Abrams Family World Travel

Singapore: Flying Into The Future

CHANGI airport has a glimmering, expansive and futuristic feel to it that almost takes your breath away. So immaculate and space-age like, it's as if the Singaporians have thought of everything.

If there is a ever an airport to be stranded at, especially with kids, Singapore is the one.
Just so happened that I was travelling alone. But there's a play area, family zone and toys and books section, not to mention an entertainment deck and baby-care room.

For adults the list is even longer, from spas and massages to strolling through one of five gardens, taking a plunge in the rooftop swimming pool, TV lounges, business centres and 500 free internet stations.

Singapore is a busy airport with 301,711 flights in 2011 - one  every 100 seconds!

That said, Changi is so big and organised you don't feel as if you can't move and the queues were not excessive when I travelled.

On my journey out of Singapore (to Penang), I was so sweaty walking to the train station from my hotel and getting to the airport in the middle of the day that I needed to take a shower.

Luckily for everyone on my flight, Changi had the facilities. It cost S$8.50 (£4.25), but you get a towel and luxury service. If you wanted - and had the time and budget - you could throw in a massage or spend time in a jacuzzi.

Needless to say that when I arrived  at Changi from Chang Mai (which, comparatively, seemed like another world), I was spoiled for choice as to how to further my journey into the city.

My options were the airport shuttle/limousine ($45-50), car rental, taxi ($18-38), train ($1..40-$2) or bus (under $2). The exchange rate is roughly $2 for every pound.

I opted for the train. And, as I suspected would be the case, it was immaculate, efficient and cheap.

I noticed the penalty signs for smoking ($1,000) and eating or drinking ($500) and wondered whether leaving my fingerprints on the pole I was holding on to would be a violation of one kind or another.

There were even arrows on the floor as you wait to board the train, telling those getting on where to stand and those disembarking (or 'alighting' as they like to say here) where to go.

As I headed out of the airport, though, everything started to go downhill, metaphorically speaking, of course.

Lugging my heavy rucksack on my back and carrying the other over one shoulder, I emerged from the train station nearest my lodging and searched in darkness for my road.

Although it happened to run by the train stop, there was no indication of which way the numbers ran or which direction I should head. I asked a few people, but no-one seemed to know. So I took a wild guess and, in the humidity, lumbered on.

After about 10 minutes and with no hotel in sight, I took a detour to find a taxi. I stood on a busy street corner and flagged down whatever cabs came my way.

Having recently been in India, where taxi drivers will do anything for your business, I was surprised when six taxis stopped and each refused my custom, using excuses like 'I don't know where it is'.

Eventually, one driver did tell me where to go, but, bizarrely, showed no interest in driving me. I walked on another 800m, through a vibrant (mostly Chinese) restaurant area. The pavements were packed with diners, and I passed by durian stalls displaying more of these giant-sized, prickly fruits than you could possibly count.

By the time I arrived at my hotel I was so hot that I feared a local might make a citizen's arrest for me dripping my sweat all over the pavement.

I checked in to my soul-less 'room without a view' and tried taking a shower, but it didn't work (I got it going eventually the next day) and, given the lateness of the hour and my hunger levels, had a quick wash and ventured out to eat.

I settled for a couple of coconuts  (juice and flesh) for an expensive $8 and headed back for a night's rest to see what this sprawling city would bring me in the day time.

 

Varkala Beach: First Impressions

FOR westerners visiting Varkala Beach in Southern India, there are a few things you should know and accept - like if you have a young daughter, she will likely be stolen from your arms by doting women, younger girls and even men!

This, I am certain, isn't just a fascination unique to the ultra-friendly people of this region. I suspect it is nationwide.

On a recent trip to the beach with Zenchai and Kobra, at least 16 visitors - men, woman, younger men and girls - came to introduce themselves and smile and touch Kobra (Jamie wasn't with us).

At one point a group of young men started passing Kobra around and each having their photo taken with her, like she was some kind of zoo exhibit. I wasn't sure whether to be proud or offended. 

