Abrams Family World Travel

World Travel: Lessons Learned from Our First Year

We most definitely live and learn travelling the way we do. Mistakes are inevitable, but also invaluable.

That's why every 'bad' experience we've had has effectively been a blessing. It also doesn't harm to learn from what others have been through. Therefore, we thought we'd share with you what information we think has been priceless or helpful from our first 12 months travelling - advice that would most certainly have shortened our learning curve had we known in advance. 

 

Travelling with the sun

Both Claude and I relish the sunshine. So when we mapped out our itinerary to London, we knew that we wanted to follow the sun and be in places during their summers. However, what we did not consider was how our pursuit of warmth would also empty our pockets more quickly.

While it has been fantastic enjoying over a year of summer-like conditions, it has also meant travelling to places during peak season. Had we thought more deeply about travelling with the sun, we could have timed our arrivals into certain cities/areas just before or after the high season.

Something else that did not cross our minds was how travelling with the sun would effect Zenchai's socialisation with other children. By continuously landing in places during summer time, schools have almost always been closed.

When in small villages, like Kukljica in Croatia, this was not so much a problem as potential playmates by the sea were abundant. But in large cities like Buenos Aires, where children weren't roaming freely, this meant lonely playtimes for Zenchai.

Have at least the first night's stay booked

When you arrive in a new location try to have the first night's accommodation pre-booked. Sometimes there's a temptation to take a chance and see what you can find by wondering around - and that's understandable if you're not sure you want to stay. But we've found this rather stressful, especially if you discover the city or town you intend to stay in is fully booked. It's a real pain, particularly if you have children, to go from one hotel/hostel to another, hoping something is available. Going through Europe by car last summer we found ourselves on a few occasions - tired from a long day of driving - cruising down dimly-lit streets in the middle of the night and knocking on doors to find accommodation. Now we check online with tripadvisor and hostelworld and always read reviews, too. It narrows the choice and you discover feedback on whether a place is noisy, a party hostel, has a kitchen, internet etc. 

Challenge of staying with people

On both Claude's and my top ten memories of 2010 was meeting and staying with friends and family. Those moments of union with loved ones have definitely left a huge impression on our hearts.

However, at times those stays didn't always go without a hitch in the sense that we both have felt uncomfortable in instances where our destiny was out of our control. Being reliant on transport, food or basic necessities has at times made us feel powerless, which can create friction for us.

We have learned that we are far more comfortable in other people's spaces if we are able to cater to our basic familial needs and not having to completely pass the buck to those who host us.

Clothing, toys, books etc

With each leg of our trip we have realised our tendency to over-pack, especially clothing, toys for Zenchai and books. This overindulgence created many anxious moments while we waited in queues at the airport to check our luggage.

Would our bags be overweight - again? This is something we are continually refining and with the impending arrival of our newest family member it is also something we need to perfect sooner rather than later.

Suitcases vs Rucksacks

At the moment we are travelling with two suitcases. My monster pink case and Claude's more sensibly-sized case. However, we have encountered many situations where having a rucksack each would have made for smoother travel.

Manage your money smartly

Travellers cheques used to be the only way to carry large amounts of currency when travelling. Not anymore. In Ecuador, travellers cheques were practically useless. Claude had to go from one bank to another to find someone willing to cash them. We haven't used them since. We opted for the FairFX card. It's simple to top up and all you require is an ATM machine to get your cash. FairFX offer you the option of having your money in pounds, dollars or Euros but don't charge for currency conversions or withdrawals (however, banks in certain countries, like Argentina and Uruguay, do impose a fee per transaction - roughly £3, which adds up). It's also worth noting - and checking - before travelling which credit cards certain countries prefer. For instance, Visa is the favoured card in Argentina. And in some countries, like Ecuador, credit card transactions are minimal, so you need access to cash. Do your homework.

