Abrams Family World Travel

World Travel: Our Favourites - Three Years On

AT the end of our first year of travel, we posted a blog about our favourite spots - places, restaurants, beaches, parks and hotels, locations we’ve travelled to (including before our journey began) and have no trouble recommending. Now that over three years have passed since we started our adventure, we thought it would be a good time for an update.

Places

1. Vancouver, Canada: This city on North America's west coast offers a bit of everything. It ticked a lot of boxes for us. Nearby there's snow and beach for starters. There's an excellent public transport system, a fantastic range of organic/healthy produce, lots to do and see socially, the people are friendly, there's a large alternative schooling community, it's relatively safe and, for Canada, the weather is on the mild side. The only downside was the cost of property and renting. Otherwise, we really loved it - a lot!

2. Napier, New Zealand: Known as the 'Art Deco Capital of the World', this town on the north island is incredibly pretty. There's ocean, stunning surrounding mountains, hiking trails, wonderful rivers, clean parks, loads to do and see, little, if any, traffic, clean air and not lacking anything that we'd want in a big city.

3. Kukljica, Croatia: This little village on the island of Ugljan, across the water by ferry from Zadar, is a magical place for us. It's where I spent much of my childhood during the hot summer months. The Adriatic Sea is gorgeously salty and blue. The village has charm and lots of beautiful, though mostly rocky, bathing spots. It's wonderful during the hot season, but can be harshly cold in the winter.

4. Edinburgh, Scotland: Nice for walking, plenty to see, close to the coast, variety of restaurants, compact.

5. Lisbon, Portugal: Amazing architecture, lovely climate, great squares, economical and efficient public transport.

 

Beaches

1. Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica: Long stretches of sand without a person in sight or litter, stunning sunsets and perfect sea temperatures

2. Whale’s Tail, Costa Rica: Set in a National Park, with impressive caves you can walk through, great sand and warm seas

3. Los Frailes, Ecuador: Clear water, secluded, perfect waves, clean sand, sea temperature consistently good. All it’s missing is some shelter from the scorching sun and somewhere for refreshments (make sure you bring your own!)

4. Englishman’s Bay, Tobago: Long, intimate stretch of beautiful sandy beach with palm trees and clear green water, just where you’d imagine Robinson Crusoe making his base. There’s a shop and café on site also (not built by Crusoe, by the way).

5. Piracanga, Bahia, Brazil: We stayed here for more than 10 months in 2011. We lived practically on the doorstep of miles of vacant sandy beach. The ocean here, while often quite strong, was nearly always the perfect temperature and the sand ideal although we did have to lookout for troublesome little flees. www.piracanga.com

 

Restaurants

1. Napfenyes Etterem, Budapest: So good we ate there every day on our short stay, sometimes twice in a day. Great menu, nice staff. Almost too many delightful dishes, making our choice so much tougher (hence the reason we kept coming back) Rózsa u 39, District VII, Budapest 1077 +36-1-3135555. http://www.napfenyesetterem.hu/

2. Pure Food & Wine, Manhattan, New York: Somewhat pricey, but worth it, if only for the scrumptious desserts. Formal vegan restaurant with raw options. Jamie can't wait to get back there. www.oneluckyduck.com 54 Irving Place New York, NY 10003-2314 Tel: (212) 477-1010

3. Terra, Lisbon, Portugal: Fabulous buffet spread when we visited over seven years ago. Food is fresh and the ginger juice, though laced with sugar, so refreshing. www.restauranteterra.pt Príncipe Real, Rua da Palmeira 15, 1200-311 LISBOA, Portugal Tel: 213 421 407

4. Tiestos, Cuenca, Ecuador: Delicious food delivered in a large tagine (tiesto). The chef can make almost whatever you like and uses his ingredients so perfectly. A hit every time. Juan Jaramillo 7-34, City Centre, Cuenca, Ecuador

5. Buenos Aires Verde, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Outstanding organic vegetarian nosh, always beautifully presented, fresh and nutritious. Plenty of vegan and raw vegan options. Lovely setting, relaxed atmosphere and genuine staff. There is a menu in English. Try the salads, pizza, deserts and smoothies. Reasonably priced as well, especially when compared to most organic raw food/vegetarian restaurants. Gorriti 5657, Buenos Aires. http://www.bsasverde.com/index_en.html. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-0.30am.

 

Parks

1. KL City Park, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: Bang on the doorstep of the Petronas Towers and an enormous shopping centre is a large fountain which backs on to a great park. Whether it's jogging, walking, kids play or splashing in water, this park has it all. It's where I infamously smashed up my shins doing box jumps on marble columns (I slipped!) We spent countless hours there with our kids in the second-to-none children's play area. 

2. El Retiro, Madrid, Spain: Outstanding and in the city centre (near Retiro subway). Has many jogging paths and exercise areas as well as a lake with boats, cycle routes and quieter, shaded areas to sit.

