Abrams Family World Travel

Our First 12 months On The Road: Natural Travel Remedies

Whenever you travel, you expose yourself to health risks. Each country has its own strand of germs and frequently sitting on aeroplanes alone can make you vulnerable to bugs.

For children the risks are probably higher. Youngsters under five haven’t fully developed their immune systems.

Yet for most of 2010 we, as a family, were relatively illness-free. We picked up parasites while in Ecuador – and got rid of them – and all of us had colds after we arrived in Vilcabamba (Ecuador) last March and Buenos Aires in October.

It all seemed rather ironic at the time that we were walking around with noses streaming in the so-called Valley of Longevity like we had opened a mucus factory, yet were breathing in clean mountain air and surrounded by beautiful scenery.

But it’s possible also that whatever bugs got into our systems had done so in Quito, where it is polluted and the traffic heavy. Colds are not a sign of poor health, but an indication your immune system is functioning and eliminating invaders.

For colds we don’t take anything and let it run its course. For anything else we take homoeopathic remedies. We now travel with three kits from Helios: the nursery kit; travellers kit; pregnancy and birth kit. This provides a remedy for almost anything.

But for the parasites Jamie and I took MMS (Miracle Mineral Supplement) and it did the trick. Zenchai took a herbal parasite-cleanser for children. So we’ve been pretty fortunate.

Our first line of defence is always taking good care of ourselves – getting enough exercise, sleep, good food, sunshine and fresh air. We eat what we consider a healthy vegan diet – plenty of fruits, vegetables, greens, nuts and pulses. We try whenever possible to eat organically. Neither of us smokes or drinks alcohol either.

We try to maintain a high level of hygiene. We wash all our food before consuming it and cut the skin off if we know it's not organic. But sometimes it’s not enough and when eating out or, in some cases, from street stalls, you can never be certain how the food has been treated or prepared. For cases of diarrhoea or stomach pain, we always carry with us charcoal tablets. Also in our arsenal we have oil of oregano capsules, which act as natural antibiotics (as does eating garlic), plus probiotics for us and Zenchai (probiotics maintain healthy gut flora).

Possibly the worst health issue we had to deal with was an infection Zenchai had to his penis while in Puerto Lopez, Ecuador. The poor guy’s little Black and Decker was swollen like a balloon and he was in pain.

Naturally worried, we took him to a local doctor (this was the first time he had visited a doctor since his six-week baby check-up) and she prescribed him a steriod cream and antibiotics with the order that he not go into the ocean for a fortnight (which was the entire time we were on the coast).

Without being dismissive of the diagnosis, Jamie and I questioned whether to administer the prescription as we are naturally cautious regarding the over-use of antibiotics and steroids. Instead, we opted first for the natural remedy colloidal silver gel which we applied throughout the day and night. This had immediate results.

The penis episode was worrying and so, too, was a bout of vomiting and diarrhoea he had following a long bus trip from Canoa to Quito at the end of May. For several days he couldn't keep food down (we think it was almost certainly the parasites). But we stuck it out, made sure he was properly hydrated and, sure enough, he got well enough for us to travel back to London. In those moments, though, you do get concerned it could be something more serious.

Of the three of us, Zenchai also suffered most from mosquito attacks, especially in Ecuador. For whatever reason, they loved the taste of his blood and he was covered in bites at one stage even though we applied a citronella-based repellent. To help ease the discomfort, we used lavender essential oil and/or calendula homeopathic cream.

In Croatia, to a lesser degree, they got him again (although his bite count was reduced by the use of Mosquiten patches (a natural German product with the main ingredient being green tomatoes).

As we prepare to head to Brazil, where the climate is tropical, we are not only armed with mosquito nets, but also Neem, an essential oil more powerful than citronella and which works well with the latter for added protection.

Let's hope that does the trick.

World Travel: My Top 10 Memories Of 2010

1. Mornings in Kukljica, Croatia

Waking up, seeing the sun rise over a calm Adriatic Sea and taking a plunge with the water all to myself.

2. River Plate v Boca Juniors

The ultimate club football experience. A genuine grudge match in Argentina’s national stadium (in Buenos Aires) with colours, noises and celebrations I’ve never seen before.

3. Driving through Croatia

We spent two months there this summer. Although I’d spent many months during my childhood in my motherland, for some reason the true beauty escaped me – until we drove there and home this summer. It is truly the most stunning country in Europe (for me anyway).

4. Meeting new people and seeing family members

One of the real joys of travelling is the interesting people you meet and friends you make. I met some fascinating characters. But another huge pleasure was spending time with family, from Croatia to France to Florida to Buenos Aires, and introducing them to my family.