Thank God Kobra is such a good sport. She never gets flustered by the attention, unlike her older brother. And while Zenchai doesn't much like being approached by strangers, I am sure he's finding all the loving attention his sister gets to be difficult to deal with. 

He has found an outlet bodysurfing, building sand castles and playing with the local boys where we are staying. His lego and matchbox cars are particularly popular. 

We are not the only visitors here by any stretch. In fact, we were quite shocked by the numbers of tourists. It has a sort of Greek holiday resort feel. There are lots of British, Australian, American, German, French, Italian and Russian visitors. And the restaurants serve multi-national cuisine.

It's a place in India where people come to relax by the beach (and watch the magnificent sunsets) and as we are next going to Chiang Mai in Thailand, a city in the north, we thought we'd get enough sun and sand to hold us over.

Varkala Beach is laid back - it can take a while to get served in restaurants, although the food is often prepared freshly and well worth the wait. 

The prices, compared to London at least, are mind-blowing - and Kerala is apparently one of the more expensive Indian states! We usually fill our bellies for between £4 and £7, ordering the quantity of food that would cost at least £30-£40 in England.

There are a number of places which make fresh juices  - papaya, watermelon, pineapple, veggie juices etc. Take your pick. Expect to pay around 50 rupees (60 pence). Try the Juice Shack or Chillout Lounge (where they also show Premiership football).

Surprisingly, fresh coconut water and coconuts are not abundant. You have to head to the end of the beach, in the direction of the helipad and heading to Varkala town, for the few stalls which supply them. 

Accommodation is not in short supply, though. Resorts, hostels and homestays line the beachfront and, compared with western standards, offer fairly inexpensive rates. For instance, we paid R935 (£12) per night for our room for the first week and then negotiated a cheaper rate elsewhere for the remainder of our stay. We did look at rented houses and apartments, but they are harder to find and usually much further from the beach. Given the heat (about 33 degrees on average in January) and carrying Kobra around, we opted to be close to the beaches and restaurants. 

Talking of heat, make sure you bring with you sunscreen lotion. The sun, especially around mid-day, is particularly strong. My favourites times of day are 6am, as the sun rises, and 4pm, when it starts to set.

I like to get up early to exercise. There are no parks around here, so people congregate on the beach and even as the sun comes up the beach is surprisingly populated with joggers, people doing yoga, playing volleyball, cricket and football. There is a gym, with machines and free weights, on the way to Varkala town. Cost for about a month is R1,000 (£13).

And if you over-do it, there is no shortage of massage therapists. Not a day passes without me being asked if I'd like a massage or, for that matter, to check out the many shops selling colourful clothes and artefacts.

Make sure you take off your shoes before entering any building. It's worth considering your footwear, because a shoe that doesn't come off or go on easily can become an irritation if you decide to go in and out on a shopping spree. Flip-flops are perfect. 

Prices are reasonable, even if it is inflated for tourists. Be sure to bargain with them, even if you are arguing over what turns out to be a few pence. Otherwise the price of goods will go through the roof. Also, bring cash with you. There are no ATMs. To change money and get the best rates, you have to go to Varkala town, a walk of a few kilometres.

It's early days for us still. We haven't yet fully explored Varkala town. Zenchai enjoyed a tuk-tuk ride I took him on. And he's keen to go on a train, too, but I haven't looked into that. We also want to spend a night on a boat in the backwaters, so there is plenty to do and see besides enjoying the leisurely pace of life. 

 

World Travel: Lessons Learned from Our First Year

We most definitely live and learn travelling the way we do. Mistakes are inevitable, but also invaluable.

That's why every 'bad' experience we've had has effectively been a blessing. It also doesn't harm to learn from what others have been through. Therefore, we thought we'd share with you what information we think has been priceless or helpful from our first 12 months travelling - advice that would most certainly have shortened our learning curve had we known in advance. 

