Abrams Family World Travel

Serra Grande: Living On Light (Week 3)

I CAN see now why the final seven days are described as the ‘Mental Week’ more so than ‘The Resurrection’.

The 19^th day was testing for me in so far as my mind began to lose focus and I started looking ahead to the finish with it being so near.

Only on this day did I lose my sense of being centred, though. On the whole, the last week was a coming together of all the elements I had experienced.

The ‘process’ had given me a clearer definition of my sense of happiness and fulfillment, the experience of being in a deeper and prolonged state of stillness and of living in the moment, without wanting or needing.

I didn’t realise how much pleasure could be had from doing so little and simply enjoying whatever experience came along.

When silence and emptiness becomes uncomfortable often the impulse is to get busy. Mine was to remain quiet and still.

There was something therapeutic about observing and being with nature, especially surrounded by forest. I was certainly very alert and switched on. All my senses seemed to be operating on what felt like a higher frequency. Often I couldn’t sleep as my mind was so active.

I noticed I had become gentler and kinder to myself. I felt mentally very strong, as if the whole experience had expanded my mind, nourished my soul and lifted my spirits.

The final two days were stormy (lashing rain and then a fierce, chilly wind) but inside I maintained calmness. I stayed in the tent mostly, warm under my blankets. What a contrast, I thought, to how I’d felt not too long ago in Piracanga, where outside it was sunny and gloriously beautiful, but in my head space the clouds were gloomy.

It confirmed to me that any situation or place is only as happy or beautiful as the thoughts you have about it. Even mosquitos buzzing around my head!

Everything is a projection of our thoughts. The mosquitos eventually became my playmates. I’d sit in my hammock, they’d try to make me their acupuncture cushion and I’d attempt to clap them. Not very Zen-like, I admit – only if you do it with anger. But I noticed my sight, timing and speed of hand improving quickly. I observed the different types of mosquito, how they moved and their patterns. I got to know them well.

Little could dampen my spirits, it seemed. I really started to comprehend more fully author Byron Katie when she says ¨Everything is perfect as it is.” The more you accept, the more perfect you see the world for what it is. So I looked to the present moment, which is where life is really happening – always!

I realized I had been fighting reality every time I opposed my circumstances and the result of this was stress. Now I try to graciously accept where I am and what is taking place.

I recognize for me that happiness and healthfulness come when there is an absence of stress (the worrying, conflict type). I’d had 21 largely stress-free days and that in itself made this experience worthwhile. I accepted that my happiness is solely MY responsibility.

The sense of feeling ‘lost’ no longer resides in me. I don’t feel at all directionless even though beyond England for Christmas I haven’t a fixed destination for where I will be. But tomorrow I might. Or the day after. I trust in myself and life. As scientist Alan Kay once said, "The best way to predict the future is to invent it."

I’m happy to be in Piracanga, London or wherever. And now when I think of the last two years travelling with my family, I see it as the best time of my life.

However, while the ‘process’ was for me powerful on so many levels, physically, it was very weakening. I was not even close to the level of fitness at the end as when I started.

I did my best to accelerate my physical revival by working out daily, doing push-ups, chin-ups and squats. I swam, practiced yoga and walked. I was always mindful not to do too much. My routines were short, but intense.

I got progressively stronger, but my body was thin and often drained. I felt less thirsty than in the second week and drank less. Hunger was never a factor. I didn’t think of food. The fresh juices were more concentrated, perhaps explaining why I consumed less. But on some days I woke up having had nothing for what must have been 14 hours or more and felt fine. I now know I won’t ever starve.

I liked that I was able to enjoy living in a natural bodily rhythm. I didn’t drink because ít was time’. I realize how much my desires to eat and drink are mental rather than physical.

However, I have no desires to stop eating even though I feel sure that I could – at least in the short-term – and that drinking juices never gave me that heavy feeling you get when eating too much and the digestive system is overloaded.

I enjoy food – the preparing and sharing, the taste, smells and social interaction around it. I will seek to find a healthy balance. I realise the wrong foods can make you sick, too much food can leave you tired and not enough makes you weak.

Living on juices only, I peed more than ever in my life. This made sleeping problematic as on average I would be up five times every night. Often, though, I’d sleep in the mornings, by when my bladder was empty, and towards the end of the week my dreams became clearer and more vivid. Although I didn’t sleep well, I felt rested.

The ‘process’ felt like a long and short experience at the same time. It’s hard to explain fully, but I am sure we have all had that sensation. I came to really enjoy sitting in the forest house for hours in my hammock cross-legged. I never picked up a book or, surprisingly for me, tried to do any drawing. I spent time just watching.

This was a transformative journey I can’t imagine I will ever forget. I hope – and trust – it lives on in me. Little would I know how much the day after I finished my resolve would be thoroughly tested. More on that in a blog to follow.

I owe special thanks to my beautiful wife, Jamie, who not only lovingly takes care of my family, but supports me, shares my visions, gives me the freedom to be myself and opportunities to explore my potential. I love you.

Thank you, too, to Silvia, who supported me, welcomed me to her home and on to her land and provided me with the gift of this chance to grow, evolve and understand myself and humankind more fully.

*Anyone interested in doing the ‘process’with Silvia can contact her by email - portalsilvia@yahoo.com.br - to discuss it further. She speaks Portuguese, English, French and Spanish.

Brazil: More Police Federal Fun And Games

WE thought we had seen the last of Policia Federal in Ilheus. But no such luck. We needed a passport for Kobra as Jamie and the kids are on their way to England for Christmas to see friends and family (I will follow later).

Being born in Brazil makes Kobra entitled to a Brazilian passport. It's easier (from Brazil) than applying for a British one (which would entail mailing the original birth certificate to the British Consulate in Rio De Janeiro, getting a British one and then mailing it to Washington DC for processing and waiting for goodness knows how long for it to return).

We shall apply for Kobra's British when we are in England. It's simpler that way. In the meantime we applied for the Brazilian online. This involved entering all the essential information and receiving an appointment date at Police Federal in Ilheus.

Our appointment was confirmed. We printed it off and then waited for the day. We had a plan, which involved entering our paperwork, returning to Itacare by bus and then, the next day, going by bus to beautiful Boipeba for a small family break.

