Abrams Family World Travel

Vancouver: Nearing The End Of A Magical Stay

OUR time in Vancouver is almost at an end. Three months has skipped by. We arrived when it was wet, grey and cold. But for the best part of the last month we have enjoyed fabulous sunshine.

The lifestyle here for individuals as well as families is pretty amazing even if the cost of living is high. Vancouver offers everything we essentially desire from a place to live - and more. The consciousness of the people here is unique. We have made good friends and discovered a tremendous sense of community. There's a side of us that is sad to be leaving. That's for sure. But we shall endeavour to take what we have enjoyed most here and try to transfer/create that in our lives wherever we go. 

The owners of the home we rented have just returned from their own adventure - in the Far East. Their time away has enabled them to reflect on their lives. Travelling does that. It offers you a unique perspective into life and the lives of others. 

Some of us use that perspective to improve our lives and those with whom we come into contact. We find that it makes us appreciate what we have. Others just melt back into their routine and the lessons learned and experiences had are quickly forgotten. 

Getting the balance right between work and play and earning money to support a family and staying healthy and spending time with our children is often times a tricky/challenging one. Usually, a compromise or two or three is required. We are still working at it.

After three-and-a-half years of moving around the world, we are returning to the UK. We don't know how long for. We don't know what the future holds. Who really does?

But we are exploring possibilities and trying to make dreams come true. I went to Vancouver for a three-month apprenticeship as a coach at CrossFit Vancouver. The course offered me everything I desired and took me to a new level. I met some incredible people. Now I'm venturing to take all I have learned and open a gym of my own, taking the best of what I have learned and experienced (from training at CrossFit gyms around the world) and making that the cornerstone of my own practice. 

Jamie, too, has her own dreams. She is already a yoga instructor, but while in Vancouver she got to enjoy Moksha yoga, a form of hot yoga, and she wants to bring that to the UK. That's an ambition she has had for several years, long before we arrived in Canada. 

All dreams start in the imagination and then are either abandoned or manifested. We are now trying to make ours a reality. 

But Vancouver will always hold a special place in our hearts. It's a magical city with wonderful, friendly and courteous people and so much to explore. Unfortunately, we only really skimmed the surface. My commitments to my apprenticeship program and our limited budget didn't afford us as much of an opportunity to journey far afield as we would have desired.

We did get to spend an amazing weekend with friends in Salt Spring Island. That, though, only convinced us that there is so much more surrounding Vancouver worth seeing.

That's for another day and another time. 

 

 

 

World Travel: Our Favourites - Three Years On

AT the end of our first year of travel, we posted a blog about our favourite spots - places, restaurants, beaches, parks and hotels, locations we’ve travelled to (including before our journey began) and have no trouble recommending. Now that over three years have passed since we started our adventure, we thought it would be a good time for an update.

Places

1. Vancouver, Canada: This city on North America's west coast offers a bit of everything. It ticked a lot of boxes for us. Nearby there's snow and beach for starters. There's an excellent public transport system, a fantastic range of organic/healthy produce, lots to do and see socially, the people are friendly, there's a large alternative schooling community, it's relatively safe and, for Canada, the weather is on the mild side. The only downside was the cost of property and renting. Otherwise, we really loved it - a lot!

2. Napier, New Zealand: Known as the 'Art Deco Capital of the World', this town on the north island is incredibly pretty. There's ocean, stunning surrounding mountains, hiking trails, wonderful rivers, clean parks, loads to do and see, little, if any, traffic, clean air and not lacking anything that we'd want in a big city.

3. Kukljica, Croatia: This little village on the island of Ugljan, across the water by ferry from Zadar, is a magical place for us. It's where I spent much of my childhood during the hot summer months. The Adriatic Sea is gorgeously salty and blue. The village has charm and lots of beautiful, though mostly rocky, bathing spots. It's wonderful during the hot season, but can be harshly cold in the winter.

4. Edinburgh, Scotland: Nice for walking, plenty to see, close to the coast, variety of restaurants, compact.

5. Lisbon, Portugal: Amazing architecture, lovely climate, great squares, economical and efficient public transport.

 

Beaches

1. Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica: Long stretches of sand without a person in sight or litter, stunning sunsets and perfect sea temperatures

2. Whale’s Tail, Costa Rica: Set in a National Park, with impressive caves you can walk through, great sand and warm seas

3. Los Frailes, Ecuador: Clear water, secluded, perfect waves, clean sand, sea temperature consistently good. All it’s missing is some shelter from the scorching sun and somewhere for refreshments (make sure you bring your own!)