 

Travelling with the sun

Both Claude and I relish the sunshine. So when we mapped out our itinerary to London, we knew that we wanted to follow the sun and be in places during their summers. However, what we did not consider was how our pursuit of warmth would also empty our pockets more quickly.

While it has been fantastic enjoying over a year of summer-like conditions, it has also meant travelling to places during peak season. Had we thought more deeply about travelling with the sun, we could have timed our arrivals into certain cities/areas just before or after the high season.

Something else that did not cross our minds was how travelling with the sun would effect Zenchai's socialisation with other children. By continuously landing in places during summer time, schools have almost always been closed.

When in small villages, like Kukljica in Croatia, this was not so much a problem as potential playmates by the sea were abundant. But in large cities like Buenos Aires, where children weren't roaming freely, this meant lonely playtimes for Zenchai.

Have at least the first night's stay booked

When you arrive in a new location try to have the first night's accommodation pre-booked. Sometimes there's a temptation to take a chance and see what you can find by wondering around - and that's understandable if you're not sure you want to stay. But we've found this rather stressful, especially if you discover the city or town you intend to stay in is fully booked. It's a real pain, particularly if you have children, to go from one hotel/hostel to another, hoping something is available. Going through Europe by car last summer we found ourselves on a few occasions - tired from a long day of driving - cruising down dimly-lit streets in the middle of the night and knocking on doors to find accommodation. Now we check online with tripadvisor and hostelworld and always read reviews, too. It narrows the choice and you discover feedback on whether a place is noisy, a party hostel, has a kitchen, internet etc. 

Challenge of staying with people

On both Claude's and my top ten memories of 2010 was meeting and staying with friends and family. Those moments of union with loved ones have definitely left a huge impression on our hearts.

However, at times those stays didn't always go without a hitch in the sense that we both have felt uncomfortable in instances where our destiny was out of our control. Being reliant on transport, food or basic necessities has at times made us feel powerless, which can create friction for us.

We have learned that we are far more comfortable in other people's spaces if we are able to cater to our basic familial needs and not having to completely pass the buck to those who host us.

Clothing, toys, books etc

With each leg of our trip we have realised our tendency to over-pack, especially clothing, toys for Zenchai and books. This overindulgence created many anxious moments while we waited in queues at the airport to check our luggage.

Would our bags be overweight - again? This is something we are continually refining and with the impending arrival of our newest family member it is also something we need to perfect sooner rather than later.

Suitcases vs Rucksacks

At the moment we are travelling with two suitcases. My monster pink case and Claude's more sensibly-sized case. However, we have encountered many situations where having a rucksack each would have made for smoother travel.

Manage your money smartly

Travellers cheques used to be the only way to carry large amounts of currency when travelling. Not anymore. In Ecuador, travellers cheques were practically useless. Claude had to go from one bank to another to find someone willing to cash them. We haven't used them since. We opted for the FairFX card. It's simple to top up and all you require is an ATM machine to get your cash. FairFX offer you the option of having your money in pounds, dollars or Euros but don't charge for currency conversions or withdrawals (however, banks in certain countries, like Argentina and Uruguay, do impose a fee per transaction - roughly £3, which adds up). It's also worth noting - and checking - before travelling which credit cards certain countries prefer. For instance, Visa is the favoured card in Argentina. And in some countries, like Ecuador, credit card transactions are minimal, so you need access to cash. Do your homework.

Buy fruit and veg locally 

We do our best to purchase fruit and veg from local markets. The produce tends to be fresher, cheaper and local. It also helps keep them in business. In Marrakech, for instance, the difference in price between the markets and supermarket chains was ridiculous. If you're on a tight budget, it is definitely worth considering.

Check your dates!

Twice we turned up in Buenos Aires on days when the city had practically closed down. Once was a national holiday and on another occasion it was the Census. When you need access to shops - particularly for food - you don't want to be caught out. So before travelling or nailing down your dates, it's worth confirming your arrival dates don't coincide with a public holiday. Don't rely on the travel agent to tell you. 

