Abrams Family World Travel

World Travel: Wherever We Lay Our Hats...

HERE'S a question we get a lot (and for obvious reasons): "So, where's home?"

We've been travelling so long that we don't really know. Often we say, "wherever we are". And that's the truth. Home is where we (as a family) are. We don't own a house and Kobra, for instance, hasn't lived anywhere for more than six months. 

This year, travelling mostly through Asia before getting to Australia and then New Zealand, we have had to relocate 35 times!

We've stayed in hostels, houses, concrete apartment complexes without views, boats, tents, campervans, resorts, hotels, homestays and with family, strangers and friends. 

It's been an interesting year, starting in India, finishing in New Zealand, taking in Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia and Australia in between. We have met many amazing people, forged some strong friendships, faced many challenges and learned some incredible lessons.

So we thought we'd make the rest of this blog somewhat visual, showing the places we have stayed, and thanking you all for following and sharing in our journey. 

First port of call, Varkala Beach in India

Preparing for sun and beach on our balcony

  In search of a better deal, we find a new apartment

  And then, for a great price, a resort with a pool

  An excellent hostel in Alleppey, recommended by Lonely Planet

Followed by a night on the backwaters

  In Fort Cochin, the night Liverpool win the Carling Cup

Stopping over in Kuala Lumpur for a few nights

From one hotel to another - in Chiang Mai, Thailand

The Greenhill apartments in Chiangers - and lobby transport

Penang beach living in Batu Ferringgi, but it doesn't work out for us there

We head by coach to Kuala Lumpur for a spot of apartment-sitting in Bangsar

Renting nine floors up in Chan So Lin, Kuala Lumpur

In Subang Jaya to take care of cats

House sharing off the beaten track as we return to Chiang Mai

Birthday celebrations in a seventh-floor Chiang Mai apartment

A weekend in Singapore, where we got ripped off buying durian

A stopover in scorching Phuket on our way to Bali


 

A couple of nights by a main road and with noisy neighbours in Ubud

Renting a two-story home in Ubud for £10 a day

House-sitting and caring for a dog, rabbits and a chicken in the stunning Blue Mountains outside Sydney

 A townhouse in the Sydney suburbs

 Campervanning our way to Melbourne from Sydney

Magical sunset in Bonbeach, a stone's throw from where we stayed

  Camping by the beach in Mornington, near Melbourne 

Pretty cool, family-friendly hostel in Parnell, Auckland

  A family home in Auckland, caring for a dog and two cats

 

Pai: A Slice Of Relaxation

SEVEN hundred and sixty two stomach-churning bends later and I was in Pai, a hippy town three hours north of Chiang Mai.

I'd had my fill of sitting, scrunched up and sweating, at the back of a poorly-ventilated mini-van with a driver who, if I didn't know better, had been hired from Ecuador, where they all drive like they are late for dinner.

I should have known what was ahead when I saw the sick bags conveniently placed in front of every seat. But I survived. The discomfort was all worth it and for £3 I couldn't really complain. 

Pai is set amidst trees and sloping green, lush hills. From the balcony of my hotel room, I could see the beautiful landscape and hear the river flowing. This getaway was my birthday gift from Jamie and the kids - yes, time off. The children cried when I gathered my bags and dropped them off at the bus station. But Jamie had felt bad that almost every year my birthday passes as a non-event, so she wanted to do something special. 

Of course, I'd have liked to celebrate surrounded by my family. But being in Pai alone was not only different, but just what I needed.

I'd considered visiting one of the southern islands instead, but didn't fancy jumping on a jet again so soon after our recent escapade to Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and, briefly, Bangkok. 

Full-time parenting is intense and so, too, is regular airline travel. I wanted/needed some reprieve. Pai hit the spot. It's laidback, has plenty to do (hiking, rafting, yoga, swimming, sightseeing etc), there are dozens of vegetarian/organic restaurants to lounge around in, massages to be had, a nice public pool (60baht/£1.10 entrance) and many nearby attractions.

At night there are street vendors selling tasty food and their handcrafted goods. It feels a little commercial, though in a far less intrusive way than other tourist towns I have visited.