4. Englishman’s Bay, Tobago: Long, intimate stretch of beautiful sandy beach with palm trees and clear green water, just where you’d imagine Robinson Crusoe making his base. There’s a shop and café on site also (not built by Crusoe, by the way).

5. Piracanga, Bahia, Brazil: We stayed here for more than 10 months in 2011. We lived practically on the doorstep of miles of vacant sandy beach. The ocean here, while often quite strong, was nearly always the perfect temperature and the sand ideal although we did have to lookout for troublesome little flees. www.piracanga.com

 

Restaurants

1. Napfenyes Etterem, Budapest: So good we ate there every day on our short stay, sometimes twice in a day. Great menu, nice staff. Almost too many delightful dishes, making our choice so much tougher (hence the reason we kept coming back) Rózsa u 39, District VII, Budapest 1077 +36-1-3135555. http://www.napfenyesetterem.hu/

2. Pure Food & Wine, Manhattan, New York: Somewhat pricey, but worth it, if only for the scrumptious desserts. Formal vegan restaurant with raw options. Jamie can't wait to get back there. www.oneluckyduck.com 54 Irving Place New York, NY 10003-2314 Tel: (212) 477-1010

3. Terra, Lisbon, Portugal: Fabulous buffet spread when we visited over seven years ago. Food is fresh and the ginger juice, though laced with sugar, so refreshing. www.restauranteterra.pt Príncipe Real, Rua da Palmeira 15, 1200-311 LISBOA, Portugal Tel: 213 421 407

4. Tiestos, Cuenca, Ecuador: Delicious food delivered in a large tagine (tiesto). The chef can make almost whatever you like and uses his ingredients so perfectly. A hit every time. Juan Jaramillo 7-34, City Centre, Cuenca, Ecuador

5. Buenos Aires Verde, Buenos Aires, Argentina: Outstanding organic vegetarian nosh, always beautifully presented, fresh and nutritious. Plenty of vegan and raw vegan options. Lovely setting, relaxed atmosphere and genuine staff. There is a menu in English. Try the salads, pizza, deserts and smoothies. Reasonably priced as well, especially when compared to most organic raw food/vegetarian restaurants. Gorriti 5657, Buenos Aires. http://www.bsasverde.com/index_en.html. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-0.30am.

 

Parks

1. KL City Park, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: Bang on the doorstep of the Petronas Towers and an enormous shopping centre is a large fountain which backs on to a great park. Whether it's jogging, walking, kids play or splashing in water, this park has it all. It's where I infamously smashed up my shins doing box jumps on marble columns (I slipped!) We spent countless hours there with our kids in the second-to-none children's play area. 

2. El Retiro, Madrid, Spain: Outstanding and in the city centre (near Retiro subway). Has many jogging paths and exercise areas as well as a lake with boats, cycle routes and quieter, shaded areas to sit.

3. Munich Olympic Park, Germany: By the former Olympic stadium, these manicured grounds near the centre of the city were used for the 1972 Games. The park has a lake and river and is perfect for running, cycling, rollerblading or just strolling.

4. Central Park, New York: At the tip of Manhattan, the park has something for everyone in any season, Great for walking, running, playing sports, rollerblading or just to pass some time.

5. Bosques de Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina: We stayed just a few blocks from this park. I went running there a lot (it can get busy) and Zenchai and I hired bicycles. We also went there for days out in the sun, just to play about on the grass. It's a huge park with beautiful gardens and monuments as well as a lake in the middle where you can rent paddleboats to calmly take in the scenery and relax. 

 

Sites/Experiences

1. Iguazu Falls, Argentina: Truly breathtaking, immense natural wonder on the Brazilian and Argentine border. Well worth the ridiculously long bus journey from Buenos Aires and wait for the lashing rain to subside.

2. Milford Sounds, New Zealand: Spectacular scenery on the South Island, visions I can't imagine you'd find anywhere else all in one place - mountains, lakes, hills...every corner turned delivered something special.

3. Blue Mountains, Sydney, Australia: Down Under's answer to the Grand Canyon. Impressive views, walks and cable rides.

4. El Zapato/Cajon Dam, Capilla Del Monte, Argentina: This site took us by surprise. We were on a walk, looking for the dam and stumbled upon an immense mountainscape that looked like something from 'The Land Of The Giants'.

5. Superclassico Football - River Plate v Boca Juniors: A truly memorable occasion for any footy fan - the biggest rivalry in the Argentine league. Whether it's at the River Plate Stadium, where the 1978 World Cup final took place, or Boca's smaller, but more cauldron-like ground, this is an unmissable fixture, more so for the bristling atmosphere than the football. 