Driving on slower roads

Tolls in France and most of Europe are really expensive. We couldn't believe last summer how much the cost of driving in Europe had escalated. We came off the toll roads in France, Italy, Slovenia and Croatia several times and, guess what? The experience was much more pleasurable: you get to see the real countryside and villages. You see so much more than when bombing up and down motorways, which tend to always look the same. Though it was much slower, going on the A roads is a lot cheaper. If you're not in a hurry, we'd certainly recommend it. 

Have a sick bag when on public transport

We had several incidents - in coaches, cars, taxis, ferries, aeroplanes - when a sick bag was required and we didn't have anything at the ready. In Ecuador, the taxis and public buses were awful in terms of smooth riding. Zenchai sometimes would throw up within minutes! Some plane rides are rough also. It's just better to be equipped and have plastic/paper bags easily at hand. You won't be sorry. 

Always check pots and pans when renting

It's easy when renting an apartment to look the place over, sign on the dotted line and part with your cash without looking in the cupboards to see what they have provided. Check the details. Make sure the accommodation offers what is being advertised. We got caught out in Cuenca last year when the kitchen didn't even have any gas for the burner! We also had to beg for dishes, chopping boards, knives etc - items you'd think would be standard. Don't assume kitchens are fully equipped. 

Have a camera on hand and spare battery charged

Do you ever find that when you leave behind your camera a photo opportunity presents itself? We do. So we decided that the golden rule is always take the camera - just in case. Better to have it and not use it than to have a once-in-a-lifetime moment pass you by. Charge your spare battery also. We do it almost immediately whenever one of our batteries dies. Having photographic memories is priceless. Be organised. 

Divide and conquer 

Doing everything as a family can be tiring and absorbing. Sometimes we, as parents, need a break - from partners, being parents and children. We learned to split the responsibilities. We still do things together, but, more now than before, also take turns in looking after Zenchai and going on excursions with him. It's made a significant difference and can really help restore some sanity and reduce the demands of being a close-knit family. 

Carry snacks and a pen

With young children - and pregnant women - you can't go far without having snacks. If, like us, your dietary requirements mean you prefer not to rely on junk food and sweets etc, it's essential to do some shopping in advance and get stocked up in case of any emergencies. Kids can quickly become a handful if they get over-hungry, so we try always to remember to pack fruit and snacks or make the effort to find out where there is a food source nearby. A pen can also come in handy. You never know when you may have to jot down some important information. So keep one tucked away in your bag or pocket at all times. 

Do your research when eating out

When eating out, we make sure we've done some investigating first. We use the Happy Cow and Vegan backpackers websites a lot. They are excellent for details on where to eat vegan around the world. We also have our travel guidebooks, that make recommendations. However, don't always trust the information. We've gone searching for restaurants with great reviews on Happy Cow only to find they no longer exist. That's why it's always useful to have a back-up plan. Similarly, guide books are usually a year or so out of date by the time you buy it. Prices can change. We learned the hard way that it pays to check the prices before sitting down. Usually, restaurants will display their menu and prices in the window. 

Buy watermelons whole

There's a good way to check if a watermelon is ripe: put it to your ear and tap it. If it sounds hollow then it's ready for consumption. But sometimes shops and small grocers will sell large watermelons in halves or slices. This can result in a melon sitting out for a while. We had one case in San Marcos Sierras, Argentina, where it was hot and we bought a half watermelon. By the time we sat down to eat it (about 30 minutes after the purchase), it had virtually turned to alcohol. The best way to avoid this is buy them whole or watch them cut a whole one open if you want slices. 

 

Argentina: Giant Land Of Friendliness, Beauty And Yerba Mate

We knew Argentina was large, but didn’t realise just how until we tried to plan getting around it.

Although it doesn’t seem so, Argentina (population 40 million) is the same size as India in terms of square miles. It’s the eighth largest country in the world.