Prices are more than reasonable, especially as I was visiting during the off-season when it's not swarming with visitors. I'd certainly consider coming again to Pai, but with the car sick-prone family (if I can get them here without them suffering on the journey) for a longer stay. The cost of renting is far less than in Chiang Mai.

The place reminds me of a cross between Vilcabamba, where we stayed in southern Ecuador, and Capilla Del Monte, the town outside of Cordoba, Argentina where we'd spent Christmas in 2010.

I didn't have enough time in three days to explore all this place has to offer (which is why I would like to return). The options are seemingly endless - adventure rafting, rock climbing, kayaking, mountain biking, zip line adventure, piranha fishing, elephant trekking, hot springs, waterfalls, Pai canyon, temples, cooking courses, markets, Muay Thai boxing, kung fu, tai chi, permaculture courses etc.

I was here to chill out, recharge my batteries and get a feel for the place or else I would have indulged more. I rented a bike (only 70b/£1.20) and cycled six undulating kilometres out of town to the hot springs for a nice soak, taking in some nice views and dodging elephant dung as I went.

The roads aren't especially busy. Most visitors tend to travel by moped and at certain times of day it can become a little congested, though, by comparison, Chiang Mai feels huge and noisy. 

After three days away, Chiang Mai was my next destination. This time I decided to take the local bus (cheaper but slower and longer). There is only one a day - leaving at noon. I got to the bus station early - and waited...and waited.

It did come, eventually. The bus was crammed. I looked for a seat. There were only a few. As I got closer, I realised someone had been sick there. I chose to give it a miss.

So I was back to square one, the mini-van. I got on the next one, grabbing the last available seat, probably the worst spot possible - right beside the driver. My long legs were squeezed into a tight space, shins pressed against the dashboard and my rucksack on my lap. I couldn't move my aching legs as I'd interefere with the driver changing gear. I held this position for the best part of three hours, desperate to get to Chiang Mai, counting down the kilometres as we travelled.

Oh how relieved I was to see the bus terminal in Chiang Mai and Jamie and the kids parked up, waiting. But like most rough journeys home, you feel like you need another break. 

 

 

Crossfit: A Family Affair

I DISCOVERED Crossfit, a high-intensity core strength and conditioning training programme, nearly a year ago. I wish I'd found it sooner.

Despite having been sporty my entire life, nothing has hit the mark for me quite like Crossfit and now I'm a certified Level 1 instructor I want to share the passion I have for sport/staying fit/strong with others. 

It's not for everyone, of course. One reason is because it's seriously hard. Workouts are comprised of weight-lifting, gymnastics and metabolic conditioning (running, cycling, rowing etc). Often sessions include a combination of the three modalities.

The workouts aren't usually too long and they don't need to be. Anaerobic workouts have been proven to have as good as if not a greater effect on aerobic capacity than aerobic training. There's also less wear and tear and little, if any, loss of strength.

I train between five and six times a week. Most of my workouts range between eight-20 minutes in duration, though some are longer, up to 45 minutes. I'm in the gym about an hour, because I warm up thoroughly and then warm down and stretch afterwards. However, some of my warm-ups now are comparable with the workouts I used to do.

I love the intensity and the competition of Crossfit. And I have developed a tremendous admiration for gymnasts and weight-lifters. 

Everyone in the gym is strongly encouraged to have goals. They can be target weights to lift or skills to learn, like the muscle-up, which involves pulling yourself up on the Olympic rings and then performing a tricep dip at the top. That's one I'm still working on.

Often at the end of a training session, I focus on skills. Having never been particularly gymnastic, I love trying to learn moves that have always seemed impossible. But more important is mastering the basics of lifting, pressing and squatting.

At Crossfit everyone usually trains together and there's a lot of help from fellow athletes in terms of motivation and advice. That's far more enjoyable and encouraging than the endless hours I used to spend in globo gyms where you barely even acknowledge others training around you and routines were just that - routine.

I was surprised, though, when Jamie accepted my invitation to try Crossfit. Jamie is a long-time yoga teacher. Though many yoga poses are extremely tough, she admits to not liking intensive work, the type that comes with pushing oneself to the limit and perhaps a hard grunt and groan in the process. 

We joke with each other that she never sweats - even in Thailand (though this has now been disproved). And I often recount the time we once worked out at a YMCA gym in Toledo, Ohio and how she got grumpy whenever I tried to push her to force out more reps.

