Abrams Family World Travel

World Travel: Our Favourites - Three Years On

AT the end of our first year of travel, we posted a blog about our favourite spots - places, restaurants, beaches, parks and hotels, locations we’ve travelled to (including before our journey began) and have no trouble recommending. Now that over three years have passed since we started our adventure, we thought it would be a good time for an update.

Places

1. Vancouver, Canada: This city on North America's west coast offers a bit of everything. It ticked a lot of boxes for us. Nearby there's snow and beach for starters. There's an excellent public transport system, a fantastic range of organic/healthy produce, lots to do and see socially, the people are friendly, there's a large alternative schooling community, it's relatively safe and, for Canada, the weather is on the mild side. The only downside was the cost of property and renting. Otherwise, we really loved it - a lot!

2. Napier, New Zealand: Known as the 'Art Deco Capital of the World', this town on the north island is incredibly pretty. There's ocean, stunning surrounding mountains, hiking trails, wonderful rivers, clean parks, loads to do and see, little, if any, traffic, clean air and not lacking anything that we'd want in a big city.

3. Kukljica, Croatia: This little village on the island of Ugljan, across the water by ferry from Zadar, is a magical place for us. It's where I spent much of my childhood during the hot summer months. The Adriatic Sea is gorgeously salty and blue. The village has charm and lots of beautiful, though mostly rocky, bathing spots. It's wonderful during the hot season, but can be harshly cold in the winter.

4. Edinburgh, Scotland: Nice for walking, plenty to see, close to the coast, variety of restaurants, compact.

5. Lisbon, Portugal: Amazing architecture, lovely climate, great squares, economical and efficient public transport.

 

Beaches

1. Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica: Long stretches of sand without a person in sight or litter, stunning sunsets and perfect sea temperatures

2. Whale’s Tail, Costa Rica: Set in a National Park, with impressive caves you can walk through, great sand and warm seas

3. Los Frailes, Ecuador: Clear water, secluded, perfect waves, clean sand, sea temperature consistently good. All it’s missing is some shelter from the scorching sun and somewhere for refreshments (make sure you bring your own!)

4. Englishman’s Bay, Tobago: Long, intimate stretch of beautiful sandy beach with palm trees and clear green water, just where you’d imagine Robinson Crusoe making his base. There’s a shop and café on site also (not built by Crusoe, by the way).

5. Piracanga, Bahia, Brazil: We stayed here for more than 10 months in 2011. We lived practically on the doorstep of miles of vacant sandy beach. The ocean here, while often quite strong, was nearly always the perfect temperature and the sand ideal although we did have to lookout for troublesome little flees. www.piracanga.com

 

Restaurants

1. Napfenyes Etterem, Budapest: So good we ate there every day on our short stay, sometimes twice in a day. Great menu, nice staff. Almost too many delightful dishes, making our choice so much tougher (hence the reason we kept coming back) Rózsa u 39, District VII, Budapest 1077 +36-1-3135555. http://www.napfenyesetterem.hu/

2. Pure Food & Wine, Manhattan, New York: Somewhat pricey, but worth it, if only for the scrumptious desserts. Formal vegan restaurant with raw options. Jamie can't wait to get back there. www.oneluckyduck.com 54 Irving Place New York, NY 10003-2314 Tel: (212) 477-1010

3. Terra, Lisbon, Portugal: Fabulous buffet spread when we visited over seven years ago. Food is fresh and the ginger juice, though laced with sugar, so refreshing. www.restauranteterra.pt Príncipe Real, Rua da Palmeira 15, 1200-311 LISBOA, Portugal Tel: 213 421 407

4. Tiestos, Cuenca, Ecuador: Delicious food delivered in a large tagine (tiesto). The chef can make almost whatever you like and uses his ingredients so perfectly. A hit every time. Juan Jaramillo 7-34, City Centre, Cuenca, Ecuador

5. Buenos Aires Verde, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Outstanding organic vegetarian nosh, always beautifully presented, fresh and nutritious. Plenty of vegan and raw vegan options. Lovely setting, relaxed atmosphere and genuine staff. There is a menu in English. Try the salads, pizza, deserts and smoothies. Reasonably priced as well, especially when compared to most organic raw food/vegetarian restaurants. Gorriti 5657, Buenos Aires. http://www.bsasverde.com/index_en.html. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-0.30am.

 

Parks

1. KL City Park, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: Bang on the doorstep of the Petronas Towers and an enormous shopping centre is a large fountain which backs on to a great park. Whether it's jogging, walking, kids play or splashing in water, this park has it all. It's where I infamously smashed up my shins doing box jumps on marble columns (I slipped!) We spent countless hours there with our kids in the second-to-none children's play area. 

2. El Retiro, Madrid, Spain: Outstanding and in the city centre (near Retiro subway). Has many jogging paths and exercise areas as well as a lake with boats, cycle routes and quieter, shaded areas to sit.