 

Hotels/Hostals

1. Villa de las Aves, Uvita, Costa Rica: Fabulous two-floor house-type buildings with private jacuzzi, kitchens and a communal pool set in grounds surrounded by trees, animals and birds. With delightful owners, too - from Australia and UK, this is a spectacular place within reach of Costa Rica's great beaches. http://www.villasdelasaves.com/

2. Bahia Principe Tulum, Playa del Carmen, Mexico: All-inclusive resort hotel close to crystal clear sea water and private white sandy beaches.

3. Mandala, Puerto Lopez, Ecuador: Immaculately decorated – has so much to offer, like a library, games room, restaurant, gardens and music room. http://www.hosteriamandala.info/

4. Hip Hotel, Maastricht, Holland: Super sleek, funky one-time apartments converted into themed hotel rooms at affordable prices. There’s secure parking also, but at a fee. http://www.st-martenslane.com/

5. Intercontinental, Chicago airport: Comfortable, tasteful and sheek. 5300 North River Road, Rosemont. Tel: (847) 544-5300

 

Children's Activities

1. Parkour, Vancouver: Of all the activities we have introduced Zenchai to, this was the best. He couldn't get enough. What kid wouldn't want to run, tumble, climb, crash, jump and generally have heaps of fun exploring movement? http://www.originsparkour.com/

2. Wall Climbing, Kuala Lumpur: We took Zenchai along to the largest indoor climbing facility in Asia - and it is huge. It's all supervised and, while a little daunting, children get the chance to scale some enormous walls and grow in confidence. 

3. River Play, Piracanga, Brazil: During our stint at an eco village, we lived close to a river, which was perfect for children. Zenchai learned both to kayak and swim here in addition to spending countless hours just playing.

4. Children's Museum, Buenos Aires: Although the cost of entry wasn't low, it was worth it. Children got to role play and dress up to their heart's content. Zenchai used to beg me to take him here. 

5. Waterfall, Chiang Mai, Thailand: This northern Thai city is surrounded by waterfalls of various sizes. We found one on a Sunday afternoon and the kids loved it so much we couldn't tear them away. 

Vancouver: The Tasty Location

WHAT makes a location perfect? Sunshine? Beach? Beautiful views? Happy people? Safety? Opportunity? Low cost of living? Community? Clean air?

I know every person has their own preference. But I also know by the big grin on my wife's face whenever she comes home from the store after purchasing groceries that the wide availability of healthy and organic goods is near the top of her list. Actually, put it at THE top.

I have seen her positively brimming with delight at the discovery of an abundant health food store or a restaurant that tickles her fancy or a massive fresh food market.

In some countries we've been to, like India, Ecuador, Brazil and some parts of Europe, it was either hard or too expensive for us to source the type of foods we like for a balanced diet.

But Vancouver is undisputedly fantastic for the range of organic, gluten-free, vegan, vegetarian and fresh food. So much so that Vancouver is now Jamie's No. 1 destination to live. Here you can also find community gardens everywhere, some more imaginative than others (see photo above). 

Here there are organic stores in abundance. There's a Wholefoods not far from where we are based, but just in our local high street there are two excellent alternatives with everything you could wish for and more.

It's a great plus, because we can eat healthily all the time, but Jamie's like a child in a toy store every time she tops up our groceries.

As you probably know, Jamie is a real foodie loves to play and experiment. Admittedly, her nosh is delicious. 

While I love to gobble up her treats, I know we're on a tight budget, too, and have to be prudent with our expenses.

For that reason (and having one fussy young eater) we don't eat out too often, but, invariably, whenever we do I always walk away thinking (or should I say knowing?) that Jamie's grub is far more delicious. 

 

Vancouver: Around The World In 1,111 Days

GIVEN that we started our journey over three years ago by heading close to South America's west coast - Ecuador - we have now practically circumnavigated the globe - in 1,111 days by arriving in Vancouver, Canada from Auckland.

It means that Zenchai, our son, has more or less been travelling half his life. Whereas our daughter, Kobra, knows no other life. She is a true nomad - born on the road, in Brazil, and has rolled with the punches ever since. She transitions from one location to another more easily than any of us. 

Vancouver will be our home for the next three months. It feels strange being in a big city again, having become so used to New Zealand's open spaces and lack of frenzy. 

But we look forward to the changes - in location, climate (far cooler), economy (more expensive, at least with regards to accommodation) - and the opportunity a place like Vancouver will offer us. We've settled into our cosy Laneway Home from which we can see the snow-capped mountains in the distance.

We are here, though, primarily for CrossFit, as I am on a three-month intern program at CrossFit Vancouver, one of the top and pioneering CrossFit facilities in the world.