Now she's at Crossfit Chiang Mai and her name is posted up on the scoreboard each day with her time (for the workout) or weight (for how much she has lifted) or both (if it's that type of workout day). Usually, I go in the morning (as I'm an early bird) and Jamie in the afternoon, so one of us can take care of the children.

I'm proud of her for stepping out of the comfort zone and trying something that is tough and demands hard work. In fact, I admire anyone who sticks with Crossfit. It's so easy to seek something less challenging. Crossfit's definition is "Constantly varied functional movement at high intensity". 

You get reminded frequently that intensity produces results (and power) and week in and week out you are asked to perform strict push-ups, pull-ups, chin-ups, (everyone's favourite) burpees, air squats and then throw in back squats, overhead squats, front squats, push presses, power cleans, snatches, deadlifts, kettlebell swings etc and then some 100m sprints or 5km runs or 1km shuttles. It is "constantly varied" and these are all movements which you use or may end up using on a daily basis. Going to the toilet, after all, involves a squat. Lifting something heavy off the ground would require a deadlift and overhead a press etc. 

Weight-lifting will strengthen bones and gymnastics aid body control, flexibility and balance. Crossfit workouts target also co-ordination, agility, speed, strength, cardio respiratory endurance, power and stamina. 

You won't get bored, but you will get fitter. And often you have no clue what's on the agenda until you walk into the gym by when there's no turning back. 

Don't fear that you will have to lift or push the same as everyone else and be left feeling humiliated or inadequate. The gyms are not at all packed with supermen and superwomen to make you look and feel inferior. Remember that intensity is relative and so workouts are tailored or scaled for safety and to ensure everyone works to a capacity that produces results. 

All the talk of Crossfit in our home has, obviously, got Zenchai interested, too. He sees that I go to the gym almost every day. So on a visit to Singapore recently he had his first session. I took him to Reebok Crossfit Enduro run by Juria Maree, a top coach from South Africa. 

She normally takes a kids Crossfit class every Saturday, but wasn't around the weekend we were there to conduct a class. But she arranged for another coach to come in and hand Zenchai his initiation.

I booked Zenchai in for 9am. Together we marched down there from our hotel. I tried not to say much - in case he got cold feet. But he was fired up (once he woke up). He is so proud of the fact he has a great squat and can stay in that position almost endlessly (like most children can). 

When we arrived at the gym, coach Ubin Khoo introduced himself and took over. He explained clearly to Zenchai what they were going to do and, most importantly, he made it sound like fun.

Ubin had to think on his feet, however. Zenchai's concentration and enthusiasm waned a few times and Ubin had to reignite his interest. He did so by having Zenchai design a course using various gym props and then driving around it on an ab roller. Ubin then challenged Zenchai to do laps and go round even quicker. Then he added medicine balls and Zenchai had to push them out of the way as he drove the roller and then they had a game of skittles using cones. Improvisation whilst maintaining safety and fun was the key. Zenchai, being a car-lover, revelled in it. He turned himself into a vehicle. 

After 30 minutes Zenchai was sweating and so, too, was Ubin. Zenchai felt proud of himself and Ubin was satisfied he had found a way to get Zenchai to lift the medicine balls, which was his target. 

I am not sure when or even if Zenchai will go again. There's no Crossfit for kids in Chiang Mai yet. But we're trying to teach him, by example, about the importance of exercise and a healthy diet. Children need to regularly go outdoors and play and let their imagination run riot.

I was always an active child who played sports, but so many children nowadays, especially with technology games so prevalent and addictive, aren't motivated to go outside and stretch their legs and work their lungs. 

Of course, I can't make Zenchai interested in Crossfit or anything else for that matter. But if he sees his mother and father doing something and feeling better for it, I feel more confident he's going to recognise the value and invest (with time and effort) in his well-being. 

 

 

Asia: Five Days, Four Cities, Three Flights, Two Children, An Overpriced Durian and No Almond Butter!

WE were all relieved to get back to our apartment in Chiang Mai after four days away and time spent in Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and Bangkok.