3. Munich Olympic Park, Germany: By the former Olympic stadium, these manicured grounds near the centre of the city were used for the 1972 Games. The park has a lake and river and is perfect for running, cycling, rollerblading or just strolling.

4. Central Park, New York: At the tip of Manhattan, the park has something for everyone in any season, Great for walking, running, playing sports, rollerblading or just to pass some time.

5. Bosques de Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina: We stayed just a few blocks from this park. I went running there a lot (it can get busy) and Zenchai and I hired bicycles. We also went there for days out in the sun, just to play about on the grass. It's a huge park with beautiful gardens and monuments as well as a lake in the middle where you can rent paddleboats to calmly take in the scenery and relax. 

 

Sites/Experiences

1. Iguazu Falls, Argentina: Truly breathtaking, immense natural wonder on the Brazilian and Argentine border. Well worth the ridiculously long bus journey from Buenos Aires and wait for the lashing rain to subside.

2. Milford Sounds, New Zealand: Spectacular scenery on the South Island, visions I can't imagine you'd find anywhere else all in one place - mountains, lakes, hills...every corner turned delivered something special.

3. Blue Mountains, Sydney, Australia: Down Under's answer to the Grand Canyon. Impressive views, walks and cable rides.

4. El Zapato/Cajon Dam, Capilla Del Monte, Argentina: This site took us by surprise. We were on a walk, looking for the dam and stumbled upon an immense mountainscape that looked like something from 'The Land Of The Giants'.

5. Superclassico Football - River Plate v Boca Juniors: A truly memorable occasion for any footy fan - the biggest rivalry in the Argentine league. Whether it's at the River Plate Stadium, where the 1978 World Cup final took place, or Boca's smaller, but more cauldron-like ground, this is an unmissable fixture, more so for the bristling atmosphere than the football. 

 

Hotels/Hostals

1. Villa de las Aves, Uvita, Costa Rica: Fabulous two-floor house-type buildings with private jacuzzi, kitchens and a communal pool set in grounds surrounded by trees, animals and birds. With delightful owners, too - from Australia and UK, this is a spectacular place within reach of Costa Rica's great beaches. http://www.villasdelasaves.com/

2. Bahia Principe Tulum, Playa del Carmen, Mexico: All-inclusive resort hotel close to crystal clear sea water and private white sandy beaches.

3. Mandala, Puerto Lopez, Ecuador: Immaculately decorated – has so much to offer, like a library, games room, restaurant, gardens and music room. http://www.hosteriamandala.info/

4. Hip Hotel, Maastricht, Holland: Super sleek, funky one-time apartments converted into themed hotel rooms at affordable prices. There’s secure parking also, but at a fee. http://www.st-martenslane.com/

5. Intercontinental, Chicago airport: Comfortable, tasteful and sheek. 5300 North River Road, Rosemont. Tel: (847) 544-5300

 

Children's Activities

1. Parkour, Vancouver: Of all the activities we have introduced Zenchai to, this was the best. He couldn't get enough. What kid wouldn't want to run, tumble, climb, crash, jump and generally have heaps of fun exploring movement? http://www.originsparkour.com/

2. Wall Climbing, Kuala Lumpur: We took Zenchai along to the largest indoor climbing facility in Asia - and it is huge. It's all supervised and, while a little daunting, children get the chance to scale some enormous walls and grow in confidence. 

3. River Play, Piracanga, Brazil: During our stint at an eco village, we lived close to a river, which was perfect for children. Zenchai learned both to kayak and swim here in addition to spending countless hours just playing.

4. Children's Museum, Buenos Aires: Although the cost of entry wasn't low, it was worth it. Children got to role play and dress up to their heart's content. Zenchai used to beg me to take him here. 

5. Waterfall, Chiang Mai, Thailand: This northern Thai city is surrounded by waterfalls of various sizes. We found one on a Sunday afternoon and the kids loved it so much we couldn't tear them away. 

World Travel: Groundhog Day

TEN pm and we were driving around Auckland when we should have been in the sky, on our way from New Zealand to Vancouver, Canada.

We had been sitting at the gate for our international flight when my name was called over the loudspeaker.

Jamie and I glanced at each other, thinking 'what could this be about?'

I was soon to find out. 

When I got to the Air New Zealand representatives, I was told we couldn't fly - because we didn't have an onward-bound ticket from Canada.

We were going to Canada for three months, everything booked, and were not sure of our next move, so left it open.

I check for small details like this before planning trips. And while it's clearly stated before entering countries like Australia and New Zealand that you need an onward-bound ticket, I didn't read anything similar for Canada. Well, apparently you do. I must have missed this one. 

So after representatives failed to help me sort it out as time approached for us to board, I was advised to go to the internet counter and book a flight. Any flight.

With time ticking, I searched the net for a good deal, but there was nothing cheap and when I finally nailed a flight (which wasn't cheap), my credit card denied the transaction. I suppose the fee was too large and it flagged up a security warning. It's great to know my credit card people are watching out for fraudsters, but it didn't help me on this occasion.