I have the qualifications to coach (having passed the exams), but that's just theory and coaching is all about putting the knowledge into practice.

So I'm hoping they will teach me to become a coach - to equip me on my journey to transform lives through CrossFit, which promotes better health and well-being through strength and conditioning and changes in diet.

When I left England three years ago and quit my job of 23 years as a print journalist, the plan was to discover a new passion as we travelled the world. It took longer than I had hoped. But that's how it is.

I knew when I first tried CrossFit, though, that this was it. And I have always been one to chase my passions and make dreams (like travelling the world with my family) come true, regardless of what others think or say. 

CrossFit is my new passion and as our travel feels like it is winding down, our attention is focusing more on the future and what that will hold for us. We are planning accordingly. 

Vancouver promises to be a pivotal stop along the way.

World Travel: Groundhog Day

TEN pm and we were driving around Auckland when we should have been in the sky, on our way from New Zealand to Vancouver, Canada.

We had been sitting at the gate for our international flight when my name was called over the loudspeaker.

Jamie and I glanced at each other, thinking 'what could this be about?'

I was soon to find out. 

When I got to the Air New Zealand representatives, I was told we couldn't fly - because we didn't have an onward-bound ticket from Canada.

We were going to Canada for three months, everything booked, and were not sure of our next move, so left it open.

I check for small details like this before planning trips. And while it's clearly stated before entering countries like Australia and New Zealand that you need an onward-bound ticket, I didn't read anything similar for Canada. Well, apparently you do. I must have missed this one. 

So after representatives failed to help me sort it out as time approached for us to board, I was advised to go to the internet counter and book a flight. Any flight.

With time ticking, I searched the net for a good deal, but there was nothing cheap and when I finally nailed a flight (which wasn't cheap), my credit card denied the transaction. I suppose the fee was too large and it flagged up a security warning. It's great to know my credit card people are watching out for fraudsters, but it didn't help me on this occasion.

I was resigned to defeat. There wasn't enough time left. I returned to the airline counter and explained what had happened. Out came the manager, all apologetic but firm, doing her job and explaining we had to come off the flight.

"So what next?" I asked.

"You'll have to get another flight," she replied.

"You mean buy another one?" I asked.

"Possibly," she said.

This was now going from huge inconvenience to disaster. But I managed to stay calm. I accepted our fate and had to fill in landing cards, as though we had all arrived in New Zealand, in order to go through immigration and passport control to collect our luggage etc.

It took forever. Soon Jamie and the kids, all looking tired and a bit flummoxed, joined me.

We made our way back, finding it hard not to think about the prospect of doing it all again the next day. There was good news around the corner, though. It turned out we didn't have to buy new flights and that we would be put on the same flight 24 hours later, so long as we had proof of an onward-bound journey in Canada.

All of us were hungry. We finally got through to the main airport area, where we had to wait to be reunited with our bags and then sort out paperwork for the flight the next day.

Another manager came over to me to explain the situation, saying that ALL non-Canadian and non-American citizens must have onward-bound flights upon arrival in Canada. That means Kobra and I, since Zenchai has an American passport. 

Then more good news - he said the airline (Air New Zealand) would put us up in a hotel for the night and pay for the taxis etc, which was a relief given our cab meter was at NZ$84 by the time we arrived.

So we waited, snacking on apples and letting the kids run around the busy airport, until finally we had taxi and hotel vouchers presented to us.

We loaded ourselves into a cab and set off, only for the taxi driver to end up in the wrong part of town.

Eventually, we got there - too late for any dinner. Quickly, I sent a message to the person who had offered to fetch us from Vancouver airport, hoping she'd get it in time. We then just stripped off and got into bed. What a day. 

The next morning I was on the internet checking out flights until a friend (and travel agent) helped me out. We were all set.

Slowly, we made our way through the day. I took Zenchai to a nearby park to allow him to exert some energy and work his legs in readiness for 13 hours on an airplane.

Eventually, the time came to again set off for the airport - 15 minutes away. We arrived in good time, produced our documents showing we would be leaving Canada, and headed on through to the gate once more.

It was a tough flight, though. None of us, except for Kobra, really slept. Zenchai was over-tired and probably over-stimulated from the in-flight entertainment. Air New Zealand is a great airline, but we struggled through to Canada.

Upon arrival, the immigration lines were long. We queued until an officer saw Jamie nursing Kobra and pulled us out to a faster track.

But the immigration officer grilled us. "Where are you staying?" "How are you affording this?" "How long have you been travelling?" What sort of work do you do?" "Where was your daughter born?" "Does she have a Brazilian passport?" "Can I see it?" etc.