So when we arrived in Itacare on the morning of our appointment, we booked ourselves into a pousada/guesthouse (we opted for the Piracanga Pousada on the small square), left our bags and computer and then took the bus to Ilheus for the 2.45pm appointment.

Arriving well in time (the bus journey is about two hours, but fairly smooth), we had some lunch first, took a taxi to Police Federal and then the fun started, as usual.

We were told that the appointment venue had been changed and then to go to SAC in the centre where Police Federal now has a passport office. No-one had warned or told us.

We walked to the nearby bus terminal, took a taxi back to Ilheus centre (about R15 or £7) and found the SAC building. 

Immediately, we handed in our papers. But shortly after, an officer (the first friendly one we had encountered) gave us some bad news. Talking in Portuguese, he said something to the effect of "Doesn't look too good right now. If you [two] were Brazilian it wouldn't be a problem. But as it is, it's going to be complicated."

He disappeared back into the office. Zenchai played in the dirt with his cars. Jamie and I looked at each other almost in disbelief. Jamie was ready to scream!

Some time later a more senior officer, who looked at you over his glasses whenever he spoke, came out. Again, talking in fast Portuguese and sounding rude, he said he couldn't process the application. We weren't clear why.

His friendlier colleague came out to explain further, telling us we needed to come again the next morning (8am).

'YOU MUST BE JOKING' were the words ringing in my head.

We contemplated getting a bus back to Itacare, where all our belongings were, or staying the night in Ilheus.

After calculating the costs - and inconvenience - we opted to stay in Ilheus. The expense of staying one night added up to the same to travelling to Itacare and back the next day. Nice 'pousadas' are hard to find in Ilheus, though. We searched and got one that was (barely) acceptable. 

It meant, though, that we were paying for three places to stay on one night (remember, we are also renting a house in Piracanga)!

Up in time for breakfast, we then made our way to Police Federal again. Jamie tried to adopt a more positive attitude. I did the same. 

What could be the problem? We'd spoken to people who'd successfully applied. We'd had two Brazilians read the 'necessary documents' page on the government website. We felt prepared.

We were positive, but I also was ready for anything. Never take anything for granted. This was Police Federal after all. 

Jamie and I looked at each other when we presented our documents to an officer who had turned us away several months ago when we tried for temporary residency. Bad sign?

He came out several minutes later and, in his high-pitched voice, explained to us he could start the process and have a passport issued, but that we would need to go to the other Police Federal to make and sign a declaration.

We groaned, but accepted.

The passport would be ready for collection after eight working days and only one of the parents (provided he or she has the child's birth certificate and his or her passport) needed to pick it up. 

Quickly, we took a taxi to Police Federal (again). We had a bus to catch to Itacare. We asked for the relevant officer before Jamie was taken to an office. Zenchai and I waited. It took more than an hour. Zenchai was getting hungry. I could hear Kobra becoming restless.

Then it was my turn. We were asked all sorts of questions about our visit and stay in Brazil and then told to sign a statement. We also were issued with another fine - the maximum one (over R800 each) - for overstaying our visa.

The officer explained that we would have to pay it when next entering Brazil, but we couldn't return until next January (2012), a year since we last entered the country.

Once finished, we left Police Federal (hopefully for the final time) and walked to the bus station, luckily in time to catch our ride to Itacare, which leaves every hour.

Relieved, we got to Itacare and decided to stay the night before, finally, heading to Boipeba. 

World Travel: The Journey Has Only Just Begun

I GET the impression many people think we are living the idyllic existence. In some ways perhaps we are. On the outside nearly every day I see sunshine, nature, ocean, sand, beaches and river. However, on the inside the dark clouds have been gathering.

The build-up of frustration has been long and slow. What started as a journey of great exploration and adventure with my family has become more of an internal examination, especially since arriving in Piracanga, Brazil in January. 

I've known for a long time that happiness and fulfilment doesn't come from your environment (miserable people will take their misery anywhere, regardless of the surroundings). However, we thought being in a beautiful location would certainly improve our lifestyle. All it's done is remind us and confirm to us that true joy comes only from what you feel on the inside.  

There are many factors I didn't consider when we started travelling and if I did, I didn't consider them thoroughly enough. 

Being on the move with a family is tough. Very tough. Being all together in one place 24/7 is also incredibly demanding. We are now four and not three. That in itself has added to the pressure. The pot has been boiling. We just didn't realise the heat was on. Now we see the steam. 

We knew we needed some help and then, as if she were sent from heaven, met Shiroma, a former Steiner and Freeschool teacher wise beyond her years.

Almost every night for two weeks we talked openly and honestly for hours and examined every detail of our family. Everything, it seemed, was connected, going back to Jamie and my own childhood experiences. 

Shiroma helped us better understand and remind us what's going on in particular with Zenchai and also him in relation to travelling: how making friends and then seeing them leave - or leaving himself - can be heart-breaking; how we, the parents, need to be more patient and give him the security when he needs it; how what the parents feel is also felt by the children; how devoting all/most your time to your child can cause him or her to become over-stimulated and how Zenchai really has had nowhere to call 'home' for almost two years.

Shiroma asked Jamie how she felt and she said 'tired'. I said 'lost'. Then she looked at us and said, "That's what Zenchai is feeling from you." No wonder he has been in turmoil.

Add in the arrival of his sister, too. He's feeling confused and insecure. Zenchai has just wanted to feel safe.

His confidence took a jolt, though, before Kobra arrived, around the time we landed in Argentina late last year. While I've always tried to encourage him to be confident, I realise now that there were times when he simply wasn't ready to take certain steps by himself. 

We moved a lot and finding other kids for Zenchai to play with was difficult. Jamie and I were Zenchai's only security. There were times when we were puzzled by his reluctance to leave our sides and venture to meet other kids. But now it's clearer why.

In Piracanga, Brazil there were plenty of kids for him to play with. But he was getting adjusted to a new environment again. He went to the school, but didn't like it. His behaviour towards other children in Brazil has at times been very challenging. But it was not due to a lack of confidence or language skills. Kids always find a way to communicate and Zenchai now speaks decent Portuguese. 

But because Zenchai has been so used to leaving locations, it's caused him a lot of heartbreak and, consequently, some of his stormy behaviour has been only as a means to protect himself. 

The impact of Kobra's arrival is too detailed to go into here. Suffice to say with everything else going on, Zenchai's struggled to know his place in the new family set-up and he has been fiercely resisting the change. 