Zenchai was going stir crazy on the aeroplane back to Thailand. We had a five-hour layover in Bangkok after our Air Asia flight had been cancelled. Tired, hungry and cooped up, Zenchai gave us a testing experience. Kobra slept most of the way. Aeroplanes just aren't designed for young children.

We stopped in Kuala Lumpur the first night as we couldn't get a connecting flight that day on to Singapore.

KL airport is a long way from the city centre. But we elected to use the train instead of taxi or bus or coach (as we'd done in the past). It's far cheaper, more efficient and comfortable. The trains are fast and slick, like in Germany. It made travelling a far more pleasant experience.

Kobra attracted a lot of attention from travellers, many of whom had their picture taken with her like she was some kind of celebrity. It bordered on the ridiculous. 

Zenchai looked on, unamused. He doesn't like the attention he gets in Asia - all the touching without first asking drives him crazy, often quite literally. He is also protective of his little sister.

Anyhow, by the time we arrived in KL city centre, checked-in to our hotel and dropped off our luggage, it was time to head out again. We had a family appointment - a play date for Zenchai with his second cousin at a playcentre in Bangsar Village shopping mall. He had been looking forward to it for ages. Z and his cousin ran around for hours. Money well spent. Zenchai also received a belated birthday gift - a Monster Truck book, which he loved. Afterwards we went for a Banana Leaf dinner after which it was time to head back to the hotel (by train) and then get up in the morning for our mid-day flight to Singapore.

Getting to KL airport was quicker than heading into the city when we arrived. On the train we met a nice English/French-Moroccan family with a young boy. Zenchai wasn't too sociable at first, but later warmed up a bit. 

At KL airport we checked in, grabbed a bite to eat at our favourite veggie Indian restaurant and then waited for our plane to depart. Zenchai amused himself by driving around luggage trollies.

I had been to Singapore before, but it was the first time for Jamie and the kids. As we were about to land, the captain made an interesting announcement, warning against bringing into the country knuckle-dusters, swords, guns and numb chucks! What sort of people go to Singapore, I wondered?

Then, of course, he reminded everyone about the stiff penalty for drug-smuggling - mandatory death sentence. They may as well have added raw almond butter to the list (more on that later).

I had an exam to sit in Singapore, but squeezing in any last-minute revision wasn't easy with a family in tow. Hours after arriving and nursing a deltoid injury, I headed to Reebok Crossfit Enduro for a workout. Some 90 power cleans later my shoulders somehow felt better. Jamie and the kids amused themselves at a park nearby and then in the gym while they waited. Zenchai got creative with all the equipment.

All hungry, we went in search of food. We didn't find eating in Singapore very easy. It's all Chinese, mostly fried, high on meat and starchy carbs and laced with msg. We settled for some veggie soup. Zenchai had a juice and some rice. Then it was off to bed - late - after a long walk in the still-ultra humid conditions.

The next morning I had to wake up Zenchai from a deep sleep. He had a training appointment at 9am at Crossfit. We caught a train and walked the rest of the way. He did some running around and lifting. On the way home, he felt proud - and didn't stop talking about it.

We were all hungry by the time we met up with Jamie and Kobra. But then we made our worst purchase of the weekend. Seeking out durian, I bought a 2kgs one, noticing a sign that said $10 per kilo. I asked "how much?" and the reply came "$14". But it turned out to be "$40" and not "14". By then I had already eaten it. That's a whopping £20 for a durian!! 

To make matters worse, Jamie didn't even like it. 

If it took Jamie and I hours to get over the shock, at least the kids weren't fussed. We decided to seek out a play centre. The hotel gave us directions - by train, bus and then on foot.

We found it - eventually. First, though, we stopped at an upscale restaurant called The Living Cafe that was right up Jamie's street - lots of delicious raw food desserts, but at near-jaw-dropping prices.

We each had a slice and then headed off into the heat on foot with only approximate directions. Of course, half a mile down the road Zenchai decided he needed the toilet (No. 2) and there was nowhere to go and no cab to be found to take us quickly where we wanted to go.

In spotless Singapore, we had to find some bushes and be as discreet as possible! Anyone with children knows these things happen. 

Onwards we marched, sweat dripping and Jamie and I taking turns carrying Kobra. We passed a doggie day care resort only for Zenchai to remark that Kobra needed to go there for some brushing up - because her hair "was messy like a dog's". 