That wasn't the end of it. We were then pulled out of line again, this time to have our bags searched. It appeared like a random procedure, but I didn't think we particularly looked like smugglers.

In the end, though, the officer asked some more questions, took our passports, presumably ran a few checks and came back satisfied. 

We were in Vancouver, safely. It was colder than in New Zealand - cloudy with drizzle, but not as cold as I had anticipated. We arrived at our home for the next three months, a cosy Laneway Home, and slowly settled in. Seasoned travellers we may all be, but it still doesn't get any easier. 

New Zealand: 19 Days On The Road With Two Children

IT didn't exactly start perfectly, with Zenchai throwing a tizzy in a car park in Christchurch (a case of being too hungry). But it only could get better from there. And, thankfully, it did.

Some 3,404km and nearly three weeks later, we'd explored New Zealand's stunning South Island, crossed the Cook Strait back to the North Island, and driven up to Auckland.

The landscape in NZ is overwhelmingly spectacular. Each day, when I thought it couldn't get any better, it did. Often we'd see ice-capped mountains, rolling green hills, blue lakes - all in the same location!

The roads, especially on the South Island, were practically empty. No traffic jams. There were occasional, though brief, roadworks. But it was a pleasure getting around.

However, we tried not to be on the road too long each day (between two and three hours) to save our children from boredom and confinement. Often we'd time the driving for when Kobra would take her nap. 

We did most of our camping in DOC (Department of Conservation) campsites. We received a booklet when we hired our Rocket rental vehicle and each night aimed for a DOC site near where we aimed to stop.

The sites are all relatively cheap (around NZ$15 per night) and in some extraordinary locations. The entry fee goes towards maintenance of the sites. Facilities are usually quite basic. We did most of our bathing in chilly but stunning, picture-postcard lakes or rivers. For shaving, I would try to find a public toilet en route or use the reflection of the car windows as my mirror. 

We were mostly fortunate with the weather. It was summer time after all. We hardly saw rain the first week and there were just a few days when we were washed out. 

The rain would also make it harder for sleeping. Not only did it sound loud pounding on the roof, but our canopy at the back of the vehicle would, in the case of a heavy downpour, leak a little. We just turned ourselves around, so our heads were in the middle of the vehicle rather than the back.

But, generally, we all slept reasonably well. We were tightly packed, but that was great on the few chilly nights when the skies were clear. 

In campsites there would often be children for ours to play with. We could see Zenchai's confidence growing in approaching other youngsters. He had a ball. So did Kobra. One day when we stayed by the amazing Lake Hawea, north of Queenstown, Zenchai just walked over to some children and the next thing we knew he was on a speedboat trip. He just took off on the lake. We laughed about how our son was off with some strangers we'd never met. But we felt sure he was safe and loving it. I heard him brag to one other child as he boarded the boat, "I've been on a ship called the Sea Shepherd. It's a real pirate ship, you know?" 

However, Kobra fell asleep while Zenchai was out on the water and, because we needed to get going, Jamie and I started looking at each other, thinking 'How long is he going to be out there?' 

In the end, I had to kayak to the boat (using a kayak our camping neighbours had kindly offered to us) to get Zenchai back. Like those neighbours, the people we met along our trip were always friendly. I found customer service in NZ to be outstanding, too. The Kiwis are a welcoming bunch. 

Starting in Christchurch, we headed south to Dunedin, where we visited this steepest street in the world and observed the endangered yellow-eyed penguins and seals at a special conservation.

From there we made our way across land, via Gore towards Te Anau, where there is a fabulous lake and we stayed the night. The following day we headed north to the unforgettably stunning Milford Sound in Fiordland, taking in the mountains, valleys and breathtaking scenery. 

There is just one road there, Milford Sound being the only fiord accessible by land. Make sure you fill your vehicle with petrol before you head there as there are no gas stations. 

We headed back towards Te Anau, camping by a river for the night at Deer Flat. The next day we ventured towards Queenstown, which was more spectacular than I ever imagined.

Although it's full of young people on adrenaline rushes (lots of adventure-type activities going on here) and a ski town in the winter, Queenstown is beautiful. The water, almost turquoise in parts, reminded me of Europe's fantastic Adriatic Sea. 

Queenstown can be expensive, so we headed out for our next stop at another special DOC campsite at Moke Lake.

The next day, after passing through sparkling Wanaka, we stayed at Kidds Bush at Hawea Conservation Park, again by the lake. It was also breathtaking.

We didn't feel disappointed until the next day, when we camped out at Paringa Lake and got ambushed by sand flies. We had been warned. But it didn't help. It was so severe they came through into the car during the night along with mosquitoes. We slept mostly with covers over our faces and then Jamie and I made an executive decision first thing in the morning - to sling everything in the back of the car and get out as fast as we could! 