Buy fruit and veg locally 

We do our best to purchase fruit and veg from local markets. The produce tends to be fresher, cheaper and local. It also helps keep them in business. In Marrakech, for instance, the difference in price between the markets and supermarket chains was ridiculous. If you're on a tight budget, it is definitely worth considering.

Check your dates!

Twice we turned up in Buenos Aires on days when the city had practically closed down. Once was a national holiday and on another occasion it was the Census. When you need access to shops - particularly for food - you don't want to be caught out. So before travelling or nailing down your dates, it's worth confirming your arrival dates don't coincide with a public holiday. Don't rely on the travel agent to tell you. 

Driving on slower roads

Tolls in France and most of Europe are really expensive. We couldn't believe last summer how much the cost of driving in Europe had escalated. We came off the toll roads in France, Italy, Slovenia and Croatia several times and, guess what? The experience was much more pleasurable: you get to see the real countryside and villages. You see so much more than when bombing up and down motorways, which tend to always look the same. Though it was much slower, going on the A roads is a lot cheaper. If you're not in a hurry, we'd certainly recommend it. 

Have a sick bag when on public transport

We had several incidents - in coaches, cars, taxis, ferries, aeroplanes - when a sick bag was required and we didn't have anything at the ready. In Ecuador, the taxis and public buses were awful in terms of smooth riding. Zenchai sometimes would throw up within minutes! Some plane rides are rough also. It's just better to be equipped and have plastic/paper bags easily at hand. You won't be sorry. 

Always check pots and pans when renting

It's easy when renting an apartment to look the place over, sign on the dotted line and part with your cash without looking in the cupboards to see what they have provided. Check the details. Make sure the accommodation offers what is being advertised. We got caught out in Cuenca last year when the kitchen didn't even have any gas for the burner! We also had to beg for dishes, chopping boards, knives etc - items you'd think would be standard. Don't assume kitchens are fully equipped. 

Have a camera on hand and spare battery charged

Do you ever find that when you leave behind your camera a photo opportunity presents itself? We do. So we decided that the golden rule is always take the camera - just in case. Better to have it and not use it than to have a once-in-a-lifetime moment pass you by. Charge your spare battery also. We do it almost immediately whenever one of our batteries dies. Having photographic memories is priceless. Be organised. 

Divide and conquer 

Doing everything as a family can be tiring and absorbing. Sometimes we, as parents, need a break - from partners, being parents and children. We learned to split the responsibilities. We still do things together, but, more now than before, also take turns in looking after Zenchai and going on excursions with him. It's made a significant difference and can really help restore some sanity and reduce the demands of being a close-knit family. 

Carry snacks and a pen

With young children - and pregnant women - you can't go far without having snacks. If, like us, your dietary requirements mean you prefer not to rely on junk food and sweets etc, it's essential to do some shopping in advance and get stocked up in case of any emergencies. Kids can quickly become a handful if they get over-hungry, so we try always to remember to pack fruit and snacks or make the effort to find out where there is a food source nearby. A pen can also come in handy. You never know when you may have to jot down some important information. So keep one tucked away in your bag or pocket at all times. 

Do your research when eating out

When eating out, we make sure we've done some investigating first. We use the Happy Cow and Vegan backpackers websites a lot. They are excellent for details on where to eat vegan around the world. We also have our travel guidebooks, that make recommendations. However, don't always trust the information. We've gone searching for restaurants with great reviews on Happy Cow only to find they no longer exist. That's why it's always useful to have a back-up plan. Similarly, guide books are usually a year or so out of date by the time you buy it. Prices can change. We learned the hard way that it pays to check the prices before sitting down. Usually, restaurants will display their menu and prices in the window. 

Buy watermelons whole

There's a good way to check if a watermelon is ripe: put it to your ear and tap it. If it sounds hollow then it's ready for consumption. But sometimes shops and small grocers will sell large watermelons in halves or slices. This can result in a melon sitting out for a while. We had one case in San Marcos Sierras, Argentina, where it was hot and we bought a half watermelon. By the time we sat down to eat it (about 30 minutes after the purchase), it had virtually turned to alcohol. The best way to avoid this is buy them whole or watch them cut a whole one open if you want slices. 

