Abrams Family World Travel

World Travel: Groundhog Day

TEN pm and we were driving around Auckland when we should have been in the sky, on our way from New Zealand to Vancouver, Canada.

We had been sitting at the gate for our international flight when my name was called over the loudspeaker.

Jamie and I glanced at each other, thinking 'what could this be about?'

I was soon to find out. 

When I got to the Air New Zealand representatives, I was told we couldn't fly - because we didn't have an onward-bound ticket from Canada.

We were going to Canada for three months, everything booked, and were not sure of our next move, so left it open.

I check for small details like this before planning trips. And while it's clearly stated before entering countries like Australia and New Zealand that you need an onward-bound ticket, I didn't read anything similar for Canada. Well, apparently you do. I must have missed this one. 

So after representatives failed to help me sort it out as time approached for us to board, I was advised to go to the internet counter and book a flight. Any flight.

With time ticking, I searched the net for a good deal, but there was nothing cheap and when I finally nailed a flight (which wasn't cheap), my credit card denied the transaction. I suppose the fee was too large and it flagged up a security warning. It's great to know my credit card people are watching out for fraudsters, but it didn't help me on this occasion.

I was resigned to defeat. There wasn't enough time left. I returned to the airline counter and explained what had happened. Out came the manager, all apologetic but firm, doing her job and explaining we had to come off the flight.

"So what next?" I asked.

"You'll have to get another flight," she replied.

"You mean buy another one?" I asked.

"Possibly," she said.

This was now going from huge inconvenience to disaster. But I managed to stay calm. I accepted our fate and had to fill in landing cards, as though we had all arrived in New Zealand, in order to go through immigration and passport control to collect our luggage etc.

It took forever. Soon Jamie and the kids, all looking tired and a bit flummoxed, joined me.

We made our way back, finding it hard not to think about the prospect of doing it all again the next day. There was good news around the corner, though. It turned out we didn't have to buy new flights and that we would be put on the same flight 24 hours later, so long as we had proof of an onward-bound journey in Canada.

All of us were hungry. We finally got through to the main airport area, where we had to wait to be reunited with our bags and then sort out paperwork for the flight the next day.

Another manager came over to me to explain the situation, saying that ALL non-Canadian and non-American citizens must have onward-bound flights upon arrival in Canada. That means Kobra and I, since Zenchai has an American passport. 

Then more good news - he said the airline (Air New Zealand) would put us up in a hotel for the night and pay for the taxis etc, which was a relief given our cab meter was at NZ$84 by the time we arrived.

So we waited, snacking on apples and letting the kids run around the busy airport, until finally we had taxi and hotel vouchers presented to us.

We loaded ourselves into a cab and set off, only for the taxi driver to end up in the wrong part of town.

Eventually, we got there - too late for any dinner. Quickly, I sent a message to the person who had offered to fetch us from Vancouver airport, hoping she'd get it in time. We then just stripped off and got into bed. What a day. 

The next morning I was on the internet checking out flights until a friend (and travel agent) helped me out. We were all set.

Slowly, we made our way through the day. I took Zenchai to a nearby park to allow him to exert some energy and work his legs in readiness for 13 hours on an airplane.

Eventually, the time came to again set off for the airport - 15 minutes away. We arrived in good time, produced our documents showing we would be leaving Canada, and headed on through to the gate once more.

It was a tough flight, though. None of us, except for Kobra, really slept. Zenchai was over-tired and probably over-stimulated from the in-flight entertainment. Air New Zealand is a great airline, but we struggled through to Canada.

Upon arrival, the immigration lines were long. We queued until an officer saw Jamie nursing Kobra and pulled us out to a faster track.

But the immigration officer grilled us. "Where are you staying?" "How are you affording this?" "How long have you been travelling?" What sort of work do you do?" "Where was your daughter born?" "Does she have a Brazilian passport?" "Can I see it?" etc.

That wasn't the end of it. We were then pulled out of line again, this time to have our bags searched. It appeared like a random procedure, but I didn't think we particularly looked like smugglers.

In the end, though, the officer asked some more questions, took our passports, presumably ran a few checks and came back satisfied. 

We were in Vancouver, safely. It was colder than in New Zealand - cloudy with drizzle, but not as cold as I had anticipated. We arrived at our home for the next three months, a cosy Laneway Home, and slowly settled in. Seasoned travellers we may all be, but it still doesn't get any easier. 

New Zealand: 19 Days On The Road With Two Children

IT didn't exactly start perfectly, with Zenchai throwing a tizzy in a car park in Christchurch (a case of being too hungry). But it only could get better from there. And, thankfully, it did.

Some 3,404km and nearly three weeks later, we'd explored New Zealand's stunning South Island, crossed the Cook Strait back to the North Island, and driven up to Auckland.

The landscape in NZ is overwhelmingly spectacular. Each day, when I thought it couldn't get any better, it did. Often we'd see ice-capped mountains, rolling green hills, blue lakes - all in the same location!