I was resigned to defeat. There wasn't enough time left. I returned to the airline counter and explained what had happened. Out came the manager, all apologetic but firm, doing her job and explaining we had to come off the flight.

"So what next?" I asked.

"You'll have to get another flight," she replied.

"You mean buy another one?" I asked.

"Possibly," she said.

This was now going from huge inconvenience to disaster. But I managed to stay calm. I accepted our fate and had to fill in landing cards, as though we had all arrived in New Zealand, in order to go through immigration and passport control to collect our luggage etc.

It took forever. Soon Jamie and the kids, all looking tired and a bit flummoxed, joined me.

We made our way back, finding it hard not to think about the prospect of doing it all again the next day. There was good news around the corner, though. It turned out we didn't have to buy new flights and that we would be put on the same flight 24 hours later, so long as we had proof of an onward-bound journey in Canada.

All of us were hungry. We finally got through to the main airport area, where we had to wait to be reunited with our bags and then sort out paperwork for the flight the next day.

Another manager came over to me to explain the situation, saying that ALL non-Canadian and non-American citizens must have onward-bound flights upon arrival in Canada. That means Kobra and I, since Zenchai has an American passport. 

Then more good news - he said the airline (Air New Zealand) would put us up in a hotel for the night and pay for the taxis etc, which was a relief given our cab meter was at NZ$84 by the time we arrived.

So we waited, snacking on apples and letting the kids run around the busy airport, until finally we had taxi and hotel vouchers presented to us.

We loaded ourselves into a cab and set off, only for the taxi driver to end up in the wrong part of town.

Eventually, we got there - too late for any dinner. Quickly, I sent a message to the person who had offered to fetch us from Vancouver airport, hoping she'd get it in time. We then just stripped off and got into bed. What a day. 

The next morning I was on the internet checking out flights until a friend (and travel agent) helped me out. We were all set.

Slowly, we made our way through the day. I took Zenchai to a nearby park to allow him to exert some energy and work his legs in readiness for 13 hours on an airplane.

Eventually, the time came to again set off for the airport - 15 minutes away. We arrived in good time, produced our documents showing we would be leaving Canada, and headed on through to the gate once more.

It was a tough flight, though. None of us, except for Kobra, really slept. Zenchai was over-tired and probably over-stimulated from the in-flight entertainment. Air New Zealand is a great airline, but we struggled through to Canada.

Upon arrival, the immigration lines were long. We queued until an officer saw Jamie nursing Kobra and pulled us out to a faster track.

But the immigration officer grilled us. "Where are you staying?" "How are you affording this?" "How long have you been travelling?" What sort of work do you do?" "Where was your daughter born?" "Does she have a Brazilian passport?" "Can I see it?" etc.

That wasn't the end of it. We were then pulled out of line again, this time to have our bags searched. It appeared like a random procedure, but I didn't think we particularly looked like smugglers.

In the end, though, the officer asked some more questions, took our passports, presumably ran a few checks and came back satisfied. 

We were in Vancouver, safely. It was colder than in New Zealand - cloudy with drizzle, but not as cold as I had anticipated. We arrived at our home for the next three months, a cosy Laneway Home, and slowly settled in. Seasoned travellers we may all be, but it still doesn't get any easier. 

New Zealand: 19 Days On The Road With Two Children

IT didn't exactly start perfectly, with Zenchai throwing a tizzy in a car park in Christchurch (a case of being too hungry). But it only could get better from there. And, thankfully, it did.

Some 3,404km and nearly three weeks later, we'd explored New Zealand's stunning South Island, crossed the Cook Strait back to the North Island, and driven up to Auckland.

The landscape in NZ is overwhelmingly spectacular. Each day, when I thought it couldn't get any better, it did. Often we'd see ice-capped mountains, rolling green hills, blue lakes - all in the same location!

The roads, especially on the South Island, were practically empty. No traffic jams. There were occasional, though brief, roadworks. But it was a pleasure getting around.

However, we tried not to be on the road too long each day (between two and three hours) to save our children from boredom and confinement. Often we'd time the driving for when Kobra would take her nap. 

We did most of our camping in DOC (Department of Conservation) campsites. We received a booklet when we hired our Rocket rental vehicle and each night aimed for a DOC site near where we aimed to stop.

The sites are all relatively cheap (around NZ$15 per night) and in some extraordinary locations. The entry fee goes towards maintenance of the sites. Facilities are usually quite basic. We did most of our bathing in chilly but stunning, picture-postcard lakes or rivers. For shaving, I would try to find a public toilet en route or use the reflection of the car windows as my mirror. 

We were mostly fortunate with the weather. It was summer time after all. We hardly saw rain the first week and there were just a few days when we were washed out. 

The rain would also make it harder for sleeping. Not only did it sound loud pounding on the roof, but our canopy at the back of the vehicle would, in the case of a heavy downpour, leak a little. We just turned ourselves around, so our heads were in the middle of the vehicle rather than the back.