 

World Travel: Claude's Reflections On A Year On The Road - Part One

I IMAGINED when I left full-time employment over a year ago that during the first 12 months travelling with my family – wife and four-year-old son - I’d have plenty of time on my hands.

Perhaps it was foolish to figure I’d have to myself a significant share of the hours I had spent at work and commuting.

It hasn’t worked out that way. In fact, I have less time for self-indulgence now than before. Life has been more challenging, too, but I expected that.

Working in London, I was coasting through each day, almost on auto-pilot, although there were aspects of the job (editor of Boxing News) and lifestyle that were demanding and stressful.

In terms of stress, I would say I feel about the same, but the type of stress is different. Anyone who thinks I’m living the perfect life, joyfully passing each day in a state of bliss, basking in sunshine, will probably find this blog somewhat surprising.

It would be easy for me to paint a rosy picture. My decision to trade in a relatively comfortable lifestyle for a global family exploration was regarded by some as brave and fantastic while others reacted as if I were stupid and/or insane.

I could easily permit my pride to prevent me admitting to any hardships or failings. But that would make the value of this article worthless. The truth is that it has felt like a much tougher 12 months than I had the previous year when working in London every day.

With most jobs I’ve had, the task has become easier through repetition and familiarity, but parenting and living on the road (which is now my job effectively) continually presents fresh trials and confrontations.

While there have been many times when I have felt utterly exasperated, I don’t regret for one second my decision to leave a secure occupation and sell our family home. I wouldn’t exchange the experiences I’ve had this year just for a regular wage and safe abode. My year, in fact, has whizzed by.

Although we’ve been back to London twice this year between trips, on our longer stints abroad I haven’t once yearned to be back in Britain or at my old job. We miss family and friends, of course, but during our travels have enjoyed some precious moments with family we haven’t easily been able to see when we were living in England. We’ve also made some great friends.

In today’s age, what with the internet, Skype and Facebook etc, staying in contact is made so much easier and more intimate. Talking to someone on Skype can almost seem like seeing them in person. It takes away the longing.

However, while it can at times be unsettling not knowing where ‘home’ is, it can also be exciting. We tend to think of ‘home’ as where we are as a family unit. A house is a house – a building – and not necessarily a home.

A greater concern for us has been finding ways of satisfying Zenchai’s developmental needs as he grows older, most specifically the desire to interact with other children.

In the earlier part of the year, when we were in Morocco and Ecuador, it wasn’t an issue. But recently Jamie and I have both felt a sense of yearning on Zenchai’s part to be around other children and no amount of time spent with us (in an adult world) can satisfy that.

It has been painful at times watching him play alone, knowing he desperately wants (child) company. It’s been equally heart-breaking seeing him unsuccessfully try to make inroads into a group of children who speak a foreign language to him. To some extent his confidence has taken a knock.

Initially, particularly when we were in Ecuador, he resisted trying to learn new languages. But he has now recognised how it can create opportunity. I found also that by speaking to him in Spanish or Croatian (or whatever language we need to be using), he has started to pick up words and phrases, too, while at the same time enabling me to improve my word skills as well.

The secret, as with almost anything – for children as well as adults, is to make it fun. Sometimes when we play games I use (my limited) Spanish only and invariably I have to find words and phrases that relate to cars and pirates (his latest fascination).

But just as Zenchai has started to make some inroads into Spanish while in Argentina, he is about to face even greater challenges. More on that in Part Two. 

World Travel: Our Favourites - Cities, Beaches, Restaurants, Hotels...

These are our favourite places, restaurants, beaches, parks and hotels, locations we’ve travelled to over the years and have no trouble recommending. It’s a list we shall keep updated periodically as we continue our journey and explore.