The roads, especially on the South Island, were practically empty. No traffic jams. There were occasional, though brief, roadworks. But it was a pleasure getting around.

However, we tried not to be on the road too long each day (between two and three hours) to save our children from boredom and confinement. Often we'd time the driving for when Kobra would take her nap. 

We did most of our camping in DOC (Department of Conservation) campsites. We received a booklet when we hired our Rocket rental vehicle and each night aimed for a DOC site near where we aimed to stop.

The sites are all relatively cheap (around NZ$15 per night) and in some extraordinary locations. The entry fee goes towards maintenance of the sites. Facilities are usually quite basic. We did most of our bathing in chilly but stunning, picture-postcard lakes or rivers. For shaving, I would try to find a public toilet en route or use the reflection of the car windows as my mirror. 

We were mostly fortunate with the weather. It was summer time after all. We hardly saw rain the first week and there were just a few days when we were washed out. 

The rain would also make it harder for sleeping. Not only did it sound loud pounding on the roof, but our canopy at the back of the vehicle would, in the case of a heavy downpour, leak a little. We just turned ourselves around, so our heads were in the middle of the vehicle rather than the back.

But, generally, we all slept reasonably well. We were tightly packed, but that was great on the few chilly nights when the skies were clear. 

In campsites there would often be children for ours to play with. We could see Zenchai's confidence growing in approaching other youngsters. He had a ball. So did Kobra. One day when we stayed by the amazing Lake Hawea, north of Queenstown, Zenchai just walked over to some children and the next thing we knew he was on a speedboat trip. He just took off on the lake. We laughed about how our son was off with some strangers we'd never met. But we felt sure he was safe and loving it. I heard him brag to one other child as he boarded the boat, "I've been on a ship called the Sea Shepherd. It's a real pirate ship, you know?" 

However, Kobra fell asleep while Zenchai was out on the water and, because we needed to get going, Jamie and I started looking at each other, thinking 'How long is he going to be out there?' 

In the end, I had to kayak to the boat (using a kayak our camping neighbours had kindly offered to us) to get Zenchai back. Like those neighbours, the people we met along our trip were always friendly. I found customer service in NZ to be outstanding, too. The Kiwis are a welcoming bunch. 

Starting in Christchurch, we headed south to Dunedin, where we visited this steepest street in the world and observed the endangered yellow-eyed penguins and seals at a special conservation.

From there we made our way across land, via Gore towards Te Anau, where there is a fabulous lake and we stayed the night. The following day we headed north to the unforgettably stunning Milford Sound in Fiordland, taking in the mountains, valleys and breathtaking scenery. 

There is just one road there, Milford Sound being the only fiord accessible by land. Make sure you fill your vehicle with petrol before you head there as there are no gas stations. 

We headed back towards Te Anau, camping by a river for the night at Deer Flat. The next day we ventured towards Queenstown, which was more spectacular than I ever imagined.

Although it's full of young people on adrenaline rushes (lots of adventure-type activities going on here) and a ski town in the winter, Queenstown is beautiful. The water, almost turquoise in parts, reminded me of Europe's fantastic Adriatic Sea. 

Queenstown can be expensive, so we headed out for our next stop at another special DOC campsite at Moke Lake.

The next day, after passing through sparkling Wanaka, we stayed at Kidds Bush at Hawea Conservation Park, again by the lake. It was also breathtaking.

We didn't feel disappointed until the next day, when we camped out at Paringa Lake and got ambushed by sand flies. We had been warned. But it didn't help. It was so severe they came through into the car during the night along with mosquitoes. We slept mostly with covers over our faces and then Jamie and I made an executive decision first thing in the morning - to sling everything in the back of the car and get out as fast as we could! 

On the next stage of our journey we passed through the gold-mining town of Ross, which is apparently sitting on NZ$700 million of the precious metal. Zenchai got his own mining pan and gave it a go in the nearby river, excitedly hoping he'd get rich. No such luck. 

By the time we reached Hokitika further up the west coast, rain was on its way. For the second night running (but for different reasons) our sleep was broken. But the kids didn't seem to be affected much. With rain lashing down, we took to the roads and, because we couldn't see a great deal, just kept driving, getting as far as Motueka.

There, we found a decent campsite, full of children for Zenchai and Kobra to play with. The next day we headed to Golden Bay in the impressive Abel Tasman National Park, where we had the beach to ourselves. The sun was out, but the wind fresh. Zenchai and I did some sprint training and then built sandcastles.

We moved on to Kaiteriteri, staying in the Bethany Park campsite where they offered a family deal for only NZ$20. Zenchai made friends again. He was playing football in the dark. The next morning, with the sun shining gloriously, we headed for the beach before hitting the roads, passing through Nelson as we proceeded north. 

Hours of driving took us to Rarangi, where we stopped at the remote Whites Bay. It took some finding, going up lots of winding roads. That night, before dinner, firemen came to our site to warn us of a possible Tsunami from the earthquake in the Soloman Islands. The beach was closed. But nothing happened. 