But, generally, we all slept reasonably well. We were tightly packed, but that was great on the few chilly nights when the skies were clear. 

In campsites there would often be children for ours to play with. We could see Zenchai's confidence growing in approaching other youngsters. He had a ball. So did Kobra. One day when we stayed by the amazing Lake Hawea, north of Queenstown, Zenchai just walked over to some children and the next thing we knew he was on a speedboat trip. He just took off on the lake. We laughed about how our son was off with some strangers we'd never met. But we felt sure he was safe and loving it. I heard him brag to one other child as he boarded the boat, "I've been on a ship called the Sea Shepherd. It's a real pirate ship, you know?" 

However, Kobra fell asleep while Zenchai was out on the water and, because we needed to get going, Jamie and I started looking at each other, thinking 'How long is he going to be out there?' 

In the end, I had to kayak to the boat (using a kayak our camping neighbours had kindly offered to us) to get Zenchai back. Like those neighbours, the people we met along our trip were always friendly. I found customer service in NZ to be outstanding, too. The Kiwis are a welcoming bunch. 

Starting in Christchurch, we headed south to Dunedin, where we visited this steepest street in the world and observed the endangered yellow-eyed penguins and seals at a special conservation.

From there we made our way across land, via Gore towards Te Anau, where there is a fabulous lake and we stayed the night. The following day we headed north to the unforgettably stunning Milford Sound in Fiordland, taking in the mountains, valleys and breathtaking scenery. 

There is just one road there, Milford Sound being the only fiord accessible by land. Make sure you fill your vehicle with petrol before you head there as there are no gas stations. 

We headed back towards Te Anau, camping by a river for the night at Deer Flat. The next day we ventured towards Queenstown, which was more spectacular than I ever imagined.

Although it's full of young people on adrenaline rushes (lots of adventure-type activities going on here) and a ski town in the winter, Queenstown is beautiful. The water, almost turquoise in parts, reminded me of Europe's fantastic Adriatic Sea. 

Queenstown can be expensive, so we headed out for our next stop at another special DOC campsite at Moke Lake.

The next day, after passing through sparkling Wanaka, we stayed at Kidds Bush at Hawea Conservation Park, again by the lake. It was also breathtaking.

We didn't feel disappointed until the next day, when we camped out at Paringa Lake and got ambushed by sand flies. We had been warned. But it didn't help. It was so severe they came through into the car during the night along with mosquitoes. We slept mostly with covers over our faces and then Jamie and I made an executive decision first thing in the morning - to sling everything in the back of the car and get out as fast as we could! 

On the next stage of our journey we passed through the gold-mining town of Ross, which is apparently sitting on NZ$700 million of the precious metal. Zenchai got his own mining pan and gave it a go in the nearby river, excitedly hoping he'd get rich. No such luck. 

By the time we reached Hokitika further up the west coast, rain was on its way. For the second night running (but for different reasons) our sleep was broken. But the kids didn't seem to be affected much. With rain lashing down, we took to the roads and, because we couldn't see a great deal, just kept driving, getting as far as Motueka.

There, we found a decent campsite, full of children for Zenchai and Kobra to play with. The next day we headed to Golden Bay in the impressive Abel Tasman National Park, where we had the beach to ourselves. The sun was out, but the wind fresh. Zenchai and I did some sprint training and then built sandcastles.

We moved on to Kaiteriteri, staying in the Bethany Park campsite where they offered a family deal for only NZ$20. Zenchai made friends again. He was playing football in the dark. The next morning, with the sun shining gloriously, we headed for the beach before hitting the roads, passing through Nelson as we proceeded north. 

Hours of driving took us to Rarangi, where we stopped at the remote Whites Bay. It took some finding, going up lots of winding roads. That night, before dinner, firemen came to our site to warn us of a possible Tsunami from the earthquake in the Soloman Islands. The beach was closed. But nothing happened. 

It wasn't far from there to catch the ferry across the Strait from Picton, where there is an excellent kids playground. Luckily for us the Strait was calm (ish). It was a glorious day. By 4.30pm we were in Wellington again. We didn't stop, instead heading onwards Otaki, where we camped at Otaki Forks, a gorgeous spot in the Tararua Forest Park. We had the place to ourselves and a glorious river to bathe in the next morning - though it was the coldest plunge pool I'd ever experienced!

We did a spot of shopping in Otaki at outlet malls, especially for Icebreaker clothing as we equipped ourselves for our next stop, Vancouver. Icebreaker clothing is expensive (it supposedly doesn't smell from prolonged use), but there were some great deals.

Our journey took us back to Napier, where we stayed with friends for three nights, having intended to be there only two. We just couldn't bring ourselves to leave and I got to revisit CrossFit Napier - three times!!

From Napier it was a two-hour drive to Taupo, where we stopped for lunch, and then another 90 minutes to Tauranga, where we ended up at a caravan park not typical of the places we had frequented on the rest of our journey. It was cheap (NZ$20), but the notice in the kitchen warning about theft in the area didn't exactly make us feel at home.