3. Munich Olympic Park, Germany: By the former Olympic stadium, these manicured grounds near the centre of the city were used for the 1972 Games. The park has a lake and river and is perfect for running, cycling, rollerblading or just strolling.

4. Central Park, New York: At the tip of Manhattan, the park has something for everyone in any season, Great for walking, running, playing sports, rollerblading or just to pass some time.

5. Bosques de Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina: We stayed just a few blocks from this park. I went running there a lot (it can get busy) and Zenchai and I hired bicycles. We also went there for days out in the sun, just to play about on the grass. It's a huge park with beautiful gardens and monuments as well as a lake in the middle where you can rent paddleboats to calmly take in the scenery and relax. 

 

Sites/Experiences

1. Iguazu Falls, Argentina: Truly breathtaking, immense natural wonder on the Brazilian and Argentine border. Well worth the ridiculously long bus journey from Buenos Aires and wait for the lashing rain to subside.

2. Milford Sounds, New Zealand: Spectacular scenery on the South Island, visions I can't imagine you'd find anywhere else all in one place - mountains, lakes, hills...every corner turned delivered something special.

3. Blue Mountains, Sydney, Australia: Down Under's answer to the Grand Canyon. Impressive views, walks and cable rides.

4. El Zapato/Cajon Dam, Capilla Del Monte, Argentina: This site took us by surprise. We were on a walk, looking for the dam and stumbled upon an immense mountainscape that looked like something from 'The Land Of The Giants'.

5. Superclassico Football - River Plate v Boca Juniors: A truly memorable occasion for any footy fan - the biggest rivalry in the Argentine league. Whether it's at the River Plate Stadium, where the 1978 World Cup final took place, or Boca's smaller, but more cauldron-like ground, this is an unmissable fixture, more so for the bristling atmosphere than the football. 

 

Hotels/Hostals

1. Villa de las Aves, Uvita, Costa Rica: Fabulous two-floor house-type buildings with private jacuzzi, kitchens and a communal pool set in grounds surrounded by trees, animals and birds. With delightful owners, too - from Australia and UK, this is a spectacular place within reach of Costa Rica's great beaches. http://www.villasdelasaves.com/

2. Bahia Principe Tulum, Playa del Carmen, Mexico: All-inclusive resort hotel close to crystal clear sea water and private white sandy beaches.

3. Mandala, Puerto Lopez, Ecuador: Immaculately decorated – has so much to offer, like a library, games room, restaurant, gardens and music room. http://www.hosteriamandala.info/

4. Hip Hotel, Maastricht, Holland: Super sleek, funky one-time apartments converted into themed hotel rooms at affordable prices. There’s secure parking also, but at a fee. http://www.st-martenslane.com/

5. Intercontinental, Chicago airport: Comfortable, tasteful and sheek. 5300 North River Road, Rosemont. Tel: (847) 544-5300

 

Children's Activities

1. Parkour, Vancouver: Of all the activities we have introduced Zenchai to, this was the best. He couldn't get enough. What kid wouldn't want to run, tumble, climb, crash, jump and generally have heaps of fun exploring movement? http://www.originsparkour.com/

2. Wall Climbing, Kuala Lumpur: We took Zenchai along to the largest indoor climbing facility in Asia - and it is huge. It's all supervised and, while a little daunting, children get the chance to scale some enormous walls and grow in confidence. 

3. River Play, Piracanga, Brazil: During our stint at an eco village, we lived close to a river, which was perfect for children. Zenchai learned both to kayak and swim here in addition to spending countless hours just playing.

4. Children's Museum, Buenos Aires: Although the cost of entry wasn't low, it was worth it. Children got to role play and dress up to their heart's content. Zenchai used to beg me to take him here. 

5. Waterfall, Chiang Mai, Thailand: This northern Thai city is surrounded by waterfalls of various sizes. We found one on a Sunday afternoon and the kids loved it so much we couldn't tear them away. 

Mornington Peninsula: Community At Last

THE sound of children playing was Zenchai's wake-up call. Usually painfully slow to get dressed after rising, Zenchai, like Superman going into a telephone box, would bounce out of bed, rip off his pyjamas and throw on his play gear. Then he unzipped the tent and was off.

Often we wouldn't see him for hours - though we could nearly always hear him. The kids in the campground would ride their bikes and scooters endlessly, in and out of puddles, around the toilet area where the ground was flat and along the trail path. There was no concern for traffic. Children of all ages playing freely in the streets - isn't that what childhood should be like? The cars drove slowly and carefully and the kids learned to stop and allow them to pass.

Mostly, visiting families would arrive on the weekends and leave before the work week started again. That felt strange to us. One minute the campsite was deserted and then crammed and then deserted again.

Zenchai continually had to readjust. He made some good friends and had great fun doing what young boys and children do. There was hardly any need for parental policing - just lots of kids playing happily together. Kobra, as she does, just fitted in where she could and wanted to and smiled at everyone. She loved having all the children around.

We had a community and met some great people - all so friendly and welcoming. We shared food, time, stories, experiences and played cricket, using a chair as our wickets. The children joined in, too. It was great fun.