It wasn't far from there to catch the ferry across the Strait from Picton, where there is an excellent kids playground. Luckily for us the Strait was calm (ish). It was a glorious day. By 4.30pm we were in Wellington again. We didn't stop, instead heading onwards Otaki, where we camped at Otaki Forks, a gorgeous spot in the Tararua Forest Park. We had the place to ourselves and a glorious river to bathe in the next morning - though it was the coldest plunge pool I'd ever experienced!

We did a spot of shopping in Otaki at outlet malls, especially for Icebreaker clothing as we equipped ourselves for our next stop, Vancouver. Icebreaker clothing is expensive (it supposedly doesn't smell from prolonged use), but there were some great deals.

Our journey took us back to Napier, where we stayed with friends for three nights, having intended to be there only two. We just couldn't bring ourselves to leave and I got to revisit CrossFit Napier - three times!!

From Napier it was a two-hour drive to Taupo, where we stopped for lunch, and then another 90 minutes to Tauranga, where we ended up at a caravan park not typical of the places we had frequented on the rest of our journey. It was cheap (NZ$20), but the notice in the kitchen warning about theft in the area didn't exactly make us feel at home.

The nearer to Auckland we went, the more traffic we encountered. Tauranga, for instance, was surprisingly congested. We ended up racing the clock a little to reach our hostel in Auckland, buy food for dinner and our flight out of New Zealand the next day and then take our rental Rocket to a car wash before dropping it off by 4pm.

We made it without a hitch. The staff at Spaceship (Rocket) were friendly as ever. They didn't baulk at the broken tent either. It was a (standard) NZ$25 cab fare back to the hostel as we entered our final 24 hours in New Zealand. 

In terms of travel highlights since we departed the UK over three years ago, New Zealand is right up there at the top. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

World Travel: Surviving Motion Sickness

I'M not the worst in our family for motion sickness. I recall years ago, when on holiday in Mauritius on a deep-sea fishing trip (my pre-vegan days), being sick the entire time (about six hours). And as a kid, when we used to take family trips through Europe, I'd often have my head hanging out of the window of my dad's Renault 16 (especially on winding roads) or whatever model he had at the time.

But Zenchai's in a different league. He'll get sick if we go over a speed bump! No, I'm exagerating the point, but the little guy is terribly sensitive to motion sickness. He's okay on city buses, trains, quad bikes and Indian/Thai tuk-tuks, but fast taxis, bumpy aeroplane rides, rough ferry crossings and long-distance coaches in particular have his little guts stewing.

What prompted this blog was our trip down from Auckland to beautiful Napier by coach on New Year's Day. I thought it was a relatively smooth one, but not Zenchai. 

About two hours into the journey, after he'd chowed down a few peanut butter sandwiches (not the Stig sandwiches he's pictured with above) for breakfast, he started to feel ill. 

I noticed the signs - the frequent yawning. But we didn't react fast enough. Zenchai complained he wasn't feeling well. Jamie, sat in front of us with Kobra, started searching for a bag and then handed it to me. I tried getting it open. But it was too late. As I fumbled trying to find the bag opening, Zenchai projectile vommited all over himself and me. Yuck!

Then something amazing happened. An Australian passenger travelling alone (a man and father of two teenage boys) quickly dashed to the rescue and offered his help!

Armed with a bag of baby wipes, I accepted his assistance (of course) and handed them to him. Between us, we managed to mop up most of the sick. 

We've been through this scenario before, especially when in Ecuador, where the roads are winding and the drivers handle them like maniacs.

So armed with some experience, here are our tips for surviving motion sickness with children.

1. Don't read.

2. Get fresh air (if possible).

3. Watch the road and get a seat near the front if on a coach or bus.

4. Get your child to sleep if he or she can.

5. Travel on an empty stomach (which is contrary to a lot of advice, but just my experience). If you must eat, try potato chips (we don't usually eat them, but they apparently work for those with sensitive guts and we tried it recently on Zenchai - with success)

6. Carry extra clothing.

7. Make sure you have sick bags.

8. Take baby wipes or something to clean up a mess with.

After Zenchai had emptied the contents of his belly, he was pretty much okay. He at least survived the remaining three hours on the road, though Kobra had her turn and spat up all over Jamie, who isn't a great coach traveller either.

But don't let all of this put you off embarking on long travels with your children. After all, if we can survive then surely anyone can. 

 

Melbourne: Happy Campers?

NEITHER Jamie nor I are exactly what you'd call natural or hardened campers. We did a short  stint in Costa Rica several years ago. About a year ago I camped alone while Living On Light in Brazil and Jamie and Zenchai did some camping up in Yorkshire one time.

As a teenager, I also went on family camping holidays down in the south of France and Jamie did the same in the US with her family when growing up, but that's the extent of our experience.