And everything has heaped strain on Jamie and myself. Since leaving England in February 2010, we have functioned almost entirely as mother and father and not as Jamie and Claude. That's why I said I felt 'lost'. It's easy to lose yourself with parental responsibilities when it's full-time.

For me, in particular, it's been hard to reconcile. I chose to leave a satisfying, secure and decently-paid job to dedicate time with my family and then discovered I had little, if any, time to myself - to do what I wanted to do, even if only for a few minutes each day. In Piracanga, which is so remote, that feeling really intensified.

Someone recently described to me how Piracanga is like a 'washing machine for the soul' - it spins you around from the inside and cleans you up. I feel like I'm still on the fast wash setting!

Also, I now realise that Zenchai needs a break from us, too - that he has to rediscover his ability to play by himself for long periods (essential for grounding). His insecurity and need for attention has taken him away from that. 

We've accepted it's vital to carve out chunks of time for each parent to have to themselves and to do something they enjoy. It makes for happier people. I'd recommend that as a priority for any family contemplating a journey like we have done. 

We're still working on it, starting with an hour a day, but it doesn't always happen. The alternative, though, is frustrated, angry parents and those emotions are then transferred to the children, creating instability. Not good.

And while I thought Zenchai would adore having us both around all the time, the reality is that he saw me as competition for Jamie's attention - a rival, in fact. Until I stopped work, he had Jamie to himself. Now we are trying to mend that rift.

Yet Shiroma (pictured above) called us the 'most conscious parents she had ever met'. I felt really flattered by that compliment, even if on the inside I didn't/couldn't believe it. 

Jamie and I really do try, though we've made mountain-loads of mistakes along the way, as does every parent. Now is the time to rectify them and change patterns for the future, hard as it is.

Does it mean we will stop travelling? Does it mean this travelling adventure hasn't been worth it? After all, Zenchai needs a place he can call home. 

For us, though, the latter is not about having concrete or wooden structures to live in. It's about internal stability and that could - and should - be our family circle. That family circle, when solid, can go anywhere. 

Our time in Brazil has been deeply introspective - far from what we had anticipated. Although it has been testing, we've had many fantastic moments and met wonderful people. I am pleased I came. Had I not, I possibly wouldn't know what I know today. I wouldn't be making the changes I need to make. 

Maybe we were guided here in order to begin the healing process within our family and there can be nothing more important than that. 

In reality, the journey has only just begun. 

 

Brazil: Visa Regulations

In Brazil you are given a three-month stay as a tourist when you arrive. If you wish to remain for longer you must visit the Federal Police and apply before your visa expires.

We faced a tricky situation, though. Our visa expired on April 24. We couldn't have gone before Kobra's birth because Jamie was heavily pregnant. And we couldn't go immediately after Kobra was born because Jamie was told by our midwife not to walk for 15 days.

We also didn't want to take our 12-day-old daughter on a long journey by car to Ilheus, about two-and-a-half hours away. But we had no choice. Each applicant MUST appear in person.

To make the trip easier, we travelled the day before from Piracanga to Itacare by jeep. It's an extremely bumpy road and the journey was made more difficult by heavy rain flooding the roads.

Nonetheless, we made it and stayed the night in Itacare. Then early the next morning, helped by our friend Sam, who is staying in Piracanga near to us and speaks Portuguese, we made the hour-or-so drive to Ilheus to visit the police.

But it wasn't as straightforward as we had wished or the formality we had been told it would be. We sat in the waiting area for about an hour after presenting our passports and then were told to each pay fines of R24.83 (about £10).

However, instead of then informing us we could extend our visas, the policeman dealing with our case said we had to leave the country - until he noticed Jamie was holding a newborn baby!

He asked Kobra's age and then if we had a birth certificate. We didn't, having not yet registered her. So he said we had eight days in which to pay the fines and reappear with the certificate - or else the fines would start adding up (the maximum is R827.75 (for three months).

There was no flexibility, even when one policeman could see our predicament and requested some leniency be applied.

So we're now getting ready for the same journey again. Poor Kobra did tremendously well on her first excursion and trip by car, even if exposure to the noise and pollution of a city at her age was something we had hoped to avoid for much longer.

Returning to Piracanga, though, we felt relieved to be somewhere so peaceful and secluded, surrounded by nature and all its wonderful sounds and smells.

Abramsfamilyworldtravel tip: make sure you go early if you need to visit the Police Federal in Ilheus. The office closes at 11am.

World Travel: Lessons Learned from Our First Year

We most definitely live and learn travelling the way we do. Mistakes are inevitable, but also invaluable.

That's why every 'bad' experience we've had has effectively been a blessing. It also doesn't harm to learn from what others have been through. Therefore, we thought we'd share with you what information we think has been priceless or helpful from our first 12 months travelling - advice that would most certainly have shortened our learning curve had we known in advance. 

 

Travelling with the sun

Both Claude and I relish the sunshine. So when we mapped out our itinerary to London, we knew that we wanted to follow the sun and be in places during their summers. However, what we did not consider was how our pursuit of warmth would also empty our pockets more quickly.

While it has been fantastic enjoying over a year of summer-like conditions, it has also meant travelling to places during peak season. Had we thought more deeply about travelling with the sun, we could have timed our arrivals into certain cities/areas just before or after the high season.

Something else that did not cross our minds was how travelling with the sun would effect Zenchai's socialisation with other children. By continuously landing in places during summer time, schools have almost always been closed.

When in small villages, like Kukljica in Croatia, this was not so much a problem as potential playmates by the sea were abundant. But in large cities like Buenos Aires, where children weren't roaming freely, this meant lonely playtimes for Zenchai.

Have at least the first night's stay booked

When you arrive in a new location try to have the first night's accommodation pre-booked. Sometimes there's a temptation to take a chance and see what you can find by wondering around - and that's understandable if you're not sure you want to stay. But we've found this rather stressful, especially if you discover the city or town you intend to stay in is fully booked. It's a real pain, particularly if you have children, to go from one hotel/hostel to another, hoping something is available. Going through Europe by car last summer we found ourselves on a few occasions - tired from a long day of driving - cruising down dimly-lit streets in the middle of the night and knocking on doors to find accommodation. Now we check online with tripadvisor and hostelworld and always read reviews, too. It narrows the choice and you discover feedback on whether a place is noisy, a party hostel, has a kitchen, internet etc. 