Our intention was to see it all in three months. Having now had some experience of the country, that idea sounds so ridiculous. We only really scratched the surface. To do it properly, I’d like to go back, hire a campervan and drive around for 12 months. But the visitor’s visa is only valid for three months per entry, so you’d have to leave the country at various stages to make it possible.

We missed out on Patagonia (where there is also a Lake District), Mendoza (the wine country – although we’re not drinkers), Salta, the Los Glacieres National Park, Bariloche and Calafate, the multi-coloured mountains of Jujuy, not to mention the Valdes Peninsula and the wildlife sanctuary in Puerto Madryn.

Although getting around is relatively easy, it is quite expensive, at least when compared with other South American countries like, say, Ecuador. We took an overnight coach to Cordoba (the second largest city) from Buenos Aires, which was fabulous. Booking was easy. You can do it online with Omnilineas or, as we did, go direct to their offices (Maipu 459 on the 10th floor).

I visited alone the amazing Iguazu Falls, which was a 16-hour coach journey from the capital, but a truly spectacular sight. 

Together, though, we explored a few areas around Cordoba, like the hippy town of San Marcos Sierras, where we felt reunited with nature, and Capilla Del Monte, where we spent Christmas and New Year.

But we soon decided that constantly hopping from one place to another while Jamie was pregnant and Zenchai only four-and-a-half wasn’t what we had in mind. So we picked a few locations and pitched our tent, so to speak, for longer periods. That way we felt more settled and like we were living rather than visiting or touring.

Buenos Aires was enjoyable, a real walking city and easy to navigate. Each block is about 100m and the roads run on a grid system, much like in New York. But breathing in the pollution and cigarette smoke (Argentines are big smokers) almost wherever we walked where it was reasonably populated had us eager to move on in the end.

It’s sophisticated by South American standards, very European in its atmosphere and culture. The people are very helpful and friendly. Argentines, I noticed, love public displays of affection. They are big on tattoos also.

Buenos Aires is a city with tree-lined streets, cobbled roads, pastry and grocery shops on practically every corner, graffiti on walls and abandoned classic cars scattered everywhere (much to Zenchai’s delight). It’s home to the tango and yerba mate.

Cordoba, where we went after Capilla Del Monte, is much smaller than the capital: compact by comparison and cleaner (hardly any dog mess on the pavements). There is less to do and see, however. But it’s a shopper’s paradise (I can’t recall being in a place where there are so many shops – and all selling, more or less, the same items).

We rented apartments where we could in Argentina. This was the cheapest option, but only for stays of two weeks or more. We tried first online, but the process was tediously slow. With the bulk of rent required up front (in cash), be prepared to get your money out. And be warned that the banks in Argentina charge for ATM withdrawals and place a limit on the amount you can withdraw. (Talking of banks, be sure not to leave your need for cash until a Sunday afternoon as most banks are dry by then. If you’re desperate, go to an ATM inside a large petrol station).

After getting tired of waiting for rental agencies to reply to emails when we first arrived in Buenos Aires, we tried knocking on doors and this produced almost instant results. We’d recommend you find the area you like and then approach real estate people in the vicinity.

On our return to Buenos Aires in January, we successfully secured an apartment online with www.4rentargentina.com. Again, we had to pay in cash.

Palermo was our favourite neighbourhood. Home to the zoo, Botanical and Japanese Gardens, Palermo is large. If you want to be near the park – or are a jogger* - make sure you search in that area or opt for Recoleta, where there is also the extraordinary Cementerio de la Recoleta. San Telmo, an old district, also has lots to offer and is probably the place to be for museums, antique and old book shops, jewelry and bars. There is also a big food market.

When we were on the road or having short stays, we opted for hostels. Some are cheap and others not so (we happened to get to dusty San Marcos Sierras and Capilla del Monte during peak season). Buenos Aires has a wide selection, but do your homework and read reviews (trip advisor is a good starting point) before booking.

We preferred the hostels we found in Cordoba to Buenos Aires. Hostels are fine if you want a cheap space and to prepare your own meals, but it’s sometimes not ideal for families with small children (although in Cordoba it wasn’t a problem – try Babilonia Hostel and Pewman Che Hostel).