We thought camping on the Mornington Peninsula, not far from Melbourne, would make not just a change to our norm (whatever that is, considering we've been going nearly three years), but also present us with some fresh family experiences and challenges and a greater appreciation of what we have and do not have. There's also the fact that the cost of camping (during off-peak season) is far less than renting an apartment or staying in a hotel (Australia is not cheap).

However, when our good friends (who generously provided all the camping equipment) dropped us off at the camping grounds and helped erect the tent, Jamie had the sort of look on her face that was equal to being left stranded in the Black Hole of Calcutta.

Of course, Rosebud, where we are, is nothing like India - not even close. But I think Jamie was trying to get her bearings and wondering in those early moments how that was going to be accomplished with bits and pieces all around her (she likes things neat and organised) and the night sky closing in.

But, with time, we've grown into our tent home. It's safe here (relatively, even though a truck stopped one morning and pinched our dish soap) and our kids can roam around and play without us having to check in every minute. And our fellow campers are, so far, very friendly and helpful. 

We are in bed early and rise early, too. With us all sleeping together and darkness and a night chill setting in around 8pm, there's no other way. We're getting used to sound of the nearby road traffic and the birds that live around us. Zenchai helps Kobra with her afternoon nap by walking her around in a pushchair we (also) borrowed.

We're getting plenty of sleep, fresh air, sunshine and quality family time (although Jamie and I seldom get a break together from the kids for too long, which is a drawback to this style of travel). 

Nonetheless, it's healthy to spend most of our days outdoors and until we borrowed some bikes about a week into our stay, we were legging it everywhere, which, for me, meant a one-hour trek to my Crossfit Mornington Peninsula classes and back each morning. Now, by bike, it takes only 20 minutes, which serves as a useful warm-up and warm-down. Jamie does the afternoon classes.

Zenchai is pedalling around all the time on a bike a little too small for him, but it more than does the job. His lanky legs go up and down like pistons. And he's loving it now that he has learned how to skid. He plays with whatever children he can find and is experiencing a greater sense of freedom, while Kobra just wonders and explores her surroundings as well as chipping in with some dish-washing and trying on everyone's shoes!

Only the other day we went for our first ever bike ride all together. Kobra was so excited to be in her seat behind her mother. There are trails all along the shoreline.

Melbourne weather, however, is unpredictable at the best of times and the change from warm to cold during the first week (it is still spring, after all) had us in out of different clothing all day. As one camper told us, "don't complain about the Melbourne weather, just wait 10 minutes."

On rainy days (we've had periods of drizzle, but nothing more) we were confined to the tent, but since erecting a fantastic gazebo over our kitchen area (Jamie and I failed miserably in trying to put up a more complicated one first of all), life has really perked up. We no longer have to worry about looming black clouds while Jamie or I is cooking or preparing food. We have a fridge, electric cooker, rice cooker and blender.

We found a local library and now have access to dozens of books for the kids. It's also where we get (free) internet access. 

Across the road from us is a well-stocked supermarket, too, so it's not the sort of camping experience Bear Grylls would probably get a kick out of. Less than 100m from us is a beach with shallow (albeit cold) water. 

The water in the showers, however, is piping hot, which is spectacularly luxurious on cool days, though camping is never short of testing moments, like when in the middle of the night you need the toilet and it's cold and pitch black, as well as keeping the bedding and eating area clean when you have young children, particularly one so obsessed in manufacturing dust.

We are restricted also in getting around this region. While there is plenty to do like fruit-picking and visiting the leisure centre, getting there on bikes isn't so straightforward (with young kids) even if there are cycle lanes everywhere. The bus service isn't as dependable or widespread as in the city.

But, slowly, we are finding our way - around the area and in the art of camping!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Australia: Sydney To Melbourne By Campervan

WE set off with a great sense of excitement, the buzz one gets from anticipating a completely new and long-anticipated experience.

By the time we had finished - 1,126 km later - we were all pretty whacked and with butt pains. If we were to take this journey again, I would certainly allow at least six or seven days.

There are many stunning spots along the way and things to do and see. But we had only four days to make the journey and around 300km to cover each day. With children, we tried to make frequent stops or time the driving around when Kobra would take her naps. Sometimes this meant passing by towns we would otherwise have stopped at and looked around. In truth, I underestimated the length and time of the journey.

Having said that, it was a great trip and experience. Australia is a vast and magnificent country and there are fewer better ways to sample that than on wheels.

For the economically-minded, you may want to consider doing it our way. We opted for a relocation vehicle return - that is a rental vehicle that has been driven one-way and needs to be taken back to its original location. Although it is often advertised as 'free', it isn't. Still, it's cheaper and more enjoyable than flying.

Usually these deals crop up at the last moment, so I kept tabs on several websites before landing a 4-berth Toyota Mobile Home with standbyrelocs.com.

It was really simple to book. I saw the vehicle I wanted (which matched the dates available for me) and telephoned. I did most of it over the phone, received confirmation and details by email and turned up on the designated day to collect the vehicle.