5. Views of Quito

Being the highest capital city in the world has some advantages. Although Quito is a vast concrete jungle, there are some superb vantage points. I loved discovering them to take in the spectacular sights.

6. Rock-climbing with Zenchai in Argentina

With temperatures in the 90s, Zenchai and I went into the rocks at Paseo de Mamagotes close to Capilla Del Monte. Wearing flip-flops, Zenchai wasn’t ideally equipped. Some of the rocks were slippery and when he slid early on, he wanted to turn back. But I convinced him to continue, pretending we were on a pirate treasure hunt, and he persevered. He loved it and so did I.

7. Introduction to Hillbilly golf

At a family gathering for Jamie’s mother in Toledo, Ohio in August, a bizarre game was unveiled. It involved what looked like mini-rugby posts but with an added bar on the top. The only other equipment required were six golf balls with rope going through them. The posts are placed about 20ft apart and teams toss the balls by the rope, aiming to hook them on to the posts. The higher the ball sticks, the better the score. Couldn’t believe how much fun it was.

8. Eating ripe, locally-grown watermelons

You may have gathered my favourite fruit is watermelon. It’s not only fantastic for hydrating and full of goodness, but so tasty when chilled. We had our best watermelons in Croatia and Argentina.

9. Hiking Cerro Uritorco

In Capilla Del Monte, Argentina, where we spent Christmas and New Year, one mountain overlooks the region. It's an impressive beast and hiking it one morning after Christmas was unforgettable not only for the views, but also the challenge and the stunning sense of tranquility and connecting with nature. 

10. Weekend in Icacos, Trinidad

What a special place, so peaceful, colourful and spectacularly photographic. Lake, beach, sunshine and, above all else, a sense of calm and silence I didn’t experience or find anywhere else on the island.

Ecuador: The Highs and Lows

OUR FIVE HIGHLIGHTS

1.) Los Frailes Beach

Inside a national park a short ride north from Puerto Lopez, this was a hidden treasure. The beach was clean, the water blue and warm, the waves fun and the sand pristine.

It’s a deserted spot away from all the tourists and a fabulous place to spend several hours. Bring your own food (there’s no catering on site) and plenty of sun block. Cost of admission: $12 per adult.

2.) Tiestos restaurant, Cuenca

We loved this place so much we just kept going back. The owner and chef, Juan Carlos, is a warm, charming man who’s attention to detail and desire to please his customers is unmistakable.

The food is outstanding and plentiful. And for a fairly upscale restaurant, the prices were reasonable also. Don’t visit Cuenca without sampling this place.

3.) Thermal Pools of Papallacta

There isn’t a more relaxing way to escape from Quito. The journey by bus from the capital is about an hour and then hop in a taxi to this fantastic, heavenly collection of hot, warm and cold plunge pools.

A great place for families, romantic couples or just to visit by yourself. Price: $7 for adults and $3 for children.

4.) Centre of the earth & museum

You can’t go to Quito without visiting the centre of the earth. The monument, in fact, sits about 100 yards from the exact spot. But given it was discovered by the French many years ago, before Sat Nav, the error was an acceptable one.

There’s a museum inside the monument and a small village selling all sorts of goods, plus restaurants. Less than half a mile away is another museum – outdoors, interactive and more fun. Be sure to visit. Entrance fee $3 for adults at the interactive museum and $2 for the monument museum.

5.) Climbing the Quito Basilica

From the top, which is quite a climb, you get some of the most spectacular views of the city. Quito is many things, but the site of all the buildings surrounded by mountains is quite staggering. It costs $2 for adults to enter, but is worth it.

FIVE LOWLIGHTS

1.) Cuenca air pollution

The wheezing, choking buses of this city spoiled our time there. The city centre wasn’t so big and blue buses were everywhere. Avoiding the choking black puffs of smoke was almost impossible. We’d heard so many good reviews of Cuenca that our expectations were admittedly high. But even in heaven, this level of pollution would make us want to bolt.

2.) Not getting to the Galapagos Islands

Prices for tours to the Galapagos are extraordinarily steep. We couldn’t justify the expense, even if it meant coming all this way and missing some of the most stunning islands in the world.

But nearly everyone we met who had been there had told us the cost was worth it – what you see is truly unique and unforgettable. Maybe next time…

3.) Dirty beaches with stinging jelly fish in Puerto Lopez

We’d hoped to find long stretches of sandy beaches and a beautiful ocean. The beaches are long and sandy, but there was too much litter and the lingering smell of fish in the air was unavoidable along the beachfront.

Watch out in the water for stinging jelly fish. They seem to turn up every other day.