Challenge of staying with people

On both Claude's and my top ten memories of 2010 was meeting and staying with friends and family. Those moments of union with loved ones have definitely left a huge impression on our hearts.

However, at times those stays didn't always go without a hitch in the sense that we both have felt uncomfortable in instances where our destiny was out of our control. Being reliant on transport, food or basic necessities has at times made us feel powerless, which can create friction for us.

We have learned that we are far more comfortable in other people's spaces if we are able to cater to our basic familial needs and not having to completely pass the buck to those who host us.

Clothing, toys, books etc

With each leg of our trip we have realised our tendency to over-pack, especially clothing, toys for Zenchai and books. This overindulgence created many anxious moments while we waited in queues at the airport to check our luggage.

Would our bags be overweight - again? This is something we are continually refining and with the impending arrival of our newest family member it is also something we need to perfect sooner rather than later.

Suitcases vs Rucksacks

At the moment we are travelling with two suitcases. My monster pink case and Claude's more sensibly-sized case. However, we have encountered many situations where having a rucksack each would have made for smoother travel.

Manage your money smartly

Travellers cheques used to be the only way to carry large amounts of currency when travelling. Not anymore. In Ecuador, travellers cheques were practically useless. Claude had to go from one bank to another to find someone willing to cash them. We haven't used them since. We opted for the FairFX card. It's simple to top up and all you require is an ATM machine to get your cash. FairFX offer you the option of having your money in pounds, dollars or Euros but don't charge for currency conversions or withdrawals (however, banks in certain countries, like Argentina and Uruguay, do impose a fee per transaction - roughly £3, which adds up). It's also worth noting - and checking - before travelling which credit cards certain countries prefer. For instance, Visa is the favoured card in Argentina. And in some countries, like Ecuador, credit card transactions are minimal, so you need access to cash. Do your homework.

Buy fruit and veg locally 

We do our best to purchase fruit and veg from local markets. The produce tends to be fresher, cheaper and local. It also helps keep them in business. In Marrakech, for instance, the difference in price between the markets and supermarket chains was ridiculous. If you're on a tight budget, it is definitely worth considering.

Check your dates!

Twice we turned up in Buenos Aires on days when the city had practically closed down. Once was a national holiday and on another occasion it was the Census. When you need access to shops - particularly for food - you don't want to be caught out. So before travelling or nailing down your dates, it's worth confirming your arrival dates don't coincide with a public holiday. Don't rely on the travel agent to tell you. 

Driving on slower roads

Tolls in France and most of Europe are really expensive. We couldn't believe last summer how much the cost of driving in Europe had escalated. We came off the toll roads in France, Italy, Slovenia and Croatia several times and, guess what? The experience was much more pleasurable: you get to see the real countryside and villages. You see so much more than when bombing up and down motorways, which tend to always look the same. Though it was much slower, going on the A roads is a lot cheaper. If you're not in a hurry, we'd certainly recommend it. 

Have a sick bag when on public transport

We had several incidents - in coaches, cars, taxis, ferries, aeroplanes - when a sick bag was required and we didn't have anything at the ready. In Ecuador, the taxis and public buses were awful in terms of smooth riding. Zenchai sometimes would throw up within minutes! Some plane rides are rough also. It's just better to be equipped and have plastic/paper bags easily at hand. You won't be sorry. 

Always check pots and pans when renting

It's easy when renting an apartment to look the place over, sign on the dotted line and part with your cash without looking in the cupboards to see what they have provided. Check the details. Make sure the accommodation offers what is being advertised. We got caught out in Cuenca last year when the kitchen didn't even have any gas for the burner! We also had to beg for dishes, chopping boards, knives etc - items you'd think would be standard. Don't assume kitchens are fully equipped. 

Have a camera on hand and spare battery charged

Do you ever find that when you leave behind your camera a photo opportunity presents itself? We do. So we decided that the golden rule is always take the camera - just in case. Better to have it and not use it than to have a once-in-a-lifetime moment pass you by. Charge your spare battery also. We do it almost immediately whenever one of our batteries dies. Having photographic memories is priceless. Be organised. 

Divide and conquer 

Doing everything as a family can be tiring and absorbing. Sometimes we, as parents, need a break - from partners, being parents and children. We learned to split the responsibilities. We still do things together, but, more now than before, also take turns in looking after Zenchai and going on excursions with him. It's made a significant difference and can really help restore some sanity and reduce the demands of being a close-knit family. 

Carry snacks and a pen

With young children - and pregnant women - you can't go far without having snacks. If, like us, your dietary requirements mean you prefer not to rely on junk food and sweets etc, it's essential to do some shopping in advance and get stocked up in case of any emergencies. Kids can quickly become a handful if they get over-hungry, so we try always to remember to pack fruit and snacks or make the effort to find out where there is a food source nearby. A pen can also come in handy. You never know when you may have to jot down some important information. So keep one tucked away in your bag or pocket at all times. 

Do your research when eating out

When eating out, we make sure we've done some investigating first. We use the Happy Cow and Vegan backpackers websites a lot. They are excellent for details on where to eat vegan around the world. We also have our travel guidebooks, that make recommendations. However, don't always trust the information. We've gone searching for restaurants with great reviews on Happy Cow only to find they no longer exist. That's why it's always useful to have a back-up plan. Similarly, guide books are usually a year or so out of date by the time you buy it. Prices can change. We learned the hard way that it pays to check the prices before sitting down. Usually, restaurants will display their menu and prices in the window. 

Buy watermelons whole

There's a good way to check if a watermelon is ripe: put it to your ear and tap it. If it sounds hollow then it's ready for consumption. But sometimes shops and small grocers will sell large watermelons in halves or slices. This can result in a melon sitting out for a while. We had one case in San Marcos Sierras, Argentina, where it was hot and we bought a half watermelon. By the time we sat down to eat it (about 30 minutes after the purchase), it had virtually turned to alcohol. The best way to avoid this is buy them whole or watch them cut a whole one open if you want slices. 

 

Piracanga: Two Weeks In

We have been here only a fortnight, yet have settled in quite quickly. Piracanga has given us what we felt was missing from life in a big city like Buenos Aires: intimacy; clean air; an outdoor life; a sense of community; greater sociability; child interaction for Zenchai; more freedom.