Finally, we tracked down Fidgets Play Centre at Turf City, a huge shopping complex. Although it wasn't cheap, it was worth it. We hardly saw Zenchai, who in quick time was running around and playing with other kids. Kobra enjoyed it as well. Parents usually take a seat, grab a coffee, read a magazine and let the kids run wild. There are TV cameras to help you locate or observe your child. It was, for want of a better word, mayhem. But this was a Saturday afternoon.

The highlight for Zenchai was getting his face painted - as The Joker! The other children gathered round as Zenchai underwent his makeover. He said he really liked the woman painting him, because she reminded him of his grandmother in England.

"She spoke exactly like grandmere and was the same size," he said. 

But for someone not wanting attention, Zenchai sure attracted a lot of glances, particularly on the train on the way back to our hotel and a shopping mall at Clementi Station, where we stopped for dinner. As soon as he returned to the hotel, he had me wipe off the paint. 

The next morning for breakfast we set off to Little India, where Zenchai polished off a Masala Dosai. He'd missed them since leaving Kuala Lumpur. We found a place which offered quality food for excellent prices.

On the way back to our hotel on foot we passed a giant supermarket - the type that sold absolutely everything. If the durian was our purchasing disaster of the weekend, buying some clippers to cut Zenchai's hair was the greatest deal. For the equivalent of a few haircuts (£7.50), I came out of the store with a fine electrical appliance.

I left Jamie and the kids at a playground while I returned to the hotel to prepare for my test. I met up with them later and we headed off into the Arab quarter for some dinner. More disappointment: no falafel; moussaka that was plain and didn't have the advertised chick peas; ran out of pita bread; inflated prices etc. 

The night wasn't over. We went to bed, but at 2.30am while everyone was fast asleep, I tiptoed around the room to get dressed and went around the corner from our hotel to watch England's exit on penalties (again) from the Euro 2012 against Italy. 

It was around 5am when I returned to sleep. Singapore was still pretty busy. I took Zenchai out for some coconut water and flesh for breakfast and then strolled with the kids around the block while Jamie did the packing.

Little did I know I was wondering through a red light district. Prostitutes were all over the pavement and they swarmed over Kobra, pulling at her little cheeks and trying to take her away from me for a cuddle. Quickly, I got her out of there. Zenchai reacted angrily when they tried approaching him. Too much attention for the kids. It was time to head out of town.

Jamie had finished packing. We walked to the train station and then headed to the airport, let the children play for a while at the many excellent kids' facilities, got some food and checked in.

We flew to Bangkok airport, which was busy, and had time to kill. Although the clouds gathering outside looked stormy, I suggested we head into the sprawling city by train for some food. First we checked in and it was laughable to see the line of passengers at the next kiosk heading to Chennai, India - all with flat screen TVs!

It took about 40 minutes in and 40 minutes out by train. It was raining so hard that we couldn't really go anywhere. We purchased some food (but could find nowhere to eat it) and turned around. By then the trains were packed. That was our experience of Bangkok. 

By the time we reached the airport again it was nearly time to board. We scoffed down our food and headed through security, which is where the raw almond butter (mentioned earlier) comes in.

We'd bought a nice, big jar in Kuala Lumpur, because we can't find it in Chiang Mai. But security in Singapore deemed it a liquid and said we couldn't bring it through.

We'd carried it in our hand luggage from Kuala Lumpur, so thought nothing of doing the same from Singapore to Chiang Mai.

I could see the fury on Jamie's face when the security man, doing his job, of course, wouldn't back down.

"Don't mess with my almond butter!" told the story of my wife's painful expression. But he took it from us and, without waiting for us to go out of sight, dropped it into a bin. Ouch!!

"Do you realise how expensive that is?" said Jamie. 

That was the final straw to what was becoming an arduous journey. It was late when the plane touched down in Chiang Mai. Zenchai had shuffled in his seat like he'd dropped a jar of ants down his shorts. We were relieved to get off the plane. 

Our car was in the car park. We located it (eventually), paid 1,000 baht (£20) and headed home. 