We all headed to the beach one roasting day when the temperature, freakishly for spring, nudged 40 degrees. It was so hot Jamie had to take her chair into the bay to stay cool. 

But in Melbourne the weather never remains the same for long. Soon the winds, rains and cooler climates rolled in. The sun poked its head out from time to time.

This camping experience really grew on us. My cousin came down from Melbourne and we hung out with her children. We took some family bike rides along the beach front after dinner together. We found another fine playground with ramps and Zenchai got to practice new stunts. 

We took some excursions in the local area, heading up Albert's Seat and beyond for some strawberry-picking and visiting (for Zenchai) a car museum (which was pretty impressive). 

It was only when the rain came and was prolonged that life became really challenging. Our dining area, with chairs, drying clothes, table and fridge, would get damp and cramped. If the rain persisted it would be hard to clean dishes or clothes or even venture far. Shoes got muddy and getting in and out of the tent proved a struggle.

One night towards the end of our stay the winds, joined by heavy rain, reached 110kmh. I thought the tent was going to take off. But it stood firm - and the gazebo, too.

Dealing with adverse conditions is all a part of the adventure and experience, I suppose. The days, which seemed long to begin with when we weren't so sure what we were doing, soon flew by at a rate of knots. 

November, December and soon it will be Christmas again. Where has the year gone?

Pai: A Slice Of Relaxation

SEVEN hundred and sixty two stomach-churning bends later and I was in Pai, a hippy town three hours north of Chiang Mai.

I'd had my fill of sitting, scrunched up and sweating, at the back of a poorly-ventilated mini-van with a driver who, if I didn't know better, had been hired from Ecuador, where they all drive like they are late for dinner.

I should have known what was ahead when I saw the sick bags conveniently placed in front of every seat. But I survived. The discomfort was all worth it and for £3 I couldn't really complain. 

Pai is set amidst trees and sloping green, lush hills. From the balcony of my hotel room, I could see the beautiful landscape and hear the river flowing. This getaway was my birthday gift from Jamie and the kids - yes, time off. The children cried when I gathered my bags and dropped them off at the bus station. But Jamie had felt bad that almost every year my birthday passes as a non-event, so she wanted to do something special. 

Of course, I'd have liked to celebrate surrounded by my family. But being in Pai alone was not only different, but just what I needed.

I'd considered visiting one of the southern islands instead, but didn't fancy jumping on a jet again so soon after our recent escapade to Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and, briefly, Bangkok. 

Full-time parenting is intense and so, too, is regular airline travel. I wanted/needed some reprieve. Pai hit the spot. It's laidback, has plenty to do (hiking, rafting, yoga, swimming, sightseeing etc), there are dozens of vegetarian/organic restaurants to lounge around in, massages to be had, a nice public pool (60baht/£1.10 entrance) and many nearby attractions.

At night there are street vendors selling tasty food and their handcrafted goods. It feels a little commercial, though in a far less intrusive way than other tourist towns I have visited.

Prices are more than reasonable, especially as I was visiting during the off-season when it's not swarming with visitors. I'd certainly consider coming again to Pai, but with the car sick-prone family (if I can get them here without them suffering on the journey) for a longer stay. The cost of renting is far less than in Chiang Mai.

The place reminds me of a cross between Vilcabamba, where we stayed in southern Ecuador, and Capilla Del Monte, the town outside of Cordoba, Argentina where we'd spent Christmas in 2010.

I didn't have enough time in three days to explore all this place has to offer (which is why I would like to return). The options are seemingly endless - adventure rafting, rock climbing, kayaking, mountain biking, zip line adventure, piranha fishing, elephant trekking, hot springs, waterfalls, Pai canyon, temples, cooking courses, markets, Muay Thai boxing, kung fu, tai chi, permaculture courses etc.

I was here to chill out, recharge my batteries and get a feel for the place or else I would have indulged more. I rented a bike (only 70b/£1.20) and cycled six undulating kilometres out of town to the hot springs for a nice soak, taking in some nice views and dodging elephant dung as I went.

The roads aren't especially busy. Most visitors tend to travel by moped and at certain times of day it can become a little congested, though, by comparison, Chiang Mai feels huge and noisy. 

After three days away, Chiang Mai was my next destination. This time I decided to take the local bus (cheaper but slower and longer). There is only one a day - leaving at noon. I got to the bus station early - and waited...and waited.

It did come, eventually. The bus was crammed. I looked for a seat. There were only a few. As I got closer, I realised someone had been sick there. I chose to give it a miss.

So I was back to square one, the mini-van. I got on the next one, grabbing the last available seat, probably the worst spot possible - right beside the driver. My long legs were squeezed into a tight space, shins pressed against the dashboard and my rucksack on my lap. I couldn't move my aching legs as I'd interefere with the driver changing gear. I held this position for the best part of three hours, desperate to get to Chiang Mai, counting down the kilometres as we travelled.