Many hostels can be noisy and sharing bathrooms has its drawbacks when you have a son who’s desperate for the toilet and a pregnant wife. Also, in Argentina the culture is to stay out late – even for kids – so taking an early night often comes at a price.

The positive side to hostels (for families) is that they offer a chance to meet other travellers. And for Zenchai this sometimes included children, which was nice.

Zenchai handled the travelling side well. We looked into internal air flights for ease of getting around, but it was too expensive, particularly for non-residents. As for food, buying from a grocer, as we tended to, was affordable. I could fill a large bag with fruit and veg, to last us several days, for about £15. The same would cost at least double back in England. One evening in Cordoba, I even bought enough veg to make dinner for three and it came to the equivalent of £1.

The variety is better for fruits than vegetables. It didn’t compare in Buenos Aires and Cordoba with what we could get our hands on in Capilla Del Monte - a small town which you can easily cover on foot in a few hours, probably less if you are doing just the centre. Getting there, we took a bus from Cordoba. It takes a lot longer (about four hours) if you are on a bus that stops in every town. The direct one (Sarmiento is the operator) takes around an hour.

Long-distance train networks aren’t reliable in Argentina, but the subway (Subte) in Buenos Aires is excellent and very cheap at 1.10 pesos (20p) per person. It runs from 6.30am-11pm and trains come frequently, even on weekends. To ride the buses is the same cost.

Clothes and shoes etc are expensive, so we didn’t do any shopping of that kind (especially as we’re always trying to travel lightly), except for Zenchai’s Argentina top which I found at a fair price in one of the many shops in the capital city selling football kits.

Eating out could be costly also. It depended where you went. We had some cheap and good meals for under £10 and others, though not so frequently, that came to nearly £30. The food is decent, though unexceptional, at least by vegan standards (I can’t comment on steak houses etc).

In Cordoba, we found several lunchtime vegetarian options which were fine. Eating out at night was more difficult, because of Zenchai’s sleeping times and how Argentine’s prefer to feast late. But, to be honest, we generally found dining out rather disappointing wherever we went last year, regardless of the country. When we look back on our favourite meals, it’s nearly always been those home-cooked and/or with family. You can’t beat it!

Overall, though, we really enjoyed our Argentina experience. It surpassed all expectations. We had a memorable time. I felt really at home and safe in the places we visited and with the people. When travelling with a family, that’s definitely an important factor to consider.

AbramsFamilyWorldTravel Tip: A Note for runners - I wouldn't recommend jogging or running through the city, particularly after 8am. There's too much traffic and pollution and too many traffic lights, not to mention the dog poop on the pavements. Head for the parks. One of the best is Parque 3 de Febrero, also known as The House of Sports. There you can run around 1km path that circles a boating lake. It's safe and you'll be joined by cyclists, roller-bladers and walkers. You can run on the tarmac, grass or gravel. 

Argentina: Random Costs

As we near the end of our stay in Argentina, we have been reflecting on our time here, including the cost of living. When we first put Argentina on our itinerary we had simultaneously found reports that claimed it was one of the cheapest countries in the world to live. We haven't found that to be the case. Granted most of our visit here has been during peak season, which has mostly affected the cost of our accommodation. But in an attempt to put our daily expenses into perspective I have chosen some random items that we have purchased whilst here.