Considering that flights from Sydney to Melbourne are around $250 per adult, our total outlay came to around $400 for two adults and two children.

This included hiring a baby seat for $30, a Sat Nav for $10 per day and reducing my insurance excess to $100 from $1,000 by forking out $18 per day. We also received $150 worth of petrol free (make sure you keep your receipts), which meant my share of the fuel costs came to approximately $100. The other significant outlay was for powered sites at camping grounds, which ranged from between $35-$40 per night. And camping grounds along Princes Highway are easy to find.

The relocation staff were very professional. Zenchai and I took the bus and then train from Five Dock, Sydney, where we were based, to Mascot, where we collected the vehicle. While the paperwork was being processed, we were given a mini laptop to watch a video about how the camper operated.

Zenchai and I drove back to Five Dock to collect Jamie, Kobra and the luggage and then we were on our way, targeting Lake Tabourie as our first stop, though it took us a long time on a Friday afternoon to get out of Sydney.

We arrived in Lake Tabourie just as the sun was going down and the campsite reception was closing its doors.

It was a fantastic spot, which only really became apparent in the morning, when (after a fairly rough night sleeping - temperatures dropped dramatically) we saw the ocean and the river. The way they combined - with the bright blue sky - reminded us of our time in Piracanga, Brazil.

On that first night we made a makeshift dinner (protein bars Jamie had made before the journey, plus some toast and a protein shake each) and then got the camper ready for bedtime.

For two persons these campers are perfectly adequate, but with four it's challenging, especially when you have two lively kids dancing around (as you can imagine after being couped up) and more luggage than available room.

Kobra tipped over a tub of dried mulberries and then her protein drink spilled all over a cushion. Then Kobra knocked Jamie, while she was devouring some coconut yoghurt, and that ended up over Jamie and the furniture. Needless to say, our first evening was one of serious adjustment.

Although the camper came better equipped than many apartments we had rented, it was tight for space once the bedding was down. Kobra tripped over my foot at one point and hurtled down the gap by the sliding door. Zenchai was up and down the bunk ladder, thinking he was in a playground, and trying to build with cushions.

We finally got to bed around 10pm - Jamie and the kids down below while I squeezed myself - literally - on to a shelf above. With barely enough room to turn, I somehow got through the night and dragged my aching body out in the morning, yearning for the nearby toilets (nice and clean), while the kids still slept, of course. 

For the children the campsite was great also, not just for playing on the beach and by the water, but because the facilities for young ones are outstanding. We gave Zenchai and Kobra time to burn some energy in the playground before we departed.

Back on the road, with Jamie and Kobra in the rear and Zenchai beside me as my navigator, we headed for Pambula Beach. We were lucky with the weather the whole way. It had been raining in Sydney when we departed, but became progressively brighter as we headed towards Melbourne.

At the end of the second day we reached Pambula Beach with enough daylight for the kids to play while Jamie prepared dinner. Again, the facilities were first class and we had the added attraction of wild kangaroos EVERYWHERE. So, too, were kangaroo droppings!

Although the camp staff said to keep away from the kangaroos and pay them little attention, I couldn't resist being fascinated, so the morning after our arrival - this time Zenchai slept up top and I joined Jamie and Kobra down below - I took the kids for a closer look. The kangaroos weren't afraid. They even came sniffing around our camper - for food, of course.

Each day was a quest for balance and co-ordination - giving the kids enough play time and preparing meals while they did so. Ideally, though, we'd have stayed a day or two at each camp site or gone into town to see what was on offer or spent more time at the beach. And the surrounding areas offered great trekking and outdoor pursuits. The options were endless.

On day three our intended target was Lakes Entrance. The roads were long and mostly straight. We passed through a pretty town called Eden, famous for whale-spotting and I wish we'd had time to visit the Killer Whale museum. Eventually, we stopped for lunch by the water in Mallacoota, which is a 20km detour off Princes Highway but well worth it. Everyone, except me, of course, napped as we passed mile after mile of national forest. Road signs warning against tiredness were everywhere. Often we seemed like the only vehicle on the road.

By the time we reached Lakes Entrance, we had a few more hours of daylight remaining, so we ventured further, to make our drive on the final day less daunting, and stopped for the night in the town of Sale.

It was another chilly evening. This time we all huddled together in sleeping bags to keep warm and got up early, with frost on the windscreen, in readiness for the remaining 200km.

Zenchai was excited to reach Melbourne, because there he would be staying with friends of Jamie's who have three boys.

We made it ahead of schedule. I dropped off Jamie and the kids then headed into Melbourne to return the vehicle, get my deposit back and then, by train, find my way to the family for the beginning of the next chapter of our journey.

 

 

Sydney: No Blues In The Mountains

FREQUENTLY we are asked how, financially, we are able to keep travelling the way we do.