The nearer to Auckland we went, the more traffic we encountered. Tauranga, for instance, was surprisingly congested. We ended up racing the clock a little to reach our hostel in Auckland, buy food for dinner and our flight out of New Zealand the next day and then take our rental Rocket to a car wash before dropping it off by 4pm.

We made it without a hitch. The staff at Spaceship (Rocket) were friendly as ever. They didn't baulk at the broken tent either. It was a (standard) NZ$25 cab fare back to the hostel as we entered our final 24 hours in New Zealand. 

In terms of travel highlights since we departed the UK over three years ago, New Zealand is right up there at the top. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Zealand: Seeing It All On A Budget

IF I had known New Zealand was as spectacularly beautiful as it is, I would have come here sooner. Or at least planned to do so.

Or if I had listened to my wife when she was telling me how special NZ is (she lived there 10 years ago), we'd have maybe visited this part of the world first. Who knows? Or maybe saving NZ for last - or near-last - was a smart move. 

For an outdoors lifestyle, New Zealand offers everything from beach to mountains to skiing to surfing to hiking to tramping to any number of sports. Is there a more scenically beautiful country in the world? 

Although we arrived here before Christmas and spent time in Auckland, Napier and Wellington (my wife's old stamping ground) in the North Island, we desperately wanted to see the South Island, too - without missing too much.

New Zealand isn't cheap, though. We explored a variety of ways of seeing all we could in the near-three weeks remaining at our disposal. But there wasn't a way we could think of - with a family of four - without stretching the budget.

As a single person or a couple, costs can be reduced dramatically (you could even resort to hitch-hiking if you had to), but with little ones it's not that simple, though in Motueka we did meet an interesting and adventurous American/Canadian couple (see Jasonschlarb.com) who had been cycling NZ with a two-year-old!

The big issue for us was how to get around. We ruled out bicycles, obviously. Do we buy a car and then sell it before we leave? Do we go by coach, but then be limited to seeing only what the coach tour allows (and deal with the motion sickness our kids get on buses) and then have to stay in costly hotels? Do we rent a vehicle, but then fork out around NZ$80 per night in accommodation on top? And long distance train travel in NZ is pretty non-existent.

We looked at all sorts of options, but seeing as accommodation and food are usually the two most expensive elements of travel, a rental camper of some description fitted the bill. Why not have a house on wheels?

The regular campers (three or four-berth) were just too expensive at around NZ$120-plus per day (in high season, which it was) and used up too much fuel. Trying to get a relocation camper didn't work either as in NZ the time period given to drive a vehicle from one location to another is limited and fuel doesn't come free as is usually the case when relocating in Australia.

In the end we found the Spaceships/Rockets. These are Toyota cars with double beds in the back. They can be hired in NZ from three locations: Christchurch (which we did); Auckland; Queenstown. They also are classified as cars, which means it's cheaper to take on the ferry from Picton (in the south) to Wellington. The ferry crossing at NZ $258 still wasn't exactly a snip, though.

We shopped around for our Spaceship and got a good deal from the Christchurch location at NZ$55 per day. With a Sat Nav, our daily rental was NZ$60 (approximately £30). We also hired a tent for NZ$100, which came in useful (for storing luggage at night) even though I slept in it only once (usually, Jamie, Kobra and I would kip on the double bed at the back of the Rocket and Zenchai in the reclined passenger seat up front).

That cosy set-up worked well, though had some drawbacks as in summer it stays light for longer and Zenchai often didn't nod off until around 10pm. Also, once or twice his long legs would reach out in the night and knock the controls and we'd wake up with the hazard lights blinking!

Going back to costs, though, you have to also factor in fuel prices, which add up as you cover ground each day. But having refused to shell out for the Galapagos Islands when in Ecuador in 2010, we didn't want to repeat the mistake of not seeing somewhere special (the Galapagos are expensive to see, but completely unique) because of the price. Some experiences are worth any price, if you know what I mean. 

We trimmed our costs further by eating in practically the whole time. We'd stop at supermarkets, buy our produce and cook out with the equipment (two-hob portable cooker) that came with our Rocket vehicle. 

Another cost to bear in mind is campsites. Freedom camping is prohibited in New Zealand anywhere but in designated areas. Fines can be hefty.

We found the DOC (Department of Conservation) campsites to be the best value. Often they would charge NZ$6 per adult and NZ$3 for children aged over five. This meant we were staying for NZ$15 per night. For that, you would at least get the use of a toilet. Usually, there was running water (though not always drinkable). Some sites had showers (but cold). 

Many of the DOC sites are in scenic reserves, by lakes or rivers or the ocean. We found some exceptional places to put our heads down for the night.

However, some regions of NZ have more DOC sites than others and when we couldn't locate one we'd resort to the more pricey campsites  (Top 10, Kiwi etc) that have hot showers, kitchens, TV rooms, playgrounds, pools, internet etc. These were priced anywhere between NZ$20 and NZ$60, though we never paid above NZ$55.