As we drove, listening to Cat Stevens for about the 1,000th time, I remarked how great it was to live so close to the airport - about 10 minutes. Getting to the apartment was effortless, which is more than can be said for the rest of our adventure. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

World Travel: Is Anywhere Cheap Anymore?

THE question is: is there anywhere in the world that is really 'cheap' to live anymore? And, perhaps more importantly, would you want to live there if there is?

People often refer to Asia as very affordable and there are pockets of places where your money goes really far.

In southern India, for instance, we lived quite cheaply. Our hotel apartment (above) was roughly £5 per day and this was in an upscale resort. That's because in India you can bargain for almost everything.

But elsewhere we haven't found the costs to be equally inexpensive. And I think it's important, too, to make the distinction between travelling solo and as a family. If I were travelling by myself, living in hostels and eating out only for one and at McDonalds (which I wouldn't go near except to use the toilets) or the MSG-laden food hawkers, my daily costs would be reduced substantially. But multiply everything by four if you have a family like mine. You can't really stay in dorms when you have children. 

We are now in Kuala Lumpur, which, when compared to London, is relatively cheap, but not when pitted against other Asian cities we have been to (with the exception of Singapore).

We pay £34 a day for a one-bedroom serviced apartment with a makeshift kitchen. In the developed western world that is a great deal. But in Thailand (Chiang Mai) we were paying about £16 per night. You could find even cheaper deals in CM and if you were by yourself or a smaller family unit - a studio apartment rents for about £10 per night. 

Kuala Lumpur, at least, offers an excellent transport system. Almost each day I commute by train and bus for 90 minutes (each way) to attend my Crossfit class in Petaling Jaya. My transport costs are a mere £2!

We're not convinced either whether eating in saves money when you can, for instance, go to an Indian restaurant for masala dosai and feed the family well for £2.50. 

We don't really go to upscale restaurants. The most expensive it gets for us is when we search out organic restaurants, but even then, when compared to the UK, the prices are far from crazy. The most we've paid for a family meal in KL is £12. 

Back in the UK, we spent on average £113 per week on food when we stayed in Brecon (for Christmas) and £139 whilst in Huddersfield, where we ate in most of the time. Compare that with the average of £114 we spent per week mostly eating out in India. 

So keeping costs down really depends where you are. For us, eating in in England was only marginally more expensive than eating out in India, albeit in a fairly touristy part of India. 

In Thailand the street food is cheap, but (unfortunately) laced with MSG and sugar, so we ended up eating in better restaurants and for more. We ate out most of the time, but also bought lots of fruit and coconuts. You'd be surprised how the costs add up. On average we'd spend about £120 per week on food in Thailand. But Malaysia has been off the chart. 

Our shopping bill at supermarkets in KL can be hefty. As an alternative, I've tried local markets, like Pudu, where you can buy all sorts of vegetables (though the fruit selection is disappointing). I filled a shopping bag for about £8 (mostly veg) and a similar shop in England would have set me back at least £20. 

But supermarkets offer organic produce, which is important to us. Most of the fruits and vegetables in the outdoor markets in KL appear to have been imported from countries like China, where they spray crops heavily.

Although I can get a kilo of fresh lychee for £2 and buy T-shirts for £2, too, a cup of camomile tea at Starbucks in a good neighbourhood will set you back £1.50. On average we have spent over £150 per week in KL. 

Prices for the same product can vary also. For instance, fresh coconuts can go for anything from between 75p to £1.50. It's not outrageous, but more expensive than we paid in Thailand and Brazil (although coconuts in Thailand are far superior in taste).

A whole 1kg durian costs around £2 in KL, a 5.5litre water bottle just over £1 and taxis are good value (though be sure to flag down the red or yellow ones and not the blue taxis, which are exectutive. Tip: make sure the meter is running). 

The cost of going out in KL is hit and miss. Some attractions, like the KLCC play park, are free. Others, like Aquaria, cost me £16 for Zenchai and I. In London, at the Aquarium, it's nearly double and in Florida I found attractions for kids to be really pricey. 

We're heading back to Chiang Mai in Thailand next month, though, because renting an apartment there is cheaper and easier than in Kuala Lumpur. We tried really hard, but couldn't find a way to stay in KL affordably. 

As I wrote in a previous blog, renting in KL is made difficult - almost impossible - for those wishing to stay less than 12 months. 