Cities

1. Edinburgh, Scotland: Nice for walking, plenty to see, close to the coast, variety of restaurants, compact.

2. Lisbon, Portugal: Amazing architecture, lovely climate, great squares, economical and efficient public transport.

3. New York, USA: Bustling, huge, stimulating, never a shortage of places to go, eat and see. Lots of parks and play areas, excellent and affordable metro.

4. Venice, Italy:  Romantic, picturesque, walkable, trafficless and atmospheric.

5. Maastricht, Holland: Charming, tranquil, small, clean and safe with delightful squares and friendly people.

 

Beaches

1. Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica: Long stretches of sand without a person in sight or litter, stunning sunsets and perfect sea temperatures

2. Whale’s Tail, Costa Rica: Set in a National Park, with impressive caves you can walk through, great sand and warm seas

3. Los Frailes, Ecuador: Clear water, secluded, perfect waves, clean sand, sea temperature consistently good. All it’s missing is some shelter from the scorching sun and somewhere for refreshments (make sure you bring your own!)

4. Englishman’s Bay, Tobago: Long, intimate stretch of beautiful sandy beach with palm trees and clear green water, just where you’d imagine Robinson Crusoe making his base. There’s a shop and café on site also.

5. Playa del Carmen, Mexico: White, cool sand and crystal clear waters.

 

Restaurants

1. Napfenyes Etterem, Budapest: So good we ate there every day on our short stay, sometimes twice in a day. Great menu, nice staff. Almost too many delightful dishes, making our choice so much tougher (hence the reason we kept coming back) Rózsa u 39, District VII, Budapest 1077 +36-1-3135555. http://www.napfenyesetterem.hu/

2. Pure Food & Wine, Manhattan, New York: Somewhat pricey, but worth it, if only for the scrumptious desserts. Formal vegan restaurant with raw options. www.oneluckyduck.com 54 Irving Place New York, NY 10003-2314 Tel: (212) 477-1010

3. Terra, Lisbon, Portugal: Fabulous buffet spread when we visited over five years ago. Food is fresh and the ginger juice, though laced with sugar, so refreshing. www.restauranteterra.pt Príncipe Real, Rua da Palmeira 15, 1200-311 LISBOA, Portugal Tel: 213 421 407

4. Tiestos, Cuenca, Ecuador: Delicious food delivered in a large tagine (tiesto). The chef can make almost whatever you like and uses his ingredients so perfectly. A hit every time. Juan Jaramillo 7-34, City Centre, Cuenca, Ecuador

5. Buenos Aires Verde, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Outstanding organic vegetarian nosh, always beautifully presented, fresh and nutritious. Plenty of vegan and raw vegan options. Lovely setting, relaxed atmosphere and genuine staff. There is a menu in English. Try the salads, pizza, deserts and smoothies. Reasonably priced as well, especially when compared to most organic raw food/vegetarian restaurants. Gorriti 5657, Buenos Aires. http://www.bsasverde.com/index_en.html. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-0.30am.

 

Parks

1. El Retiro, Madrid, Spain: Outstanding and in the city centre (near Retiro subway). Has many jogging paths and exercise areas as well as a lake with boats, cycle routes and quieter, shaded areas to sit.

2. Munich Olympic Park, Germany: By the former Olympic stadium, these manicured grounds near the centre of the city were used for the 1972 Games. The park has a lake and river and is perfect for running, cycling, rollerblading or just strolling.

3. Central Park, New York: At the tip of Manhattan, the park has something for everyone in any season, Great for walking, running, playing sports, rollerblading or just to pass some time.

4. Ruislip Lido, Ruislip, England: Close to where we used to live on the west side of London, there’s a lake, a man-made sandy beach, extensive kids play area and path around the water for walking, cycling or running. Great in the mornings, when no-one is awake, the lido also backs on to Ruislip Woods, an expansive wooded area.