Oh how relieved I was to see the bus terminal in Chiang Mai and Jamie and the kids parked up, waiting. But like most rough journeys home, you feel like you need another break. 

 

 

London: Bringing Books To Life

IT felt kind of strange playing the tourist in my own home city. But for some time now, beginning in Brazil, we’d been reading to Zenchai books about London, so as to keep him in touch with his roots.

So it seemed only appropriate to bring to life for him the London Eye, Buckingham Palace, Trafalgar Square, Big Ben etc.

First, though, we had to visit the Thai embassy in Queen’s Gate (for our next adventure – more to come) and then we proceeded to the London Eye, getting off outside the Houses of Parliament at Westminster tube station, and walking across the bridge.

It was busy, of course (as I imagine it always is), but the queuing/purchasing process was surprisingly swift and efficient, even if the tickets (£28 for Zenchai and I) weren’t exactly cheap (but what is in London?)

The day was somewhat clear (intermittent rain) and we could see from the Eye as far as Wembley Stadium on one side. Zenchai really enjoyed the 30-minute journey, pointing to the different buildings and making observations about what he could see going on.

From the Eye we plotted our route to Buckingham Palace on foot. So we crossed the river again, hung a right, only for Zenchai to ask if he could ride in a London taxi. So I had him hail one down. We then took a short trip to Trafalgar Square, where he wanted to climb on the lions (which were a bit too large) beneath Nelson’s Column.

We’d read a book in which the lions had come to life and I think Zenchai really believed that if he mounted one it would take him for a ride, too.

Finally, he accepted it wasn’t going to happen and we headed on foot down the Mall to Buckingham Palace, Zenchai asking with excitement if the flag would be raised and the Queen at home.

When we got there, Zenchai was as fascinated by the guards and their marching as he was the cars in the Queen’s car park (presumably belonging to her staff). I heard him use an analogy later in the evening when talking to my father, telling him “he [whoever he was referring to] is as still as a guard at Buckingham Palace.”

From Buckingham Palace it was time to head home, via St James Park tube, first passing the Guard’s Museum, which was closed, but Zenchai didn’t pass up the opportunity to eye up a tank sitting inside the gates (which were open).

It wasn’t a cheap day, but we had fun and it was educational. Zenchai continually asked questions and later we discovered the answers.

Although I’d lived most of my life in London, I’d never really taken a day out like this to properly see the sights.

Wales: Start Of A Love Affair?

WE spent our Christmas in Brecon, Wales, looking after a beautiful cottage in the country. It could be the beginning of a love affair.

We’d all like to return one day, not just to Brecon, but Wales in general. Fabulous scenery, friendly people and plenty to do, our 10-day stint flew by. Even a visit to Cardiff during the Christmas melee proved no hassle.

But around where we were based it was far more relaxed. Country lanes, rolling hills, snow-peaked mountains and sheep dotted everywhere, Wales has a slower pace of life to what we’ve been used to in London.

Two visits we particularly enjoyed were to Hay-on-Wye, a quaint market town on the English border known for its many (40-plus) second-hand bookshops and festivals, and Raglan Castle, just off the A-40 in Monmouthshire.

Raglan Castle, which dates back to between the 15th and 17th centuries, is the impressive, large remains of a once-solid fortress where you can still enter the dungeons and go up towers.

Entry to the castle – through a souvenir shop - is fairly inexpensive (£3.50 for adults or £10.10 for families), though your kids will undoubtedly be hankering you to buy some of the strategically-placed memorabilia and toys on the way out. Tel: 01291 690228 for opening times (the castle is open year-round) and more details.

For a day out, especially with children, it's a fun and interesting place to explore and the region has so much more that we wanted to see, but failed to find the time.

Something tells me we'll be heading back one day, even if it's not soon.

Weybridge: Mercedes Benz World Of Fun

MY son, as your probably know if you read my blogs and this site often, is nuts about cars. I mean seriously nuts. He talks about cars endlessly. He plays all days with cars. He pretends he's a car. Get the picture?

And if you also have either a son – or daughter – mad about cars, take him or her to Mercedes Benz World in Weybridge, Surrey. And don't wait! They will love it.

Entry is free and children can have endless fun, which is almost literally true because on the four occasions I have been there with Zenchai it’s been a tough job getting him to leave.

Zenchai just loves going in and out of cars, popping the boot, putting on the hazard lights, feeling the steering wheel and pretending he’s driving. Zenchai’s latest fantasy is having a car dealership, so he goes around pretending he owns all the cars and is showing me around.

For my five-year-old it’s like being in heaven. There are all the new Mercedes models, from Smart cars to open-top sports cars to people carriers. There are also vintage cars (usually only for looking at) and Formula Ones. On one occasion when we went to MBW Lewis Hamilton was there.The cars are on three levels in a huge, slick building. There is also a shop (by the entrance so you get dragged in on the way out) with toy cars and various Mercedes merchandise, most of which is on the expensive side. But Zenchai loves looking around - dreaming of what could be his. The staff, always friendly and helpful, don't seem to mind. Just be sure your children are not holding keys or any sharp objects!