But Jamie and I certainly preferred the DOC sites, just for their beauty, peacefulness and being so close to nature. The more touristy sites were just too busy and lacked any real character or privacy.

When the costs were totalled, though, this is how it was broken down in terms of average daily expenses: campsites NZ$26.60; petrol NZ$52.43; food, drink and essential items NZ$57.66.

Not exactly rock bottom prices, but you'd struggle to find a room for four anywhere on our route for anywhere close to what we spent at campsites. And how could you feed your family three times a day for less than what amounts to £30 without venturing to a fast-food joint?

If we'd had longer to travel, we would have probably opted to buy a second-hand camper. They can be cheap in NZ. I met a Frenchman at our hostel in Auckland who had bought a camper for NZ$3,500, driven over 10,000km over two months and sold it for about the same price! It can be done.

We could have been more lavish with our spending and gone on plane trips, tours, cruises etc. But, with two young children, that didn't really work. We had our enjoyment by exploring mostly what New Zealand offers for free - the great outdoors.

We skipped many places we had hoped to visit, but that just means we'll have to come back again. 

World Travel: Surviving Motion Sickness

I'M not the worst in our family for motion sickness. I recall years ago, when on holiday in Mauritius on a deep-sea fishing trip (my pre-vegan days), being sick the entire time (about six hours). And as a kid, when we used to take family trips through Europe, I'd often have my head hanging out of the window of my dad's Renault 16 (especially on winding roads) or whatever model he had at the time.

But Zenchai's in a different league. He'll get sick if we go over a speed bump! No, I'm exagerating the point, but the little guy is terribly sensitive to motion sickness. He's okay on city buses, trains, quad bikes and Indian/Thai tuk-tuks, but fast taxis, bumpy aeroplane rides, rough ferry crossings and long-distance coaches in particular have his little guts stewing.

What prompted this blog was our trip down from Auckland to beautiful Napier by coach on New Year's Day. I thought it was a relatively smooth one, but not Zenchai. 

About two hours into the journey, after he'd chowed down a few peanut butter sandwiches (not the Stig sandwiches he's pictured with above) for breakfast, he started to feel ill. 

I noticed the signs - the frequent yawning. But we didn't react fast enough. Zenchai complained he wasn't feeling well. Jamie, sat in front of us with Kobra, started searching for a bag and then handed it to me. I tried getting it open. But it was too late. As I fumbled trying to find the bag opening, Zenchai projectile vommited all over himself and me. Yuck!

Then something amazing happened. An Australian passenger travelling alone (a man and father of two teenage boys) quickly dashed to the rescue and offered his help!

Armed with a bag of baby wipes, I accepted his assistance (of course) and handed them to him. Between us, we managed to mop up most of the sick. 

We've been through this scenario before, especially when in Ecuador, where the roads are winding and the drivers handle them like maniacs.

So armed with some experience, here are our tips for surviving motion sickness with children.

1. Don't read.

2. Get fresh air (if possible).

3. Watch the road and get a seat near the front if on a coach or bus.

4. Get your child to sleep if he or she can.

5. Travel on an empty stomach (which is contrary to a lot of advice, but just my experience). If you must eat, try potato chips (we don't usually eat them, but they apparently work for those with sensitive guts and we tried it recently on Zenchai - with success)

6. Carry extra clothing.

7. Make sure you have sick bags.

8. Take baby wipes or something to clean up a mess with.

After Zenchai had emptied the contents of his belly, he was pretty much okay. He at least survived the remaining three hours on the road, though Kobra had her turn and spat up all over Jamie, who isn't a great coach traveller either.

But don't let all of this put you off embarking on long travels with your children. After all, if we can survive then surely anyone can. 

 

Mornington Peninsula: A-mazing Day Out

ENCHANTING mazes are everywhere in this kids paradise

They'll put a smile on your face, too 

And provide a place and tools to pretend you are at the beach

How about some snakes and ladders? 

Or one of the many brain-teasers?

Dress up as a pirate close to the tube slides

Then pull your vessel to the top and come down at speed

Time for the obstacle courses and some physical challenges

Make sure to follow the directions

But don't get your neck caught

Admire some wooden, life-like sculptures  

Take a walk inside the 3D Maze and a "wobbly bridge" that makes you feel as if you are going to drop 

If it can be climbed then I know who will try 

Walking with some spring in their steps through another maze 

In need of a stretch - or maybe a sleep?

A lookout tower made from a tree trunk

And a maze inspired by London's Hampton Court to finish

*The Enchanted Maze Gardens are located near Albert's Seat in Rosebud. It's a fun day out, but not cheap. We paid $77 (Aus) for the four of us. There is plenty to do and a cafe on site, though bringing a picnic is the best idea.

Melbourne: More Random Acts Of Kindness

WE must be doing something right to attract good energy. I mean, to be pitched (literally) by the beach in Australia, living outdoors in the fresh air and have all our camping equipment provided for free by friends!