We couldn't find any reasonable houses or condos, fully furnished and in a safe, clean area near a train station (otherwise you really need a car) for less than £400 per month. Realistically, we were looking at shelling out at least £500. But the majority of apartments go for £500 per month upwards and you can get two/three bedroom places for that amount. In nice areas most people are paying closer to £800-£1,000. 

In Thailand we might end up spending around £300-£400 for lodging, but we'd get even more for our money - greater space and perhaps the use of a pool and gym.

But the downside in Chiang Mai is that there is no metro system - getting around town you have to rely on taxis and rickshaws or hire a moped, which isn't what I want to do with young children (a moped would cost about £300 per month). The traffic is thick and the roads not all built for walking down. We spent about £70 on transport during the month we lived in Chiang Mai. Car rentals are about £400 per month. 

There are always the southern islands of Thailand to visit. But we hear from friends based there that costs are inflated also - mostly because of the rise of tourists willing to pay big bucks and the owners holding out until the off-season.

Of course, there are places to go that won't cost much - even for families, but there's a reason for that: either it's incredibly remote or there's something wrong with it, like ultra polluted or crime-infested. Not everyone wants to take their family to a place like that. 

It's interesting, really, because both Jamie and I have in recent weeks reflected more on our time last year in Brazil, which on the whole is a dearer place to live than in most of Asia. But we found in Piracanga, Bahia, an eco-village by the ocean where it was impossible to be sucked in by consumerism and our outgoings were generally low, that the quality of life (sunshine, beach, river, wholefood diet, living more off the land) was much higher. 

We're not saying we want to return to Brazil or, specifically Piracanga, but it's an example of how getting the balance right can be tough and it often depends on the family's needs and wants. We don't want to be somewhere too remote or basic or, for that matter, in the thick of a bustling city. 

We have been travelling now for over two years and, in terms of affordability and taking into account inflation, the cheapest countries we have visited look something like this (cheapest first): 1. Ecuador; 2. India; 3. Thailand; 4. Brazil; 5. Malaysia; 6. Croatia; 7. Argentina; 8. USA;  9. Uruguay; 10. Western Europe.

 

Singapore: Shopping Malls, Skyscrapers And Cultural Diversity

THOUGH I was in Singapore only for four days, I was impressed by what I saw and experienced. 

It is particularly clean. Everything seems to run smoothly and without much of a hint of chaos. It is, like New York, very walkable. The pavements are wide and cars even stop to let you cross the road!

The signposting is clear. It's not so big that you have to rely on public transport to get everywhere. I walked solidly for about eight hours on my first day and covered a large portion of the city.

There is a lot going on - loads of attractions - and, for a city, there are plenty of trees and green spaces. No wonder Singapore is known as 'Garden City'. I noticed government initiatives in many places encouraging the population to make their city more ecologically friendly. 

The modern architecture is pretty spectacular. With the warm, humid climate, tall skyscrapers and waterfront, downtown has a Miami feel to it (without the tackiness), but with a touch of Monte Carlo thrown in and an atmosphere that is, for want of a better word, orderly.

There's a mostly Chinese and Indian culture served by Chinatown and Little India (the best place I found for internet shops). Languages spoken are English, Mandarin, Malay and Tamil. 

Foodwise, you can get almost anything you like. Actually, you can get your hands on everything here. Singapore is shopping mall crazy. They are abundant downtown and all are stunningly large, containing the designer stores. There's a Starbucks on every corner it seems. The economy, it appears, is booming. Singapore is, according to most lists, one of the richest countries in the world.

Although goods are not as cheap as in Thailand, it doesn't cost anywhere near as much to eat out in Singapore as it does in Europe or the US - if you operate prudently. 

For a more authentic feel, you can munch at the many hawker centres where the food markets are. They are everywhere. I also went into the ethnic areas for a more genuine feel of the city and to escape the giant malls. 

Little India has restaurant after restaurant and shops selling goods at discounted prices. There is also a small arab quarter and ample choice for vegetarians/vegans if you look hard enough.

But the Singaporians like their meat. Frogs are something of a delicacy, too. Most nights and especially on weekends, the streets are full of tables and restaurants jammed with customers. TV screens in restaurants show the Premiership football live from England. 