However, sampling the real cars is only the beginning of the MBW experience. Just recently MBW has added an indoor race track with small vehicles just for children. It's called 'Little Learners'. The cost of a drive is £5. It’s open only on weekends and during school holidays, so Zenchai missed out on the day I recently took him. Kids can even drive the real cars on a track - if they are tall enough (1.5m). They don't need a licence and will be accompanied by a pro giving them guidance and tips (cost £45 for 30 minutes). When I mentioned this to Zenchai, he seemed genuinely excited about growing taller. Of course, I then used the "might be good to eat all your food and get plenty of sleep to help you grow" trick.

For adults there is plenty to see and do also. There is a cafe and posh restaurant, but in terms of experiences MBW offers various driving packages which could make for superb Christmas gifts, though they don’t come cheap. Prices vary from £30 for 15 minutes as a passenger in a 4x4 for an off-road spin with a professional driver to £600 for half a day behind the wheel of a 6.3 litre V8 SLS AMG 570hp (top speed 197mph).

It's an amazing place for car enthusiasts - I've not seen anything like it. And if what I have described is not enough, nearby is the Brooklands Museum of motoring and aviation.

Opening times for MBW are 10am-6pm seven days a week. Tel: 0870 400 4000.

 

 

Liverpool: Visiting A Footballing Mecca

ALMOST every dad who has a son will probably admit he’d like his child to share his passion. But in my case, I’m not sure Zenchai is too fussed about football. He's curious, but not exactly bursting with interest, which is okay. Cars, thus far, have been his first love and possibly always will be.

Yet when I decided to visit the stadium of my team, Liverpool Football Club, I gave Zenchai the option of coming along and, without bursting with enthusiasm like I’d said let’s go to Mercedes Benz World, he opted to come along.

So, wearing our Liverpool shirts (Zenchai had on his full kit), we drove the hour-or-so up the M6 and M62 from Huddersfield for what was, for me, a unique experience. How else can you sit in the changing room and dugout, walk through the players’ tunnel, stand by the pitch, go into the press room, see where the old boot room used to be and touch the famous Liverpool badge, just as the players do on the way out before a match?

Included on our tour of the stadium was also a ticket to enter the museum, where there are trophies, shirts, boots, programmes, medals, balls and all sorts of other artifacts from Liverpool’s glorious past (emphasis on the past as they haven’t won anything recently).

I expected there to be just a handful of people on the tour, especially as they take place almost every day on the hour, but there had to be around 60 people – from Britain and abroad - on the day Zenchai (who was by far the youngest) and I went.

A guide talked us through the stadium, telling stories along the way – of how the boot room was created by legendary former manager Bill Shankly (pic of his statue above) and how and why it was demolished; how the Kop, the largest unobscured football terrace in Britain, came to receive its name; why the dressing room floor is worth more than Andy Carroll; how the club anthem ‘You’ll Never Walk Alone’ came to be and so on.

After the tour, you can visit the shop, which is vast, or even the club restaurant, where you get a discount on food with a stadium tour purchase.

You are advised to book in advance for the stadium tour on the club website - www.Liverpoolfc.tv – which is what I did, but there were people turning up and paying on the day, often at short notice.

Parking was free in the Centenary Stand car park, but the whole package cost £24 (£19 for adults and £5 for under-16s).

Although it was cold, windy and wet the day we went, it was an enjoyable experience, but perhaps lost a little on Zenchai. He asked questions and seemed curious. He had hoped to see King Kenny walking around. But when I asked him at the end what he liked the most, he told me, “Seeing the [toy] Liverpool bus in the shop.”

Similarly, while the guide was explaining a story about how the Kop used to hold 36,000 people (three times what it does now) and people would often collapse and be passed over the top down to the front to receive medical assistance, Zenchai excitedly interrupted me to say, “Look, daddy, I see a car badge [pointing to one of the advertising boards in the stadium].”

And when the tour was all but done, Zenchai turned to me and said, “I had a question, but she [the tour guide] has finished.”

I told him there was still a chance. So we found her and he asked, “Where do the players park their cars?”

She told us and how goalkeeper Pepe Reina always has the same parking spot, but she couldn’t tell Zenchai what he really wanted to know – what cars each player drove.

What can I say? He is obsessed. But whether your boy – or girl – likes football or not, it’s a worthwhile excursion. Definitely so if you support Liverpool FC.

If I were to go again, I’d opt for the Legends Tour, which is admittedly more expensive (£35 for adults, £18 for under-16s) but gives you the option of choosing from a list of former stars (John Aldridge, Ian Callaghan, who still holds the record for having played more times for Liverpool than any other player, Jimmy Case, David Fairclough, David Johnson, Alan Kennedy, Jan Molby, Phil Neal) to take you around the magnificent club.

*For more details about the Liverpool FC tour tel: 0151 260 6677.