5. Cyber Park, Marrakech, Morocco: Clean, educational and close to the famous Medina. Closes around 5pm. It has a calm feel while also providing a great play area for children.

 

Hotels/hostals

1. Villa de las Aves, Uvita, Costa Rica: Fabulous two-floor house-type buildings with private jacuzzi, kitchens and a communal pool set in grounds surrounded by trees, animals and birds. With delightful owners, too - from Australia and UK, this is a spectacular place within reach of Costa Rica's great beaches. http://www.villasdelasaves.com/

2. Bahia Principe Tulum, Playa del Carmen: Mexico All-inclusive resort hotel close to crystal clear sea water and private white sandy beaches.

3. Mandala, Puerto Lopez, Ecuador: Immaculately decorated – has so much to offer, like a library, games room, restaurant, gardens and music room. http://www.hosteriamandala.info/

4. Hip Hotel, Maastricht, Holland: Super sleek, funky one-time apartments converted into themed hotel rooms at affordable prices. There’s secure parking also, but at a fee. http://www.st-martenslane.com/

5. Intercontinental, Chicago airport: Comfortable, tasteful and sheek. 5300 North River Road, Rosemont. Tel: (847) 544-5300

Child's Play ~ Morocco

'Travel is the ultimate means of education because it exposes children to things they only learn about through books'

Every travel guide and website we read about Marrakech said it wasn’t a place tailored for young children. But we found plenty to do and most were experiences Zenchai couldn’t possibly have had in Blighty. Here are a few suggestions.

 Climb a mountain

Zenchai named the ‘mountain’ near to where stayed ‘Daddy Mountain’ and for days talked about climbing it. The challenge was sterner than he imagined - very rocky and quite steep in parts. But, at the second attempt, he went to the top and back. Because of his new-found fascination for cowboys, we talked about Indian trackers, how they respected the land, searched for tracks etc and he took on the role and didn’t think about the difficulty of the walk, ascent or descent.

Horse and carriage ride

These are everywhere near the Medina and primarily for the tourist. Be sure to negotiate a good price. We paid 200 for 45 minutes. Zenchai loved it so much he wanted to do it again.   

Visiting Souks

It took a few visits for Zenchai to get comfortable. Souks are crowded. Watch out for bicycles and motorbikes shooting up and down – and at speed. It’s easy for children not paying attention to get knocked over. We carried Zenchai a lot – either in a sling   or on daddy’s shoulders.

Learning French and Arabic

They say children learn languages more easily than adults. We often assigned Zenchai the task of asking for the bill and then paying it. It gave him the confidence to use new words and approach strangers. He felt a great sense of satisfaction and would often ask to learn and try new words.

Playing football

Having a football opens a lot of doors and enables children to play together regardless of nationality. We bought a ball and kicked it around most days. Although Zenchai loved to change the rules, he got a ton of exercise chasing a ball and pretending to be Fernando Torres, Ronaldinho and Pepe Reina.

Boules

Simple game and easy for children to play, even if not properly or rigidly. Zenchai particularly liked using the measuring tape to see which ball was closest.   

Swimming outside (naked)

Out of respect we wouldn’t recommend this in a Muslim country. But we were at a private residence. Our pool, however, was freezing – no other way to describe it. Yet Zenchai had no fear getting in – starkers – and having fun, even if he shivered with delight afterwards. 

 Eating at the famous Medina stalls

There are some wonderfully cheap eats to be had. The food stalls are set up from around 5pm in the main square. We looked for the busiest table, sat down and ordered. We had beans, lentils and bread for around £2.50 (for the entire family). You can’t argue with that. It was great to sit next to strangers and eat. Zenchai didn’t bat an eyelid. Wearing his Brazilian Ronaldinho shirt, he attracted plenty of attention from the locals, who were all friendly and welcoming. (I’d recommend getting a Brazil kit for your child).

Playing snap

Our good friend Christina bought Zenchai a parting gift – playing cards. These proved fantastic, especially as there were many rainy days when we were practically house-bound. Zenchai loved snap.   