Short-term rental apartment in Bs.As. for 1 month (1bdrm - off peak) -$4,000 ARS (£632)

2 large baguettes - $2.50 ARS (39p)

Children's Argentina football shirt - $45 ARS (£7)

Hostel, 1 night for 3 people - $152 - $228 ARS (£24 - £36)

Bag of lentils - $5.50 ARS (87p)

Notebook and markers - $17 ARS (£2.69)

Box of incense sticks - $11 ARS (£1.73)

1 hour pregnancy massage - $135 ARS (£21) 

Pizza (large) - $20 ARS (£3.16)

Bag of washed laundry - $15 ARS (£2.37)

Towel hire (in hostel) - $10 ARS (£1.58)

Entrance to National Park - $4 ARS (63p)

Subte (metro, underground) ride for 3 - $3.30 ARS (52p)

Taxi ride across town (Bs.As.) - $25 ARS (£3.95)

Sorbet (2 scoops) - $5.50 ARS (87p)

Organic olive oil 500ml - $24 ARS (£3.80)

1kg tomatoes - $4.50 ARS (71p)

Toilet paper - $3.20 ARS (50p)

3 Falafel sandwiches - $51 ARS (£8)

What sorts of things would you like us to feature in upcoming 'Random Costs' posts?

Montañita: The good, the bad and the mucky

This is a real surfer’s village with fit, scantily-clad young men and women/girls casually walking through the muddy streets barefooted. 

Zenchai felt so proud to take off his shoes and socks as he made his way around. 

There’s an abundance of hostals – seems every other building is one – restaurants and bars. The beach is long, sandy and pretty clean, the waves impressive and the water inviting. Beware the immensely strong undercurrent, though. Make sure children play only in the shallow water. 

Contrary to what you may have read, Montañita is suitable for families. It does get loud at night – where in Ecuador isn’t? – but make sure you stay away from the hub of the village for a quietish night. 

The trip to Montañita from Guayaquil, on a luxury bus, is inexpensive (around $5.50 per person) and smooth. It takes around 3 ½ hours. As soon as you arrive expect to be mobbed by muscular locals offering to carry your luggage to a hostal (presumably to collect a reward). There are good and bad ones. Do your research and try to book in advance, though this can be tricky as some don’t have email or internet and, as we found, failed to even answer the phone. 

We stayed at Hostal Kundalini, which looked brilliant on their sophisticated, multi-lingual website. None of the staff spoke English, which wasn’t so much a problem as them not being particularly friendly or amenable. 

As we’ve found on numerous occasions, what’s on the label often isn’t in the tin. There was no hot water and on the first night a power failure meant no electricity or wifi. Breakfast at Kundalini was basic and there’s no choice – it’s scrambled eggs on toast with tea or coffee. We, therefore, ate out, which didn’t seem fair given breakfast was included in the price. We also didn’t like the fact that Kundalini charged $8 per night for Zenchai, who’s still only three (if only for a few more days). 

However, Kundalini is quieter than most other hostals (if you get the right neighbour). Instead of listening to holiday-makers and surfers in town, you get the sound of crashing waves (that are almost on your doorstep). I know which I’d prefer. 

In terms of eating out, there is plenty of choice and the prices vary also. For vegans there are two vegetarian restaurants in town and several other establishments offered vegetarian options. We ate at a nice vegetarian restaurant (with ample vegan dishes) that provided a two-course meal for three people at $9. At some places we paid twice that amount. 

Abrams Family Travel Tips: Make sure you have enough cash or a credit card as there isn’t a bank (but there is a cash machine). If it rains be prepared for a mudbath – the roads aren’t good and the place gets flooded and immensely mucky quickly. For that reason, avoid bringing luggage on wheels and, if you do, have the type of bag that can easily double as a backpack.

Travellers Cheques ~ Ecuador

 

I recall the words from the television advert in the 1980s: “American Express. That’ll do nicely.” I was always told, too, that American Express Travellers Cheques were a safe and efficient way of travelling with money. Not in Ecuador.

I’ve been from one bank to another in Loja, 40km away, and only one bank (Produbanco) has changed my cheques for me, but with a limit per day. So I’ve had to make multi-trips – a one-hour bus journey each way – to have my travellers cheques cashed. Today, however, I walked into the bank and the teller told me they were out of cash – come back another day.

It’s a nuisance. I’d certainly suggest another method for dealing with money in Ecuador. Also, few places here accept credit cards.

Abrams Family Travelling Tip: Give Travellers Cheques a miss if you are planning to visit Ecuador.