Boipeba: Conch Shell Fun And Fascination

For Zenchai the highlight of our stay in Boipeba was him finding conch shells. He was so proud of himself and, after a visit to a bone museum in Boipeba town, Zenchai became fascinated by how you could hear the ocean when holding the shell to your ear.

He even invented a Conch shell-catcher (picture below with what looks like a long branch). He used it to scoop conch shells out of the water and reckoned it could even detect conch shells.

When Zenchai scooped out of the water his first conch shell, a large white one, the look on his face was like he had been handed the keys to a bright red Ferrari and been told it's his to keep. Although Zenchai reached down into the shallow water to retrieve it, in his mind he had dived deeply. He felt so proud.

Zenchai didn't stop talking about it the rest of the day.

Zenchai said, "When I next get invited to a birthday party I'm going to strap all my conch shells to my shorts with cello tape so everyone can hear the sound of the ocean and wonder where it's coming from." That did make me laugh, even if Z was being serious.

Always coming up with ideas, Zenchai said he would open a sand-dollar museum and put all his conch shells in there.

¨Conch shells are more valuable to me than gold,¨he said.

Later that evening and holding a conch shell to each ear, Zenchai said he was ¨listening to his ipod.¨

Zenchai told me that when you listen to the conch shell it tells you the conversation you had on the beach.

The truth is that the shell doesn't actually hold the sound of the ocean, but telling Zenchai that would be like blowing the lid on the Santa Claus myth.

What it does is resonate the sounds you hear around you. Because of its shape, each shell produces different sounds. Also, these shells are made from a build-up of calcium carbonate (which also makes hard water), usually reaching its maximum size after about three years.

When we got to Itacare (on the way home), I noticed Zenchai's bag of shells moving on top of our wardrobe. We took them out of the room, placed all the shells on the table and waited until something happened. Sure enough, some legs poked out of one of the shells. Zenchai stepped back, feeling afraid.

We did the right thing, though, by returning it to the ocean, though a long way from its original home.

 

Argentina: Giant Land Of Friendliness, Beauty And Yerba Mate

We knew Argentina was large, but didn’t realise just how until we tried to plan getting around it.

Although it doesn’t seem so, Argentina (population 40 million) is the same size as India in terms of square miles. It’s the eighth largest country in the world.

Our intention was to see it all in three months. Having now had some experience of the country, that idea sounds so ridiculous. We only really scratched the surface. To do it properly, I’d like to go back, hire a campervan and drive around for 12 months. But the visitor’s visa is only valid for three months per entry, so you’d have to leave the country at various stages to make it possible.

We missed out on Patagonia (where there is also a Lake District), Mendoza (the wine country – although we’re not drinkers), Salta, the Los Glacieres National Park, Bariloche and Calafate, the multi-coloured mountains of Jujuy, not to mention the Valdes Peninsula and the wildlife sanctuary in Puerto Madryn.

Although getting around is relatively easy, it is quite expensive, at least when compared with other South American countries like, say, Ecuador. We took an overnight coach to Cordoba (the second largest city) from Buenos Aires, which was fabulous. Booking was easy. You can do it online with Omnilineas or, as we did, go direct to their offices (Maipu 459 on the 10th floor).

I visited alone the amazing Iguazu Falls, which was a 16-hour coach journey from the capital, but a truly spectacular sight. 

Together, though, we explored a few areas around Cordoba, like the hippy town of San Marcos Sierras, where we felt reunited with nature, and Capilla Del Monte, where we spent Christmas and New Year.

But we soon decided that constantly hopping from one place to another while Jamie was pregnant and Zenchai only four-and-a-half wasn’t what we had in mind. So we picked a few locations and pitched our tent, so to speak, for longer periods. That way we felt more settled and like we were living rather than visiting or touring.

Buenos Aires was enjoyable, a real walking city and easy to navigate. Each block is about 100m and the roads run on a grid system, much like in New York. But breathing in the pollution and cigarette smoke (Argentines are big smokers) almost wherever we walked where it was reasonably populated had us eager to move on in the end.

It’s sophisticated by South American standards, very European in its atmosphere and culture. The people are very helpful and friendly. Argentines, I noticed, love public displays of affection. They are big on tattoos also.

Buenos Aires is a city with tree-lined streets, cobbled roads, pastry and grocery shops on practically every corner, graffiti on walls and abandoned classic cars scattered everywhere (much to Zenchai’s delight). It’s home to the tango and yerba mate.

Cordoba, where we went after Capilla Del Monte, is much smaller than the capital: compact by comparison and cleaner (hardly any dog mess on the pavements). There is less to do and see, however. But it’s a shopper’s paradise (I can’t recall being in a place where there are so many shops – and all selling, more or less, the same items).

We rented apartments where we could in Argentina. This was the cheapest option, but only for stays of two weeks or more. We tried first online, but the process was tediously slow. With the bulk of rent required up front (in cash), be prepared to get your money out. And be warned that the banks in Argentina charge for ATM withdrawals and place a limit on the amount you can withdraw. (Talking of banks, be sure not to leave your need for cash until a Sunday afternoon as most banks are dry by then. If you’re desperate, go to an ATM inside a large petrol station).