On the next stage of our journey we passed through the gold-mining town of Ross, which is apparently sitting on NZ$700 million of the precious metal. Zenchai got his own mining pan and gave it a go in the nearby river, excitedly hoping he'd get rich. No such luck. 

By the time we reached Hokitika further up the west coast, rain was on its way. For the second night running (but for different reasons) our sleep was broken. But the kids didn't seem to be affected much. With rain lashing down, we took to the roads and, because we couldn't see a great deal, just kept driving, getting as far as Motueka.

There, we found a decent campsite, full of children for Zenchai and Kobra to play with. The next day we headed to Golden Bay in the impressive Abel Tasman National Park, where we had the beach to ourselves. The sun was out, but the wind fresh. Zenchai and I did some sprint training and then built sandcastles.

We moved on to Kaiteriteri, staying in the Bethany Park campsite where they offered a family deal for only NZ$20. Zenchai made friends again. He was playing football in the dark. The next morning, with the sun shining gloriously, we headed for the beach before hitting the roads, passing through Nelson as we proceeded north. 

Hours of driving took us to Rarangi, where we stopped at the remote Whites Bay. It took some finding, going up lots of winding roads. That night, before dinner, firemen came to our site to warn us of a possible Tsunami from the earthquake in the Soloman Islands. The beach was closed. But nothing happened. 

It wasn't far from there to catch the ferry across the Strait from Picton, where there is an excellent kids playground. Luckily for us the Strait was calm (ish). It was a glorious day. By 4.30pm we were in Wellington again. We didn't stop, instead heading onwards Otaki, where we camped at Otaki Forks, a gorgeous spot in the Tararua Forest Park. We had the place to ourselves and a glorious river to bathe in the next morning - though it was the coldest plunge pool I'd ever experienced!

We did a spot of shopping in Otaki at outlet malls, especially for Icebreaker clothing as we equipped ourselves for our next stop, Vancouver. Icebreaker clothing is expensive (it supposedly doesn't smell from prolonged use), but there were some great deals.

Our journey took us back to Napier, where we stayed with friends for three nights, having intended to be there only two. We just couldn't bring ourselves to leave and I got to revisit CrossFit Napier - three times!!

From Napier it was a two-hour drive to Taupo, where we stopped for lunch, and then another 90 minutes to Tauranga, where we ended up at a caravan park not typical of the places we had frequented on the rest of our journey. It was cheap (NZ$20), but the notice in the kitchen warning about theft in the area didn't exactly make us feel at home.

The nearer to Auckland we went, the more traffic we encountered. Tauranga, for instance, was surprisingly congested. We ended up racing the clock a little to reach our hostel in Auckland, buy food for dinner and our flight out of New Zealand the next day and then take our rental Rocket to a car wash before dropping it off by 4pm.

We made it without a hitch. The staff at Spaceship (Rocket) were friendly as ever. They didn't baulk at the broken tent either. It was a (standard) NZ$25 cab fare back to the hostel as we entered our final 24 hours in New Zealand. 

In terms of travel highlights since we departed the UK over three years ago, New Zealand is right up there at the top. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Zealand: Seeing It All On A Budget

IF I had known New Zealand was as spectacularly beautiful as it is, I would have come here sooner. Or at least planned to do so.

Or if I had listened to my wife when she was telling me how special NZ is (she lived there 10 years ago), we'd have maybe visited this part of the world first. Who knows? Or maybe saving NZ for last - or near-last - was a smart move. 

For an outdoors lifestyle, New Zealand offers everything from beach to mountains to skiing to surfing to hiking to tramping to any number of sports. Is there a more scenically beautiful country in the world? 

Although we arrived here before Christmas and spent time in Auckland, Napier and Wellington (my wife's old stamping ground) in the North Island, we desperately wanted to see the South Island, too - without missing too much.

New Zealand isn't cheap, though. We explored a variety of ways of seeing all we could in the near-three weeks remaining at our disposal. But there wasn't a way we could think of - with a family of four - without stretching the budget.

As a single person or a couple, costs can be reduced dramatically (you could even resort to hitch-hiking if you had to), but with little ones it's not that simple, though in Motueka we did meet an interesting and adventurous American/Canadian couple (see Jasonschlarb.com) who had been cycling NZ with a two-year-old!

The big issue for us was how to get around. We ruled out bicycles, obviously. Do we buy a car and then sell it before we leave? Do we go by coach, but then be limited to seeing only what the coach tour allows (and deal with the motion sickness our kids get on buses) and then have to stay in costly hotels? Do we rent a vehicle, but then fork out around NZ$80 per night in accommodation on top? And long distance train travel in NZ is pretty non-existent.