It's a perfectly valid question, of course. But the answer is we have to be prudent with our funds and also find creative ways of making our bucks stretch further.

One way has been house-sitting, which we have been doing for nearly three years and involves caring for someone's home (and, usually, pets) while they are away, giving the owners peace of mind that their home is and animals are safe in their absence. In return, we get free accommodation, which is one of our biggest costs. 

We are members on two websites - trustedhousesitters.com and housecarers.com - and apply when we see house-sitting jobs become available where we are travelling or about to travel. We pride ourselves on doing a good job and leaving homes cleaner than when we arrived.

We have come to meet some genuinely amazing, gracious and generous people this way and see and stay in fantastic places from Notting Hill to Brecon to Huddersfield to Kuala Lumpur. Our most recent assignment was in the Blue Mountains, about an hour outside of Sydney. We stayed there - in a beautiful family home - 11 days, looking after a dog, rabbits and a hen.

It's a spectacular part of Australia, hence the advertising promo for the region which reads, "Easy to get to. Impossible to forget". The Blue Mountains is so called because of the density of Eucalyptus trees which emit into the atmosphere droplets of oil which, when combined with dust particles and water vapour, form rays of light that are predominantly blue.

There is so much to see and do in the region that you could live here years and not scratch the surface, so we took the more popular options, starting with the famous Three Sisters near Katoomba, which was about 45 minutes drive from where we stayed in Warrimoo.

The Blue Mountains covers some one million hectares and became a World Heritage site 12 years ago. In it you will see trees that have been around from before mankind and cave systems that have survived 350 million years.

At Echo Point in Katoomba is a large visitor centre and observation area where you can get the best views of The Three Sisters - three rock formations, each over 900m tall, that stand out side by side with a massive open landscape as a backdrop.

Aboriginal folklore says the rocks were three sisters who were turned to stone.

There is a walkway that extends for miles, it seems, around the cliff edge. It is all perfectly safe, spotless and perfectly maintained.

We didn't have time to see everything on our first visit, so returned to take in the Scenic Railway - the world's steepest incline railway - a cableway that takes you back to the top and a Scenic Skyway, another cable ride. You can purchase a ticket for all three with discounted rates for families and if you arrive before 11am.

Zenchai was particularly fascinated by the history of gold mining in the area and the log cabins for workers that have been preserved and some of the other equipment that was used.

Katoomba itself is a quiant little town that has a giant screen cinema (six stories high) showing film of the region's environmental value, but we didn't have time to check this out.

Fresh and organic food-lovers should make a trip to the food co-op on Ha'Penny Lane, just off the main high street, though we also found other stores in the region offering a wide and good selection of fruits, vegetables and such items.

Another destination we visited was Wentworth Falls, which, like in Katoomba, has special views and dramatic trails.

Being in the mountains was cooler than in the city. It felt so much fresher and healthier. We took several local walks, on one occasion - foolishly as it turned out - trying to follow a 5km trail from the house we were sitting, but got lost as the sun started to go down.

Thankfully, we came across a family riding their horses and they kindly offered to drive us most of the way back. Only then did we realise how far we had come - with Zenchai on foot and me carrying Kobra - and that the shortcut back to our 'home' would have involved scrambling through a overgrown bush trail.

As serious snakes and poisonous insects live in the region, the local lady thought better of suggesting we try this and dropped off all of us - dog included - where we could make it back safely, which we did. But, as someone once wrote, "If everything always went to plan there would be no adventures"!

Ubud: Driving Rules? There Are No Rules

MY heading is a bit misleading, but there are certain things you need to know before taking to the roads here. Of course, there are rules. It's not complete chaos - like driving in India or Cairo. But at times it feels like it. Actually, most of the time.

It doesn't help most of the roads are so narrow and full of holes and that there are scores of motorbikes, most of which overtake without hesitation on the inside and out. Near-misses are a daily occurrence. Jamie refuses to drive here.

At least the Balinese mostly wear helmets (which isn't the case in Chiang Mai, for instance). But you see three or four people to a bike and sometimes a parent carrying a small child who is fast asleep!

There is plenty of pollution because traffic in the centre can build up. We keep the windows up and AC on when we get into town - even though we dislike using AC. 

But driving in this charming town is made a little harder because our cheap car rental doesn't have much oomph. Just the other day it conked out going up a steep hill. I had to yank up the handbrake and start it up again with a long line of impatient traffic behind me. Even in first gear and with plenty of gas, it choked its way up.

Much of the time our Suzuki feels like a tank. It's not quite swift enough to dodge the barking mutts out in the street, some of whom just laze in the road and don't even move as you approach, which doesn't help when you need to swerve around it and a vehicle is approaching from the opposite direction. Then there are all the chickens, roosters, the pedestrians, children, people carrying large loads…you really need to have your wits about you.

If you get out of town, you might encounter cattle and pigs along the road, too. We've found the signposting in some more remote areas out of town almost non-existent. It's really a case of knowing your geography, having a map and asking directions. But I've been advised to always get a second opinion. Balinese are polite people, so will give you any direction rather than say they don't know.

