. 5. Following the sun - As a seeker of the heat, I have relished having a sun-soaked year and not experiencing plummeting cold temperatures.

6. Buying produce from farmer’s markets/ eating locally - I’m a foodie at heart. Seeing, smelling, tasting and eating fresh, local foods always makes my pulse race with pleasure.

7. Being disconnected from the news and media - I generally don’t watch the news or read newspapers. But when in an English-speaking place the world happenings and media frenzies somehow always make their way into your consciousness. However, travelling and being in places where I am not fluent in the local language has made me blissfully oblivious.

8. Reading for pleasure - Being the book worm type, it has been refreshing just reading a few novels instead of my usual plethora of parenting or health-related books.

9. Conceiving our second baby - I don’t think I need to explain the joy in that! But I will say it was a delightful ‘surprise’.

10. Watching Zenchai's creative play - I am constantly in awe of his ability to make games out of nothing, especially his unique niche of transforming ordinary items into cars or car parts. I love witnessing his vision and imagination.

World Travel: Claude's Reflections On A Year On The Road - Part Two

AS we prepare to embark on the next stage of our travel – in January to Brazil – we hope Zenchai’s needs are going to be more fully supported.

We shall be on Brazil’s Bahia coast for five months and, of course, in April he is going to have a sibling, which is likely to throw a whole new set of issues into our family dynamic.

Not that Zenchai has been miserable by any standards. He has adapted incredibly well for someone who this year has visited 15 countries by aeroplane, car or boat, stayed in 42 destinations and had 54 changes of accommodation.

Whenever I look at our family photos, his beaming face reassures me that our journey has been worthwhile and nourishing.

At first, though, each change of location was met with behavioural issues. And on several occasions moving has caused him some sadness – in particular when we left Kukljica in Croatia and my uncle’s in Santeny, near Paris, during the summer.

Zenchai often talks fondly and excitedly about his experiences, though. He remembers the finer details, too. We talk about it often. We look through pictures and discuss the people he’s met and places we’ve visited along the way.

Has the travel been better or worse for him? That’s not a question I can answer, partly because all children are so unique and it’s much too early to tell how this will impact on him, positively or negatively. What benefits one child may hinder another. And don't our experiences, whether 'good' or 'bad', shape and make us? Often it's the hardship - and overcoming it - that builds character, although I should emphasize that we aren't seeking hardship.

Zenchai has grown in a different way by travelling than he would have had we stayed put in our old home outside of London. He doesn’t have the stability of a house and his own play room, but, whether we’re in a hotel, hostel, apartment or someone’s home, knows his parents will be there for him night and day.

Since leaving the UK, Zenchai has also spent nearly every day outdoors. He gets much more exercise than he used to. He complained about the walking at first, but now does 5km in hot conditions almost routinely (and he’s not especially fond of the heat). Just the other week we went on a hike over large rocks and through caves and he really loved the adventure. But there are moments, too, when he protests incessantly.

For sure, there have been moments when Jamie and I have asked ourselves, ‘Have we done the right thing?’ But those thoughts, I reckon, are only natural in moments of uncertainty.

What I’d add is that similar doubts often used to cross my mind when I was working in London and the idea of continuing to break my back for a big corporation and the possibility of not seeing the world was eating away at me.

As a family, we have become much closer. We’ve come to recognise each other’s faults and strong points because we see and deal with them (often) every day. But we also have more niggling and testing moments: as a threesome often in places where we have no outside support, there is little respite. That can prove demanding.

We have now learned more to create individual time for each other and this involves making sacrifices. It’s essential when travelling in this way. Initially, we used to do everything together. It’s more fun. No-one wants to miss out on anything. But now I reckon it’s much better to occasionally split the childcare duties and give each other a breather.

During September, when in West Palm Beach, Florida, I had three weeks when it was mostly just Zenchai and I.

To be honest, I was apprehensive beforehand about the prospect. I had never previously had to take care of him all day every day for more than a few days. The idea of doing it 24/7 seemed daunting. Zenchai and Jamie had also never been apart for long.

Though we butted heads several times – actually many if I’m honest – it was great fun. We did things together and made space for each other as well. We shared meal times and talked a lot (I probably did more listening). I got to learn all about trucks, too, because bed-time stories each day involved reading and looking at the adverts in a free trucking mag we’d picked up from a service station!

One of the main reasons for leaving my work, though, was to dedicate more time to Zenchai – to be there while he was growing up. It means a lot to me that Zenchai feels a part of a family and that Jamie and I are around as much as possible during his most formative years.

I don’t think he fully appreciates that now. Because he’s not in a school system, Zenchai doesn’t know it to be any different. This, for him, is normal. I’m fascinated to see what he will be like as a big brother and how we change as a family when we become a foursome.