We looked at all sorts of options, but seeing as accommodation and food are usually the two most expensive elements of travel, a rental camper of some description fitted the bill. Why not have a house on wheels?

The regular campers (three or four-berth) were just too expensive at around NZ$120-plus per day (in high season, which it was) and used up too much fuel. Trying to get a relocation camper didn't work either as in NZ the time period given to drive a vehicle from one location to another is limited and fuel doesn't come free as is usually the case when relocating in Australia.

In the end we found the Spaceships/Rockets. These are Toyota cars with double beds in the back. They can be hired in NZ from three locations: Christchurch (which we did); Auckland; Queenstown. They also are classified as cars, which means it's cheaper to take on the ferry from Picton (in the south) to Wellington. The ferry crossing at NZ $258 still wasn't exactly a snip, though.

We shopped around for our Spaceship and got a good deal from the Christchurch location at NZ$55 per day. With a Sat Nav, our daily rental was NZ$60 (approximately £30). We also hired a tent for NZ$100, which came in useful (for storing luggage at night) even though I slept in it only once (usually, Jamie, Kobra and I would kip on the double bed at the back of the Rocket and Zenchai in the reclined passenger seat up front).

That cosy set-up worked well, though had some drawbacks as in summer it stays light for longer and Zenchai often didn't nod off until around 10pm. Also, once or twice his long legs would reach out in the night and knock the controls and we'd wake up with the hazard lights blinking!

Going back to costs, though, you have to also factor in fuel prices, which add up as you cover ground each day. But having refused to shell out for the Galapagos Islands when in Ecuador in 2010, we didn't want to repeat the mistake of not seeing somewhere special (the Galapagos are expensive to see, but completely unique) because of the price. Some experiences are worth any price, if you know what I mean. 

We trimmed our costs further by eating in practically the whole time. We'd stop at supermarkets, buy our produce and cook out with the equipment (two-hob portable cooker) that came with our Rocket vehicle. 

Another cost to bear in mind is campsites. Freedom camping is prohibited in New Zealand anywhere but in designated areas. Fines can be hefty.

We found the DOC (Department of Conservation) campsites to be the best value. Often they would charge NZ$6 per adult and NZ$3 for children aged over five. This meant we were staying for NZ$15 per night. For that, you would at least get the use of a toilet. Usually, there was running water (though not always drinkable). Some sites had showers (but cold). 

Many of the DOC sites are in scenic reserves, by lakes or rivers or the ocean. We found some exceptional places to put our heads down for the night.

However, some regions of NZ have more DOC sites than others and when we couldn't locate one we'd resort to the more pricey campsites  (Top 10, Kiwi etc) that have hot showers, kitchens, TV rooms, playgrounds, pools, internet etc. These were priced anywhere between NZ$20 and NZ$60, though we never paid above NZ$55.

But Jamie and I certainly preferred the DOC sites, just for their beauty, peacefulness and being so close to nature. The more touristy sites were just too busy and lacked any real character or privacy.

When the costs were totalled, though, this is how it was broken down in terms of average daily expenses: campsites NZ$26.60; petrol NZ$52.43; food, drink and essential items NZ$57.66.

Not exactly rock bottom prices, but you'd struggle to find a room for four anywhere on our route for anywhere close to what we spent at campsites. And how could you feed your family three times a day for less than what amounts to £30 without venturing to a fast-food joint?

If we'd had longer to travel, we would have probably opted to buy a second-hand camper. They can be cheap in NZ. I met a Frenchman at our hostel in Auckland who had bought a camper for NZ$3,500, driven over 10,000km over two months and sold it for about the same price! It can be done.

We could have been more lavish with our spending and gone on plane trips, tours, cruises etc. But, with two young children, that didn't really work. We had our enjoyment by exploring mostly what New Zealand offers for free - the great outdoors.

We skipped many places we had hoped to visit, but that just means we'll have to come back again. 

Napier, New Zealand: Special Place On Planet Earth

WE'VE been travelling now three years and seen many countries. But there haven't been too many where Jamie and I have each felt we would like to stay for, say, more than six months of the year.

But Napier on the north island of New Zealand definitely hit the spot for us. From the moment we arrived by coach, having passed through stunning scenic locations coming down from Auckland, we felt right at home.

It has a bit of everything - the feel of northern California, landscape of Cordoba, Argentina, smells of Croatia, water that looks like the Adriatic, hills to rival Brecon and, in the summer, sunshine like in Greece.