Throughout our journey around the world we have been the recipients of random acts of kindness. It doesn't matter how small or large, it always blows me away, reminds me there are lovely people in the world and makes me want to reciprocate.

I was chatting one morning after training with the coach at Crossfit Mornington Peninsula (who is from Watford, close to where we used to live in England). She asked what I was up to for the weekend and I explained we were heading back into town (Melbourne), by public transport.

Without batting an eyelid, she and her husband asked if we'd like to borrow their car, not just for the weekend, but for the remainder of our stay in Rosebud!

Of course, I was stunned by the offer and gratefully accepted. And they also found a car seat for Kobra (from another member of the gym) and hooked that in for us as well! Lovely people.

Consequently, our world opened up enormously. Places to visit that were out of reach (for kids and by bicycle) were suddenly on the agenda. 

Then on another day, as I was washing dishes (as usual) by the tap near our tent, a neighbour approached, carrying a can of fuel.

I knew he was leaving any day, so assumed he was coming to say 'goodbye'. But instead he offered us the fuel from his container.

He said he wasn't allowed to take it on the ferry to Tasmania and would have to throw it. But he opted to give it to us instead. Nice man. 

As if that were not enough, another camping resident (and a Bobby on the beat) we became friendly with, offered to help us move back to Melbourne. He said he'd collect all our stuff in his trailer (if we wanted). He checked his work schedule on his iphone and said he was free. "Give me a call," he said. "I'll bring my son and he can play with yours before we go."

Turns out that our plans changed and we told him "thanks, but we're leaving a few days later". He still checked his schedule and said he'd try to come. 

Then our Crossfit coach, who allowed us to borrow her car, offered, without prompting, to drive us back into Melbourne. "No problem," she said. And she did, even sacrificing a massage appointment in the process. 

The generosity didn't end there either. The day we finished camping, Nikki and Tony, our good friends who allowed us to borrow all their equipment, came to help us take it all down. Then they said I could use their car to ferry Jamie and the kids to our airport hotel, probably saving us about $150 in taxi fees.

To cap it all, I received an email from No Worries Curries, a Melbourne company run by a charming husband and wife originally from Goa, who make truly fabulous spice packs. I'd posted some comments on her Facebook page - genuine comments - and she wrote back to me, offering some freebies. 

So when people ask me if I ever regret leaving behind England and a stable job, I always say no for two reasons: 1. the fantastic people we have met along our journey and 2. the great experiences we have had. Some things money cannot buy. 

 

Mornington Peninsula: The Mauritian Vibe Goes A Long Way

I'D seen her walk by with her dog several times. There was something about this lady - the skin colour, thin calves - that made me think: 'She's definitely a Mauritian'.

I can sort of identify Mauritians the way I can British people abroad. Maybe it's a kind of sixth sense.

So one morning this lady I'd seen several times stopped outside our tent, talking to another person. Jamie said to me, "I bet she's Mauritian." I told her, "That's exactly what I was thinking."

As she spoke, I recognised certain pronounciations made only by Mauritians when speaking English. So I moved in and struck up a conversation, asking her outright, "Are you from Mauritius?"

She said yes and added, "I was thinking the same of you. I'd seen you around several times."

The conversation went on, me asking her who she knew that I might know. Sure enough, what with Mauritius being a small island, she knew relations of mine, including my second cousin who lives in Melbourne with her kids. 

We parted after a great chat. I wrote down her name (Joan), because I was going to mention her to my father, to see if he knew/remembered her. She continued her walk along the beach and then, about an hour later, reappeared.

"Hi Claude," she said. "What's your dad's name?" she asked, as though something had been on her mind.  I told her and her face dropped, like she'd been told she had won the lottery. 

"My God! You're kidding." Turns out she knew my dad, uncles, aunts, grandparents etc. In fact, her cousin was married to one of my grandmother's brothers. So, through marriage rather than blood, we are related.

Jamie and I went out for the rest of the day and when we returned I went off to do some work on the computer. As I came back to the tent, there she was - with her German husband. She wanted to introduce us. 

She was as excited about our meeting as we were. She said after our initial meeting she had jumped on the phone the moment she got home and called her sister to tell her all about it. She also called her cousin in Mauritius, who, as it happened, was celebrating there with my uncle, who had turned 70!

Mauritians are fantastic, believe me - so warm and welcoming. I'm lucky to be half-Mauritian. She wanted us to come to dinner. Not only that, she wanted us to come and stay at her house. She wanted to drive us to the airport. She just wanted to help.

She was so disappointed we had met at the end of our Australian trip. But I get the feeling that somewhere, somehow, we will meet again. 

 

Mornington Peninsula: Community At Last

THE sound of children playing was Zenchai's wake-up call. Usually painfully slow to get dressed after rising, Zenchai, like Superman going into a telephone box, would bounce out of bed, rip off his pyjamas and throw on his play gear. Then he unzipped the tent and was off.