After getting tired of waiting for rental agencies to reply to emails when we first arrived in Buenos Aires, we tried knocking on doors and this produced almost instant results. We’d recommend you find the area you like and then approach real estate people in the vicinity.

On our return to Buenos Aires in January, we successfully secured an apartment online with www.4rentargentina.com. Again, we had to pay in cash.

Palermo was our favourite neighbourhood. Home to the zoo, Botanical and Japanese Gardens, Palermo is large. If you want to be near the park – or are a jogger* - make sure you search in that area or opt for Recoleta, where there is also the extraordinary Cementerio de la Recoleta. San Telmo, an old district, also has lots to offer and is probably the place to be for museums, antique and old book shops, jewelry and bars. There is also a big food market.

When we were on the road or having short stays, we opted for hostels. Some are cheap and others not so (we happened to get to dusty San Marcos Sierras and Capilla del Monte during peak season). Buenos Aires has a wide selection, but do your homework and read reviews (trip advisor is a good starting point) before booking.

We preferred the hostels we found in Cordoba to Buenos Aires. Hostels are fine if you want a cheap space and to prepare your own meals, but it’s sometimes not ideal for families with small children (although in Cordoba it wasn’t a problem – try Babilonia Hostel and Pewman Che Hostel).

Many hostels can be noisy and sharing bathrooms has its drawbacks when you have a son who’s desperate for the toilet and a pregnant wife. Also, in Argentina the culture is to stay out late – even for kids – so taking an early night often comes at a price.

The positive side to hostels (for families) is that they offer a chance to meet other travellers. And for Zenchai this sometimes included children, which was nice.

Zenchai handled the travelling side well. We looked into internal air flights for ease of getting around, but it was too expensive, particularly for non-residents. As for food, buying from a grocer, as we tended to, was affordable. I could fill a large bag with fruit and veg, to last us several days, for about £15. The same would cost at least double back in England. One evening in Cordoba, I even bought enough veg to make dinner for three and it came to the equivalent of £1.

The variety is better for fruits than vegetables. It didn’t compare in Buenos Aires and Cordoba with what we could get our hands on in Capilla Del Monte - a small town which you can easily cover on foot in a few hours, probably less if you are doing just the centre. Getting there, we took a bus from Cordoba. It takes a lot longer (about four hours) if you are on a bus that stops in every town. The direct one (Sarmiento is the operator) takes around an hour.

Long-distance train networks aren’t reliable in Argentina, but the subway (Subte) in Buenos Aires is excellent and very cheap at 1.10 pesos (20p) per person. It runs from 6.30am-11pm and trains come frequently, even on weekends. To ride the buses is the same cost.

Clothes and shoes etc are expensive, so we didn’t do any shopping of that kind (especially as we’re always trying to travel lightly), except for Zenchai’s Argentina top which I found at a fair price in one of the many shops in the capital city selling football kits.

Eating out could be costly also. It depended where you went. We had some cheap and good meals for under £10 and others, though not so frequently, that came to nearly £30. The food is decent, though unexceptional, at least by vegan standards (I can’t comment on steak houses etc).

In Cordoba, we found several lunchtime vegetarian options which were fine. Eating out at night was more difficult, because of Zenchai’s sleeping times and how Argentine’s prefer to feast late. But, to be honest, we generally found dining out rather disappointing wherever we went last year, regardless of the country. When we look back on our favourite meals, it’s nearly always been those home-cooked and/or with family. You can’t beat it!

Overall, though, we really enjoyed our Argentina experience. It surpassed all expectations. We had a memorable time. I felt really at home and safe in the places we visited and with the people. When travelling with a family, that’s definitely an important factor to consider.

AbramsFamilyWorldTravel Tip: A Note for runners - I wouldn't recommend jogging or running through the city, particularly after 8am. There's too much traffic and pollution and too many traffic lights, not to mention the dog poop on the pavements. Head for the parks. One of the best is Parque 3 de Febrero, also known as The House of Sports. There you can run around 1km path that circles a boating lake. It's safe and you'll be joined by cyclists, roller-bladers and walkers. You can run on the tarmac, grass or gravel. 

San Marcos Sierras: El Arbol & The Secret Life of Bees

I began doing research on the small town of San Marcos Sierras when the idea of going there was planted into my awareness. Information was fairly scarce to come by, but one thing that really piqued my interest was that the area was renowned for its honey - some even calling it the honey capital. So when I discovered that there was a bee education centre there I knew it would be on our 'to go to' list.

Just 2km from the town plaza is El Arbol - El Mundo De Las Abejas (The Tree - The World Of Bees). At the main entrance you are greeted with a sign "Toque y Pase", which means to ring the bell and walk through the tree-lined path.

We arrived late afternoon around 5pm and the sun and heat of the day was still surprisingly scorching. But as we ducked through the very dry terrain, we noticed tree after tree had wooden placards stating the name of the tree, what the honey from the tree is medicinally used for and even ways in which to ingest or use the honey.