Remnants of the former British Empire are everywhere, not least The Raffles hotel, named after Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, who turned Singapore into a busy port and the city created by Raffles remains practically the same today in layout as it was nearly 200 years ago.

Singapore is a mix of old and new and contrasting cultures. People work hard and, from what I saw, spend hard, too. 

The island (only 604sq km) is densely populated and though everything seems so clean and controlled, Singapore is not without its problems, waste disposal being one of them. Most of it being incarcerated. But the need to find alternative solutions has prompted the urgency to work with the people to improve methods of recycling.

People clearly care about their city although the cost of living here is one of the highest in all of asia (behind Japan). I didn't notice it too much, probably because I declined to shop at all the modern stores. There's definitely a cheaper way to surviving a place like this, though the heftiest costs are for accommodation and schooling, something that is more difficult for most residents to avoid.

 

 

 

 

 

Singapore: Flying Into The Future

CHANGI airport has a glimmering, expansive and futuristic feel to it that almost takes your breath away. So immaculate and space-age like, it's as if the Singaporians have thought of everything.

If there is a ever an airport to be stranded at, especially with kids, Singapore is the one.
Just so happened that I was travelling alone. But there's a play area, family zone and toys and books section, not to mention an entertainment deck and baby-care room.

For adults the list is even longer, from spas and massages to strolling through one of five gardens, taking a plunge in the rooftop swimming pool, TV lounges, business centres and 500 free internet stations.

Singapore is a busy airport with 301,711 flights in 2011 - one  every 100 seconds!

That said, Changi is so big and organised you don't feel as if you can't move and the queues were not excessive when I travelled.

On my journey out of Singapore (to Penang), I was so sweaty walking to the train station from my hotel and getting to the airport in the middle of the day that I needed to take a shower.

Luckily for everyone on my flight, Changi had the facilities. It cost S$8.50 (£4.25), but you get a towel and luxury service. If you wanted - and had the time and budget - you could throw in a massage or spend time in a jacuzzi.

Needless to say that when I arrived  at Changi from Chang Mai (which, comparatively, seemed like another world), I was spoiled for choice as to how to further my journey into the city.

My options were the airport shuttle/limousine ($45-50), car rental, taxi ($18-38), train ($1..40-$2) or bus (under $2). The exchange rate is roughly $2 for every pound.

I opted for the train. And, as I suspected would be the case, it was immaculate, efficient and cheap.

I noticed the penalty signs for smoking ($1,000) and eating or drinking ($500) and wondered whether leaving my fingerprints on the pole I was holding on to would be a violation of one kind or another.

There were even arrows on the floor as you wait to board the train, telling those getting on where to stand and those disembarking (or 'alighting' as they like to say here) where to go.

As I headed out of the airport, though, everything started to go downhill, metaphorically speaking, of course.

Lugging my heavy rucksack on my back and carrying the other over one shoulder, I emerged from the train station nearest my lodging and searched in darkness for my road.

Although it happened to run by the train stop, there was no indication of which way the numbers ran or which direction I should head. I asked a few people, but no-one seemed to know. So I took a wild guess and, in the humidity, lumbered on.

After about 10 minutes and with no hotel in sight, I took a detour to find a taxi. I stood on a busy street corner and flagged down whatever cabs came my way.

Having recently been in India, where taxi drivers will do anything for your business, I was surprised when six taxis stopped and each refused my custom, using excuses like 'I don't know where it is'.

Eventually, one driver did tell me where to go, but, bizarrely, showed no interest in driving me. I walked on another 800m, through a vibrant (mostly Chinese) restaurant area. The pavements were packed with diners, and I passed by durian stalls displaying more of these giant-sized, prickly fruits than you could possibly count.

By the time I arrived at my hotel I was so hot that I feared a local might make a citizen's arrest for me dripping my sweat all over the pavement.

I checked in to my soul-less 'room without a view' and tried taking a shower, but it didn't work (I got it going eventually the next day) and, given the lateness of the hour and my hunger levels, had a quick wash and ventured out to eat.

I settled for a couple of coconuts  (juice and flesh) for an expensive $8 and headed back for a night's rest to see what this sprawling city would bring me in the day time.