Often we wouldn't see him for hours - though we could nearly always hear him. The kids in the campground would ride their bikes and scooters endlessly, in and out of puddles, around the toilet area where the ground was flat and along the trail path. There was no concern for traffic. Children of all ages playing freely in the streets - isn't that what childhood should be like? The cars drove slowly and carefully and the kids learned to stop and allow them to pass.

Mostly, visiting families would arrive on the weekends and leave before the work week started again. That felt strange to us. One minute the campsite was deserted and then crammed and then deserted again.

Zenchai continually had to readjust. He made some good friends and had great fun doing what young boys and children do. There was hardly any need for parental policing - just lots of kids playing happily together. Kobra, as she does, just fitted in where she could and wanted to and smiled at everyone. She loved having all the children around.

We had a community and met some great people - all so friendly and welcoming. We shared food, time, stories, experiences and played cricket, using a chair as our wickets. The children joined in, too. It was great fun.

We all headed to the beach one roasting day when the temperature, freakishly for spring, nudged 40 degrees. It was so hot Jamie had to take her chair into the bay to stay cool. 

But in Melbourne the weather never remains the same for long. Soon the winds, rains and cooler climates rolled in. The sun poked its head out from time to time.

This camping experience really grew on us. My cousin came down from Melbourne and we hung out with her children. We took some family bike rides along the beach front after dinner together. We found another fine playground with ramps and Zenchai got to practice new stunts. 

We took some excursions in the local area, heading up Albert's Seat and beyond for some strawberry-picking and visiting (for Zenchai) a car museum (which was pretty impressive). 

It was only when the rain came and was prolonged that life became really challenging. Our dining area, with chairs, drying clothes, table and fridge, would get damp and cramped. If the rain persisted it would be hard to clean dishes or clothes or even venture far. Shoes got muddy and getting in and out of the tent proved a struggle.

One night towards the end of our stay the winds, joined by heavy rain, reached 110kmh. I thought the tent was going to take off. But it stood firm - and the gazebo, too.

Dealing with adverse conditions is all a part of the adventure and experience, I suppose. The days, which seemed long to begin with when we weren't so sure what we were doing, soon flew by at a rate of knots. 

November, December and soon it will be Christmas again. Where has the year gone?

Melbourne: Caring For The Classics

CLASSICAL music didn't appeal to me in any way until, say, about 10 years ago. As a child, I remember my parents listening to it all the time. I suppose I reacted against it.

Maybe missing the European Cup final (as it was then known in 1976) between Bayern Munich and St. Etienne (I was a football nut) - to be dragged off instead to a classical music concert at the Albert Hall - cemented my decision to tune out Bach, Strauss and their contemporaries. 

But nowadays, for whatever reason, I find it relaxing and calming. When driving, which can be stressful, I'd much rather listen to classical than anything else.

Consciously, I haven't tried pushing my musical choices on to my children. Zenchai just happens to have a varied taste. For instance, he likes Bob Marley, Cat Stevens, Krishna Das, Norah Jones, Nirvana, but also classical music.

One morning, while chatting over breakfast here in Melbourne, Zenchai was listening to Classic FM (because it reminds him of his grandparents' home in England). 

And his ears pricked up when he heard of a 24-hour concert in Melbourne billed as Care Aware. The idea of a 24-hour concert seemed to confound him. The DJ then said to listeners to pick up something (weighing about the same as a violin) and to hold it in a violinist's position for around three minutes. Zenchai gave it a try, but couldn't do it.

I explained to him that in the concert the musicians would probably have to hold on to their instruments for the best part of a full day. He was intrigued.

The next step was to get tickets, as I knew he was interested. They were free, too. But as the concert by the 200-strong Impossible Orchestra was to raise awareness and money for the millions of carers in Australia who go unpaid, we made an online donation and booked our seats.

Seats could be booked for three-hour portions only, which was long enough for a six-year-old. The concert started at 5pm on a Saturday and finished at that time the following day. Zenchai and I went for the climax.

Zenchai particularly enjoyed getting dressed up and feeling more grown up, borrowing some clothes from a friend (thanks, Kyle). 

The gig took place in Melbourne city at Hamer Hall. We took the train in from Bonbeach and found the venue easily enough - about one minute walk from Flinders Street station. Collecting tickets was simple. The seats were comfy. We then listened and watched. One listener described it as an "educational eargasm".

I was surprised by how much Zenchai got into it, applauding after the various pieces were played and asking about the different instruments, the cameramen, lighting etc. I answered what I could. 

During one interval we went outside and wondered around the Sunday Market. At a stall (noworriescurries.com) selling Indian spices, Zenchai and I chatted with the owners. They were so taken with Zenchai that the lady kindly gave us some extras. 

We went back in for the conclusion of the concert. I didn't pressure Zenchai to stay until the end, but he chose to remain. It gave me an opportunity on the train on the way home to talk with him about carers and what they do and how selfless they are. How this affects him I don't know. 

But the outing, I know for sure, was a big success.