Building sandcastles and playing in the ocean

We took a short and cheap coach trip – three hours – to Essaouira and played on the beach for hours. Take some cars – if your child likes them – and build roads and buildings and children will remain absorbed for hours. Warning about the beach in Essaouira – it’s full of broken glass. Make sure your child has sandals or crocs and wears them even when in the water.

 Playing with Moroccan children

Breaking down barriers was easier in some situations than others. On one occasion in Essaouira, just after my wife and I had observed how Moroccan children often like to fight each other and get aggressive, Zenchai noticed an older girl on a bicycle. He watched intently and the Moroccan children saw him staring. Amazingly, they – three kids – wheeled the bike over, put Zenchai on it and pushed him around the square. Then they helped him lie on a skateboard with another boy and pushed him around for a while. It was a great example to him of how for children to share.

Stroking horses, donkeys and sheep

In Marrakech, especially just out of town, sheep are plentiful. We encountered them often, as we did donkeys and, in town, horses. It was nice for Zenchai to stroke them and see how they feel, react and what they do.

Taking photos

We had Zenchai take some photos. They weren’t always brilliant or worth saving, but he seemed chuffed at the opportunity and learned how to do it. He did take one particularly decent night shot.  

Playing outdoors (nearly) every day

All right, the weather in Marrakech wasn’t what we expected for the desert and north Africa. But in spite of seasonally high amounts of rain and ferocious wind, it was still far easier for us to spend a large portion of our day outdoors instead of inside. Kids burn off a lot more energy running around and enjoy the sense of freedom that comes with it.

Drinking/making mint tea

This is the national drink in Morocco. It was hit and miss for us in terms of whether we enjoyed it or not. But one particular restaurant in Essaouira made a great cup with honey instead of sugar (which we avoid). We bought some mint and made some for ourselves. Zenchai liked it, too, and observed how to make it. 

 Flying a kite

On one of the many stormy days, Zenchai picked up a plastic bag which had blown his way from somewhere, and started running around with it, pretending he was a dragster and the bag was the parachute breaking system. The bag soon became a kite and by adding some string we had fun flying it. 

Cyber Park  Arsat Moulay Abdeslam

Stuck for somewhere to take your child? Try the Cyber Park outside the Medina. There’s free WiFi (apparently – we didn’t test it) and it’s clean, which is unusual, given that Moroccans, sadly, tend to litter everywhere. But this park is immaculate. Pity we only discovered it on our final days. Note: It closes around 5pm.   

Les Jardines De La Menara ‎

Large park near the airport. There’s a lake with some large fish, which become visible when people feed them bread (no wonder they are big!) It’s good for a stroll around, but not particularly clean or well kept.

Dinosaur Park (El Harti park in Gueliz)

We went there on a rainy day. There’s a gazebo in the middle, where we took shelter, but on a dry day it’s somewhere kids can have fun and run around. There’s a play area with some concrete dinosaurs that are fun for children to climb up and down.  

Kawkab Jeux - Play area near Royal Tennis Club

Practically the only purpose-built kids centre in Marrakech. Fairly cheap to enter but there are charges for rides etc. There’s an ice cream shop there, too, so it is popular with locals.  

Marjane Shopping Centre

Not far (walking distance) is another play area. It's outdoors and somewhere parents offload their kids while they go shopping. It has several levels, bouncy bits and bobs, soft balls for throwing and little machines for propelling the balls. 

Racing through the streets

In safe areas and away from traffic, we had races from one landmark to another, like lamppost to lamppost. This kept Zenchai active when we were out and about. Sometimes we’d be walking along and he’d go sprinting past, challenging one of us to catch him. It’s safe so long as he looks in the direction he’s running!

 Watching sunsets

Morocco has some spectacular sunsets. We’d often wait up to watch them and in Essaouira, when by the ocean, it’s a beautiful time.