At major junctions it is not clear who has the right of way. I really couldn't figure it out. In the end, I just forced my way out. Then I read an article from a local trying to make sense of it. She said it's about eye contact! That didn't help me, seeing most cars have tinted windows and motorcyclists helmets. Big trucks and buses usually won't take their turn, so beware!

If a car flashes you in England, it usually means the car is letting you pass. But here it signals the opposite. I got caught out a few times and it's hairy.

And if a car puts on its hazard lights at a junction it usually means the vehicle is going straight and not that it has a problem. 

Parking can be a hassle as well. With the roads being so narrow, you need to find either an official parking spot or stop to the side, leaving enough space for passing traffic. 

Be careful not to go too far to the side on the small side streets, because they all have deep gutters (used for burning litter). Once you're in there, you're not coming out - without the help of a tow truck. I've seen a few motorbikes being fished out.

And in the centre of town, where it's really busy, parking is harder. In some areas if you find a spot (not too difficult early in the day), the chances are you will be charged, though the fee is minimal. Don't bother trying to argue because there are no signs saying you must pay to park. 

However, I did complain when parking at the Monkey Forest for that very reason. Someone just turned up as we left and demanded payment. I told him he needed to inform me in advance and not when I had finished. 

But that's how things work around here. If they can extract another 1,000 rupees from you they will. 

When all is said and done, having a car (even our slow one, pictured above) is better than not having one - unless you are located centrally.

The alternative is taking taxis and, as visitors, we've been overcharged several times. Bargain hard with them. Everyone here seems to be a taxi driver. 

Although I prefer to walk when I can, it isn't always an easy option, particularly in heat and with young children. In places there are no pavements and where there are, often they are horribly uneven. 

Zenchai, for one, prefers getting around by car, but that's because he didn't enjoy the street dogs all barking at him.

The Balinese people aren't so aggressive, though. In fact, they are on the whole very friendly. And even on the roads, it's more a case of volume of traffic and disorder and worn road surfaces than terrible driving which makes getting around feel so perilous. However, my wife isn't convinced about how capable the Balinese are of controlling their vehicles. 

Ubud: Renting A Home

HAVING now found a place to stay for the remainder of our time in Bali, we are wiser than we were before our arrival. We did as we have done in most new locations and checked into a hotel for a few days (five in this case), the idea being to give ourselves time to see (house-wise) what was on offer.

Prior to arriving in Ubud, we searched online to see what was available and with anyone we knew living in town (we had some friends here). Most, if not all, online options, particularly short-term, were too expensive.

We thought five days would be sufficient to score a home. But, as ever, not everything went to plan. We followed our leads, the main one being to check the large notice boards (try outside most of the health food shops and restaurants/cafes: Bali Buddha, a local and popular cafe; Down To Earth; Alchemy, a raw food joint; Kafe and the public library). We made some inquiries and then waited for return calls or positive responses.

Nothing much happened, though. People in the property market told us that nothing much within walking distance of the town centre was available for what a low-budget family like ourselves desired.

If you have money - and many visitors who come here do - then there is plenty around. Ubud caters well for the wealthy. You can have stunning views, tranquility and a swimming pool. 

But with our five-day hotel stay rapidly reaching an end and no house or villa to stay in, we had to reassess.

We wanted a home that was clean, safe, with a kitchen (to self-cater) and some space for the kids to play. Too much to ask for? 

We booked a few more days in a hotel (but a different one, which meant re-packing and lugging our stuff literally across the street) and opted to rent a car, the idea being that with more mobility we could conduct a search further afield.

Finding a car was relatively easy (several phone calls) and cheap - only £5 per day - but you get what you pay for. When was the last time you drove a car with a choke? And our Suzuki rattled as it drove and felt like the wheels would fall off every time I hit one of the many pot-holes along the road!

With wheels, we cast our net wider and finally had some success when inquiring about an ad we saw posted at a hair salon near Sopa, another cafe where we like to eat. The two-floor house in a quiet neighbourhood was about 4km from the centre, where it can be too noisy.

We checked it out, liked the place and the price (around £10 per day, including water and electricity) and concluded the deal. 

For anyone on a tight budget heading to Ubud, I'd recommend hiring a vehicle (or motorcycle if you don't have children) and heading away from the centre of town. There you get much more for your money. 

Pai: A Slice Of Relaxation

SEVEN hundred and sixty two stomach-churning bends later and I was in Pai, a hippy town three hours north of Chiang Mai.

I'd had my fill of sitting, scrunched up and sweating, at the back of a poorly-ventilated mini-van with a driver who, if I didn't know better, had been hired from Ecuador, where they all drive like they are late for dinner.

I should have known what was ahead when I saw the sick bags conveniently placed in front of every seat. But I survived. The discomfort was all worth it and for £3 I couldn't really complain. 