That’s just one challenge that awaits us in 2011. I am certain there will be many more. But I prefer not to look too far into the future because the course of life can change in an instant. It also takes your eyes off the present moment, which is so precious. That’s something I’m still working on.

Having had most of this year mapped out from the beginning, it was always tempting when in a place we weren’t particularly enjoying to think about a destination ahead that we were savouring. I learned, though, that it also takes time to adapt to your surroundings and circumstances. What feels awkward and undesirable at first can, in time, feel the opposite – if you give it a chance and are open to the possibility.

For instance, when we first arrived in Vilcabamba, Ecuador (with great expectations), we looked at each other and thought, ‘Let’s get out of here’. But five weeks later we moved on, somewhat reluctantly.

The year was, for me, the beginning of a massive shift in lifestyle. I knew it would take time to unwind from having worked in a big city for over 20 years doing the same thing – and it has.

I said to myself at the start of the year that I wouldn’t work for the first 12 months and for much of the time I have been too absorbed in parenting and family life to think of anything else.

But I’ve found that I now regularly crave sinking my teeth into a project of some description and that is something I hope to act upon next year. It doesn’t mean I want out from the life I am leading. I just have a desire to add to it with something that gives me a sense of purpose and fulfilment in addition to and beyond sharing days and experiences with my wife and son.

I’m still adapting (which makes me wonder how people are supposed to recharge with just a two or three-week vacation) and getting the hang of travelling with a family. Maybe next year I’ll get to grips with it!

The same applies to languages. I haven’t progressed as much as I had hoped. My Spanish is still basic. My Croatian, though, improved. However, I feel more confident with languages (even Spanish) even if I’m not significantly more proficient.

I’m less concerned about not making any sense and follow the ethos of my best friend Bob Lesson, who just throws what words he knows together and somehow makes himself understood. Nowadays I’ll just have a try. This year I’m going to make a committed effort at Brazilian Portugese.

None of this matters, though, if you haven’t got your health and, physically, I still feel youthful except when Zenchai asks me to play a game with him that involves crawling on hands and knees for a sustained period. I get plenty of exercise and sunshine, though. We eat lots of fruits and vegetables – as much locally-grown and organic as possible. We’ve avoided fast food at all costs, even though it would have been infinitely cheaper.

Family life provides many joys, but also most of my anguish. It’s also always in the back of my mind that our travelling money will one day run dry and that I/we must discover a way of generating some income.

I’m still persevering at being a good father and husband and meeting the challenges of family life the way I aspire to. We are also pondering different career possibilities and, with a baby coming, what to do and where to go after we stop back in England from Brazil next July.

Travelling, however, continually throws me opportunities to better myself and succeed where before I have failed, often miserably. It’s a fantastic way – especially when moving slowly – to see and feel the world and meet new people.

I don’t foresee us travelling indefinitely, but haven’t yet discovered a place where I’d like to make roots. In a way that’s positive, because I still have destinations I would like to visit first, like India, Thailand, Japan, China, Australia and New Zealand.

Perhaps that will come next.

World Travel: My Top 10 Memories Of 2010

1. Mornings in Kukljica, Croatia

Waking up, seeing the sun rise over a calm Adriatic Sea and taking a plunge with the water all to myself.

2. River Plate v Boca Juniors

The ultimate club football experience. A genuine grudge match in Argentina’s national stadium (in Buenos Aires) with colours, noises and celebrations I’ve never seen before.

3. Driving through Croatia

We spent two months there this summer. Although I’d spent many months during my childhood in my motherland, for some reason the true beauty escaped me – until we drove there and home this summer. It is truly the most stunning country in Europe (for me anyway).

4. Meeting new people and seeing family members

One of the real joys of travelling is the interesting people you meet and friends you make. I met some fascinating characters. But another huge pleasure was spending time with family, from Croatia to France to Florida to Buenos Aires, and introducing them to my family.

5. Views of Quito

Being the highest capital city in the world has some advantages. Although Quito is a vast concrete jungle, there are some superb vantage points. I loved discovering them to take in the spectacular sights.

6. Rock-climbing with Zenchai in Argentina

With temperatures in the 90s, Zenchai and I went into the rocks at Paseo de Mamagotes close to Capilla Del Monte. Wearing flip-flops, Zenchai wasn’t ideally equipped. Some of the rocks were slippery and when he slid early on, he wanted to turn back. But I convinced him to continue, pretending we were on a pirate treasure hunt, and he persevered. He loved it and so did I.

7. Introduction to Hillbilly golf

At a family gathering for Jamie’s mother in Toledo, Ohio in August, a bizarre game was unveiled. It involved what looked like mini-rugby posts but with an added bar on the top. The only other equipment required were six golf balls with rope going through them. The posts are placed about 20ft apart and teams toss the balls by the rope, aiming to hook them on to the posts. The higher the ball sticks, the better the score. Couldn’t believe how much fun it was.