We had made it as far as the Mistol tree when Claudio, our host, chief beekeeper and owner, welcomed us. Immediately it was noticeable that Claudio was passionate about bees.

This became even more apparent as he spoke to us - his Spanish sometimes would reach an almost incomprehensible pace. However, much of what he shared with us went beyond language and into our hearts.

His centre is named El Arbol after the Algarroba tree, the original tree. The indigenous people of Argentina revered the Algarroba tree for its many uses, both medicinally and for the food by-products like flour and honey. Algarroba is in the same family as carob and mesquite, but uniquely different. Like carob, it 'fruits' as a yellow-greenish pod. The honey from the Algorroba tree is medium dark in colour with a distinct sweet taste. 

It had only occurred to me in that moment (of course it made total sense, too) that bees can eat the nectar from flowering trees to make honey. I know it must seem very elementary, but in my mind I had only imagined bees eating the nectar from garden flowers or shrubs. And it also clicked into place why bees are so integral to almond tree pollination, which in the US has become somewhat of a crisis situation. Now with that very big piece of information in place the world of bees became even more mesmerising.

Claudio described in intricate detail how the bees mate, communicate and live under the rule of one queen. Not only are so many crops dependant on bees working their pollination magic, but the bees are also totally self-sufficient, taking nothing from nature. All those beautiful hexagonal honeycomb structures they create. They even prefer not to use supplies given to them for building their homes.

At El Arbol there are 600 beekeeping boxes. The reason Claudio uses the wooden crates for the bees is what he calls a beekeeping secret. He believes that all bees will work to keep their body temperatures to an even 34C. If their body temperatures fall below this they have to work very hard to bring the temperature to equilibrium by doing what he described as a dance or shake of the body and wings. When the bees are in this state they produce less honey. By giving the bees the crates for their home it allows them to be more efficient and, of course, the microclimate of San Marcos is very agreeable, too.

In the centre itself there is a glass-paned window attached to a bee box, which allowed us to see inside their home. Claudio showed us the bees that had just come back into the hive. The bees had pollen stuck to their legs and were doing a particular flutter. This movement communicated to the other bees where the nectar could be found. Bees often use a specific infinity pattern of movement, too.

I had to ask Claudio about whether he, too, was suffering from disappearing and dying bees like in the US. With a big smile he nodded no. But when I prodded him more about this phenomena, he suggested there are many variables affecting the bees in the US. One of them is when beekeepers take out all the honey for themselves and replace it with sugar or glucose. He went on to explain that honey is not only a complete food for humans, but it IS the complete food for bees. A beekeeper should only take half and leave the other half for the bees. Another modern beekeeping practice is to take all the propolis that the bees produce and replace it with an antibiotic. Propolis is an antibiotic created and used by the bees. The bees are intelligent enough to know the difference in both of these cases.

 

This was followed by the all important question: "How did he get into beekeeping?" If a man's eyes could light-up then his surely did. He replied with a childish laugh, "By accident. You know like wife is accident. Then children are accident." Claudio placed a lot of emphasis on the significance of being in tune with the bees. His beekeeping style is such that when he handles the bees he doesn't wear gloves or a special suit, only a mask over his face. This sensitivity to the bees has formed a unique bond with them. He has even taught his three children how to care for and handle bees in a nurturing way. Who could disagree with a man that had been successfully caring for bees for 25 years!

Turning away from our glimpse into the secret life of bees we gathered at Claudio's colourful and bountiful tasting station. There was row upon row of differently shaded honeys. Some where almost black like molasses, while others were the more familiar light amber. He offered us spoonful after spoonful all while describing the tone, depth and medicinal use. My tongue was on sweet overload by the last spoonful!

In the end we purchased a rather large jar of Mistol honey. The Mistol tree flowers in November and then develops a small, round red berry that traditionally used to be picked and eaten by the indigenous children. Like the fruit, the honey is dark in hue with red highlights. Mistol honey is often used here in the winter months to sooth throat ailments.

I'm not sure how many varieties of honey Claudio has on offer. There is enough variety to satisfy any honey lover and maybe even convert a non-honey lover into one.

When it was time to depart none of us felt ready. There was something very special about Claudio and the work he is doing. We had the feeling we could spend many hours listening and learning from him. I even mentioned to Claude that he should take up beekeeping, but he dismissed that idea. However, maybe in some distant or near future I will study under a beekeeper, simply just to learn more about the ancient wisdom bees offer.

AbramsFamilyWorldTravel Tip:

If you take a remis to El Arbol arrange for them to pick you 1.5 - 2 hours later so you fully delight in the bees and honey.

El Arbol Address: Las Gramillas, San Marcos Sierras, Cordoba, Argentina, Tel: 03549-15433088, Email: [email protected], Web: www.mieleselarbol.com.ar, Beekeeper: Claudio Jaroszewski, Hours: 9am - 7pm.