It’s not perfect – and what place is? – but it feels more like home each day. Such a life requires an adjustment, especially when you have arrived from some place busy. You can feel lost in the early days.

Our Romanian friends who live with us call it ‘Piracanga Syndrome’. I didn’t have much difficulty adjusting. After a year travelling, I find it much easier to settle. I enjoy silence and introspectiveness. Piracanga, being so tranquil, has offered me that.

There is nature everywhere. It looks like the Garden of Eden. There is no rush to life. We try not to live by the clock, but, ironically, had to buy one – to ensure Zenchai gets to school on time and we make it for lunch at 1pm and dinner at 7pm.

I’d prefer not eat by the clock, though. Some days I don’t even feel hungry when food is served. But I eat because, for now, the restaurant is our only food source. Next month, when we move into a beautiful house to ourselves, we shall cater more for ourselves.

However, that will mean more frequent trips to Itacare. That’s not a problem, though. The mosquitos are a nuisance, however – particularly for Zenchai. He gets nibbled on every night. They don’t seem to like me as much. And Zenchai can’t stop scratching. That’s the worst part.

Mosquitos are something you have to get used to. This is their land. They were here first. We are the invaders. The other species don’t trouble me at all – even the family of bats that flap around in our bedroom sometimes in the early morning. Actually, I can only marvel at how brilliant they are at flying at great speed in darkness.

Zenchai isn’t scared either. He’s really comfortable outside playing in the sand, bushes and under the trees. This is a world of great discovery for him. And he’s delighted with himself for learning to dive underwater, even if he can’t yet swim.

The river, especially at low tide, is the perfect place to learn. He has found a new friend, a five-year-old girl from Canada. She came at the perfect time, because his other buddy, a young boy from Greece, returned home.

Stella, the girl, is here only for another week. Zenchai will have to grow used to people coming and going. It’s the same for Jamie and I. We have met some fabulous people. There are groups arriving all the time.

At present there is a 65-strong contingent of Moksha yoga teacher trainers. But learning to accept that nothing stays the same is a great lesson in life. If you resist, everything feels much harder. Here, we try to go with the flow, which isn’t the same as conformity, but is about sailing smoothly through what each day brings you, be it ‘good’ or ‘bad’.

I’ve found it easier to devote time and attention to Zenchai. It’s an important time for him, what with starting school and a sibling on the way. He seems more contented than in the city, where he was being dragged around. Here he often goes out and plays by himself and we don’t see him for a long time. He even ventures to school by himself.

We don’t have any reason to worry for his safety. It’s a comforting feeling. That doesn’t mean Piracanga – long-term – is the place for us, but that is the type of environment we have been searching for in order to raise our children. I think every parent would like that.

Talking of ‘our children’, everyone seems to think we are having a girl. The track record in Piracanga suggests that will be the case. Of the eight children born here, the first was a boy and the last seven all female.

Jamie is doing well and was growing so large several people thought she was carrying twins. She is definitely larger at this stage second time around. Three other women are due to birth around the same time in mid-April (two of whom have confirmation they are indeed having girls, too).

The midwife is going to have her hands full!

Piracanga: A New Way Of Living

Finally, we made it to what will be our home for the next five months, an eco village in Piracanga, about an hour’s drive from Itacare.

Getting to Itacare from Salvador required us catching a ferry. You take it in Salvador across the water to Bom Despacho (about an hour).

We aimed for the 7am ferry, which meant waking up at 5.30am and getting a taxi at 6.30am (about 10 Reais). Although we waited in line with about 20 minutes to spare, the queue, for whatever reason, simply didn’t move.

People grew quite irate and, like us, missed the ferry. But eventually we got our tickets for the next one (they depart every hour) and then joined another mass of people, who waited impatiently for the gates to open into the boarding area.

Frankly, I’ve never seen anything quite so disorganised. And with a young child, pregnant wife and two large suitcases (not forgetting the warm and humid conditions), it wasn’t easy being herded - marching through with people shoving from behind and the side, desperately trying to find a way to jump the line.

In the boarding area it was much the same. Everyone waited for the signal to embark and then, without much consideration for others, made a desperate dash, oblivious it seemed to the prospect of leaving anyone crushed.

All I could think of was how potentially dangerous this would be during an emergency or evacuation. On the boat every seat was taken within seconds.

People boarded with all sorts of things, too, ranging from fish to fruit and vegetables to fridges!

Once safely in Bom Despacho, we headed off the boat and up a steep ramp, eventually to an area where you can catch a bus. We didn’t book anything in advance. The website for Cidade Sol didn’t offer this facility and we were advised there are always places available.

Since we missed our intended coach (at 8am), we had to wait for the next one – at 11am!

We were all feeling a little hungry. But if, like us, you are a little health-conscious or vegan, there isn’t a great deal to eat on site. I walked with Zenchai about half a mile along the main road towards town.

There’s a huge supermarket (with ATM machines) and we found some shops selling fresh coconut water and juices. We were back well in time for our bus (Cidade Sol buses head to Itacare at 8am, 11am, 12pm and 2.30pm).

From Bom Despacho it’s a five-hour journey, stopping approximately 12 times until you reach Itacare. The coaches are reasonably comfortable. Tickets cost about R30 (£11) per person.

In Itacare, we were collected by a Piracanga Land Rover, which drove us over quite rough terrain to the home at which we are renting a room for the next month.

Piracanga is undeniably postcard beautiful. It is surrounded by coconut trees, very lush and green and there’s the constant hum of the ocean waves. There’s a river nearby, which you must cross – or walk around – to reach the miles of deserted sandy beach.

But Piracanga is also remote, which has positives and negatives. We had to shop for fruits and vegetables in Itacare before arriving, but our supplies lasted only a few days.

The options are to eat at the Piracanga buffet-style vegetarian restaurant (excellent food) or find your own and prepare it. To get to Itacare (the nearest town) on foot takes over an hour along the beach.

Here in Piracanga, we will have to live more wisely, especially when it comes to conserving energy. We handwash our clothes and try to exist as one with nature. Life is simpler. We go to bed early and rise with the sun.

Our home has solar panels and is the only one in the village with a fridge – what a luxury!