There are vineyards everywhere, the streets are clean, the people nice and friendly, the parks modern and well looked after and the 'traffic' flowing. There are gorgeous rivers where children can play safely. Heck, there's even three CrossFit gyms in the region!

There is no shortage of things to do and see. Excellent beaches are within easy access. There are hiking and cycling trails all over. 

For food, farmers selling fresh fruit and vegetables are abundant. And for shopping, while downtown isn't exactly bustling and huge, there is little that exists in big cities that cannot be found here.

We were fortunate enough to stay here with friends of Jamie's and able to have a good look around. The more we did, the more spectacular it seemed and the more we liked it.

Even the drinking water here is cleaner/safer than elsewhere - no flouride!

In terms of access, Napier lies about four hours-plus from Auckland in the north and about the same from the capital, Wellington, to the south. 

As much as my wife raves about Wellington, Napier has nicer weather (more sunshine) and the ocean waters are warmer, if only marginally so. 

It's a special place on planet earth - at least that's how we feel about it.

World Travel: Surviving Motion Sickness

I'M not the worst in our family for motion sickness. I recall years ago, when on holiday in Mauritius on a deep-sea fishing trip (my pre-vegan days), being sick the entire time (about six hours). And as a kid, when we used to take family trips through Europe, I'd often have my head hanging out of the window of my dad's Renault 16 (especially on winding roads) or whatever model he had at the time.

But Zenchai's in a different league. He'll get sick if we go over a speed bump! No, I'm exagerating the point, but the little guy is terribly sensitive to motion sickness. He's okay on city buses, trains, quad bikes and Indian/Thai tuk-tuks, but fast taxis, bumpy aeroplane rides, rough ferry crossings and long-distance coaches in particular have his little guts stewing.

What prompted this blog was our trip down from Auckland to beautiful Napier by coach on New Year's Day. I thought it was a relatively smooth one, but not Zenchai. 

About two hours into the journey, after he'd chowed down a few peanut butter sandwiches (not the Stig sandwiches he's pictured with above) for breakfast, he started to feel ill. 

I noticed the signs - the frequent yawning. But we didn't react fast enough. Zenchai complained he wasn't feeling well. Jamie, sat in front of us with Kobra, started searching for a bag and then handed it to me. I tried getting it open. But it was too late. As I fumbled trying to find the bag opening, Zenchai projectile vommited all over himself and me. Yuck!

Then something amazing happened. An Australian passenger travelling alone (a man and father of two teenage boys) quickly dashed to the rescue and offered his help!

Armed with a bag of baby wipes, I accepted his assistance (of course) and handed them to him. Between us, we managed to mop up most of the sick. 

We've been through this scenario before, especially when in Ecuador, where the roads are winding and the drivers handle them like maniacs.

So armed with some experience, here are our tips for surviving motion sickness with children.

1. Don't read.

2. Get fresh air (if possible).

3. Watch the road and get a seat near the front if on a coach or bus.

4. Get your child to sleep if he or she can.

5. Travel on an empty stomach (which is contrary to a lot of advice, but just my experience). If you must eat, try potato chips (we don't usually eat them, but they apparently work for those with sensitive guts and we tried it recently on Zenchai - with success)

6. Carry extra clothing.

7. Make sure you have sick bags.

8. Take baby wipes or something to clean up a mess with.

After Zenchai had emptied the contents of his belly, he was pretty much okay. He at least survived the remaining three hours on the road, though Kobra had her turn and spat up all over Jamie, who isn't a great coach traveller either.

But don't let all of this put you off embarking on long travels with your children. After all, if we can survive then surely anyone can. 

 

North Shores Auckland: Orewa Estuary

I DON'T often research or plan family days. That somehow falls by default on to Claude. I won't make excuses as to why that is, but there is a saying "if its not broke don't fix it."

However, by accident I stumbled upon an idea for a day trip. The homeowner's from our housesit left a magazine all about things to do locally. I was perusing it and noticed that Orewa Estuary had been mentioned a few times along with a bike rental company.

With Zenchai being of the energetic type and loving a good cycle, I thought it would make a nice adventure.

Not to toot my own horn, but it was a fantastic family day out!

We covered about 8km in total and Zenchai, on a snazzy bike, loved every second of it. In fact, he said it was the best cycling day he's had!

Kobra sat on the back of Claude's bike, initially having chosen a small carriage instead of a seat before changing her mind. We stopped a few times to admire the scenery and take photos before heading back to the bicyle shop. It took us around an hour and was well worth it. 

We rented our bikes from BikeMe, which is located at 292 Hibiscus Coast Highway next door to Radio Station 89.9. Rentals are decently priced and there's a wide range of options. There's also a huge children's playground virtually across the road and, beyond that, a long beach.