4.) Restaurant at the volcanic crater

The hotel at El Crater, with amazing views from the rooms, was fabulous, if pricey. But in the nearby restaurant the food quality didn’t match the outstanding and immaculate décor. For the price (it wasn’t cheap), we expected better.

5.) El Puente Apartment/hotel, Cuenca

Not somewhere we’d recommend, even if the daily cost of stay was cheaper than any hostals. Rooms are large and you get a kitchen, but the customer service was, for want of a better word, bordering on abysmal.

Journey To The Centre Of The Earth

NOT many children can claim to have spent their fourth birthday inside a volcano and at the centre of the earth. But that’s what Zenchai did.
 

We stayed at the El Crater Hotel, perched on the edge of a volcano near Pululahua. The views on a clear day are fantastic. The walk into the base of the crater is easy enough going downhill, but arduous coming up, especially because of the high altitude (we didn’t do it, but saw many people huffing and puffing their way up).

Getting to the hotel was relatively easy – a short cab ride – from the Mitad del Mundo (Centre of the Earth), where we’d visited the monument to mark the spot (even though it’s about 100 metres from the precise location) and two museums – one inside the monument and another a short walk down the road.

The outdoor, interactive museum is more interesting and fun, especially to children. We made a day of it.

The best way to get to Mitad Del Mundo by public transport is to take a taxi to the Condado Shopping Mall. From there buses depart frequently for the Centre of the Earth. It takes about half an hour.

While it was sunny most of the day, the clouds moved in later. Weather can change dramatically. By the time we reached our hotel, fog was so dense we couldn’t see the building from about 20 feet!

I reckon we were the only residents. The hotel and restaurant next door was deserted. Even though the hotel is pricey, even by Western standards, this was a special occasion. We splashed out a bit, probably for the first time since we arrived in Ecuador.

 The restaurant, while beautiful and elegant, was a letdown. The food didn’t quite hit the mark and was quite expensive. However, it was an experience well worth having.

Although we woke up the next morning with the fog not having shifted and thinking we were never going to get to see the inside of the crater, within hours it disappeared and everywhere was bathed in sunshine.

Interestingly, as we were by ourselves, Zenchai didn’t get many presents. We’d given him a small plastic jeep – admittedly cheep – that he’d had his eyes on in Cuenca. But he was more than happy.

It just goes to show that it’s not the cost or size of a present that matters.

Papallacta: Spectacular Thermal Paradise

AN hour or so out of Quito by bus (40 miles approx), heading past Cumbaya in the valleys, you can find the fabulous thermal baths of Papallacta. 

Spectacular scenery surrounds the mainly straight road. By Ecuadorian standards, the journey is relatively smooth. 

It’s well worth making the effort for this city escape. Buses will stop at an intersection in Papallacta where you can either walk the 2.75km to the baths or, for $2, take a taxi. 

It just happened to pour with rain the moment we arrived. Practically as soon as we'd huddled under a bus shelter, a cab pulled up and we completed the final leg of the journey by taxi. 

The weather soon changed and the sun emerged. On a clear day be sure to take and use sun-block. 

The baths can be located just beyond the hotel/spa resort Termas de Papallacta. Cost of entry is $7 per adult and $3 for a child. 

Although the waters vary in temperature from ice cold to piping hot, it’s a place where children as well as adults can have lots of fun. There is a dedicated children’s area and many of the pools are shallow. Zenchai really enjoyed it. 

Bathing in these pools have considerable health and skin benefits. Views from the outdoor pools are sensational. You’ll find yourself surrounded by stunning Andes mountains. 

There is a restaurant on site, as well as changing rooms, toilet facilities and great outdoor hot showers that you could easily stand under all day long. 

To return to Quito, either walk down to the main highway or have the hotel call you a cab. Then hail the first bus for Quito that passes. The fare is about $3-$4. Be sure to tell the driver where you want to get off. 

Most buses will stop wherever you choose, but be firm. Despite our request to pull over, our driver kept going until we practically ordered him to stop the bus, which, by then, was on a major freeway. We then had little choice but to walk back along the dangerous road to the intersection we were after.

That didn't spoil a great day, though. We'd recommend it for couples, individuals and families of all ages. 

Watch Your Pockets

We’d been warned about pickpockets in Quito. Even when aware of the dangers, though, we still had money stolen. The problem was boarding a tram so full we could hardly move. We jumped off after a few stops because we could hardly breathe. When we reached our destination by cab, we noticed money missing. Someone had cleverly taken a bundle of dollars. Luckily, they left the credit card in the same pocket!

 

Abrams Family Travel Tip: Lesson learned: don’t use the tram when it’s busy, especially as cabs are cheap.