We must charge computers and electrical devices in the morning and during the day, when (and only if) there is sunshine. There are no televisions. In the afternoon and evening the use of electricity is more limited. Internet is unpredictable and at times slow.

There are no lampposts or road signs. Look into the sky at night and you see thousands of stars. We find our way around by using our senses. At first the place seems like a maze. At night, when it is pitch black, you may need a torch. But we have managed without one, feeling our way back to our home.

Piracanga is safe. There are no security issues. Houses here are mostly open. No one has to lock his or her door or guard their belongings.

There are all sorts of interesting creatures, too: spiders, long-tailed mice, monkeys, lizards, birds, scorpions, snakes, bats and, of course, mosquitos. You quickly learn to get along with them.

We are all still adapting. Jamie, being pregnant, was a bit anxious about where the food was going to come from. We opted to eat lunch and dinner at the restaurant. We prepare our own breakfast.

Zenchai’s been hard at work, using a wheelbarrow and logs to build a pathway by our house. Our surroundings are one great playground for him. He has also found a little boy his age to play with. There is a school and lots of other children, varying in age.

I’m taking it slowly, absorbing the beauty and adjusting to the pace after coming from a city. We are listening to other residents about how best to live here. People come to Piracanga from all over the world – Brazil, of course, Portugal, Uruguay, England, Switzerland, Holland, Israel, Canada, America, Greece, France, Argentina, Ecuador and Romania to name just a few countries.

I have enjoyed the first few mornings running barefoot along the beach and then plunging into the powerful waves in the ocean. In the afternoon I play beach volleyball. Jamie and Zenchai like to swim in the river, which is bath tub warm.

It’s so different from being in the city. As Jamie said to me just recently, Salvador seems like such a long time ago, even though we only just left there.

It has more to do with the contrast in lifestyle than the illusion of time.

AbramsFamilyWorld travel tip: While everyone told us catching the ferry from Salvador to Bom Despacho was straightforward, be warned it is not. And I’d recommend travelling on a weekday rather than a Saturday, as we did, just to avoid the stampede. Alternatively, you can catch a plane, which is more expensive, from Salvador to Ilheus (about 50km from Itacare).

Brazil: Planes, Pains And Automobiles

SOME journeys go smoothly and some do not. If you travel frequently, as we do, there are going to be occasions when you have disasters.

We had such a trip getting to Salvador in Brazil from Buenos Aires (via Sao Paulo). But, in truth, it could have been even worse.

A night without sleep followed by a day of flight delays can be difficult enough to cope with, but is made even harder when travelling with children.

All things considered, though, we – and, in particular, Zenchai – handled it amazingly well. We’d started at 6am, when rising from our hostel in Buenos Aires, and finished at 12.45am (11.45pm Argentina time), when our heads finally hit the pillows at our accommodation in Salvador.

Our plan to check out of our apartment in Buenos Aires to spend our final night in a hotel (which ended up being more like a hostel) backfired. We figured because of our early start, it would be better to be in a hostel, where they could call us a taxi for the airport (about 35 mins from Palermo) and wake us up.

The latter wasn’t required, though. Our fellow residents made enough noise drinking and talking loudly all night – so loudly they might as well have been in our room!

Although I booked a wake-up call, it never came. So, luckily, we were already up. None of us got much sleep. We’d gone to bed late that evening – after going out for dinner and then packing – and Zenchai took some time falling asleep. He required some waking up, too.

Then, after getting ready in 45 minutes, we headed for the airport in a private car (which turned out, at 125 pesos, to be about the same as a taxi). The driver dropped us off and, two hours before our departure time, we headed inside to check-in for our TAM flight, scheduled for 9.40am.

But when we were asked by a TAM official for details of our flight, she dropped the bombshell – “You’re flight is taking off now. The flight was changed two months ago. Were you not informed?”

To that I replied a big “NO” and calmly asked what our options were. It was 8am and they told us that we would go on a waiting list for the next flight, at 1pm, but there were no guarantees. “Come back at 12pm,” said the supervisor.

We hung around the airport, depleting our food supplies for the long trip, and headed back at noon faced with the prospect of camping out for the 2.45pm flight or, God forbid, the 5pm.

Fortunately for us, TAM put us on the 1pm. But we didn’t have much time after checking in our luggage. We had to be escorted through security and passport control to make it. The flight went without hiccups - until we got near Sao Paulo and the pilot made an announcement in Portugese. I could hear the groans. Then he updated the situation in English.

“The airport in Sao Paulo has been closed due to a severe thunder storms. There are no planes landing or taking off. We shall be in a holding pattern until cleared for landing.”

Although we had time to spare between connections, we still had immigration to clear. We waited around 45 minutes in the sky before touching Brazilian soil.

After getting our passports stamped (no questions asked), collecting our luggage and re-checking it, we grabbed a snack before heading to our gate for the Salvador flight. It was hot and cramped in the waiting area and our situation wasn’t helped when our plane was delayed an hour. This meant we’d arrive in Salvador at 10.45pm (hopefully our ride, organised by the hostel in Salvador, would still be there – we’d sent several emails updating them on our situation).

Zenchai fell asleep towards the end of the plane journey. He was so tired, he just turned to me and said, “I’m going to sleep.” Seldom does he ever say that.

We carried him off the plane, along with our bags. He snoozed until we had collected our cases and were ready to find our ride.

There he (the driver) was, in the crowd of people waiting, holding a sign with my name on it. Moses (his name) had been there since 5pm! Poor guy.

He seemed shocked, having been told to look out for an Englishman. "You look like one of us," was the gist of what he said.

Traffic in Salvador had died down by that time of night. Zenchai nodded off again in the cab and Moses drove us the 30km or so from the airport to the Historic Centre, where we were staying.

By then we were all ready to hit the sack, even if the streets were still lined with party revellers. Zenchai went out like a light. So did Jamie and I.

Our Brazilian adventure had already begun!

Argentina: Giant Land Of Friendliness, Beauty And Yerba Mate

We knew Argentina was large, but didn’t realise just how until we tried to plan getting around it.

Although it doesn’t seem so, Argentina (population 40 million) is the same size as India in terms of square miles. It’s the eighth largest country in the world.

Our intention was to see it all in three months. Having now had some experience of the country, that idea sounds so ridiculous. We only really scratched the surface. To do it properly, I’d like to go back, hire a campervan and drive around for 12 months. But the visitor’s visa is only valid for three months per entry, so you’d have to leave the country at various stages to make it possible.