Pai is set amidst trees and sloping green, lush hills. From the balcony of my hotel room, I could see the beautiful landscape and hear the river flowing. This getaway was my birthday gift from Jamie and the kids - yes, time off. The children cried when I gathered my bags and dropped them off at the bus station. But Jamie had felt bad that almost every year my birthday passes as a non-event, so she wanted to do something special. 

Of course, I'd have liked to celebrate surrounded by my family. But being in Pai alone was not only different, but just what I needed.

I'd considered visiting one of the southern islands instead, but didn't fancy jumping on a jet again so soon after our recent escapade to Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and, briefly, Bangkok. 

Full-time parenting is intense and so, too, is regular airline travel. I wanted/needed some reprieve. Pai hit the spot. It's laidback, has plenty to do (hiking, rafting, yoga, swimming, sightseeing etc), there are dozens of vegetarian/organic restaurants to lounge around in, massages to be had, a nice public pool (60baht/£1.10 entrance) and many nearby attractions.

At night there are street vendors selling tasty food and their handcrafted goods. It feels a little commercial, though in a far less intrusive way than other tourist towns I have visited.

Prices are more than reasonable, especially as I was visiting during the off-season when it's not swarming with visitors. I'd certainly consider coming again to Pai, but with the car sick-prone family (if I can get them here without them suffering on the journey) for a longer stay. The cost of renting is far less than in Chiang Mai.

The place reminds me of a cross between Vilcabamba, where we stayed in southern Ecuador, and Capilla Del Monte, the town outside of Cordoba, Argentina where we'd spent Christmas in 2010.

I didn't have enough time in three days to explore all this place has to offer (which is why I would like to return). The options are seemingly endless - adventure rafting, rock climbing, kayaking, mountain biking, zip line adventure, piranha fishing, elephant trekking, hot springs, waterfalls, Pai canyon, temples, cooking courses, markets, Muay Thai boxing, kung fu, tai chi, permaculture courses etc.

I was here to chill out, recharge my batteries and get a feel for the place or else I would have indulged more. I rented a bike (only 70b/£1.20) and cycled six undulating kilometres out of town to the hot springs for a nice soak, taking in some nice views and dodging elephant dung as I went.

The roads aren't especially busy. Most visitors tend to travel by moped and at certain times of day it can become a little congested, though, by comparison, Chiang Mai feels huge and noisy. 

After three days away, Chiang Mai was my next destination. This time I decided to take the local bus (cheaper but slower and longer). There is only one a day - leaving at noon. I got to the bus station early - and waited...and waited.

It did come, eventually. The bus was crammed. I looked for a seat. There were only a few. As I got closer, I realised someone had been sick there. I chose to give it a miss.

So I was back to square one, the mini-van. I got on the next one, grabbing the last available seat, probably the worst spot possible - right beside the driver. My long legs were squeezed into a tight space, shins pressed against the dashboard and my rucksack on my lap. I couldn't move my aching legs as I'd interefere with the driver changing gear. I held this position for the best part of three hours, desperate to get to Chiang Mai, counting down the kilometres as we travelled.

Oh how relieved I was to see the bus terminal in Chiang Mai and Jamie and the kids parked up, waiting. But like most rough journeys home, you feel like you need another break. 

 

 

Kuala Lumpur: The Asian Toilet Mystery

I DON'T spend my days dreaming up blogs like this. I just want to make that clear. 

This subject just came to me because on many occasions since we've been in Asia (India, Thailand and Malaysia) I've had to take Zenchai to the toilet when there has been just a hole in the ground (like the one pictured above at one of our favourite restaurants). It's otherwise known as a squat toilet and common in many other parts of the world, too.

The squat toilet itself is not a problem. Zenchai, like many young kids, has a perfect squat technique and can hold the position for hours, unlike most adults. 

There were still two things I couldn't quite figure out, though. First was the fact that when you drop your pants, often they land on a floor wet from pee or water. Yuck!

Often in these circumstances I have Zenchai take off his shorts to avoid this, but it becomes a tricky balancing act as so many of the toilets are too small for two people.

Second is the cleaning procedure. In most of these toilets there is either a bucket of water and scoop or a hose spray. These are used for flushing and washing yourself afterwards.

That's fine. But what I also noticed is that in about 90 per cent of these toilets, there wasn't a piece of paper in sight. 

So while cleaning yourself with water is easy, how do you then dry yourself and avoid walking around for the next hour in wet underwear?

Usually, Zenchai has had on his swimmers and hasn't been bothered by having a wet bottom. But on some other occasions I've had to rush off to find paper.

It transpires that the locals in Asia always carry paper with them - or at least I hope they do. And in some cases I've seen bus receipts thrown down the toilet hole - I guess any piece of paper will do.

So the important piece of advice I am offering here is that when travelling through Asia or other parts of the globe where a toilet is just a hole in the floor, make sure (a) you have a good squat and (b) carry paper with you at all times.