8. Eating ripe, locally-grown watermelons

You may have gathered my favourite fruit is watermelon. It’s not only fantastic for hydrating and full of goodness, but so tasty when chilled. We had our best watermelons in Croatia and Argentina.

9. Hiking Cerro Uritorco

In Capilla Del Monte, Argentina, where we spent Christmas and New Year, one mountain overlooks the region. It's an impressive beast and hiking it one morning after Christmas was unforgettable not only for the views, but also the challenge and the stunning sense of tranquility and connecting with nature. 

10. Weekend in Icacos, Trinidad

What a special place, so peaceful, colourful and spectacularly photographic. Lake, beach, sunshine and, above all else, a sense of calm and silence I didn’t experience or find anywhere else on the island.

Ugljan/Pašman: Beach Spots

Ugljan

Sabuša: A 30-minute walk from the village centre, Sabuša has beautiful views of the Kornati islands and, because of the sandy base to the shallow water, it's a perfect spot for children. There are plenty of trees for shade on hot days, but no ameneties nearby. During August, you can pick from the many fig trees.

Zelena Punta: Large pine forest area opposite the marina that has numerous bays for swimming, some of which are sandy and shallow enough to stand. Depending on which way the wind blows, great places can be found for swimming all around the peninsula. Some, though, are rockier than others. We loved it here, although it can get busy.

Zavhr: This bay is on the other side of Zelena Punta. You'd need to walk for a few minutes, starting by the narrow street by the side of the tourist office to get there. Here the water, especially in the morning, is fabulously calm. There are some excellent swimming spots and a diving platform. It can also get wavy in the afternoons, though this is great for wind-surfers.

Kostanj: A sandy cove, intimately tucked away beyond the 15th Century church of St Jerome and a fair distance from the village centre, is sadly spoiled by littering. It's horribly dirty, which is a shame as there is potential for this to be an excellent beach location. The walk there, going through the pine forest, is attractive.

Jelenica: A smaller version of Sabusa with a sandy, shallow bay, which makes for plenty of fun for children. You can get there either from the main road passing by Kukljica or from Sabuša by walking further along the coastline.

Poljana:

By the basketball court: This seemed to be the best location in this tiny and quiet village. There is some sand, but it's mostly pebbles and rocks and the wind can gust a little. You can see the village of Preko in the distance. There's a large concrete base for bathers to lie down and car parking nearby.

Marina: Follow the coastline around (on the opposite side to the basketball court) and you'll find several pebbled beaches with clean water and nicely tucked away. But the coves are small.

Pašman

Pašman: Located across from the islet of Babac in the Pašman Channel, this village has two sandy beaches. One, close to the church and near a camping site, is bigger, tends to be busier and is less sheltered. On the other side is another beach spot, which we found to be excellent. The water is knee-deep for 20 metres and pure sand.

Mrljane: What this small, undeveloped village lacks in terms of restaurants and atmosphere it makes up for with a large swimming/play area. You can walk for about 100m out to sea before the water rises to chest height (for an average sized adult). Therefore, it's great for young children. It can get blustery, as the bay is quite open. There are trees lining the beach, offering some respite from the sun.

Neviđane: There's a tiny, but pretty sandy bay which is perfect for playing in rather than swimming. It gets really busy in high season, but the water is clean and warm. There are children's play areas with swings and slides - one of which is on the end of a pier and heads into the ocean.

Kukljica: Night Riding and Skinny Dipping

I HAVE no idea how the couple sitting quietly on a bench, enjoying an ice cream after dinner, must have felt. But out of the shadows in the calm waters I emerged, swimming towards the pier.

It was dark. You could see the city lights across the water in Zadar and the stars up above. I decided to take a late-night swim, my first.

Why it had taken me this long in life to experience such a pleasure I cannot explain. But better late than never.

It was admittedly unnerving at first. Jamie said the same when she followed me later. You can see NOTHING beneath you in the deep, dark water and it's eerily quiet and lonely.

Thoughts - not good ones - enter your mind. But I kept reminding myself these waters were safe. And they are.

My only genuine concern was finding the pier from which I started my swim. Lighting wasn't exactly great and I preferred not to step on to a sea urchin when getting out.

However, as far as swimming experiences go, that was only the beginning. The following day it got even better.

The water in the Adriatic had been so calm and warm, the air muggy and sun hot that taking a plunge had reached new levels of irresistibility during the day.

Best of all was stripping naked - skinny dipping. That was real freestyle swimming. It was done discreetly, of course.

But now I know how it feels all the time for Zenchai and why the little guy always grinning when in the ocean.