We missed out on Patagonia (where there is also a Lake District), Mendoza (the wine country – although we’re not drinkers), Salta, the Los Glacieres National Park, Bariloche and Calafate, the multi-coloured mountains of Jujuy, not to mention the Valdes Peninsula and the wildlife sanctuary in Puerto Madryn.

Although getting around is relatively easy, it is quite expensive, at least when compared with other South American countries like, say, Ecuador. We took an overnight coach to Cordoba (the second largest city) from Buenos Aires, which was fabulous. Booking was easy. You can do it online with Omnilineas or, as we did, go direct to their offices (Maipu 459 on the 10th floor).

I visited alone the amazing Iguazu Falls, which was a 16-hour coach journey from the capital, but a truly spectacular sight. 

Together, though, we explored a few areas around Cordoba, like the hippy town of San Marcos Sierras, where we felt reunited with nature, and Capilla Del Monte, where we spent Christmas and New Year.

But we soon decided that constantly hopping from one place to another while Jamie was pregnant and Zenchai only four-and-a-half wasn’t what we had in mind. So we picked a few locations and pitched our tent, so to speak, for longer periods. That way we felt more settled and like we were living rather than visiting or touring.

Buenos Aires was enjoyable, a real walking city and easy to navigate. Each block is about 100m and the roads run on a grid system, much like in New York. But breathing in the pollution and cigarette smoke (Argentines are big smokers) almost wherever we walked where it was reasonably populated had us eager to move on in the end.

It’s sophisticated by South American standards, very European in its atmosphere and culture. The people are very helpful and friendly. Argentines, I noticed, love public displays of affection. They are big on tattoos also.

Buenos Aires is a city with tree-lined streets, cobbled roads, pastry and grocery shops on practically every corner, graffiti on walls and abandoned classic cars scattered everywhere (much to Zenchai’s delight). It’s home to the tango and yerba mate.

Cordoba, where we went after Capilla Del Monte, is much smaller than the capital: compact by comparison and cleaner (hardly any dog mess on the pavements). There is less to do and see, however. But it’s a shopper’s paradise (I can’t recall being in a place where there are so many shops – and all selling, more or less, the same items).

We rented apartments where we could in Argentina. This was the cheapest option, but only for stays of two weeks or more. We tried first online, but the process was tediously slow. With the bulk of rent required up front (in cash), be prepared to get your money out. And be warned that the banks in Argentina charge for ATM withdrawals and place a limit on the amount you can withdraw. (Talking of banks, be sure not to leave your need for cash until a Sunday afternoon as most banks are dry by then. If you’re desperate, go to an ATM inside a large petrol station).

After getting tired of waiting for rental agencies to reply to emails when we first arrived in Buenos Aires, we tried knocking on doors and this produced almost instant results. We’d recommend you find the area you like and then approach real estate people in the vicinity.

On our return to Buenos Aires in January, we successfully secured an apartment online with www.4rentargentina.com. Again, we had to pay in cash.

Palermo was our favourite neighbourhood. Home to the zoo, Botanical and Japanese Gardens, Palermo is large. If you want to be near the park – or are a jogger* - make sure you search in that area or opt for Recoleta, where there is also the extraordinary Cementerio de la Recoleta. San Telmo, an old district, also has lots to offer and is probably the place to be for museums, antique and old book shops, jewelry and bars. There is also a big food market.

When we were on the road or having short stays, we opted for hostels. Some are cheap and others not so (we happened to get to dusty San Marcos Sierras and Capilla del Monte during peak season). Buenos Aires has a wide selection, but do your homework and read reviews (trip advisor is a good starting point) before booking.

We preferred the hostels we found in Cordoba to Buenos Aires. Hostels are fine if you want a cheap space and to prepare your own meals, but it’s sometimes not ideal for families with small children (although in Cordoba it wasn’t a problem – try Babilonia Hostel and Pewman Che Hostel).

Many hostels can be noisy and sharing bathrooms has its drawbacks when you have a son who’s desperate for the toilet and a pregnant wife. Also, in Argentina the culture is to stay out late – even for kids – so taking an early night often comes at a price.

The positive side to hostels (for families) is that they offer a chance to meet other travellers. And for Zenchai this sometimes included children, which was nice.

Zenchai handled the travelling side well. We looked into internal air flights for ease of getting around, but it was too expensive, particularly for non-residents. As for food, buying from a grocer, as we tended to, was affordable. I could fill a large bag with fruit and veg, to last us several days, for about £15. The same would cost at least double back in England. One evening in Cordoba, I even bought enough veg to make dinner for three and it came to the equivalent of £1.

The variety is better for fruits than vegetables. It didn’t compare in Buenos Aires and Cordoba with what we could get our hands on in Capilla Del Monte - a small town which you can easily cover on foot in a few hours, probably less if you are doing just the centre. Getting there, we took a bus from Cordoba. It takes a lot longer (about four hours) if you are on a bus that stops in every town. The direct one (Sarmiento is the operator) takes around an hour.

Long-distance train networks aren’t reliable in Argentina, but the subway (Subte) in Buenos Aires is excellent and very cheap at 1.10 pesos (20p) per person. It runs from 6.30am-11pm and trains come frequently, even on weekends. To ride the buses is the same cost.

Clothes and shoes etc are expensive, so we didn’t do any shopping of that kind (especially as we’re always trying to travel lightly), except for Zenchai’s Argentina top which I found at a fair price in one of the many shops in the capital city selling football kits.

Eating out could be costly also. It depended where you went. We had some cheap and good meals for under £10 and others, though not so frequently, that came to nearly £30. The food is decent, though unexceptional, at least by vegan standards (I can’t comment on steak houses etc).

In Cordoba, we found several lunchtime vegetarian options which were fine. Eating out at night was more difficult, because of Zenchai’s sleeping times and how Argentine’s prefer to feast late. But, to be honest, we generally found dining out rather disappointing wherever we went last year, regardless of the country. When we look back on our favourite meals, it’s nearly always been those home-cooked and/or with family. You can’t beat it!

Overall, though, we really enjoyed our Argentina experience. It surpassed all expectations. We had a memorable time. I felt really at home and safe in the places we visited and with the people. When travelling with a family, that’s definitely an important factor to consider.

AbramsFamilyWorldTravel Tip: A Note for runners - I wouldn't recommend jogging or running through the city, particularly after 8am. There's too much traffic and pollution and too many traffic lights, not to mention the dog poop on the pavements. Head for the parks. One of the best is Parque 3 de Febrero, also known as The House of Sports. There you can run around 1km path that circles a boating lake. It's safe and you'll be joined by cyclists, roller-bladers and walkers. You can run on the tarmac, grass or gravel. 

World Travel: Items We're Glad We Didn't Leave Behind

Packing for a long-term trip requires careful planning. The inclination is always to take much more than you really need. But here are the items, in no particular order, we found invaluable on our travels last year.

Macbook Pro

Although Jamie is pregnant, this is her little baby. She treats it with love and affection. It's superb for anything creative, has bags of memory and starts quickly. Being slim and sleek in design makes it easier to carry than most large laptops, too. It's also more sturdily built. Macbook Pros aren't cheap, but they are worth it. We use ours not just for writing blogs, researching online and managing our travels, but also to stay in touch via Skype, Facebook and email. 

  Scottevest 

The ultimate travel jacket, especially when going through airports. There are dozens of pockets (22, in fact) of various sizes. I can carry his camera, books, money, passport, items of clothing, snacks etc comfortably. For those who have phones and ipods or even ipads, you could easily add these as well. The sleeves detach for warm weather and is good to wear in light showers. Going through airport security, I just remove the jacket instead of having to place all his items into trays. It's comfortable and cool enough to wear on the plane as well, meaning you have easy access to all your gadgets. 

Keen Men's Newport H2 waterproof sandal 

 I have had these for several years. I bought them in the US. For the last year I wore them almost every day and everywhere. I've hiked and run in them, gone through salt water seas and oceans, and yet they are nearly as good today as they were when purchased. The Keens don't smell either like same sandals tend to with prolonged use. 

Fitmag Exercise Bands 

If you love to exercise or just want to stay in shape, there are plenty of ways to do so, even when travelling. I carry my resistance bands on every trip (easy to pack) and use them almost daily. Mine were made by fitmag (the pro+ range costing around £20), but there are plenty of brands on the market. The point is, if you are used to weights and need an alternative, these chords or bands are the answer. They offer a multitude of different exercises and travel well (a bag is supplied). My only gripe is that one of the bands snapped when using it. But I've still managed fine with the others. 

Memory Stick

As we have two laptops, this is an essential gadget for sending copy from one machine to another, especially if you are in a location where you can't get an internet connection. Sticks with a greater memory are invaluable also for saving and backing up photos. 

Berkey Water filter bottle 

Although we have mixed feelings about the Travel Berkey water filter system we purchased, the Sport Berkey bottle (price around $28 US) has been an excellent purchase. We take it everywhere with us and, because you can fill it with water from any running water source, the savings on buying water has been considerable. The bottle is a constant travel companion, although it does need regular cleaning and the filter requires changing after a while. 

Platypus Sunscreen shirt for Zenchai

This was a birthday gift for Zenchai several years ago. Made in Australia and from nylon and lycra, it protects him from the sun and was bought specifically for that reason. This means you don't have to plaster him in sunscreen all over. The top is comfortable and durable, too.

Garmin Sat Nav 

We purchased a Garmin Nuvi 1490 GPS system last (British) summer, shortly before leaving for Europe by road on our way to Croatia. I wasn't sold on the idea at first. I'm an avid map-reader, but at the end of the trip I admitted it was a God-send. In some countries road signs are impossible to read. The Garmin eliminated a lot of stress. We updated to include US maps for when we went to Florida last September and October and I used it extensively. Our model gave the speed, notified us of speed limits and speed cameras etc. The only hiccup we had was when driving to London from Croatia and going through Italy, where the Garmin seemed to lose track of where it was. In some locations, especially when driving up or down mountains, the Garmin can't find a signal. Overall, it was invaluable. 

Ridesafer Children's Travel Vest

We bought this item to save us carrying around the world a child's car seat. We put it on Zenchai and buckle him in to the car seat belts. It provides good comfort and is easily transportable. In countries where using seat belts isn't considered essential (like Morocco and South America), the travel vest is really handy. There are down sides: it can get hot to wear in humid climates and can be a pain to buckle and unbuckle when on short and frequent-stop journeys; sometimes Zenchai, when restless, would mess with the buckles (which is a worry) and, without the elevation of a car seat, he'd struggle to see out of the windows clearly. But for the sake of your child's safety, those are inconveniences worth tolerating. 

Floats for Zenchai

A cheap buy in Kukljica, Croatia (about £2), but very useful. Some more expensive types are difficult to get on. Ours are easily inflated in seconds and slip on. They kept Zenchai afloat in pools and rough seas. 

Norelco Philips electric razor

The cheapest shaving option is probably disposable wet blades that can be bought from chemists or supermarkets. But my face is sensitive to these. He uses the Norelco, which we got for around £40. It gives a close shave, is easy to clean (can be washed under a hot tap) and charges quickly, so can be used without the chord plugged in. It's durable also. Mine has survived several drops and fallen to pieces. But it worked perfectly when reassembled. 

Red Marmot hooded rain jacket

We bought this all-season jacket in New York for Jamie a few years ago prior to a trip to Costa Rica. It's proved useful ever since for wherever we have travelled. It's lightweight, easy to pack, waterproof, breathable and comfortable. 

Olympus Stylus 400 

You can't go on a long journey like this without a camera. Although our silver Olympus is a seven-year-old digital point-and-shoot purchased on ebay, it's withstood knocks and drops and still taken some impressive photos. We're looking for a new model, because the Olympus, perhaps with old age, isn't performing quite as well with indoor pictures as it used to. But for durability it's stood the test of time and it's a nice size for carrying around and remaining discreet. We've had it on beaches, by rivers, up mountains and in hot, cold and humid climates without a thing going wrong. 

Compression bags

These can either be vacuum-sealed or done manually, by pressing all the air out with hands and knees. What then happens is that all the air is sucked out, leaving the compression bag half as large as it was originally. It's helped us to fit all our clothes and (beach) towels into our cases, leaving space for all our other items. They are easy to pack and unpack and you'll be astonished how much space it can save.